New with many questions!!

secuono

New member
Mar 8, 2013
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Virginia
Parrots
Green Cheek Conure, Cipher
Green Cheek Conure, Kirby
Hello, we are getting a Green Cheek next weekend, if he's still available, and we have some questions. I am not new to keeping birds, but I am new to keeping flying birds. We have chickens.

Fiance wants to get a Sun at some point, his fav. My fav is the Green cheek I met today, he was very sweet and playful. How do we go about introducing two new birds?

The cage is this one and it will be here Tuesday.
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Products-Wrought-F040-31-Inch/dp/B00176F5L0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1362796100&sr=8-1&keywords=bird+cage"]Amazon.com: Prevue Pet Products Wrought Iron Flight Cage with Stand F040 Black Bird Cage, 31-Inch by 20-1/2-Inch by 53-Inch: Pet Supplies[/ame]

This should be large enough for th both of them when they can get along, no?

Since I have chickens, I'm guessing I need to be a bit more careful and wash my hands after dealing with one and going to the other, right? Are there any illnesses chickens and conures share?

I know these guys need a bird bath, all the ones in stores are for parakeets and other tiny birds. Can anyone link me to a website that has ones for conures or would I have to make my own?

I know these guys eat seeds, would a mix of crushed corn, oats, wheat, barely and others be ok for them to also have? I sprout oats and wheat for my farm critters and read that sprouts are also yummy for these guys, true?
We also have a tiny orchard, pear and apple. I know seeds are bad, what about leaves and branches of either? We have a Mulberry tree, blueberry bushes, safe?
We grow pumpkins, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, mixed leafy greens, peas and corn. Can conures have any of that?

I stay home 24/7 running the farm, we both like our sleep and read conures like 10-12hrs, we can do that for sure. Only issue would be an avian vet, don't have one that I know of what so ever.

We have dogs and cats, only one indoor dog and the two cats are indoor/outdoor. One cat is just terrible at hunting, no mice, no 1lb chickens [[bantams]], nothing. She likes to lay out amongst our chickens and randomly hop to spook them, then roll over and soak up the sun whilst laughing...or something, lol. Other cat does hunt, but two of our dogs are more of a bird threat than her. Conures will be in secure cages when the other critters are indoors, so no real worries about that.

I really do not like pinyoned birds, it's depressing and sad. I know it can be a varied topic, but my chickens are trimmed only occasionally when they decide to go dim in the head on me. I'd like to allow the conures the ability to fly. Front porch is screened, so a double door system. The side door goes to the connected laundryroom, which also is enclosed and doubly door system. So accidental fly outs would be something that could happen only in a real emergency. We have no kids and rarely have visitors, so another threat avoided.

We are buying a new pots and pans set, old teflon ones will be used as flower pots and critter bowls/waterers. We have those plug in air fresheners, are all of them not safe? We don't use candles, rarely use cleaning products and windows are cleaned of smudges with water. I don't get why people use chemicals to wash windows, you don't need them...

I do have aquariums, all but one are securely closed. The last one almost had a fully closed top, until I accidentally broke the new section of glass when I left it outside...I'll replace it before the bird come home.

We have guinea fowl, one of them thinks it's a rooster and sings in the morning, very annoying. It's not a chicken and it's a hen, but it still wants to sing like a roo. I don't mind it much. So occasional noise is fine, I've read they are usually a calm and quiet bird with morning/dusk squaking and such.

We bought a stainless steel clip bowl, a swing, a snuggie hide out, two toys, perch and a ladder. Do these guys like to have nest houses and if so, which are the right size for them? Not for breeding, but maybe they just like to sit in them or something.

Anything else we should know or think about?
:green2::yellow2:
 
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Yes, the cage is large enough for both. If you buy the birds at different times, then the second bird *should* be quarantined and vet checked before being introduced to the first bird. This means separate cage, toys, perches, food, etc.

Please note, the two species can hybridize, so if you plan on having a green cheek and a sun conure, please make sure they are the same sex!


I think just about anything a chicken can get, a parrot can get as well, although I don't own chickens, nor have I cared for them extensively. It would be a good idea though to clean your hands, and probably change shoes or at least take them off once you come inside from the chickens.


They don't *need* a bird bath, but any kind of dish that they can fit into works! You can also use regular bowls or small dishes meant for humans. Some birds enjoy bathing in sinks, some in the shower/tub, some enjoy spritz.


Actually, a seed based diet for medium/large parrots is *NOT* recommended as a healthy diet. Seeds may be a part of a healthy diet, but should not make up the majority of the diet. Pellets should be used as a base, along with fresh vegetables, some fruits, cooked/sprouted grains and cooked/sprouted *healthy* legumes (not the cheap bean soup mixes), with the occasional egg tossed in. Within reason, parrots can have anything that humans can. Caffeine, chocolate, sugar, salt, avocado, onions, garlic and greasy/oily foods should be avoided. The following thread may give you some ideas, just keep in mind it's an incomplete list because there's a lot of foods out there!

http://www.parrotforums.com/general...afe-fresh-foods-toxic-food-lists-sprouts.html


As far as sleep goes, my birds go to sleep with the sun and wake with the sun. This means that they get anywhere from 9-14 hours of sleep, depending upon the time of year. I personally don't think it's a good idea to keep birds on a strict, unnatural day/night schedule, but that's just me.

If you don't trust your cats and dogs, my suggestion would be to keep your new feathered friend in a room that you can close the door to whenever you aren't in the house to keep the furred and feathered creatures separate. When you have the time, you can see how the furred creatures handle having a feathered one in the home. Do not trust them.

Parrots are rarely ever pinioned, so no worries about that there... but if you want a flighted bird, then you need to find a breeder who will *not* clip a bird for you. Most birds sold in pet stores and from breeders are clipped. Clipping is just a temporary form of stopping the birds from being able to fly. Once the birds go through a molt, they generally regain their flight back. Soemthing to keep in mind, birds who are clipped often behave differently than birds who are flighted.

Yes, air fresheners are dangerous. There are natural alternatives, too. As for teflon, teflon is not the issue, it is PTFE. PTFE is the dangerous ingredient. It is also found in ovens, oven toasters, toasters, the heating element of a dryer, baking pans, silicone pans, possibly coffee pots, etc. If in doubt, contact the manufacturer.


Generally speaking, nests are not good for parrots unless you plan on breeding. Far too many parrots think of a "nest" as a reason to become hormonal, and overly hormonal parrots can develop health and behavioral problems. Not recommended.


I do suggest looking into foraging activities, positive reinforcement and clicker training.
 
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The bird we are hoping to get, has the same snuggie and he/she went into it when we walked away and out of sight from it. That's why we got one of them, it's the green tube-like one, not the tiny triangles or corner ones.

I have no plans on breeding, though, they might. Taking eggs away isn't an issue, it should be like other birds, no? Or will they suffer something if I take away eggs as they are laid?? I'd think it's best to take them, especially if a lone bird happens to go broody, I do not need an 'egg bomb' going off in the house. Such a horrible smell...

Oh, I know you can tell if a farm bird is laying by checking the distance of the pelvic bones. I've done that and it works on many farm birdies. I found a random post elsewhere that you can sex them that way, most people responded that they didn't believe it and such. I'm sure that parrots are similar in this, they also lay eggs after all. But if the bird isn't close to laying maturity, it won't have wider bones, thus considered a male.

Which makes me wonder, do they lay regardless of a male/mating or will they lay once they are mature and it's the right time of year for them??

I don't mind the bird being clipped when we first get it, probably for the best anyway, right?
I'm glad they aren't pinioned as a standard, I know some farm bird/ducks are and that's really sad.

I have no idea what PTFE is and if it's found in propane heaters, I can't do anything other than let the bird freeze or be warm by it. I'll Google PTFE and see if I can find common things that have it that we might own.


Thanks.


Ah, just remembered 'teflon tape', is that the same type of teflon?? We have that over many threaded fittings, many houses do.
 
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Parrots should only lay an egg when they have a mate and are planning to raise chicks. It's hard on their body. Some birds may become egg bound. Because you don't have an avian vet(look all over, some people drive 3+ hours to get to one) you won't have them to safe you if something bad happens.

In captivity parrots can lay eggs because they're hormonal, they masterbate and start producing eggs, and other reasons to. I've seen two females trying to mate(and failing) yet the birds still laid eggs. Parrots are not chickens, it's not healthy for them and you should do all you can to avoid eggs.
 
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Parrots are not chickens, it's not healthy for them and you should do all you can to avoid eggs.

It's also not healthy for chickens to be laying eggs all the time. But people wanted eggs, so they bred it into them and others force them to lay year round with lights.
Mine live free and most are over 2yrs, some lay, some don't and I've never had egg bound issues with my birds.


I found out sexing is only $25, so we'll test the GC when we get it. But I'm searching by personality and healthiness, not by gender.
 
Parrots can get upset about eggs being taken away. If eggs are taken away and you don't do anything to prevent eggs from being laid again, then chances are, the birds are just going to lay more eggs.

Parrots laying eggs usually don't smell that bad. At worse, their droppings will be extra stinky because they hold their droppings in for longer, thus when they do finally go, it's larger and smellier. Otherwise though, there shouldn't be any additional smell.

Pelvic method doesn't exactly work with parrots. A young hen may have about the same width of a male, so it's not really ideal. If you don't have a male and female to compare with, that are mature, this further complicates the matter of trying to sex them. Not all parrots will lay eggs, and some that do may wait 10, 18 or more years before laying their first egg. Hens will lay with or without a mate. As previously mentioned.


If you know what Teflon is, and the dangers of it, then you know what PTFE is. PTFE is the dangerous ingredient. Kleenex is to Tissue as Teflon is to PTFE. It's simply a brand name. An item may not contain Teflon (a nonstick coating with PTFE), but it can still contain PTFE.

I don't know about teflon tape, and I assume it is safe as long as it's not heated above 400. I would assume that it wouldn't be, as it's mostly on pipe fittings, and hot water typically doesn't come out of the tap boiling. Besides, the boiling point is approximately half that.




There is a belief that birds who are always flighted and never clipped when young tend to grow up to be more confident birds who are less likely to freak out about change. You *might* be able to equate it to neutering a dog at a young age vs an adult, and how that effects their behavior as an adult, except a birds flights will grow back. The flip side, is that if you don't do the right training, and you don't have the patience, the birds can be more difficult to work with.
 
I give my GCC a hut to sleep in, she uses it every night and plays in it too. I have read that GCC are one of the few conures that do use tree cavities to sleep in as well as for breeding. Also my hut is made from fabric that is less likely to have loose threads, I still check it anyway, so far all is good the fabric is still intact. Ziva had her wings clipped when we got her, but I let them grow in. She is very outgoing and friendly. For feeding I feed a small amount of seed mix every morning, high quality pellets (Total Organic Pellets is the brand), sprouted seeds, a mix of veggies and fruits and a mix of grains, rice and whole grain and rice pasta. For bathing she has a big stainless steel dish that bolts onto the side of the cage. She also has loads of toys that I rotate every few weeks to keep her busy. There are many ways to raise your bird, you just have to pick what will work best for you and the bird. I like to stay as natural as possible. That is the way I feed and raise all my animals.
 
That cage is a good cage. The best deal,in my opinion. That spoiled green cheek, I am sure, won't mind sharing the space, as that cage is big enough for both. I plan on getting that cage also.
 
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Bought 'em more toys today and some millet, so the cage will be ready as soon as he/she comes home.
 
I have no plans on breeding, though, they might. Taking eggs away isn't an issue, it should be like other birds, no? Or will they suffer something if I take away eggs as they are laid?? I'd think it's best to take them, especially if a lone bird happens to go broody, I do not need an 'egg bomb' going off in the house. Such a horrible smell...


Parrots can lay eggs with or without a mate. Unless stimulated or bonded with the opposite sex, usually they don't. However, if a hen lays an egg, she usually will lay an entire clutch before stopping. In GCCs, they lay 4 or 5 eggs typically.
If you take the egg as she lays, she will keep on laying over and over which is extremely dangerous (calcium depletion). The best is to replace each egg with a dummy one and let her sit on the fake eggs. She will then stop laying after the normal amount for a clutch and will tired of sitting after 3 or 4 weeks. Then you can remove the dummy eggs. If a hen is laying, do increase her calcium level with eggs and egg shells as well as cuttlebone.

Everyone who owns female birds should have a liquid calcium supplement handy (like Calcivet). In the event of egg bounding, it can save her life. Within a few minutes of giving liquid calcium pure by mouth, a hen who is egg bound will usually pass the egg.
 
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Within a few minutes of giving liquid calcium pure by mouth, a hen who is egg bound will usually pass the egg.

Interesting. With land birds/ducks, we're told to sit them in warm water. How can liquid calcium help in the moment of an issue? It has no time to travel and calcium is to harden shells/bones. Not dismissing anything, it just doesn't seem to add up, how does it work?
Instead of grit, we give oyster shell, works as a grit and adds calcium. Or feed dried and crushed egg shells.
 
It may not seem to add up to you, however as a breeder I have seen it work very well. The liquid calcium is the most soluble form of calcium and it rapidly helps to stimulate the oviduct to contract, pushing the egg along. Yes warm water helps as well however you try and keep a Green Cheek Conure sitting in warm water, please video tape it, I'd like to see it.
Realistically you increase heat and moisture (putting bird in brooder on warm moist towels helps) and administer liquid calcium.
 
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So calcium helps muscles to contract, does that work in a similar way in other animals?? That's really interesting.
Yea, chickens don't like to sit in water either, but they don't have beaks to bite nor are they small and frail.
Won't know if this one is a boy or girl until the test kit comes in and all.
 
I know that it help for chicken hens as well. I would imagine it would help with all poultry.
 
On the subject of egg bound hens, beyond what was already suggested, I've heard of applying some mineral oil to the vent feathers, as well as feeding oil directly to the bird. I've seen olive, castor, vegetable, fish/cod liver, sunflower and vegetable oils recommended. Having seen it, the oil pretty much does go "right through the system", and it's not healthy in large amounts.

I don't know if there are any concerns about using oil, as long as you don't overdue it.


Echo, what are your thoughts on using oil? I'm assuming it's not worth it to you, since you have a method that already works well for you.
 
On the subject of egg bound hens, beyond what was already suggested, I've heard of applying some mineral oil to the vent feathers, as well as feeding oil directly to the bird. I've seen olive, castor, vegetable, fish/cod liver, sunflower and vegetable oils recommended. Having seen it, the oil pretty much does go "right through the system", and it's not healthy in large amounts.

I don't know if there are any concerns about using oil, as long as you don't overdue it.


Echo, what are your thoughts on using oil? I'm assuming it's not worth it to you, since you have a method that already works well for you.

I have experienced it from other people's bird and helping them through it, however I thankfully never had that problem with my girls! Of course I'm very mindful of the amount of calcium they receive as well.
I have read about using a lubricant such as oil externally, however I have never had to recommend it. I'm always Leary of oil around feathers and usually the egg is not stuck at the vent area but rather deeper inside. So I can't really comment on oil used for egg binding.
I would be interested to hear about someone using it though and know if it really helps.
 
On the subject of egg bound hens, beyond what was already suggested, I've heard of applying some mineral oil to the vent feathers, as well as feeding oil directly to the bird. I've seen olive, castor, vegetable, fish/cod liver, sunflower and vegetable oils recommended. Having seen it, the oil pretty much does go "right through the system", and it's not healthy in large amounts.

I don't know if there are any concerns about using oil, as long as you don't overdue it.


Echo, what are your thoughts on using oil? I'm assuming it's not worth it to you, since you have a method that already works well for you.
I heard about that oil trick too. So it worked or not?
 
I have experienced it from other people's bird and helping them through it, however I thankfully never had that problem with my girls! Of course I'm very mindful of the amount of calcium they receive as well.
I have read about using a lubricant such as oil externally, however I have never had to recommend it. I'm always Leary of oil around feathers and usually the egg is not stuck at the vent area but rather deeper inside. So I can't really comment on oil used for egg binding.
I would be interested to hear about someone using it though and know if it really helps.
My bird eats calcium from the cuttlebone daily and has roudybrush pellets, but she’s not great about eating calcium rich foods and its winter here. I myself take tiny oil-filled d3 pills, why would that not help birds in this situation, if it allows calcium to be absorbed more?
Im putting bowls of hot water outside of her cage, but next to her perch and waiting for the Calcivet, should I need it. I called everywhere around here and couldn’t find anyone who carried it, nor the big pet stores, not even Amazon. Oh and gave her the eggshells.
 

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