Is my baby Alexendrine healthy?

[Gautamk]

Please tell me if my pair of baby Alexendrine is healthy or not, they are not active like a baby should be.
I feeding them:
Gram pulse keeping overnight in water then making paste of it in mixer grinder, then feeding them by syringe.
I also give him medicines: Himalaya Live 52 (for lever functions) & Neopeptine 3 drops ( for increasing their hunger)
(I keep them in cage, {you can see the cage behind them)
Environmental temperature: 30-35° celcius
Please find the video:
[ame="https://youtu.be/LMLD09KKB_U"]https://youtu.be/LMLD09KKB_U[/ame]

 

[Cardinal]

I hope you are aware that Alexandrines are illegal to keep in India . Check this

https://m.hindustantimes.com/india-...4i56lTLqcXQ25a9ICQr57KtABIHMqsBjNO_4nyxrlqI78

 

[Kiwibird]

Oh dear. I hope there is some kind of language barrier and I’m misunderstanding, because you shouldn’t be giving them any kind of supplements or medications (or whatever those things are your giving them) unless explicitly instructed by a vet. The only thing they should be getting is hand feeding formula made specifically for baby parrots. That will contain all the nutrition they need until they begin to eat on their own.

Please refer to this thread for hand feeding instructions and don’t stop reading because of the harsh tone. Take it as an educational opportunity. The more people who are informed, the less demand there will be in countries where selling such young birds is still common, meaning sellers will eventually stop:

http://www.parrotforums.com/breeding-raising-parrots/74363-so-you-bought-unweaned-baby.html

 

[EllenD]

Okay, first of all I'm sorry that you got 2 Alex's that were not weaned, but you have all kinds of problems going on here, not your fault as you probably aren't familiar with raising such a young baby parrot. But they do not have all of their outer feathering, so if you are actually keeping both of them in a Brooder of some sort that is constantly at an ambient temperature between 30-35 degrees C (~86-91 degrees F), then that's a good thing, but it's a bit on the hot side, as once they have all of their down feathers grown-in but don't yet have all of their outer feathers yet, they should be kept inside of some kind of Brooder that keeps their ambient/air temperature constantly around 80-85 degrees F, so you need to lower the temperature inside the Brooder they are being kept in by about 3-5 degrees...They need to be kept inside of some type of "Brooder" that has BOTH A "HOT -END" AND A "COOL-END"...The hot-end is the end that needs to be CONSTANTLY around 80-85 degrees F, so about 3-5 degrees cooler than you' have them in now, and it needs to stay at that temperature 24 hours a day, all the time, until ALL of their outer feathers grow completely in...BUT IT ALSO NEEDS TO HAVE A SIDE/END THAT IS NOT OVER/UNDER THE HEAT AT ALL, IS NOT COVERED BY ANYTHING, AND THAT THEY ALWAYS HAVE ACCESS TO WHENEVER THEY GET TOO WARM. Usually a homemade-Brooder is made out of some kind of box/container, with the back-half of it sitting on top of an adjustable heating-pad and that is also covered with a towel or blanket to keep the heat in and the ambient temperature of that back-end constantly at the correct temperature range...And then the front-half of the box is not sitting on top of the heating-pad and is not covered with anything, so the birds have the option to cool down...

As soon as ALL of their outer feathers grow-in completely, that's when you need to move them out of the Brooder/off of the heat, and into their Weaning/Starter Cage...For an Alex this happens typically when they are between 6-7 weeks old, right around the same time you need to start Abundance-Weaning them...So you're doing well with the ambient temperature, just drop it down about 3 degrees or so in the hot-side/end...Also, this is extremely important and hopefully this has been the way they've been kept since they were hatched/put in the Brooder with you, but you need to have around 1 to 1 1/2 inches of some type of bird-safe bedding in the bottom of the Brooder at all times, and change the soiled bedding daily...This is to keep them from becoming Splayed-Legged as their leg muscles and bones grow. If they aren't kept on some type of thick layer of bedding to keep their legs together while they're growing, their legs with become Splayed, and once they finish growing it's irreversible...So make sure you've got a nice thick layer of either shredded paper bedding, or some type of wood-chip bedding in the bottom of the entire Brooder at all times from now on until they go into their first Weaning/Starter Cage (NOT CEDAR OR ANY OTHER FRAGRANT WOOD-CHIPS)

****They both look very thin to me, and this is most-likely due to what you've been feeding them as a formula...First of all, stop putting all the supplements into what you are feeding the, it's not only unnecessary, it can make them extremely sick and even kill them....The ONLY supplement that should EVER be added to a baby-bird handfeeding -formula is a Probiotic Supplement with or without added Digestive Enzymes, and that's it! THEY DON'T NEED ANY TYPE OF MEDICATIONS, NO APPETITE STIMULANTS, OR ANYTHING ELSE!!! YOU'RE ACTUALLY MAKING THEIR APPETITES LESSEN WITH ALL THAT STUFF AND IT'S ONLY GOING TO MAKE THEM SICK OR WORSE!!! SO PLEASE STOP ADDING ANY OF THOSE THINGS THAT YOU ARE ADDING TO THEIR FORMULA, IT'S JUST NOT NECESSARY, IT'S DOING NO GOOD AT ALL AND ACTUALLY HARMING THEM!

***The formula you've been feeding them is totally inadequate in it's amount of Protein, Fat, Calories, Vitamins, Minerals, and Amino Acids/Digestive Enzymes!!! You just cannot feed a rapidly growing, rapidly developing baby parrot nothing but boiled "Pulses" mushed up and mixed with water, as it's not providing them with anything that they need to properly grow, develop, and for that matter form a working immune-system...They are getting basically NO PROTEIN AT ALL, NO FAT AT ALL (and baby birds need LOTS AND LOTS OF FAT!), AND BASICALLY NONE OF THE VITAMINS OR MINERALS THAT THEY NEED...And that is why they both look extremely small, thin, and just generally unhealthy looking, because they are absolutely MALNOURISHED and UNDERNOURISHED!!!! And no, you cannot just add an Avian Vitamin supplement to the boiled pulses/grains and make it okay, because #1 They still won't be getting anywhere near enough Protein, Fat, Calories, etc., and #2 The body doesn't absorb Vitamins and Minerals in supplement/pill form like it does from actual food sources that they eat. Most Vitamins and Minerals that they ingest in supplement/pill/powder form, basically in an artificial form that is added to their food, they just simply excrete out in their feces and urates...So again, adding supplements and "medications"? is not adequate, won't help them, and is only going to make them worse (have no idea why you are giving them medications at all, this will make them sick and lose their appetites, and possibly result in a Fungal/Yeast infection throughout their Intestines, Stomach, Crop, etc. by killing-off all of the beneficial-bacteria that is supposed to be living throughout their GI Tracts to keep Fungi/Yeast from developing)...

You need to buy/order online a commercially-sold baby-bird handfeeding formula and start feeding them that ASAP, and make sure that you're offering them enough hand-feedings of it each day...At their age they should be getting 4-5 hand-feedings of a proper hand-feeding formula every single day, starting around 6-7 in the morning with their first feeding, then the next between 10-11 in the morning, then the next between 2-3 in the afternoon, then another between 6-7 in the evening, and then the last feeding of the day between 9-10 at night...And you decide the time you feed them (whether at 10 or at 11, whether at 2 or at 3, etc.) by whether or not their Crop is almost empty; their Crops should be almost empty but still have a bit of formula from their last feeding in them when you feed them their next hand-feeding, with the only time their Crop totally being empty when you feed them being the first one in the morning because they go overnight without eating...

***Also, the hand-feeding formula you are feeding them must ALWAYS be between 104 degrees F and 110 degrees F (between 40 degrees C and 43.3 degrees C), and not even 1 degree lower or higher!!! This is even more important that the ambient/air temperature you're keeping them in, because if the formula you are feeding them is even 1 degree below 104 degrees F (40 degrees C) they will develop a Fungal/Yeast infection inside of their Crops and this will rapidly turn into "Slow-Crop" and then "Crop-Stasis", and they will die (happens quite often); and if the formula is even 1 degree hotter than 110 degrees F (43.3 degrees C), it will burn their Crops and cause a horrible Bacterial infection, with the only treatment being surgery to cut-out the burned area of their Crop and letting it heal from the inside out, along with heavy-duty antibiotics...Usually unweaned-babies like this die from the Fungal/Yeast infections because their formula is far too cold because the people feeding them don't use a candy/cooking thermometer to make sure the formula temperature range is correct at all times while they're feeding them, and that they re-heat water and add it to the already-mixed formula when the temperature drops below 40 degrees C during a feeding...So if you've not been using a cooking thermometer to make sure the temperature of their formula is within that temperature range, they may very well already have Yeast infections, and you need to start doing this immediately...

Most important is that you either find a proper, commercial hand-feeding formula for baby birds in a store somewhere, or you order it online...Usually people are able to order Kaytee Exact hand-feeding formula online, regardless of where they live in the world. We get a lot of people from the Middle-East, Eastern Europe, India, etc. with unweaned, baby Alexandrines and they always seem to be able to order Kaytee Exact hand-feeding formula online and get it quickly...There are others as well, Roudybush makes one, etc. If you have a choice of Kaytee Exact formula between the regular and the "High-Fat" kind, you need the "High-Fat" kind at this point to start putting some weight on your birds...This is not optional, they are not going to do well at all if you keep feeding them what you are...And NO, YOU CANNOT FEED THEM ANY TYPE OF HUMAN-BABY FORMULA OR CEREAL, SUCH AS "CERELAC" OR "SIMILAC"!!! IT WILL KILL THEM! A lot of people in your situation get a hold of human baby cereals and formulas, usually it's Cerelac they find, and they end-up killing their birds because they all have a ton of extra, added Iron in them, because humans need lots of Iron, BUT birds cannot process much Iron in their diets at all, and if they ingest too much Iron they develop a condition called "Iron Storage Disease/Syndrome", and it kills them without medical-intervention to lower their Iron levels. So you must find a proper baby bird handfeeding formula ASAP...