new with parrots......help!!!

[piamann]

hello everyone,
I am really excited to join this forum and learn from all your experiences to help me handle my umbrella Cuckatoo to best of my abilities.
I am new with birds....I had a juvenile Congo African grey for a month and we bonded really well.....sadly he succumbed to circovirus which he tested positive for once fell sick within a month with me.
after a lot of coaxing from hubby finally got another......"Angel" an umbrella Cuckatoo around 1 1/2 yr old, . he is an abandoned pet, was hand reared and very clingy and as much as I could understand of his previous home from pet shop, there were small kids in house and was being tormented so was given up by the owner.
first 2 days seemed to be happily settling down at my home. was a weekend so got a lot of attention from my 15yr old son and me. My husband job is such that he is away a lot and night shift so home only in evenings for a few hours. 3rd day when saw my husband after he was away for weekend got so excited and screaming that ended up getting aggressive attacking everyone else. especially my son. and all this time was sitting with my son and going to his room and his lap.
I have left him open to walk all over house and only cage time is during sleep or if need to step out. until 3rd day I didn't need to put him in cage for aggressive behavior.
I have a huge perch set up with lot of toys......in living room so is amongst all action during daytime .
my son had school lessons starting Monday so Was in his room studying....and break time he would step out to interact with Angel but he seemed to be getting angry at him and constantly pacing outside his door. he constantly been biting him chasing him attacking him.
few things i observed of his behavior:
1. no matter how much I was caring for it and taking along with me everywhere was craving male company...my son or my husband. if heard them would almost bite me to rush to them.
2. despite all the toys and playthings I had setup he hasn't even touched them......he prefers to go attack furniture and slippers and shoes and cushions.
3. he has a trigger for getting stressed when sees flowing fabric....like when making bed or sheets hanging or folding clothes he comes to tackle it.
4. his food habits are also very demanding he rushes to take a bite from plate or sip drink from hand and wants to be hand fed most of time.
I am constantly following it to try to set boundaries but each time I say no biting furniture and come play with your toys he gets aggressive and tries to bite me.

When went out of control I gave a few time outs as was recommended but It seems to have made him more aggressive in targeting and attacking my son.

I finally on 5th day took back to pet shop and they have kept him in cage with a female Cuckatoo to calm him down.

this is my question to you all.....is this normal behavior?
1. How do I get him to start playing with his toys so isn't so hands-on ?
2. how to get him off his fear of fabric and stop biting and being aggressive and screaming.
3. Prefers only male handling.
4. will getting another bird calm him down and make him less demanding for being held 24/7 by male members ?
5. or do you suggest he needs a different environment and my home isn't right for him?

I have cats and they have taken easily to each other. they accepted him and he is also ok with them walking all over near them.

any tips or advice on what is best recommended with this behavior? how can I train? if I can train? or let go?

oh yes lastly, I do work....so will have to leave in cage for 5-6 hours during day from next month onwards. I had left him in his own room with perch and toys as I used to my CAG but when I came back he had chewed on door and cabinets.....so I can't leave him loose in a room, will be dangerous ...so have a huge cage to play set up for that.
please advice?

thanks.......

 

[Flboy]

Hi and welcome! So very overwhelming! Our resident Cockatoo sperts will be along shortly! What part of the world are you in?

 

[piamann]

I am based in Dubai. And so hard to get info on parrots here....

 

[noodles123]

hello everyone,
I am really excited to join this forum and learn from all your experiences to help me handle my umbrella Cuckatoo to best of my abilities.
I am new with birds....I had a juvenile Congo African grey for a month and we bonded really well.....sadly he succumbed to circovirus which he tested positive for once fell sick within a month with me.
after a lot of coaxing from hubby finally got another......"Angel" an umbrella Cuckatoo around 1 1/2 yr old, . he is an abandoned pet, was hand reared and very clingy and as much as I could understand of his previous home from pet shop, there were small kids in house and was being tormented so was given up by the owner.
first 2 days seemed to be happily settling down at my home. was a weekend so got a lot of attention from my 15yr old son and me. My husband job is such that he is away a lot and night shift so home only in evenings for a few hours. 3rd day when saw my husband after he was away for weekend got so excited and screaming that ended up getting aggressive attacking everyone else. especially my son. and all this time was sitting with my son and going to his room and his lap.
I have left him open to walk all over house and only cage time is during sleep or if need to step out. until 3rd day I didn't need to put him in cage for aggressive behavior.
I have a huge perch set up with lot of toys......in living room so is amongst all action during daytime .
my son had school lessons starting Monday so Was in his room studying....and break time he would step out to interact with Angel but he seemed to be getting angry at him and constantly pacing outside his door. he constantly been biting him chasing him attacking him.
few things i observed of his behavior:
1. no matter how much I was caring for it and taking along with me everywhere was craving male company...my son or my husband. if heard them would almost bite me to rush to them.
2. despite all the toys and playthings I had setup he hasn't even touched them......he prefers to go attack furniture and slippers and shoes and cushions.
3. he has a trigger for getting stressed when sees flowing fabric....like when making bed or sheets hanging or folding clothes he comes to tackle it.
4. his food habits are also very demanding he rushes to take a bite from plate or sip drink from hand and wants to be hand fed most of time.
I am constantly following it to try to set boundaries but each time I say no biting furniture and come play with your toys he gets aggressive and tries to bite me.

When went out of control I gave a few time outs as was recommended but It seems to have made him more aggressive in targeting and attacking my son.

I finally on 5th day took back to pet shop and they have kept him in cage with a female Cuckatoo to calm him down.

this is my question to you all.....is this normal behavior?
1. How do I get him to start playing with his toys so isn't so hands-on ?
2. how to get him off his fear of fabric and stop biting and being aggressive and screaming.
3. Prefers only male handling.
4. will getting another bird calm him down and make him less demanding for being held 24/7 by male members ?
5. or do you suggest he needs a different environment and my home isn't right for him?

I have cats and they have taken easily to each other. they accepted him and he is also ok with them walking all over near them.

any tips or advice on what is best recommended with this behavior? how can I train? if I can train? or let go?

oh yes lastly, I do work....so will have to leave in cage for 5-6 hours during day from next month onwards. I had left him in his own room with perch and toys as I used to my CAG but when I came back he had chewed on door and cabinets.....so I can't leave him loose in a room, will be dangerous ...so have a huge cage to play set up for that.
please advice?

thanks.......

My bird used to bite my mom when we visited because she loves my dad. It decreased over the years, but my mom is still the last one to hold her (even though Noodles constantly wants her to)..

Read this thread for detail:
http://www.parrotforums.com/behavioral/87543-cockatoo-always-biting-screaming.html (see my responses)

Also, this thread (and the links in my response, as well as my ABA reply-- both the reply and the links will be helpful)
http://www.parrotforums.com/training/86854-my-parrot-keepsbiting-me.html

http://www.parrotforums.com/new-mem...e-basic-questions-about-parrot-ownership.html my long speech to people new to parrots (read for detail because things you wouldn't expect (like shadows, boxes, sleep etc can impact mood).

It's really important that you work out a plan to respond to these behaviors now because between the ages 4-8, U2s reach sexual maturity and all of the crazy increases a lot.

Remember- parrots in the wild would fly 40 miles a day...so even a house is too small for a bird. You have to find a way to let him out...No matter how big the cage, it's not 40 miles. You are wise to keep the bird caged when you cannot supervise--never leave them out when you are not home etc. That having been said, keeping a u2 caged all of the time is a recipe for disaster.

You have to teach them to play. You have to teach them everything. When he attacks furniture, does it get your son's and husband's attention? Do they tell the bird to stop, yell, scold, or move the bird? If so, the bird could be doing it for attention (and ALL attention is good attention to a cockatoo).

You need to keep building trust and as you are the least preferred, you should be the one giving the very best treats. If anything stressful has to be done, the ones the bird likes best should do it in order to avoid setting back trust with you.

12 hours of sleep nightly, on a set schedule=very important. Does the bird have a dark, quiet sleep space and bedtime/wakeup? Umbrellas and M2s need the most sleep of any parrot species-- with some requiring up to 13 a night.

How is the diet?

If a bad behavior happens and you don't know why, the best thing you can do without knowing more is to ignore the bad and attend to the good.

No shadowy spaces, no partial cage coverings while the bird is awake, no boxes, tents, huts, no access to under clothing, furniture or blankets.

Pet on the head and neck only-- the rest revs up hormones (same with the shadowy spaces).

Work at your bird's pace...Have your son and husband model playing with toys (have them praise etc when she touches the toy of shows interest).

Look at how your son and husband interact with her-- they do sometimes have gender preferences due to past experiences, but consider their mannerisms, style of speaking etc-- do they appear more "confident" outwardly? I am not saying to act like a man lol, but when I first got mine, I think I was nervous, and she picked up on that. I know it is REALLY hard not to be when you have been bitten, but once you start getting better at reading cues and preventing triggers, you will rarely get bitten if you move at your bird's pace.

Consider asking your husband and son to go on an outing or something every so often so that you can spend some time alone with the bird-- again, that time should be low-stress and full of whatever it is that your bird likes other than your husband and son.

Keep in mind when training, that their attention is likely the biggest reward she can get (more powerful than a treat etc).

I would not get a bird for your bird when you are struggling with the one you have (rule of thumb: never get a bird for your bird). 1. Your bird hasn't hit sexual maturity, and when your bird does, everything will get more intense and preferences etc can change. Another bird may or may not get along with yours, and even if they do okay now, in a few years you could have a hormonal mess. They could breed or try to mate (which can lead to aggression, screaming, egg binding etc). They could fight, which can lead to all sorts of issues. It will also likely make it much harder for you to form any bond, as humans tend to become the 3rd wheel when another bird is in the picture. Even if it seems to help short-term, your bird could live for 80 years and you are still in the baby stages, so it's impossible to predict your bird's personality/preferences at puberty.

If you get a second, you should only do so because you personally want one. Worst-case-scenario, you end up having to separate them and tend to both individually (including out of cage time separately)...For one Umbrella, out of cage time should be at least 4 hours a day...for 2, you would be looking at 8 in the event that conflict arises...The expenses, the noise, the time and the behavioral issues can potentially increase w/2 ...I am not saying it can't work, but U2s are THE MOST surrendered parrot because they are really challenging. I love them dearly...but I wouldn't get another one-- especially because one is more than enough to keep you busy...You just have no way of knowing what will happen long term, and fighting or breeding behavior on top of everything else could cause even more stress in your life. Plus, if they do bond but you continue to struggle (to the point of re-homing) then rehoming a pair is much harder and splitting up a pair is devastating.

Again, umbrellas are like the deep end of the pool when it comes to parrot ownership. They tend to struggle in captivity BUT that doesn't mean I am saying you can't do this...It really depends on your knowledge and commitment. They are super loud, and super needy...They are like perpetual, attention-seeking 3 year-olds with ADD who never grow up and have a chainsaw attached to their faces. They can be so much fun, but they are a TON of work. If you do decide to re-home, I would do it earlier rather than later, because the longer the bird stays and bonds, the more traumatizing it will be if you give the bird up.

 

[noodles123]

I would not leave him out of his cage when you are gone (even in a room), as they can chew on walls, windows and cords...There are lots of seemingly innocent items that are very poisonous to parrots. Although your bird needs lots of time out of the cage, I didn't mean that you shouldn't cage him when you aren't able to supervise.

If fabrics are a trigger, I would avoid folding sheets etc around your bird until you have a better handle on these behaviors.

Be VERY careful with the cats. They carry parasites and bacteria that can kill a bird from even a minor scratch. ALL cats carry this bacteria, which is what makes them so dangerous. The scratch might be super small and minor, but the infection is not.

 

[noodles123]

When he bites the furniture, it is a 2-fold reward: 1. he is having fun chewing it etc. 2. he is getting a reaction/attention out of whoever sees it (and cockatoos LOVE reactions/attention/playing "games"). When you tell him no and try to distract him with toy, you are becoming part of the bird's "game".

Instead, I would try to give him more attention for all good behaviors, and work on station training (when he stations appropriately, remember, the ultimate reward is that male attention, but still pair it with treats ). I would also get play perches to put in a few rooms (if he doesn't have them). They want to be where the action is and they shouldn't ALWAYS be with you, or they will become overly dependent, but does he have a place of his own that he can sit in that room other than the furniture?
You don't want to just allow him to go wherever whenever...he needs to have spaces that are his (but the rest, in my opinion, should require a level of permission---earned, not granted automatically).

Try to make the furniture less appealing if you can. If he goes toward the furniture, you could consider blocking or distracting him BEFORE he gets close and GIVING him attention for something good BEFORE the chewing starts (could be something stupid and little, like "touch this straw"..bird touches straw, you make a big deal of how awesome it was +treat and redirect without allowing the furniture to become an opportunity). If you teach a random trick, like "touch this straw" you can use it across settings and it's really easy for them to learn...SO, start practicing the "trick" while he is on his cage top, so that he doesn't just associate it with going toward the furniture.

If that doesn't work and he gets to the furniture, you could try to move him to an acceptable location...but that is still technically attention. See if he still chews as often if he is getting serious, one-on-one attention from his preferred people, I would be surprised-- I have a feeling it's attention seeking (but that he does enjoy chewing). If he is getting one- on-one attention from them and liking it (I bet he won't do it). Try having them model playing with toys and presenting a wooden toy with which he is familiar BEFORE the biting starts (new toys can scare them, so don't just plop any random toy in front of him). If he chews the furniture anyway, you could move him silently to her cage top or somewhere and have everyone immediately leave the room for a few minutes if he does it (NEVER returning if he if screaming, and not returning until he has been silent for at least 10 solid seconds- restarting the count at 1 if any screaming occurs between 1-10 s). Do not talk or yell about him during this time (they know). He may eventually realize that when he does that, the fun ends and the people she likes leave. IDEALLY, someone she cares for less would move him the second the biting happens (in the event that you try everything else), but the problem is, he probably will be mad at you if you do it...Try to come up with a way for him to get attention that is positive...so maybe he says a word or makes a silly sound, or plays with his toys and everyone comes running to praise him-- once he gets a replacement behavior (again, assuming this is attention seeking) then he will use it first, which will give you time to pay attention to him before the chewing starts.

side-note* when my bird is trying to get my attention when I am working etc, she will first say come here a bunch, and if I ignore all of her other positive attempts, she will start biting the table, throwing food, or acting like she is going to climb off her cage to the ground (which she is not allowed to do). If she goes to the ground, it's because I put her there, but I try to discourage her from coming down on her own. She has started throwing food less because it is something I can ignore (and sweep up) even though it kills me...BUT the chewing of the table and climbing off the cage are things that it is really unsafe for me to ignore (the finishes on furniture can be toxic etc and if she wanders around, she could get into all sorts of trouble) so she does these things as a last resort because they always work in terms of getting my attention...She doesn't do it all the time--- just when everything else fails to get her attention, so that is something else to consider.

Some people have a time-out perch or cage (because you don't want them to think of their cage as a punishment). Before you start tacking on stuff about people leaving etc., I would just have them spend 1-on-1 time with her and see if she even tries to go chew. If she does, move her to a preferred location without making a big show of it. If you must say something, keep it really neutral and expressionless/ kind of quiet (a 1x "no furniture") or something. If it turns out that it is attention seeking. The whole goal of time-out is to remove a person/bird from the reinforcement they get for they attention-seeking behaviors (so if it is attention seeking, the bird will want to return to the group asap, which means that your bird will figure out the connection between getting attention for not chewing, vs losing it as a result of chewing).

You want him to get more attention for acceptable behaviors than bad ones. So when he is being boring and good, don't miss out on that opportunity to praise etc. The bad stuff is often what gets our attention (which teaches them they have to be bad to get noticed).

 

[Laurasea]

Welcome to the forum!
This article covers so much,
https://lafeber.com/pet-birds/stress-reduction-for-parrot-companions/

 

[GaleriaGila]

Wow, lots to think about. Thanks to our members for diving in and offering help.
I'm short on time just now, but I am terrified of the cats-element... and there is just so much going on...
With all due respect, I wonder if a parrot is a good idea for you right now.
I would urge you to keep reading and contributing here as you decide. Good for you, for being honest and open-minded enough to reach out.

 

[piamann]

thanks for all the advice....I dont want to give up on him without giving it my 100%...I know its not easy...especially keeping in mind my son and husband can't give him the attention he craves from them.....they are busy and it falls on me 100% to keep him secure and give attention and try to build trust.
Currently is at pet shop, they have informed me a trainer is coming in daily so leave for week to 10days before take home and attempt settling in again. I will try once again....to see if can manage ....I don't mind the challenge...if bonds with me and can keep happy and healthy is my goal.....but if feel is only reaching for son and husband and honestly they can't give the time nor attention nor have the patience....I will sadly with a heavy heart have to re-home

I did go to spend time with Angel in pet shop and carried its treat of corn and pepper. we took him out to play and my son hand fed it...to build trust....after that it walked a bit then kept giving my son the tilt look and all of sudden when he had his hand down asking him want to come....rushed and bit his hand.....now I don't know why is targeting him non stop....with such aggressive behavior at pet shop when is on best behavior....I won't be able to take back home where is more aggressive.
I have perch and cage setup in different rooms for daytime. For night is a smaller one in a room which is dark so can sleep peacefully, without disturbance. I share some pics so if I am doing something wrong with placement pls advice....thanks
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MDXy3cHNmaWAZ1DF6

 

[noodles123]

Could be that he likes you better than you think and that he sees your son as a threat to his attention.

You should get that box with those paper shreds out of there-- it's going to be a hormonal trigger if it isn't already. You don't want them to have access to any shadowy spaces or nesting materials (piles of paper, bedding etc).

Cage looks ok in terms of size, so do play stands etc -- but consider adding more toys to the stands---you could hang them from the ceiling if you get a ceiling guard. You have a good setup and a lovely home.
I would move his toys closer to the walls of the cage so that they don't block his movement on the main perch.
***His food and water dishes are also in a weird location in comparison to the perch..I would move them up of you can so that he can eat while perched and so that he doesn't poop or drop waste into the dishes. You can buy stainless screw-on mounts for cages without higher food doors. You could also move the main perch down so that it is about 2 inches below the dishes.

You should definitely add more perches in the cage so that he can play with his toys while perched and not so close to the ground. Also, his main perch looks pretty smooth and a bit too large for his feet- you really want to have perches with a variety of textures because dowel-types can cause bumble-foot (like bed sores on a bird's feet). Parrot Wizard makes custom perches if you need a cross-cage perch. I replaced my bird's cross-cage dowel perch with a custom-made one that I ordered from him.

Here is that wesite: https://parrotwizard.com/Custom_Perch/

here is more information on selecting sizes: https://www.naturalbirdco.co.uk/perchsizeguide.html

Here's another good link on perch issues: https://blog.birdcages4less.com/the-april-perch-series-the-importance-of-perch-diameter/

Manzanita and dragon wood perches are also good if you can get the proper diameter-- parrot wizard also has a sizing guide on there..You probably want something like 1.5-3" in diameter with some variation. You want their toes to be able to wrap 2/3 around the perch.

I would absolutely add some more wooden chew toys with a different variety of thickness-- the ones you have are very similar and both are thick and kind of boxy. My U2 prefers thinner toys..I will link the
ones the have been most popular with her here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DOU1T20/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072Q382S3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
*I always remove the cloth leaf on this toy because it feels synthetic and I worry about blockages from cloth*

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RR38MD7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

**BE CAREFUL WITH THE BELLS--- YOU CAN REMOVE THEM TOO**

My bird also likes these links:

Also, be really careful about having him in the kitchen because there are a lot of hazards in there.
Side-note: do you know about teflon/ptfe/pfoa/pfcs? I mentioned this before, but the coating is on many household appliances and cooking apparatuses. When heated, they off-gas and can kill a bird in as little as 5 minutes. Even if you move the bird out of the kitchen to a completely different room while using it, it can still kill them, so make sure you are not using any pans/drip-trays/ appliances etc that contain these chemicals. Avoid anything that says "non-stick" or "easy cleanup" if you are shopping and call ahead. If you look back at my copy and paste for new bird owners, I talk about this in more detail there...so removing him from the kitchen when you are cooking is wise for a variety of reasons, but it won't protect him from teflon etc (and just because you use a pan and your bird is fine, doesn't mean that is a safe pan because the age, acidity of the food, temperature, duration etc can all impact this. There was a member whose husband inadvertently killed almost all of her bird (in separate rooms with shut doors) by cooking an egg at a low temperature in the same pan he had been using for a long time. It starts to off-gas in the mid 300F range and there have been numerous bird deaths attributed to this (despite DuPont's claim that a pan has to be overheated in order for this to occur-- that is simply not the case).

In terms of the cat, even if you trust them, think about how unpredictable the bird can be and imagine what could happen if THE BIRD started instigating with the cat...It's not like the cat is just going to allow itself to be bitten...and a "self defense" swipe could be deadly due to the bacteria they carry. My parents' dog is okay with Noodles, but I still don't trust them together...I mean, not unless I am literally holding onto one of them. Noodles actually jumped onto their dog's back the other day (off of my arm--because she is obsessed) and thankfully I was there (the dog didn't do much, but she definitely could have...I mean, imagine someone randomly jumping onto your back)--but Noodles has no fear and thinks that she can do whatever she wants without any danger when it comes to dogs...and I know that it would only take one startle or slip-up (or playful nip) and it could be bad. Remember, these habits will last a lifetime, so since you don't know what puberty holds, you just want to make sure that you are establishing a foundation of good behavior/expectations (knowing that things will get more complicated behaviorally around that time).

 

[noodles123]

he's not an Umbrella--- he's a sulfur crested or a citron I believe . This is a sulfur crested cockatoo (Umbrellas don't have that yellow feather that sticks up when their crest is down).

 

[Rozalka]

he's not an Umbrella--- he's a sulfur crested or a citron I believe . This is a sulfur crested cockatoo (Umbrellas don't have that yellow feather that sticks up when their crest is down).

I checked the OP photos - he is a sulfur-crested cockatoo

 

[noodles123]

I'm going back to this whole issue with your son--- in addition to the fact that kids are notorious for always being able to get parents' attention (because, let's face it, it's only human), you also mentioned that he was in a home where he was being tormented by kids--- that could also be a big part of the problem (since your son is a kid, the bird may associate children with trauma).

Does that bag in the basket say "life is easier"? LOL! Funny with a cockatoo in front of it! haha

 

[piamann]

thanks so much for the tips. yes I changed all my pots and pans to copper ones when I got Angel.
wanted to ask what do you do with all the wires around house? with all the lamps and charging wires?
and you mentioned remove the box from cage.....I thought was good for keeping busy for foraging ...I had hidden his favorite treats in there. he doesn't touch a single toy.....only likes to rip newspaper. but if your opinion is that can be hormonal trigger then ..wont use it again...
today went to meet him at the petshop. They said he is getting used to being in cage.....since he was always left free to roam at previous home. next week will bring him back home......fingers crossed am able to handle him better.......and nobody screams being bitten......:l
thanks once again for taking the time to guide in such details.

 

[piamann]

hahahahaha...thats hilarious......I was calling him umbrella.....hahahhaahha....any personality difference between sulfur crested Cuckatoo??

 

[noodles123]

Umbrellas and M2s are most notorious. Sulfur Crested are slightly less notorious in comparison, but still notorious compared to other parrot species. All of the same advice still applies.

You can wrap wires or zip tie them together (but even tape is dangerous for them as it contains zinc in many cases). This is why I do not allow mine to just run free. She has her spots in the house that she is allowed to hang out (yes, sometimes she breaks the rules) but I don't let her just run on the floor without reason. There are FAR too many risks (in my opinion)--wires..paints...wood finishes..drywall...plants...other random chemicals etc.. Opening doors (eek)...closing doors (EEEK)...animals...feet...the list goes on...I have also read that cockatoos are more prone to hormones and aggression when allowed on the floor often...not sure why--maybe due to all of the shadowy spaces?

You can still create foraging opportunities by wrapping and hanging things in coffee filters etc-- what you do not want is places where they can sit that seem nesty or places in which they can put their heads in shadowy holes etc lol

 

[piamann]

how do you keep them on their perch...how to train to do that? in cage yes I know is safest locked up...but if want to allow to be out when I am around but not walk on ground......how to train that this is your area play with toys ...rather than explore wires and furniture..??
also for second bird my plan was to get a CAG and thought long term would be good they will have company .....and not 100% dependent on me for entertainment.
also what are your thoughts on keeping in aviary for daytime instead inside house all time. his wings are clipped so I usually allow out in garden to walk on grass for 15mins twice a day...for outdoor fresh air .
I plan to build this...is it recommended for a sulfur crested Cuckatoo and CAG parrot?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HjWrGqiVuuyHn2Uk9

 

[noodles123]

1. what do you mean for CAG and cockatoo? Are you planning on getting aother and trying to house them together or something?


2. station training and target training (will type more later)

3. PLEASE do not allow your bird outside unless you are holding his feet or he has a harness on (or is in a cage). Even clipped birds can fly outdoors with the right breeze etc. So many people have lost birds this way.
(harness training is a popular option)

 

[piamann]

yeah I was planning to keep a CAG along with my sulfur crested Cuckatoo. if I feel get along..in separate cage of course but just same room different perch.
how do you free flight train them? I really want to give that option to my parrot as long is safe and don't get lost.
thanks for the advise on harness. I thought with clipped wings they were ok to walk outdoors....last thing want is running house to house to retrieve.....:l

 

[noodles123]

free flight training is pretty controversial. It isn't ever totally safe, as hawks etc can kill your bird. Even the famous free-flighters out there have lost birds to free-flight mishaps (including a bird that gets lost or attacked).

Your cockatoo is so young-- I'd seriously wait to do anything more (let alone a grey) until you know your current bird..and until you know if you can handle him once he hits puberty before getting another bird b/c at least then you will have an idea of his adult personality...Even if 3 birds seem okay together, you shouldn't house them in the same cage together due the massive difference in their sizes etc. It takes one moment of aggression...and it can happen among birds that got along historically. They will need a lot of supervision...and if your cockatoo is mad about the attention your son gets, he may also be jealous of another bird.

They also tend to be very different species behaviorally but...I just think you should slow down. One cockatoo as a first bird is enough to keep you plenty busy for 80 years...at least until you get a better hold of how you feel about this a few years down the road. They both need a ton of attention and so think of what happens if they cannot even be out at the same time, then you are looking at 4 hours of attention for each bird at separate times...(8 hours). 2 birds can be super complicated...fighting, hormones, aggression, new jealousy, sexual problems etc. I am not saying you can't ever have 2, but I don't think you know what a challenge you already have on your hands and how much more interesting things can get at puberty...You haven't even had your cockatoo for a year, so you haven't had him long enough to see his true colors (plus, he's still a baby so automatically more easy-going/sweet than a bird at puberty/in adulthood...Speaking of the grey/cockatoo thing, their body language is totally different etc..they are almost opposites in many ways (speaking generally that is, with regard to tendencies/personality).
I would get the current situation under control and wait a few years so that you don't accidentally bite off more than you can chew. Again, large white cockatoos are A LOT and that is why they are surrendered so often. Yours is having some serious behavior issues at the moment, and those will only amplify as he grows up if you do not get them under control by researching ABA/ behavior etc. This trainer is not going to "fix" your bird-- it's about your relationship. My bird KNEW how to step up and talk when I got her...She refused to step up at all for 3 months...It's about the relationship, your reactions etc. A bird can be great with a trainer in a specific setting but that doesn't mean it overflows to you like it would with a dog..
Also-- if the trainer suggests that you should push into your bird, shake it, or force it to do things out of "dominance" run the other way. There are some old-school parrot trainers who are into that stuff and it is wrong and based on very false assumptions that actually can create additional behavior and trust issues down the road. You have to move at the bird's pace.. I really hope you read more about ABA. watch this (no "flooding methods") - [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNBALAF3U5E"]Are You Making These 10 Common Bird Care MISTAKES? - YouTube[/ame]

You are still very very new to this and you need to make sure you are very well-versed in behavior training/ have some experience before getting another super complicated parrot..in my opinion. The experience you had with your last grey was also with a juvenile parrot. They ALL are significantly different at puberty and into into adulthood (no matter how sweet they are when they are young).

Do you have a plan for your current bird if something happens to you? They both live forever..

Side-note: You got rid of all of your last bird's things and cleaned like crazy right? Circovirus is very hard to kill and can linger on surfaces (curtains, vents etc) and in feather dust. PBFD is what you meant, right?