Green Cheek attacking me!

tonycgi

Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2022
Messages
22
Reaction score
74
Parrots
cockatiel
My bird is a little more than 2 years old. She was parent raised and has always been nippy, but she has started to attack me, with serious bites.
The vet, called her a wild bird, had clipped her wings a little to slow her down, but she has molted and that may be a factor. She is so fast that the only way I could handle her is by covering with something, and trying to get her in the cage. I probably could have reacted better, trying to fend her off, but I don't like having my face attacked. I wish I had done better. I have numerous bites from the last few days, especially my ear. The interaction has definitely made her more hostile, and me wary of her. She will cuddle up to my chin and I will scratch her for a while, and at some point when she goes on my shoulder, she will suddenly attack my ear. After several bites it is pretty painful. My doctor wanted to put me on blood thinners, good thing I refused.

Tomorrow I will get her wings clipped so I can at least handle her, I'm not sure where we go from here. If anyone can offer suggestions it would be appreciated.
 
In a word; shunning. WHen properly done, it is the most effective way to address behavioral biting. This instant change jeykl/hyde type is likely just hormone driven. Those you don't shun for. The bird's got little control over itself during puberty and the first few mating seasons. And make sure you get fluent in your conures body language. Its not likely to be as obvious as an Amazons, but its there.
 
If your Dr wants you to take "blood thinners" they have a good medical reason for it that you should not ignore in fear of your parrot. These drugs are not going to cause you to bleed too much out of a parrot bite. A wing trim is the thing to do to prevent facial attacks.
 
A blood thinner is not going to cause you to bleed out due to a parrot bite! I take them and Salty nails me all the time.
 
Thanks for the advice, yes I started shunning her as soon as I got control. The question is how long should I do it. I've tried a couple of hours I'm not sure what is the most effective. I thought she was a little to young for changes. She has always been rough, and I've tried to teach her to be more gentle.
btw, The blood thinner remark was a joke!
 
Shunning works like this, below. Shunning for long periods is totally ineffective. Read on..

Biting, whether intentional or not, just over preening your skin or actually taking chunks of meat out - all are PAINFULL! In the wild that sort of behavior is not tolerated by the flock. They ostracize flock members who continue to act like that. We call it 'Shunning'. This WILL work, but needs to be done correctly to get the message across and it needs to be done IMMEDIATELY so the parrot can associate the bite with the shunning action. And it needs to happen every time and with anyone involved with the parrot.

When the bite or over preening occurs:

  • Say in a forceful but not shouting voice "No Bite" or other endearments.
  • Immediately place the parrot on a nearby, handy chairback. NOT the cage (that would only teach the parrot to bite when he wants to go back to his cage).
  • Turn your back to him and ignore him for 1 minute. No peeking, no talking about or too him, NADA. NO eye contact. No less or the message is lost, no more or the bird will not associate the action with the bite.
  • After a minute you can try to re-establish contact.
Rinse, repeat as needed. Most parrots get the message after a few times, some may need more. Also very important - make sure the bite is not your fault. Annoying your parrot, asking him to step up when he is otherwise preoccupied with eating or playing, bothering him during known moody times like mating season, or ignoring the warnings and body language of your parrot - these are bites that you deserve! Learn, and be a better parront !!
 
I know that you know what you're talking about. I hope they follow your advice to the letter for all the reasons you state. Parrots are social creatures and must learn acceptable behaviors from their flock, feathered or otherwise.
 
Thanks for clarification on the shunning, wrench, I was not doing it correctly. I'll do better.
I tried to get her in the carrier for a trimming, but I couldn't get a hold of her. She is so fast! I chased her around trying to get a towel over her, but gave up as she was panting, and I didn't want to make thinks worst. She was on my shoulder for a while and had some treats , and put her in the room, where she is hanging out in my Cockatiel's cage, which is her preference. She has her own cage, which I put her in to sleep, but she has never liked it. She must be pretty upset with me , she usually is like glue. I have to figure a low stress way to get her in the carrier.
 
if they will step up I will have them step up and then step down to a table and if I have help will gently put my hand over them then have the helper drape the towel over them. They are much calmer this way. First time I did this at the vet they were shocked at the ease.
Redneck taught the vet something LOL
 
In case you want to do it yourself, I trim my birds wings myself. I have a method that doesn't require stretching their wings out. I put a towel or hand over the bird's front end (head and upper body from above) and take a pair of scissors and cut off only the tips of their flight feathers. For a budgie that's only less than an inch of feathers. For a green cheek I would cut off about 1.5 to two inches from the tips because they have longer wings. This trim is very conservative and doesn't prevent flying but slows them down. If I need to do more I just repeat cutting a bit more off.
 
Thanks to all of you! :)
She only steps up when she wants to, unfortunately, she is my only helper. :) She's afraid, or don't like strangers.

I don't trust clipping her myself, the Vet and assistant had their hands full with her. Too bad you aren't local! :)
I was reading some other posts, and one from wrench13, about hormones, was right on. The last few days, she's been rubbing herself on my hand, and ripping up my paper towels. I'll have to learn more about dealing with this behavior.

She has chilled out some, and came on my shoulder for a head rubbing. I'll wait a day or two before trying to get her in the carrier.
 
I stick-trained my brats. It helps prevent nasty hand bites, and they get super excited when I pull out their perch for handling. Means PLAY TIME! LOL!
 
That's great! My bird will step up to a had held perch, better than my hand. I have to use it to put her in her cage at night, and she still makes sure she gives it some good bites. I
 
I'm using one that's at least 2 ft, so my fingers don't usually get bit, though the stick gets it. I think she would rather share the cockatiel's cage, and doesn't like to go in hers. The Cockatiel tolerates her, but if she gets to close, he's ready to bite. I'm thankful that she isn't hostile to him.
 
On Hormones (or Horror-mones)

Parrots go thru puberty, just like humans do, because their internal metabolism tells the body –“Hey time to start thinking of babies”. When that happens, their little bodies get flooded for the first time with hormones. The when is only estimated, puberty can occur from 6 months or so for small parrots like budgies, cockatiels and parrotlets, with the larger parrots taking longer, progressively. Macaws and cockatoos, it could be a year or more before it starts. Puberty (and successive mating seasons) is not a precisely timed event. Depending on the individual parrot, it might occur earlier or later then the norm for that species, and other factors come into play on when it starts.

Like human children (and our parrots are so close in temperament to children), puberty can bring on all sorts of behavioral changes, which the parrot has absolutely no control over. One minute they are their normal selves and all of a sudden, BAM, they bite you, and the next second they are back to their normal selves. Mood swings like this are so common that for inexperienced parrot owners, this is the time when parrots are most often given up or surrendered. They can do a 180 degree turn and formerly the person who was THE person is now like yesterday’s news and the parrot might fixate on another member of the family (and it might not be one who actually likes parrots!). This does not happen every time, but it does happen, and the former favorite person needs to wheedle and scheme to get back into the parrots inner circle.

Some other behavior you might encounter:

  • Trying to mate with objects like toys or food bowls, even your hand. Butt rubbing is what this looks like.
  • Regurgitation and trying to feed inanimate objects (or you ! )
  • Shredding paper, bedding, or any material that can be made into nest like stuff
  • Seeking dark hidey places
  • Being abnormally loud and making new clucking noises or others
Puberty can last anywhere from a few months to a year or so in larger parrots, again depending on species and the individual parrot. The 2 things to take away on this is that it will come to an end eventually and the other is to try and not let unwanted behavior become normal or habitual.

And now we come to mating season. Most parrots go through an annual mating season. Species like Eclectus parrots and a few other rare ones can have mating season at any time the environment produces mating triggers. For the rest, its once a year. Mating season is triggered by some things we can control and others that we cannot. The behavioral result of mating season is very similar to the ones displayed in puberty, with the exception of switching allegiances to a new person, which is rare. Uncontrollable rapid mood swings are pretty common and can vary with the intensity of the hormone release. Some years mating season can be pretty mild, and some are just killer for the poor parrot, as the drive to mate is frustrated (unless you are a breeder). The diurnal cycle of daylight to night time is one of the stronger triggers. Some folks keep their parrots on a day/night cycle that mirrors this, while others keep a 12hr day/night cycle. Either one has its pros and cons and we won’t get into that here.

Some things you can do to reduce (but never 100% eliminate) the effects of mating season are:

  • Remove any shreddy type materials and limit access to them when the parrot is out of the cage
  • Prevent access to dark hidey holes
  • No touching the parrot anywhere except for the head and neck. This is a biggie as this can be interpreted as mating behavior by the parrot.
  • Limit or remove sugar bearing foods, like fruits and high fructose foods like corn, any pasta, etc
  • Lots of exercise – a tired parrot is less likely to indulge in mating behavior
Always keep in mind that the parrot has no control of itself during these periods! A bite received during them is 100% different than a bite you might get because the bird is angry with you. You should not use “shunning” or other methods to modify the behavior, because they have no more idea of why they bit you then you do. But, same as a normal bite, you should try to avoid being in a situation where the bite COULD occur. Cuddling with your parrot, giving/getting kisses or letting them near the face during mating season is likely not a good idea! Along these lines, during mating season, try to not let behavior like biting, humping or other outward signs become habitual.

Finally – always, always remember – “THIS TOO SHALL PASS”. Your loving friend is still in there and will be back!
 
Anyone who has had a human child or was one at one time can see how puberty can turn your "baby" into an obnoxious brat seemingly overnight. They snap at you and roll their eyes. You can't do anything right. They hide in their rooms, hate your cooking, don't want to be seen with you in public, become self conscious of their bodies, and their smooth clear skin suddenly has acne! They become obsessed with their peers, and get crazy "crushes" on some of them. What happened to your darling child who thought the sun rose and set on you? Hormones. Puberty sucks. Your poor baby parrot is going through the same thing, so hang in there!
 

Most Reactions

Latest posts

Back
Top