Last ditch effort about aggression / contradictory advice

GFGC

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Aug 26, 2015
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Hey everyone.
Not my first post here, but rather my third and possible my last... still about the same thing... my biting, male green cheek. I apologize for the length of this post! (seriously, it's long...)

I got my bird one year ago today.

Some background and disclaimer before the advice comes in:

Charlie (maybe he bites because he's mad that I accidentally gave him such a common bird name) was nippy from day one. In fact, he was biting the other birds in the cage when we went to pick him up. I've worked with him relentlessly over the past year. He is clicker trained and can do a bunch of tricks. He is target trained. He is (partially) potty trained. He says "step up," and "what are you doing?" He also says "gimme a kiss," will press his mouth on yours and make a kiss sound and then say "thank you!" Before his wing clip, he was also recall trained. He's a smart cookie and picks things up really fast! He is on a diet of pellets and chop. He gets covered at around 7:30 every night and uncovered at around 8:00 the next morning, unless its a weekend in which case it might be a little later. He doesn't get pet anywhere but his head. No erogenous zones are stimulated. No head bobbing is returned and nothing resembling a nest box has been provided for him. Any time he has regurgitated for me I have walked away and not encouraged it. He spends hours a day outside of his cage.

I have read the Parrot Wizard's book and watched his videos. I have watched the DVDs from BirdTricks.com. I have read countless articles. I am not posting this part to say that any of these people are right in their methods but rather to show that I have done research and am active is trying to provide the best for Charlie.

I clean his cage every day. A full paper changed and wipe with paper towels. Water changes multiple times a day. Baths are offered a few times a week. I am not currently working so I devote a ton of time to the little guy.

So, my dilemma is that he is a very, VERY bitey bird. He bites when he is getting pet. He bites when he is getting fed. He bites when he takes a treat. He bites when he steps up. One of his new things is to try to bite my hand when I am changing his food dish, to the point where he will almost totally squeeze through the door where I am attempting to insert his bowl. He will go out of his way to bite a hand that is within reach. Sometimes it's a quick snap of the neck and a little nip. Other times it's a running lunge and a clamping bite that leaves blood now and bruises later. He bites on his cage. He bites if he's on the bed. He bites if he is on the floor. He bites in new environments and he bites in his "territory."

There are no instances where I am ever completely confident he won't just decide he is done being nice and sink his beak into me, usually on a spot that he has already torn into and left scabbed and bloodied. I am not NERVOUS around him (before someone tells me he can read my mood... trust me, he doesn't give one lick about my mood), but I am definitely mindful of him. Is he biting 100% of the time? No. Sometimes he will step up just fine. Sometimes he will enjoy a good scratch. However, a good 80% of the time that head scratch session will end with him grabbing my finger with his foot like a dinosaur, screeching, and tearing my cuticle off.

Advice over the past year has come in two forms: A and B. A always contradicts B. For example:

A: "Don't remove yourself after he bites you, you will just give him what he wants."

B: "If he is biting, leave him alone and ignore him to teach him that's wrong."

Or

A: "I used the earthquake method to throw my bird off balance when he would bite. After a week he got the message!"

B: "Don't use the earthquake method. You will ruin your bird's trust. Just calmly say 'no' and set him down."

Now any of these methods may have worked for other people. Maybe someone is lucky and got a bird that speaks english and knows what "no" means. Maybe that bird also doesn't have its beak a quarter inch into their thumb so it can be easily set down. Not my bird!

Charlie, in spite of his intelligence and amazing ability to learn, has either never understood that biting is bad or enjoys doing it so much that punishment is irrelevant. I have tried it all:

Time outs in his cage.
Walking away from him and leaving him alone.
Earthquakes.
Putting him on the floor.
Physically holding him and holding his beak and saying "no" firmly while making eye contact.
Simply ignoring it.
HEAVILY re-enforcing good, non-biting behavior with treats and clicks.
Blowing on him when he bites.
Using a spray bottle on him when he bites (most people say not to do this, but they also don't have hands that look like a mummy, and it didn't work anyway).
Adding Avicalm to his food and water.
His wings are clipped. The day of his first clip at the vet he was an angel and was like a completely different bird. That didn't last long however. His lack of flight just became the new normal for him and he soon went back to being aggressive.

Nothing has had any effect on his behavior. He still likes me and wants attention like crazy. But he's mean about it.

At what point am I faced with the fact that my bird just bites? He's often not fun because of this. Because of this my BIG FEAR is that he eventually becomes a showpiece and not the part of the family he is supposed to be. I can deal with him being aloof or not affectionate. I've made peace with that, but when you have a pet that you dote over like crazy that will deliberately find a way to bite you and cause you pain, it very quickly becomes exhausting. We bought Charlie in what was, in retrospect, kind of a bird mill type of situation. I have a strong feeling that his formative weeks were not all that they should have been for a companion parrot having seen other breeders and bird stores since then.

The fact that he has literally not stopped molting since I got him surely compounds his moodiness. He's also celebrating his first birthday which probably has a hormonal effect on him, but that doesn't really explain every other day of the past year.

Compounding this is the fact that my girlfriend is preparing to bring home another baby green cheek at the end of the month. A little female turquoise baby from a very different environment than Charlie. The breeder has been sending her photos of her on a weekly basis. They are clearly doing a better job raising her than whoever took care of Charlie. My gut tells me that this is a bad time to introduce a whole new bird into the mix, but I really can't stop it. Her mind is made up so now that is adding another element of stress to the mix: will Charlie get WORSE with this new intruder in the home? Will he injure the new bird? Will he bond to her and then REALLY hate me?

That's a separate issue, of course, but can anyone tell me anything about my bird's aggressive biting? I love the little guy, but after a year of this, I am truly at a loss as to whether I can ever mold his behavior into the gentle companion I was hoping for and wondering if I should just save myself the heartache and accept that he is a "mean" pet and stop setting myself up for disappointment every time a "step up" ends in bloodshed.

Has anyone else had a bird like this?
 
You need to retrain..yourself! Throw that wizard stuff away.
FYI, no mean birds! Confused, spoiled, demanding? Big YES! Your baby is really so young, also!

Reread all Birdman666 put together for you here.
http://www.parrotforums.com/conures/56935-conure-s-aggression-worse-every-day-desperate-help.html

If it helps, look at this.
http://www.parrotforums.com/training/57935-brainstorming-biting-parrots.html

Her approach is different from mark's, but NOT contradictory.
An example, my JoJo tended to nail me, only in the morning, first out of cage. No aggressiveness, just,,chomp!

I changed this behavior, first time, permanently! Easy, I use a perch for her to step on! After that,, everything back to normal! In other words, I avoided the bite and re-associated the action with something else! You really need to look ahead, bite wise.
 
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He definitely has no issue stepping up using a stick. I moved him around a bit that way today. I feel a little like I'm starting from scratch with him which is ok so long as I make progress with him.

I apologize for how much my frustration comes through in my post. He's really not a BAD bird. He's just a bird being a bird and he's a puzzle to me. The times he is sweet just make the hard times that much worse because I feel like "oh, he's cool now!" and then he's a little beast for another month.

I will re-read the info. He had a pretty decent evening today. We did a TON of step-up click training and he did well. Earlier today, not so much.

The work continues. Thank you.
 
I'm not an expert at all, but I do have a comment that could maybe help? And BTW, you sound like the absolute best parrot owner, I can tell you have a big heart. Maybe put some focus on establishing positive behaviors, as opposed to trying to eliminate the negative? could you maybe teach some tricks like doing a high-five or making a certain sound or whatever seems fun and cute to you? Perhaps occupying some time with that bonding interaction, might just reduce some of the time spent fighting. Maybe even over time and developed bonding the biting will decrease even more?


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GREAT ADVICE above, and in those threads.

I want to second the compliments above. You sound like a great bird lover. And you love your little assailant STILL! I especially approve of the reinforcing-non-biting behaviors: that's great behavior mod!

Let me just add this. My conure is bigger than a mini-macaw and mannnn can he bite. I have lessened the bites to almost zero over the decades... not because I've changed the bird, but I have changed me. And a lot of that has involved giving up on a lot of my desires/expectations. After years of battle, I surrendered. I don't do stuff that gets me bitten. I don't scratch his head much, ever... tail is okay, go figure. In some ways, I swallow my disappointment at having such a little Genghis Khan for a pet, but he is what he is. I guess he's earned it. And I love him more than I can express.

So I guess what I'm saying is... wherever the dust settles... please let it be okay. Don't do stuff that gets you bitten... take whatever ridiculous precautions needed. And in the end... give in to your obvious BEAUTIFUL desire just to LOVE him.
 
GFGC... I totally understand your frustration! I hate to admit that you are doing much better than I did.

Jonesy, the Goffin I "adopted" after Smokey passed... I didn't know aquat about 'Too's...period..and I adopted him anyway.
At first he was a very loving,friendly,happy little guy.

Then one day it all ended :( Out of the blue,he turned into a screamer AND biter. One minute I was giving him loveys and skritches and the very next SECOND there was BLOOD dripping off of whatever he was perched on...my arm...my hand..and it was just like THAT! A Dr Jeckyl/Mr Hyde.
He would RUN at me..to bite me. If he was on his roof top,he'd lower his head and I'd be skritchin away...then CHOMP! into my finger..and then he'd run away from that! He knew exactly what he was doing!
Then the screaming...24/7...from the moment he woke to long after he went to bed.
I read...reread..posted...tried EVERYTHING and ANYTHING...reevaluated what might have changed in that year with me..nothing had changed :confused:

For Amy's safty and wellbeing and MY sanity..I had to rehome him. I still feel like a failure. He has been rehomed to a woman and her family who own a convienence store right down the street...I see them every week and Jonesy is thriving. He is loved and gives love so it all worked out...at least in my situation.
Sounds to me you are persistent and doing whatever it takes to change your situation. KUDO's to you! good advice given here! good Luck!

Jim
 
I think you have got lots of great advice and s couple of compliments too which I totally agree with but one sentence in your post keeps haunting me and that is you said he was moulting all the time. A scratch on yhe head can easily turn into a nasty bite if accidently you hurt the bird and that can happen when they are moulting, so easily it can happen, which may explain why you get those nips but thats not my point here ...the fact that your bird is moulting continnually is worrying me and while Im not overly experienced with birds I have had a Conure and it did take a long time to get him from T-Rex to cuddley he was nit raised as a hand tame and Im guessing your wasnt either and even in cudley mode my boy could now and again nip in later years but as he grew older he nipped less and less. But I remember he did not moult continnually and I have never had a bird who moulted continnually so maybe somebody more experienced can correct me on this but I would be going to the vet to investigate why my conure is constantly moulting before addressing the biting issue for it may well be that the excessive biting has to do with the excessive moulting. Moulting birds can be nippy. If you do introduce a second conure dont forget to keep quarrentine in mind and also I wouldnt be letting them have out of cage time together until you are fully sure that they wont hurt each other and also I hope your GF knows that her conure will need a seperate cage. I hope you get to the bottom of the problem and can find the answer to sorting it out but the moulting being an ongoing issue is something I would certainly bring to the attention of your AV.
 
I think you have got lots of great advice and s couple of compliments too which I totally agree with but one sentence in your post keeps haunting me and that is you said he was moulting all the time. A scratch on yhe head can easily turn into a nasty bite if accidently you hurt the bird and that can happen when they are moulting, so easily it can happen, which may explain why you get those nips but thats not my point here ...the fact that your bird is moulting continnually is worrying me and while Im not overly experienced with birds I have had a Conure and it did take a long time to get him from T-Rex to cuddley he was nit raised as a hand tame and Im guessing your wasnt either and even in cudley mode my boy could now and again nip in later years but as he grew older he nipped less and less. But I remember he did not moult continnually and I have never had a bird who moulted continnually so maybe somebody more experienced can correct me on this but I would be going to the vet to investigate why my conure is constantly moulting before addressing the biting issue for it may well be that the excessive biting has to do with the excessive moulting. Moulting birds can be nippy. If you do introduce a second conure dont forget to keep quarrentine in mind and also I wouldnt be letting them have out of cage time together until you are fully sure that they wont hurt each other and also I hope your GF knows that her conure will need a seperate cage. I hope you get to the bottom of the problem and can find the answer to sorting it out but the moulting being an ongoing issue is something I would certainly bring to the attention of your AV.

This idea could have merit - Our Alexandrine is untouchable during her molt. It clearly just hurts if we touch her pins, so we let her be and offer more baths until she's through it. Our Patagonian molts lightly year-round and can be touchy about pinnies, as well.
 
My Patagonian moults a BIG one in July-August (wings and tail and most body/head) and then a LITTLE one (just contour/body feathers) in December-January. BUT... I can certainly second the fact that he is one grouchy rooster during the moults, especially the big ones. I avoid the prickly areas obediently!

So if it's due to moulting... what's to be done? Try to regulate the moult? Or just be more aware of it, or enhance preening by more sprays, bathing, or... ?
 
And I recall your original post and the riot the reaction when I gave my lil bit of advice with my lil method that's worked 100% of the time in 30- 40 years of bird husbandry. I even PMed you willing to talk to you on the phone when after apparently over a month had passed and you were making little if any progress.. wanting to keep it out of the forum... but got no response. Apparently some thought my method(s) were cruel and inhuman and endanger the poor delicate birdie (which was complete hogwash).. and you were given tons of "it might work" advice... which didn't... Unfortunately now.. you have a bird that is a habitual biter. Im very sorry that has happened to you and your bird. Methinks it may not be too late. I have had several rescue birds I have taken in... very aggressive. ones owners gave up on I managed to "undo" their bad habits. As for a bird that is continually molting.. could it be that around his head he just cant get rid of his own pin feathers?? That sheath needs to come off. In the wild they preen each other.. hence not an issue.. In a home with no other "feathered" member of the flock... its up to us to help. From what Im hearing from you that is only part of the problem.. being that your bird takes every moment he can to make you bleed.
Getting a second bird might solve the preening issue IF they get along... and IF.. but not the other bloody encounters you are having. Its awesome that you still are making an effort to work with this bird. Note... I have bled my fair share as well with difficult birds and know how frustrating some can be. Now if you wanna try my method as a last ditch effort you are welcome to PM me... ill give u my # and we can save LOTS of time cuz Im not online much. Heck if you were closer Id drop by and bring my flock to meet ya. My last addition to the flock was a lil SC I named Booger...who was taught to bite accidentally by its previous owner. He now spends his hours out of the cage curled up like a kitten on my wifes shoulder seeing how much sugar he can get... an awesome transition from the "alligator with feathers" he was when I got him. If I hear from you... cool... if not.. that's cool too... and I wish you the best of luck.
 
I'm just going to 'dissect' the post here... and probably be contradictory.



I have read the Parrot Wizard's book and watched his videos. I have watched the DVDs from BirdTricks.com.
I don't recommend Birdtricks. They have recommended starving birds in the past to create reliance. Essentially, it's a starvation diet that results in the bird losing weight. I never cared for their crappy advertisement videos. I recall a time when they had fake testimonials on their websites. How could I tell they were fake? Same testimonial on two different pages and the only difference being was the bird's species! Name of the bird and the owner were the same!

Bird tricks does what they do for money and all of their old content is just plain bad advice! I haven't seen their new content, so I can't comment on that, but I found proof that it's all about the money! Not to say that they DON'T enjoy helping out people with their birds, but they are SALES PEOPLE first! And they take terms that have been accepted within the training circles and relabeled them as their own. Then said that these were "trade secrets" that the experts wont share (No wonder! They are using different terms! You can't find those terms being used by the *REAL* experts!) to keep you in the dark. So here, they'll sell you their DVD's showing you these experts 'tricks'.

Funny thing is, if you go straight to these experts, you can get the same advice, AND BETTER, for less! These experts who are behaviorists and trainers first and sales people last. Sure, the experts need to make a living, too, but they are there to personally help you first, rather than sell you something.


And guess who the Parrot Wizard learned from??? (NOTE: I do not recommend him, either!!!)


I have read countless articles. I am not posting this part to say that any of these people are right in their methods but rather to show that I have done research and am active is trying to provide the best for Charlie.

Did you read anything from Barbara Heidenreich? Lara Joseph? Susan Friedman? Hillary Hankey? Jim McKendry? Pamela Clark?


He bites when he is getting pet.

1.) Stop petting him

2.) Teach him to bow his head down in order to get pet. This is done in a serious, where you first teach him to put his head down, then teach him to allow you to come closer to him, then teach him to allow you to touch him, then finally teach him to allow you to pet him.


He bites when he is getting fed.

1.) Take him out of the cage before you place food in the cage.

2.) Teach him to station on a perch in the back of the cage when you go to feed him.


He bites when he takes a treat.

1.) Use a spoon or other object to give him a treat

2.) Drop the treat into a cup

3.) Make him reach for the treat but keep your fingers far enough away that he can't bite your fingers


He bites when he steps up.

1.) Use a wooden or rope perch to have him step up onto

2.) Stop having him step up.

3.) Reteach step up. Instead of having him *physically* step up (i.e. stepping up stairs), make your hand an extension of whatever he's on (i.e. going from your carpeted living-room to the tiled kitchen or diningroom - it's different, but the same level). You will either need to have him target his feet to your hands but keep his head up (great if he's target trained!) or you may need to lure him onto your hand over a series of increments and then slowly remove the lure.


He will go out of his way to bite a hand that is within reach.
Keep him busy with toys or foraging activities. Reward, reward, reward desired behavior. If you see he's inclined to bite, remove your flesh. AVOID GETTING BITTEN


He bites on his cage.

See my "step up" and "food" replies. Teach him to station, teach him to step up. If it looks like he's going to bite, then back off. Don't get bitten. He also doesn't get a reward. You can try again in a few seconds or a few minutes.


He bites if he's on the bed.

1.) Don't allow him on the bed

2.) Teach him to play with toys on the bed

Beds have sheets and blankets, and this can result in birds being more hormonal when they have a place to hide and snuggle... so it might be a good idea to not allow him there anyway...


He bites if he is on the floor.

1.) Don't allow him on the floor

2.) Maybe teach him to play fetch with a hard plastic ball?


He bites in new environments and he bites in his "territory."

More work on not getting bitten. More work on getting him socialized to new environments. More work around environments he's already comfortable in.





Advice over the past year has come in two forms: A and B. A always contradicts B. For example:

A: "Don't remove yourself after he bites you, you will just give him what he wants."


Bad advice. Removing yourself from the situation can be a form of "punishment" for the bird, and also give you time to think what you did wrong so perhaps you can avoid that situation in the future.

B: "If he is biting, leave him alone and ignore him to teach him that's wrong."

Not really good advice, either... Simply ignoring the behavior doesn't teach the animal "WHAT TO DO". If anything, it *might* teach them "what not to do", or likewise, it may teach them that they need to increase their efforts to get their point across. This means biting harder. Biting more often.



A: "I used the earthquake method to throw my bird off balance when he would bite. After a week he got the message!"

Ok, so you use the earthquake method. Bird may learn that you are an unstable perch and wont want to step up. Or maybe the method scares the bird, causing the bird to fly off. You chase after the bird. Bird gets into a "fight or flight" panic mode. You capture the bird. Bird is now terrified of you.

Does the method work? Yes, it can, in some cases! But just because it works doesn't mean it's a reliable method! Or that it's a healthy method! And it also doesn't address why the biting is happening in the first place!

B: "Don't use the earthquake method. You will ruin your bird's trust. Just calmly say 'no' and set him down."

Again... not ideal advice... not bad, either, but not ideal. Same issue, it doesn't address why the biting is happening in the first place.

The only bite that can't be rewarded is the one that never occurs. This basically means that you need to change your behavior and learn the cues to biting to help avoid getting bitten - and train new behaviors that are incompatible to biting.

Such as station training. If a bird learns to station on a perch within the cage, that bird can't be chasing your hand while you change the dishes out.

Or highly training independent play. If a bird is playing with a foot toy, or any toy for that matter, it's harder for them to bite you when they're busy with something else in their beak.



I have tried it all:

Time outs in his cage.
Walking away from him and leaving him alone.
Earthquakes.
Putting him on the floor.
Physically holding him and holding his beak and saying "no" firmly while making eye contact.
Simply ignoring it.
HEAVILY re-enforcing good, non-biting behavior with treats and clicks.
Blowing on him when he bites.
Using a spray bottle on him when he bites (most people say not to do this, but they also don't have hands that look like a mummy, and it didn't work anyway).
Adding Avicalm to his food and water.
His wings are clipped. The day of his first clip at the vet he was an angel and was like a completely different bird. That didn't last long however. His lack of flight just became the new normal for him and he soon went back to being aggressive.


I don't feel as if you have tried it all. Although you have done *GREAT* in teaching him new behaviors, I feel as if the issue is a lack of training in specific areas, and a lack of knowing how to not get bitten. (and yes! I understand that's easier said than done!)

By allowing the bird to bite, you are teaching them that they need to bite in order to communicate with you. If you can learn the precursors to biting, and avoid getting bitten, you teach the bird that they don't need to bite. The downside is if your bird has learned to bite without the 'tell-tale' signs of them going to bite. There will still be signs that the bird is going to bite, but these will be far more subtle than a bird who hasn't learned to bite.


The following video is a great example of some of these warning signs! And they should be read loud and clear! (skip to 3 minutes if you want to see only the info about what not to do!)

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lr4QrTLKzjw"]Parrot Training, Bird taming: What not to do - and helpful Tips - YouTube[/ame]




The fact that he has literally not stopped molting since I got him surely compounds his moodiness. He's also celebrating his first birthday which probably has a hormonal effect on him, but that doesn't really explain every other day of the past year.

Are you sure he's been molting this entire time? Birds can, and do, lose feathers throughout the entire year. This isn't considered molting. Molting occurs when they lose *a lot* of feathers, both large and small ones.



will Charlie get WORSE with this new intruder in the home? Will he injure the new bird? Will he bond to her and then REALLY hate me?

No telling until that time occurs. It would probably be best to keep Charlie and the new bird separate anyway, for at least a month, if not longer, to ensure the new baby is healthy. (i.e. quarantine) This can also be a great time to form a bond with the new bird.
 
Has anyone else had a bird like this?

I don't consider myself to be an expert by any means...

I have handled some birds that I was told were "one person birds" and bite everyone else. Most recent ones were a senegal and a citron crested cockatoo. I've interacted with other "one person birds", which includes a hybrid macaw.

Someone bought a parrotlet from a breeder, but the bird just didn't get along with the gal. Through a sheer accident, I was able to figure out what this young parrotlet needed and I was able to provide that for her. The owner, breeder and other people told me to take her home! Because she interacted with me and my SO far better than she did the owner! (No, I didn't take her!)



Another time, I had a stranger ask me if I wanted another bird because she knew someone who had a green cheek conure that she couldn't handle. Story goes, the daughter worked at a pet store, fell in love with the conure, bought the conure for her mother and brought her home. The conure ended up being the daughter's bird. Daughter went off to college, leaving birdy at home with mother. Mother got bit. Constantly.

I went over half expecting to take home this bird, but having no desire to. I was greeted at the door by the mother and we spoke for a little bit. Then she tried taking the bird out of the cage. She was having difficulties, so I asked if I could. Using the bird's favorite treats (sunflower seeds!), I was able to get her out of the *huge* cage she was in. I was able to get this bird to step up without biting. The mother told me that she often has problems getting the bird off of her shoulder, so I deliberately put the bird on my shoulder. I then got her to step off without biting. The only time this GCC bit me was when the leg band was caught around her toe and I was moving it up the leg. (band too big)

Needless to say, I did not take this bird home, either. The mother was able to figure out how to interact with her. Still got bit, occasionally, but learned how to work with her and avoid most bites.


And Jayde, my little red throated conure. In her foster home, she was a very hands off bird. Loved scritches, but wouldn't leave her cage. Considering who her foster mum was, I'm surprised she was so "anti-social". Jayde *loves* older women! And her foster mum is an older gal! Me on the other hand? I'm younger. Jayde was with her foster mum for 6 months and would hardly leave her cage at all. About two weeks after coming to me, she was happily chattering away on my shoulder making a bunch of happy sounds. Now, that doesn't mean that she was not biting or anything at this point, merely she finally had the courage to leave her cage and we continued working from there. Jayde has a favorite lady at the local bird club, and if Jayde decides to visit her, then I'm chop! And if I separate them and take Jayde home, she really chews me out on the way back! Once home, she returns to normal.

Jayde is flighted now, and she enjoys flying to my shoulder for attention! And I believe the only way I was able to help her is by paying close attention to her needs! If I hadn't, I would have probably made her worse!
 
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Thank you for the compliments, everyone. Charlie is my responsibility and my little buddy in spite of the issues I am having with him. I do apologize for seemingly only visiting this forum during times of bite crisis, but you have all been very helpful and encouraging.

@NotasdumbasIlook: Yes, I remember, and I apologize for not getting back to you. I actually had a hard time even finding the PM using the forum's interface. At any rate, I did try some of your advice, but it was of no avail for me. I am glad that it worked for you, though!

@MonicaMC: THANK YOU for all the information. I will be reading it and applying it. I know that BirdTricks is a racket. I STILL get emails from them wanting me to buy this or that. I just wanted to illustrate that last year, as a brand new bird owner, I was trying whatever I could find to educate myself and try to prepare for and figure out Charlie. It took me a while to be able to separate the salespeople from the rest of the flock, so to speak! As far as the names you have listed, I am not sure because I don't always remember the author behind every article...

The new bird already has her own cage and toys, etc etc waiting for her. They will be separate for some time, for sure.

As far as the molting, he has had maybe two or three significant molts (meaning the house has little puffball tumbleweeds not he floor and he is leaving little piles of feathers and covered in pins), and generally has a few pins on him all the times in between. It kind of seems as though he will have a serious feather change for a month and a half and then be fine for a month or two and then start again. He is always irritable during the heavy changes, and this most current one was perhaps his most serious. When he's in the midst of it, his bites are a little harder in general (even just the climbing bites... he's just always like "Grrrr everything must pay for this discomfort!).

What my girlfriend and I have been doing, which either seems to be helping or he is just coming down from his savage mood swing, is basically re-training as if he was a new bird. He's stepping up decently now and I am trying to be more aware of his mood toward my hand when I ask him to do so. Yesterday I only received one bite after he awkwardly positioned himself on my hand to get pet after his bath and then decided it wouldn't do. It was harder than it needed to be, but it wasn't an offensive ATTACK move as much as it was one of his reactionary little snaps.

He does bow his head when he wants to get pet. Typically, he would come up to my hand and push his head against it or crawl under it to get scratches if I rested it on his cage. That was before he started attacking it instead, however, and I haven't attempted that since as a result. Head scratches the past week have been administered somewhat from a distance and sparingly. He has to stretch his head way up to get them because that way if he decides he would rather kill than enjoy a massage, he doesn't have full access to a nice, meaty hand. He also has a perch near the top of his cage that he will climb to and then press himself against the bars to get pet. This is my girlfriend's preferred method of petting, as he can't really grab you if you hit a spot he does not approve of.

After watching that video you embedded: Wow! That woman was stressing ME out! Between the yelling kid banging pans in the background and the woman INSISTING on petting, I think I would bite her too!

Charlie's environment is nothing like that, thankfully. He and I spend our days quietly together and he always looks like he is chomping at the bit for attention whenever he is approached. Amusingly, if you even LOOK at him he will drop what he is doing and be ecstatic that he has your attention. If he acted in any way like that one, I would definitely know I was overstepping some bounds. Charlie is a lot more subtle than that bird, and I am a lot less obnoxious than that lady!

On a side note, all the step-up reinforcement the past few days has led to him constantly saying "step up!" as he plays. That's a new one.
 
I just wanted to say that you are doing so well! We, as human beings, cannot do everything perfectly, and despite that, you are doing wonderfully!

I have a similar situation to yours, though it is not quite the same. Kiko, my cockatiel, came with these issues, and I have had him for three years, and his biting has only improved slightly. However, his home was a disaster before I originally got him, and fear played, probably, the hardest role. Nonetheless, I have not been bitten once in so long. Not because he changed, but because I changed.

He is frightened of hands, and will launch into a defensive aggressive attack mode if hands/arms are too close to comfort.

So, I use a perch to move him to the areas I need him to go. I do not touch him at all with my hands, and when I give him treats with my hands, I make sure it is a large treat, and I give him the 'codeword', which is now "yummy, yummy".

I do not even try to pet him, and instead place him next to me with the perch. I keep my face away from him, too.

Since Charlie is still biting, he is somehow getting a reward if it isn't due to pain. So you may have to change something around. Perhaps, for the time being, he could be a 'look but don't touch' parrot, until things settle down? That would minimize his chances for biting, and in the meantime, allow you to rethink your options.

And with the whole BirdTricks thing, I agree with everyone. There are better options out there, and they can flood your emails. However, I just wanted to add that this is mostly Chet who is behind everything, and Dave and Jamie, as long as it is not in the BirdTricks videos, can offer good advice. They are not as... "sales oriented" as Chet, Dave's brother. When I first got Kiko, I didn't know too much about them, so I watched their Youtube videos, and they did, surprisingly help me with Kiko. However knowing better, I no longer do so.
 
Code words are a great tactic. I do this when I administer meds so they know that's what's coming up (so they know when to run, hah!), and don't learn to fly away in terror every other time I come to pick them up.
 
GFGC, for a first time owner, I will say that you are doing far better than many! :) Received information from some not so great places, but Charlie has learned many new behaviors! Things that many people don't even think to teach their birds!

The sheaths on the pin feathers wont go away until they either fall off, or are preened off. Extra baths may help. Two molts a year should be fine, but more than that, something could be throwing him out of balance?


I forgot about the e-mails from Birdtricks, too! LOL



It does sound like you have the right idea in mind now, just need a little guidance here or there! I have no doubt that once you get things figured out with Charlie, that he'll be a fantastic companion! Even better than he is now! :D


Definitely look into some of the people I mentioned! A wealth of knowledge there! And a lot of it is in articles and videos, too! :)
 
Hey, GFGC.

I remember your other thread, and the difficulty you were having with Charlie. First of all, I'd like to say that it's great you are persevering and have not given up on your little guy. I know it can be frustrating when there's a bit of a communication gap between you and your bird. And to a large extent, a communication gap is likely what is happening.

As illustrated in Monica's video, sometimes people miss the signs that their bird puts out there warning them to cease and desist. And as you've pointed out, not all birds are quite as obvious with their signs as the grey in the video. Thing is, birds communicate with one another through body language on a level far more subtle and complex than we mere humans are capable of perceiving. Ever watch two birds who have met for the first time? Notice how, if one is hostile the other usually knows right away? Even before anything as overt as an open beak or threat display? It's because they're always communicating... and on a level we just can't match.

Why do I bring this up? Because most of the time, when we're talking about training and such, the focus is often almost exclusively on getting them to understand us. And since our primary mode of communication is verbal rather than body language, there is sometimes frustration when they fail to catch on to what we mean. But what is needed is to consider things from the bird's perspective.

These birds communicate with each other virtually instantly. Sometimes absent any vocalizations. And, I suspect, sometimes even on a largely subconscious level. So imagine their frustration at our seeming indifference to their repeated indications that they don't like something that we are doing? We must sometimes seem to them, at best, terribly dull-witted. And at worst, callous or even cruel. Birds vary in personality just as we do. Not all parrots will be as patient, or willing to give as many warnings, as the grey in the video. (He had darn near the biblical patience of Job!)

So our ability to perceive what they are trying to "say" is even more important, in my opinion, than getting them to understand what we are trying to tell them. It's a readjustment to our way of thinking.

One other point. There are many different approaches, true. But they are not necessarily contradictory. Just different. The bird's personality has to be taken into account. For instance, I'd used the "earthquake" method with my first eclectus, Bixby. (I respect Monica and largely agree with her views, but I don't think that method, done the right way, is necessarily damaging to the trust. Of course, my version is more of a momentary twitch than an earthquake. Lol!) It worked very swiftly, as he associated that particular piece of my body language with inappropriate bite pressure and adjusted accordingly. But Maya? Yeah, that method only annoyed her. So I adjusted.

Main thing to remember with a chosen approach? Consistency. Don't bounce back and forth between different methods. Otherwise you're just shifting your signals on your bird, who has enough trouble reading us as is. My personal preference? A mostly positive reinforcement approach.

Please don't give up. Perseverance is the toughest part, and you've already shown that and then some.
 
TRAINING vs SURRENDER... both have their place, in my opinion...

I join all above in applauding your stick-to-it-ness and love of your little assailant.

At risk of being repetitive...

I see it as a matter of MORE surrender, and LESS training, sometimes.

I have lessened my bites to almost zero over the decades... not because I've changed the bird, but I have changed me. And a lot of that has involved giving up on a lot of my desires/expectations. After years of battle, I surrendered. I don't do stuff that gets me bitten. I don't scratch his head much, ever... tail is okay, go figure. In some ways, I swallow my disappointment at having a pet that bites me and screams at me.

So I guess what I'm saying is... and I know I'm repeating myself...wherever the dust settles... please let it be okay. Don't do stuff that gets you bitten... take whatever ridiculous precautions needed. And in the end... give in to your obvious BEAUTIFUL desire just to LOVE him.
 

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