Green Cheek attacking me!

[tonycgi]

My bird is a little more than 2 years old. She was parent raised and has always been nippy, but she has started to attack me, with serious bites.
The vet, called her a wild bird, had clipped her wings a little to slow her down, but she has molted and that may be a factor. She is so fast that the only way I could handle her is by covering with something, and trying to get her in the cage. I probably could have reacted better, trying to fend her off, but I don't like having my face attacked. I wish I had done better. I have numerous bites from the last few days, especially my ear. The interaction has definitely made her more hostile, and me wary of her. She will cuddle up to my chin and I will scratch her for a while, and at some point when she goes on my shoulder, she will suddenly attack my ear. After several bites it is pretty painful. My doctor wanted to put me on blood thinners, good thing I refused.

Tomorrow I will get her wings clipped so I can at least handle her, I'm not sure where we go from here. If anyone can offer suggestions it would be appreciated.

 

[wrench13]

In a word; shunning. WHen properly done, it is the most effective way to address behavioral biting. This instant change jeykl/hyde type is likely just hormone driven. Those you don't shun for. The bird's got little control over itself during puberty and the first few mating seasons. And make sure you get fluent in your conures body language. Its not likely to be as obvious as an Amazons, but its there.

 

[DonnaBudgie]

If your Dr wants you to take "blood thinners" they have a good medical reason for it that you should not ignore in fear of your parrot. These drugs are not going to cause you to bleed too much out of a parrot bite. A wing trim is the thing to do to prevent facial attacks.

 

[wrench13]

A blood thinner is not going to cause you to bleed out due to a parrot bite! I take them and Salty nails me all the time.

 

[tonycgi]

Thanks for the advice, yes I started shunning her as soon as I got control. The question is how long should I do it. I've tried a couple of hours I'm not sure what is the most effective. I thought she was a little to young for changes. She has always been rough, and I've tried to teach her to be more gentle.
btw, The blood thinner remark was a joke!

 

[wrench13]

Shunning works like this, below. Shunning for long periods is totally ineffective. Read on..

Biting, whether intentional or not, just over preening your skin or actually taking chunks of meat out - all are PAINFULL! In the wild that sort of behavior is not tolerated by the flock. They ostracize flock members who continue to act like that. We call it 'Shunning'. This WILL work, but needs to be done correctly to get the message across and it needs to be done IMMEDIATELY so the parrot can associate the bite with the shunning action. And it needs to happen every time and with anyone involved with the parrot.

When the bite or over preening occurs:

• Say in a forceful but not shouting voice "No Bite" or other endearments.
• Immediately place the parrot on a nearby, handy chairback. NOT the cage (that would only teach the parrot to bite when he wants to go back to his cage).
• Turn your back to him and ignore him for 1 minute. No peeking, no talking about or too him, NADA. NO eye contact. No less or the message is lost, no more or the bird will not associate the action with the bite.
• After a minute you can try to re-establish contact.

Rinse, repeat as needed. Most parrots get the message after a few times, some may need more. Also very important - make sure the bite is not your fault. Annoying your parrot, asking him to step up when he is otherwise preoccupied with eating or playing, bothering him during known moody times like mating season, or ignoring the warnings and body language of your parrot - these are bites that you deserve! Learn, and be a better parront !!