I'm coming in here late to the party, but I see Noodles gave you stellar advice regarding the infertile-egg situation...I see that Ellie laid another infertile-egg, and you already got rid of it after only 1 day because she seemed to get bored with it already, but that probably wasn't the case...A good rule of thumb with a female parrot laying infertile-eggs, is to first remove any "Nest-Box" or other boxes, nests, tents, beds, Huts, etc. immediately and keep them out permanently, as Noodles already stated a "Nest-Box" is not for infertile-eggs, it's for birds who are being bred and need the Nest-Box to raise the chicks, and has nothing at all to do with the laying of the eggs, and only triggers their hormones to lay yet another egg...So never put that Nest-Box back anywhere near Ellie ever again, unless of course you decide to purposely breed her at some point, which I don't advise either.
If you already threw out the second egg that's fine, but if she soon lays yet another egg, that means she has yet to be "knocked-out of breeding season", and that's always your goal when she lays an egg, to knock her body/brain/hormones out of breeding-season, or thinking that it is breeding-season. So if you keep all nests/boxes and nesting-materials out of sight and just allow her to lay eggs on the bottom-grate of her cage from now on. If she happens to lay one in her food dish (which they do sometimes), you should immediately put it down on the bare grate in the bottom of the cage, and then let her lay on it for as long as she wants...There is no "set time-period" or "cycle time" that you need to leave the eggs in, each bird is different and each female will lose-interest in her own-time...What I would advise is that if she does lay yet another egg soon, you let it lay on the bottom grate, let her lay on it, and leave it in there for at least 3-4 days just to make sure she doesn't lay another yet another egg, because what is happening is that she is actually laying eggs from the same clutch AFTER you've already removed any already-laid eggs from the same clutch, and if you do that she won't ever get knocked-out of breeding-season, because she will never feel like she laid an actual 'clutch" that didn't hatch.
So hopefully she's done for now and it's not an issue and won't be again any time soon as long as you've removed all small, dark places that she can get inside of or underneath, both inside of her cage AND outside in your house (such as allowing her to get underneath furniture, behind pillows on the bed or couch, underneath blankets, towels, etc.)....However, is she does lay yet another egg in the next week or so, then realize that it's a whole new clutch of eggs at that point (eggs in the same clutch are typically laid one every 2-3 days), and so what you want to do is to leave the next egg inside of her cage on the bottom grate until she lays a second egg, do not remove it before! The problem is that most-all female birds do not EVER start laying on a clutch of eggs, infertile or fertile, until they lay AT LEAST 2 EGGS, AND OFTEN TIMES NOT UNTIL THERE ARE AT LEAST 3 EGGS LAID! So if you never allow her to properly lay a clutch and then lay on that clutch for as long as she wants to, then she's just going to keep on laying egg after egg after egg. So if she lays one egg and then you throw it out because she's not laying on it, it's simply because she typically won't lay on only 1 egg, it must be at least 2 or 3 eggs. So your IF she does in-fact lay another egg soon (or at any time in the future), is to actually ALLOW HER TO LAY AN ENTIRE CLUTCH OF EGGS, she'll start laying on the clutch full-time after she lays at least 2 eggs, maybe not even until she lays 3 eggs, and then you want to allow her to lay on the clutch of eggs for as long as she wants to (typically once they lay at least 2-3 eggs, then they will only ever stop laying on them and get off of them to poop, or to eat or get a drink, then they'll go right back to laying on the clutch, with typical breaks in laying on them pretty much only lasting up to an hour, usually less....Then once she has laid the entire clutch and has been laying on them, eventually she will realize that they are not going to hatch, she will become bored with them, and one day she will suddenly just stop laying on them and not go back to laying on them...But when you first see her stop laying on the clutch, DO NOT immediately just throw the eggs out, but rather allow the clutch of eggs to lay on the bottom of the cage for a good 1-2 days after she leaves them and stops laying on them, just to make sure she's absolutely done with them and is not going to go back to them. After 1-2 full-days of her not going back to the eggs, THEN just throw them out...And this is what will end the breeding-season she's been in and should totally stop her production of Follicles and Eggs...Hopefully she's completely done for now, but if not don't freak-out, it's normal, it just means she wasn't done laying on the last clutch and has produced more Follicles/Eggs...So this time just wait for her to lay 2-3 eggs and then start laying on them pretty much 24/7, once that happens then you know that once she stops laying on them and stays away from them for at least 1-2 full-days, then she's really done for good for this breeding-season.
***I am not an Eclectus expert by any means at all, nor an Eclectus dietary/nutritional expert, but when I read Ellie's normal daily diet I was a bit concerned due to the regular daily portions of Harrison's pellets/pellets in-general, seed-mix, etc...I'm hoping that one of the Eclectus experts here in the forum come in here to discuss what portion of Ellie's regular, daily diet needs to be fresh Veggies, dark, leafy Greens, and fresh Fruit, and what, if any portion should be pellets, seed-mix, grains, legumes, meat (you mentioned chicken I think, or some other meat and meat bones), etc. The problem with feeding an Eclectus ANY Pellets at all (as well as seed-mixes, grains, legumes, etc., basically anything besides fresh Veggies, Greens, and Fruit) is exactly what Scott already spoke about, they have an extremely long Intestinal Tract which causes the over-absorption of nutrients, and this typically results in Neurological Issues, the most-common one being "Toe-Tapping"; there are a host of scary Neurological signs/symptoms that they display like this, as well as developing Feather-Destructive Behaviors like Plucking and Self-Mutilation, simply because of their diets containing these types of foods, either in portions that are too large, in a frequency that is too often, or in some cases eating them at all. So I'm hoping that some of the very experienced Eclectus owners here who have dealt with both Neurological and Feather-Destructive issues with their own Eclectus' and that were resolved by simply eliminating some things from their diets completely, limiting some things, and increasing the amounts of other things, will swing by here and give some advice on the "Do's and Don't's" of an Eclectus diet, because once these things start, it's typically very frustrating to get them to stop...And as Scott mentioned already, a lot of the Parrot-Food companies totally disregard the fact that Eclectus' just should not eat pellets of any kind, and some of them not only list Eclectus' on their bags of pellets and show pictures of them on their bags of pellets, but some of them actually manufacture pellets that are supposed to be made specifically for an Eclectus, which is totally counter-intuitive, especially when you read the list of ingredients in those pellets...
I know for Cairo, walks always help him when he's going through a tough time. Hope Ellie will keep improving <3
