I Love Amazons - An On-Going Journey!

[SailBoat]

Candles and Parrots!

Over the past many months, I have noted that time and time again, members continually question whether Candles and the burning of ‘Oils’ is safe for Parrots. It seems with every new safe candle or oil technology that comes to the market or is rediscovered drive questions of their use around or for their Parrots.

This segment targets addressing the foundation of why burning anything in the area around a Parrot is just dangerous! Enjoy!

 

[SailBoat]

Continued from above.


Candles and Parrots!

By: Steven (SailBoat), December 2016

Aaaah, the romance of candles burning above a well set and served dinner. What a special scent they can add to develop that special mood, that moment to remember, that night your Parrot died.

But hey, candles have served us so well in providing light, mood and of course covering, well you know, covering those other aromas. The question of burning candles and the safety of Parrots have been well fought-over for as long as both have occupied the same home. And since candles commonly occupied our homes first, Parrots have had a tough battle fighting for their own needs.

Candles have come a long way and so have the places that we have chosen to burn them. In the “Good Old Days” the chemical stew that made up candles was highly toxic, save the relative openness of the general living quarters of the past, the vast majority of that toxic stew quickly left the quarters. As construction vastly improved, the rate in which our quarters (homes) exchanged air diminished just as vastly. Construction has improved to such a point that specific new homes are subject to a build-up of toxic gases and can require very specialized air exchange systems to remove the toxic gases.

Since, the majority of us do not live in a recently built, high tech home, most of us experience a fairly rapid (in the Winter, a frightening) rate of air exchange. As a result, most homes can quickly move most of the less then positive chemicals out and a way. However, there is a group of chemicals that are ‘heaver than air’ and this group will congregate at the floor level and is exchanged at a very slow rate. If you have a newer home, your exchange rate will be much slower and you should take care that toxic gasses are not given a chance to build-up.

The question of burning candles and having Parrots in the same house is one of those damn if you do, damn if you don’t question to address. The fact is that it all comes down to the chemical composition, selection, positioning, volume (number), confinement, ventilation, and locations, location, location of the candle. In addition, there is the health and physical sensitivity of the owner(s), guest(s), pet(s) and the Parrot’s respiratory system, remembering that a Parrot’s respiratory system is much more sensitive than that of Mammals.

Environmental and health concerns for Humans have brought about a growing industry of ‘safe’ candles, which are 100% natural (soy and vegetable based) with 100% cotton wicks (specifications of only one of several types of ‘safe’ candle). Even with these ‘safe’ candles, the purchaser must be carefully of the scent; rarely does this ‘safe’ group or any candle group properly define the chemical composition of the fragrance.

Whether an old fashion or a ‘safe’ candle, once the candle begins to burn, all the prior chemical structures begin to change as heat and flame do their part, forever altering the original chemical mix. Regardless of the original chemicals, ‘safe’ or otherwise classified, the process of burning will create deadly gases, including Carbon Monoxide. Because of the broad combinations and variations of chemical mixes, candle to candle, the end result will vary in the number and intensity of the less then positive chemical stew produced. The point is; a toxic chemical stew is produced.

That rare candle, placed with consideration of one’s family, visitor(s), pet(s) and especially your Parrot(s) could be of concern during one’s short dinner or like short special event. However, a candle castle will be a death trap for nearly everyone. Remember, candles are the leading, year-around cause of house fires. If you are using candles to mask basic odor problems, it is much safer to target the root cause than to expose your loved ones to the likelihood of a fire!

One Ready Big Basic: Feathers Burn Rapidly!

The really important thing is - first and foremost; the open flame! As the statement above so clearly states: Feather's Burn Rapidly!

Because there are so many variables, home-to-home, apartment-to-apartment and individual-to-individual, Human /Parrot alike, it is nearly impossible to state that a single candle will cause a serious problem.

The very best, we as caring adults can do, is to be very aware of specific problems faced by all of our family members. The health problems /concerns of one family member should be a concern of everyone. An elderly Parrot, one that has specific health problems or is currently ill can be seriously affect by the increased amount of Carbon Monoxide and other chemicals that result from 'burning' candles.

Can a single lit candle kill your Parrot, more then likely not! But a poorly placed single candle can cause a serious and/or deadly event. It becomes each of our responsibility to judge the likely outcome and choose wisely.

Lead Poisoning and Candles:

A little-known source of Lead is the wicks in some long /slow burning candles. A consumer interest group in Houston, Texas, tested candles to see if they created any air pollutions problems. In the course of their testing, the group discovered some long-lasting (slow burning) candles with Lead in their wicks emit Lead levels that are high enough to harm children. If long-lasing (slow burning) candles in a Parrot owner’s home have silver threads visible in the wick, they may contain Lead and should not be burned around a Companion Parrot and/or children. For the safety of everyone, they should be trashed safely.

Scented Candles:

Candles like perfumes have continue to expand they scent range. In specialty shops, high-end store, all the way to discount stores - a seemly endless array of scents are available. As we know, special scent can add greatly to developing that special mood, that moment to remember. However, within this array of scents are real dangers. The majority of those scents and perfumes can contain a mixture of chemicals that are down right dangerous to sensitive although healthy adults, let alone children, elderly, those with Lung Ailments and of course, our Parrots. Unlike many other areas in our life, there very limited, too no controls over scents. Worst, there is even fewer requirements regarding listing the chemicals that make-up a specific scent. Whether the scent is overwhelming or a quiet background aroma, the toxic mix that develops from burning candles can become very dangerous.

Adding to the above, the heating /burning of aroma (scented) ‘oils’ present the same problems as state regarding candles!


As we begin this special time of year, consider whether candies will add to the joy or result in a tragedy. It is the choices that we make that will result in yet another joyful event or …

 

[GaleriaGila]

Sailboat, thank you. I've just given up on candles and scents. This post is a great summary of 'WHY?'!

 

[msdeb]

Continued from above.


Candles and Parrots!

By: Steven (SailBoat), December 2016

Aaaah, the romance of candles burning above a well set and served dinner. What a special scent they can add to develop that special mood, that moment to remember, that night your Parrot died.

But hey, candles have served us so well in providing light, mood and of course covering, well you know, covering those other aromas. The question of burning candles and the safety of Parrots have been well fought-over for as long as both have occupied the same home. And since candles commonly occupied our homes first, Parrots have had a tough battle fighting for their own needs.

Candles have come a long way and so have the places that we have chosen to burn them. In the “Good Old Days” the chemical stew that made up candles was highly toxic, save the relative openness of the general living quarters of the past, the vast majority of that toxic stew quickly left the quarters. As construction vastly improved, the rate in which our quarters (homes) exchanged air diminished just as vastly. Construction has improved to such a point that specific new homes are subject to a build-up of toxic gases and can require very specialized air exchange systems to remove the toxic gases.

Since, the majority of us do not live in a recently built, high tech home, most of us experience a fairly rapid (in the Winter, a frightening) rate of air exchange. As a result, most homes can quickly move most of the less then positive chemicals out and a way. However, there is a group of chemicals that are ‘heaver than air’ and this group will congregate at the floor level and is exchanged at a very slow rate. If you have a newer home, your exchange rate will be much slower and you should take care that toxic gasses are not given a chance to build-up.

The question of burning candles and having Parrots in the same house is one of those damn if you do, damn if you don’t question to address. The fact is that it all comes down to the chemical composition, selection, positioning, volume (number), confinement, ventilation, and locations, location, location of the candle. In addition, there is the health and physical sensitivity of the owner(s), guest(s), pet(s) and the Parrot’s respiratory system, remembering that a Parrot’s respiratory system is much more sensitive than that of Mammals.

Environmental and health concerns for Humans have brought about a growing industry of ‘safe’ candles, which are 100% natural (soy and vegetable based) with 100% cotton wicks (specifications of only one of several types of ‘safe’ candle). Even with these ‘safe’ candles, the purchaser must be carefully of the scent; rarely does this ‘safe’ group or any candle group properly define the chemical composition of the fragrance.

Whether an old fashion or a ‘safe’ candle, once the candle begins to burn, all the prior chemical structures begin to change as heat and flame do their part, forever altering the original chemical mix. Regardless of the original chemicals, ‘safe’ or otherwise classified, the process of burning will create deadly gases, including Carbon Monoxide. Because of the broad combinations and variations of chemical mixes, candle to candle, the end result will vary in the number and intensity of the less then positive chemical stew produced. The point is; a toxic chemical stew is produced.

That rare candle, placed with consideration of one’s family, visitor(s), pet(s) and especially your Parrot(s) could be of concern during one’s short dinner or like short special event. However, a candle castle will be a death trap for nearly everyone. Remember, candles are the leading, year-around cause of house fires. If you are using candles to mask basic odor problems, it is much safer to target the root cause than to expose your loved ones to the likelihood of a fire!

One Ready Big Basic: Feathers Burn Rapidly!

The really important thing is - first and foremost; the open flame! As the statement above so clearly states: Feather's Burn Rapidly!

Because there are so many variables, home-to-home, apartment-to-apartment and individual-to-individual, Human /Parrot alike, it is nearly impossible to state that a single candle will cause a serious problem.

The very best, we as caring adults can do, is to be very aware of specific problems faced by all of our family members. The health problems /concerns of one family member should be a concern of everyone. An elderly Parrot, one that has specific health problems or is currently ill can be seriously affect by the increased amount of Carbon Monoxide and other chemicals that result from 'burning' candles.

Can a single lit candle kill your Parrot, more then likely not! But a poorly placed single candle can cause a serious and/or deadly event. It becomes each of our responsibility to judge the likely outcome and choose wisely.

Lead Poisoning and Candles:

A little-known source of Lead is the wicks in some long /slow burning candles. A consumer interest group in Houston, Texas, tested candles to see if they created any air pollutions problems. In the course of their testing, the group discovered some long-lasting (slow burning) candles with Lead in their wicks emit Lead levels that are high enough to harm children. If long-lasing (slow burning) candles in a Parrot owner’s home have silver threads visible in the wick, they may contain Lead and should not be burned around a Companion Parrot and/or children. For the safety of everyone, they should be trashed safely.

Scented Candles:

Candles like perfumes have continue to expand they scent range. In specialty shops, high-end store, all the way to discount stores - a seemly endless array of scents are available. As we know, special scent can add greatly to developing that special mood, that moment to remember. However, within this array of scents are real dangers. The majority of those scents and perfumes can contain a mixture of chemicals that are down right dangerous to sensitive although healthy adults, let alone children, elderly, those with Lung Ailments and of course, our Parrots. Unlike many other areas in our life, there very limited, too no controls over scents. Worst, there is even fewer requirements regarding listing the chemicals that make-up a specific scent. Whether the scent is overwhelming or a quiet background aroma, the toxic mix that develops from burning candles can become very dangerous.

Adding to the above, the heating /burning of aroma (scented) ‘oils’ present the same problems as state regarding candles!


As we begin this special time of year, consider whether candies will add to the joy or result in a tragedy. It is the choices that we make that will result in yet another joyful event or …

Flameless, battery operated candles from the dollar store are in my votive holders and I have an aversion to so many "natural" scents so I just use fresh flowers and herbs to scent the air (if needed). Of course everything is kept out of Charlie's immediate reach because he does enjoy shredding my stuff. But I do have to watch my houseplants because some ARE harmful to birds if chewed or ingested. I have found that having my home conform to bird safe actually keeps me healthier in many ways (less chemicals and possible toxins) I do wonder about things that I can't control like the weather. If, during the winter, we have a snow/ice event and we lose power in our all-electric home, how will I keep us all from freezing? If I have a well ventilated fireplace do you think that would work? My place is an older, local stone and wood home built almost a hundred years ago. The floor has been re-leveled and all the windows were replaced with super efficient glass. The walls are about 10 inches thick so it doesn't rapidly change temperatures and keeping it warm or cool doesn't require much energy (great for the electric bill) The question came up the other day during a weather forecast and my fella and I are mulling over possible solutions.

 

[Kentuckienne]

There aren't many ways to heat an all-electric home without electricity. We also have power outages from time to time.

We have a portable gas-powered generator that connect to the propane line and plugs in via a special transfer switch at the main panel. It can power the essentials: some lights, Internet modem, tv, fridge, freezer, water pump, furnace blower (propane furnace). Cooktop is propane, so we survive outage. We live far enough out that we don't have to worry about the generator being stolen. We use a wood stove for the main source of heat anyway, and it is well sealed and doesn't generate smoke. There is a carbon monoxide detector and we keep birdie away from the stove.

If you can install a stand-by generator - kind of depends on how many outage you have when thinking if it's worth it - that's the easiest and safest. Portable generator that run on gas are very handy, but be sure to run it outside only, not in a garage or enclosed space, and maybe chain it up to prevent theft. You mentioned you have a fireplace - those aren't very efficient, but a wood stove insert will look quite nice and put a ton of heat into the space.

Do not use one of the portable kerosene heaters inside. I would consider using one if I had no birds and if the monoxide detector was nearby and it was an emergency, but they could likely kill a bird as they create many gaseous evils.

 

[GaleriaGila]

Thanks, Kentuckienne... we have a similar solution, kinda.
We have a good, safe fireplace, lots of wood. If that's not enough,
I have a relative with a generator. She would have 4 guests (my ol' man and his dog, and yours truly and the Rb). She's not far away. Although she might MOVE far away if we ever actually visited ourselves upon her.

 

[texsize]

A few years ago in winter there was a bad wind storm. lots of people were in blackout conditions for 10 days or more. Electric company blamed cost cutting measures for lack of staff to fix in a timely manner.

Made me think what would have happened to my birds if the power outage was in my area. I got a generator and a plug-in electric heater.
I don't think you can count on the infrastructure like you use to.
keep water, food, and a means of heating or even cooling if necessary.
Living in quake prone SoCal it just common sense.

 

[SailBoat]

Getting Your Amazon More Active!

The bored, non-active and/or sedimentary Amazon can be the source of any number of behavior and/or health problems! Once you have elected to get your Amazon more active, it becomes important for both of you to know what will get the best results for the effort put into it!

As a means of pulling together the needs of a healthy /happy Amazon, we have looked at the Correct Food For an Amazon, Re-Fledging an Adult Amazon and Re-Starting a Shutdown Amazon. As part of this Segment, I take pieces from the above Segments and bring them together with additional information in a major push to Getting Your Amazon More Active!

Enjoy!



This Segment Continues as part of the Following Post!

 

[SailBoat]

Getting Your Amazon More Active!

By: Steven (SailBoat), December 2016


As many of you know, I work with Older and/or Much sicker Amazons than most of the members here. That does not make me any smarter or odder, only more observant, which can have us at our Avian Vet more often. Our goal is based around targeting a deep want to extend our time with each Amazon. This has a profound affect on what I talk about when asked about the needs of older Parrots and/or Parrots that are very ill, and, what I do to ‘hopefully’ obtain that longer time with them.

Today, ever more Avian Vets are becoming more assertive in recommending what has in the past been reserved for ‘Sick /Older’ Parrot level of examinations for much young Parrots. To a point, that they are recommended it for mid to larger Parrots in their early twenties, i.e.… to undergo this level of examination and testing. In addition to age, poor diet and, the fact that the Parrot’s activity level maybe lower is now also seen as a concerning! With the understanding that a Parrot just entering middle age and is more selective in their activities, is note worthy, since they should still be a hand full of energy when they turn it on. Playtime should be more active and involved. To a level that amping up the activity level when the two of you are together is more a norm. If not, you should be pushing your Avian Vet for a more detailed examination!

This amping up, (more active interaction), ‘Activity Level’ will also serve (in the Parrot’s mind) to be more time with you! Thus both of you win with what is correctly understood to be far more active time with you!

Ok, Lets Stop for a Minute Here: Reality Check My Fellow Members! If your Amazon continues to live a very relaxed life style, you will likely be contributing to shortening your Amazon’s life with you! I know you want your Amazons to be with you for as long as possible! Remember, I fight for every additional hour I can get with the Amazons that come to us. I do not want you to come to that Very Hard Cold Wall when you find you are fighting for every additional hour you can get with your Amazon! At least not for a very long time!

My last Amazon, died at 27 years old of Heart Failure! His life story was much like many Companion Amazons, by allowed to live a far too sedimentary life style. He had been with us for all most ten years prior to our loosing him. At age 22, we learned his Heart was failing. With very specific guidelines from our AV, we worked with him daily to retain what health he had. This is when I learned the need to hear his heart rate and what was a safe rate and what was not.

Long story short! Active one-on-one time with your Amazon needs to be more engaging, more in your face, more fun time, and far more activities around the house. Keep your Amazon moving and active!

Very important: Your Next yearly (yes, I did say yearly) AV visits needs to target your Amazon’s ‘ability' to be far more active! Can your Amazon, Be More Active! You will likely need to schedule a building-up of activities, not everything (100%) on the first day. That could be deadly! So, it’s like a 5% increase the first couple of weeks, etc...

Not trying to scare anyone! My only want is for you and Amazon to be a 'Thing' for a very long time!

The largest set of Muscles in a Parrot’s Body is the Chest Muscles that drive the Wings. ANY active flapping on the Wings will greatly increase the Heart and activate the Lungs (Air-Sacks) rate, which will drive your Parrot’s full system forcing enriched blood into the Flight Muscles and also to every part of the Body. This action displaces natural toxins in the Flight Muscles and far reaches of the Body itself and replaces them with the enriched blood. This simulation will rapidly bring the Parrots Heart rate up to an active level.

To get your Parrot to flap its Wings, use the dropped hand method, which commonly induces Wing flapping. If you have never done this, practice over a bed so that if your Parrot attempts to fly, he will land on a soft surface.

Note: Do this no more than 'once' per day until you have a clear release from your AV. Just like many of us ‘older’ members, a short walk is OK, until our Doctors give us an approval for more! Remember, you do not want to take your Parrot to a place that has its Heart Racing!!!

It will be very important prior to getting too far into the process of getting your Parrot more active to have your Avian Vet complete a detail examination of Amazon’s ability to become far more active. It will be very important to tell your AV that the reason for your visit is to assure that your Parrot is in fact healthy enough to take on such an increase in activity!

Please tell your AV that you plan to work at Re-Fledging your Parrot to a level that he can develop lift even with his wings trimmed. This will define an activity level that you are looking at in the near future. You may want to address that at some point in the future (a couple or more years) you may even consider allowing your Parrot to become a Flier. Whether you chose too or not is not the point right now! What you do want to know is if your Parrot’s Heart and Air Sacks can support extensive Wing flapping to a level of developing lift (i.e. can lift you hand while perched on it). At some future point, a further examination of your Parrot’s health will be needed to determine if fully Flighted is even possible.


This Segment Continues as part of the Following Post!

 

[SailBoat]

PLEASE, ensure that your AV allows you to 'HEAR' your Amazon’s Heart Rate!!! Have you're AV define what is a good ‘at rest’ rate, ‘an active’ rate and a dangerous rate! FYI: A Parrots Heart Rate is near impossible to count at a rested state. So, what you are after is a 'feeling' for what a rested rate sounds like! The more you hear your Parrot's Heart rate, the more this all makes sense.

In a past Post, I asked a fellow member if their Parrot would allow them to place his chest against your ear? This will allow you to, at home, check your Parrot’s Heart Rate. I am a strong believer in a Parrot Owner training their Parrot to allow this interaction!

First, YES, I am fixated in having Parrots be able to fly! That stated and now placed aside. What I really want you to understand is that having your Parrot be able too activity Wing Flap to a level of developing enough energy to physically lift your hand with your Amazon perched on it is the goal. Please know that this is the goal to achieve over the next six months, possible even longer. NOT ON DAY ONE!

Why this specific activity in place of so many other activities?

1. Parrots are designed to fly!!! Every part of their being is near or fully framed around the ability of flying! A couple of minutes of active Wing Flapping will generate far more demand (energy production) than a weeks worth of walking about your home and up and down their cage!

2. This type of workout will with force, flow enriched blood into your Parrot’s Wing Driving Muscles and at the same time out to every part of your Parrot’s full Body. This level of flow will wash from the Wing Muscles, the natural toxins that build-up with in those muscles and also throughout your Parrot's entire body! This healthy wash of the Body is a positive result of causing nothing more that active flapping of his Wings!

Read with understanding, i.e. read it aloud with your Amazon either on you or next to you, the following Segments of the I Love Amazons.... Thread (Found at the top of the Amazon Forum)!

First: Re-Starting a Shutdown Amazon! (Page: 4)
Second: Re-Fledging an Adult Amazon! (Page: 4)

Please remember that prior to getting your Amazon too activity flap his Wings, you MUST see your AV to determine his health prior to take on this level of physical demand. Remember, that we start with just a few flaps and build with time and APPROVAL FROM YOUR AV!!!

I can tell you from many years of ‘Buying One Hour At A Time,’ of additional lifetime with my Amazons that it is all worth it. Your Amazon will be a far more active and involved Amazon!

Start Slow, and build once you have your AV's approval!


I am always open to questions and a push, if needed!

 

[Taw5106]

Buddy and I love your recognition! Of course Buddy is chewing on a toy but he recognizes, lol. Beautifully said!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[SailBoat]

Buddy and I love your recognition! Of course Buddy is chewing on a toy but he recognizes, lol. Beautifully said!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Truly enjoy your Treads regarding Buddy and his activities. And, thank-you and Buddy for the comments. The Joy of being Owned by Amazons can only be understood by being 'So Owned!'

May You and your Flock Have a Very Merry Christmas!

Steven (SailBoat),
Oh, Julio say's Hi! (like just said it!) Its why I Love Amazons!

 

[SailBoat]

Rescuing Amazons Is Not For The Faint-of-Heart!
And, How to Use a ‘Parrot Handbook!’

There are a number of Parrot Books available. Many are re-writes of other Authors with the new writer’s twist on it and some are just plain wrong and/or serious out of day in their approaches based on our growth and understanding of Parrots today, which is supported by Studies and/or recommended by the Association of Avian Vets (AAV). So with that in mind I will be including and using Sally Blanchard’s Companion Parrot Handbook, which is a leading tool in understanding and working with Parrots.

Since it is common for Parrot owner’s to consult when their Amazon is just not responding to their efforts, I believe it would be worth stepping through a well written ‘Parrot Handbook’ as a method of both teaching and encouraging the new owner of an Pet Store or Rescue Centre purchased Amazon to use such a tool! You will find that the last half of this Segment is devoted to that effort.

Welcome to this Segment as we combined a bit of my experiences and a ‘Parrot Handbook’ too soften the reality of Rescuing, a Rescued Amazon! – Enjoy!

 

[SailBoat]

Continued from above:


Rescuing Amazons Is Not For The Faint-of-Heart!
And, How to Use a ‘Parrot Handbook!’

By: Steven (SailBoat), December 2016

Rescuing an Amazon is not for the faint-of-heart, especially a Parrot that has suffered the misery of far too many Pet Stores, Rescue Centre, and/or short-term homes.

As part of the Selection of a Parrot, although a sad statement, requires insight on seeing /watching the methods, positive or more often harmful, used to encourage or force the Amazon out of the way to provide the basics like food, water and general cage cleaning will be very important to remember as you’re target winning this Amazon’s confidents over the weeks, months and years ahead. Can a Pet Store or Rescue Centre selection become a loving and trusting member of your flock – Yes! Will it happen tomorrow – Sometimes, but more commonly: No!

About Twenty years ago, we lost our sweet (LCA) Cleo. For the cost of a used floor-stand perch, a tiny cage, a bag of seed and a promise to never bring her back, I became an owner of an Amazon! At an estimated age of twenty-six, she came into our lives and her place still to this day resounds with a heart-aching echo. Nearly nude and with no want for human interaction of any kind, it was a very cold /hard place to start from. Twenty years is a long time and it is near impossible to remember that painful first year with my finger’s reddens from her hard bites as we worked daily on Step-Up. We did not have Sally Blanchard’s or Liz Wilson’s written insights back then, but we did have a love for that weird looking ‘can opener’ on a pair of skinny bare legs. She founded my belief in: Never Give-Up on an Amazon, and because of her, I promise you that loving rewards will fill a lifetime of memories.

Understanding that today, we are light years ahead of where our home’s knowledge based started from, and based on the starting description of my first rescue, I have worked with over the years with each new arrival, and enjoyed their Loving Joys of a forever home; each had a better place to start from as we are willing to start from a very simple place: “It is Never the Fault of the Amazon! It is Always the Fault of the Human! By Starting At this Point of Understanding, we Humans will more quickly see and correct our methods. Commonly, people can get their Amazon to step-up, but they do not have the level of Trust that most young Parrots have with their new owners to allow the Human to touch their heads, etc. Amazon’s are prey – things eat them in the wild, and having something surrounding their head (think snake) requires a great deal of Trust to allow.

The Secret is to ‘Slow Down’ and Stop measuring success by what you see other people doing with their Parrots. Yes, its hard not to envy those individuals who’s Parrots are well socialized and response with near perfect cadence. It can be hard to remember that rescue Amazon has only been with you for a very short few months and the major steps that have already slowly developed over that short time period. Know that your new rescue Amazon can easily live another twenty to-forty years and if you stay committed and keep working with her, soon you will not remember the physical and mental pain of being bitten because it has been replaced with a Trusting, Loving Interaction beyond what you could wish for at this moment.

Amazons have been part of my life for over Forty years and I have made nearly every error that can be made in damaging that all-important Trust Bond. The Amazon’s in my life have always clearly let me know when I was wrong and have rewarded me well when I am doing it right. I can assure you that your rescue Amazon is far more mentally active then most of the people that surround you as you drive to work each morning. Knowing that your Amazon is smart is very important in further developing the Trust Bond. Knowing that your Amazon was not happy to leave her last home – a place of seemingly safety and some level of comfort to end up in yet another Pet Shop or Rescue Centre. Its not easy fitting into a new flock(s) and the problems you will face are not uncommon during that adjustment period.

Please understand that I monthly refer to Sally’s ‘Companion Parrot Handbook’ because it is designed not to be read once or twice, but to be ‘referred too’ often. I would also recommend that an individual taking on a Rescue Parrot should also consider getting Sally’s ‘Beak Book,’ which addresses all issues regarding the Beak, including biting. I recommend starting by open to the Table of Contents and review it. Ask yourself what sections you would recommend to another Parrot Owner who is experiencing the same problem you are faced with and then read those sections as if you were going to have to teach someone else what to do! This frame of mind will position the information differently as you read it, now practice it with your Parrot. It helps to read it ‘Out Loud’ with your Amazon. You will be very surprised as to the level of interest your Amazon will show, after all Amazon’s Love to be Read Too.

As you rethink the approaches that you have used in the past, think about where, when and/or who or what is the center of the problems occurring and what may have started them, what approaches have worked and, which have resulted in a warning and then a bite. Now read the sections in the ‘Companion Parrot Handbook’ on the ‘Neutral Room’ and ‘Using Distraction to Retrain.’ As you thing about the what, where and why you are getting bitten, think about the many section in Chapter Eight: ‘Behavioral Tools & Concepts’ that now clearly address the issues. Note that although you may have read this chapter –now that you are faced with solving a problem, they provide greater insight! Clearly, if you always start from the position that: It is Never the Fault of the Amazon! But, always the Fault of the Human! You will more quickly find what You are do wrong!

Well, now that I have written all of that, if you do not have the Handbook, when you get the Handbook you will see what I am addressing. In the mean time – consider (as referred to above) using a ‘distraction’ as part of your ‘neutral room training.’ The idea of a distraction is to have your Amazon concentrating on something else as you correctly position you hand (or hand held perch) and state ‘Step-Up.’ Example: A bath towel in your left hand that dances slightly in front and to the left of your Parrot as you position and request a ‘Step-Up.’ Commonly, the Parrot will move away from the distraction by Stepping-Up and away. Take care not to add unneeded stress by having the towel dancing over your Amazon’s head and seen as a possible threat to her. It is kind-of-like a young child, ‘please get me out of here,’ but in place of the lifting arms is your hand, that saves your Amazon from the dancing towel. Think it through, dry practice it (without the Parrot) – it’s like clicker training, but the goal is different, once your Parrot is stepping-up with less fuss, the towel can first move farther away and then go away.

Remember, ‘Step-Up’ is the foundation for all Training! And, A Clearly Stated: Step-Up is a Must! The two biggest mistakes Human’s Make with Step-Up is: Not Assure you have the Attention of Your Amazon before you make the request and Second, Not Always use the Words: Step-Up!

Think about what I have covered and zone in on one or two issues and work though them. Having been there several times, I can honestly say: Its Truly Worth Every Moment!


Sources: Sally Blanchard’s: Companion Parrot Handbook and Beak Book


Amazon’s Have More Fun!

 

[SailBoat]

Unrealistic Expectations, Unsatisfactory Decisions!

When one has been around Amazons as long as I have and from time to time, late, during a sleepless night I'm faced with the weird realities of this World and the questions as to the expectations and decisions one has seen over those years come to the surface. Commonly, this only extends the sleepless night and at other times it finds words.

While during one of those sleepless nights, this Segment surfaced. It defines questions that I still cannot find answers too! So, some of the answer(s) needs to come from you as you are faced with the weird realities of this world. At this point, I commonly write something like: Enjoy. But that really does work, so how about: Ponder!


Continued from the above Post


Unrealistic Expectations, Unsatisfactory Decisions!

By: Steven (SailBoat), December 2016


There is an ever growing body of articles supported with magnificent photographs, written in an increasing number of bird magazines and books, which present in my opinion an unrealistic expectation on how a New Owner, and that also includes the rest of us, should care and provide for our Parrots. First Timers and Old Timers alike are being faced with serious guilt-trips and self-doubt regarding their ability to provide what is being presented as an ‘adequate /appropriate’ home for Companion Parrots. Not to say that I would not want to be able to meet or exceed those levels of care for everyone in my family, including me!

It is a rare home in which the adult(s) do not work for a living - few of us have the privilege of staying home and interacting with our Parrots throughout the day, and that’s even tough if you’re retired. For the majority of us, we do the best we can to provide our charges with a good and comfortable environment. However, even those of us who have been long blessed with feathered friends find the custom designed bird rooms and play areas shown in most bird magazines with costs far beyond our reasonable means to provide, plus home grown, fully organic gardens dedicated to providing fresh food that leaving many of us to wonder if our charges would not be better off elsewhere.

And, from that, shall we say over the top environments to the sub-standard depths of the other end pendulum we see that: It is a sad fact that many First Timers fail to read, and/or are not provided by the Seller even basic care information. In these cases, many First Timers are unable or -unwilling to cope with the basic needs of their new-feathered charges.

Adding to all of this is the serious problem of extremist animal rights groups, which are fully against the ‘ownership’ of any animal. Their guilt-trip is that no Human should have the right to refuse an animal’s right to be free, and be with other like animals. With birds, they add the right to fly in a free and natural environment. They activity persuade animal owners to give-up their animals to sanctuaries and in some extreme cases, release them into the wild!

With all these outside pressures, some people are increasing making ill informed choices regarding giving-up their feather friends to an ever increasing number of sanctuaries and rescue groups that run the gambit from very good to seriously bad. Although there are many excellent sanctuaries and rescue groups available, there is also the rapidly growing number of poorly funded or worst, fake groups, which are in fact, little more then fronts for bird brokers. In far too many cases, Companion Parrots that are obviously loved and have been part of their family’s, some for a very long time, are being unwittingly turned over to these groups. In the vast majority of cases many of the good groups are simply excepting Companion Parrots without question.

There is hope! Most of the reputable groups are making ever-greater effort in listening, providing answers, and persuading the owners to keep their Parrots. Some are no longer willing to except Companion Parrots without exhausted consultation to persuade the owner to keep their Parrots. Further, some are having a change of heart as to the morality and ethics of placing Companion Parrots in sanctuaries to: Fly Free With Their Own Kind!

Companion Parrots from loving homes do not thrive in a sanctuary setting, since they were raised to be and were happy as companions in a loving home. As far as they know, their owner’s are: Their Own Kind. Without exception, the ‘former’ Companion Parrots all hang on the side of the flights, craving the Human contact and attention that they are now deprived. They will beg for kisses and scratches and they speak-out in Human words to get someone to take them home. The sad fact is that they no longer receive the Human attention they were raised to have and deserve.

If you or someone you know is considering abandoning your Companion Parrot, please stop and ask: Is It For The Good Of The Parrot? Rarely will it be good for the Companion Parrot, they’re losing their home! Re-think your plans, and if you do decide you really have to relinquish your Companion Parrot, and that you are not able to keep them as your beloved companion, that you take on the added responsibility of finding a new loving home for your feathered babies, where they can continue to feel loved and secure — as they truly deserves.

One thing I have never been able to understand: If It Really Is For The ‘Good Of The Parrot’ and you really want a ‘Good And Loving Home For Your Parrot’, why would you charge money?

Sources: Diana Holloway, The Amazona Society and Georgia Fletcher, The Parrots Delight


Amazon’s Have More Fun!

 

[SailBoat]

Will the Real Organic Parrot Food Please Stand-up!

I had watched for many years as the organic food craze first started with small backyard plots and small specialty farms started showing up at the Farmers’ Market. The Veggies had been the first and to say the least they showed up with all the signs of grown in ground that was not machine worked to generate near perfect Veggies that we have long gotten use too. But with appearances much like those that came from my Great Grandmother’s gardens from tens of years ago. Over the years, we had tried some and found them to be really no different than the other more perfect examples available.

And than, the craze caught hold and nearly every stand at the Market proclaimed that their produce was ‘organic.’ Stands that a couple of years prior displayed no signage, now had ‘Organic’ big and bold above their stand. The Farmer Markets became busy again, like many years gone by when I when shopping as a child with my mother. The only different was the pricing, they had gone up as quickly as the bold signs above the Stands.

As a way of identifying what the different classes are, I have provided the descriptions currently being used! Enjoy!



Continued from the above Post.


Will the Real Organic Parrot Food Please Stand-up!

By: Steven (SailBoat), 2016

“When shopping for organic foods, make sure you know what you’re getting. Keep in mine that the term is often used and applied rather loosely. Make sure the foods you’re buying, and paying extra for, are labeled ‘Certified Organic’ as apposed to simply ‘organic.’ There is a big difference! This goes for packaged and processed Parrot food as well. Note that Parrot food supplier like Harrison’s Diet Pellets is ‘Certified Organic.’ While other that call them selves just ‘Organic’ are not a ‘Certified Organic’ product.

Often, by saying ‘organic’ the grower /producer simply means that ‘this’ food was grown ‘this’ year without the use of pesticides and/or herbicides. At the same time, ‘this’ food may have been grown utilizing synthetic fertilizers in its growth and production. To be USDA ‘Certified Organic,’ the grower /producer must have used organic seeds and may not have applied prohibited substances (i.e., pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, etc….) to the land for at least three years before harvest. In addition, according to an article recently published by Charles Stuart Platkin: Only food producers who fully comply with federal organic rules can call their food ‘Certified Organic.’

Certified Organic: The USDA requires that Certified Organic corps be produced without pesticides, herbicides, synthetic fertilizers, sewage sludge, which is often considered by some growers to be a ‘natural’ fertilizer, bioengineering or ionizing radiation. In addition, the grower /producer must have used organic seeds and may not have applied prohibited substances (i.e., pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, etc….) to the land for ‘at least three years’ before harvest.

“The UDSA makes no claims that organic food is safer or more nutritious than conventionally-produced food. There seems to be some proof that ‘Certified Organic’ foods contain higher levels of anti-oxidants, vitamin C and certain minerals than conventionally grown foods from the same soils and climate conditions.”

To view the complete USDA Organic Standards, please visit their Website at: www.ams.usda.gov/nop/NOP/standards/ProdHandReg.html

“There are many providers and suppliers of Parrot foods that make statements about their foods. Some claim to be ‘Certified Organic’ or, ‘All Natural’ or, ‘Human grade.’ What do these terms mean?

Certified Organic Parrot Foods: The ingredients are grown to UDSA Certified Organic standards. While this may be advantageous to many Parrots, keep in mind this also results in a much shorter shelf life and increases the risk of spoilage. Spoilage increases the risk of your Parrot becoming sick. Greater care must be taken to assure the quality of this food group. An example of a ‘Certified Organic’ supplier is Harrison’s Diet pellets.

Natural Parrot Foods: While the ingredients used are not ‘Certified Organic,’ they are natural in that they ‘preserve’ their foods naturally. Example of a ‘Natural Food’ supplier is Fanta Seeds.

Human Grade Parrot Foods: The ingredients are all safe for Humans too consume, they are not ‘Pet Grade’ food ingredients. They may include chemical preservatives in some of the ingredients. The most widespread example is Sulfur Dioxide, which is commonly used in drying fruits. For the vast majority of Parrots, Sulfur Dioxide is not a problem, but may (as well as other ingredients, included chemical, natural and ‘Certified Organic’ products) cause an allergic reaction, and should be considered if you have a Parrot that feather-picks or otherwise may be displaying an allergic reaction to something. Example of a Human grade food supplier is Goldenfeast.”

There is no such thing as a good deal on Parrot food that has past its expiration date. Always check the expiration date on the foods you purchase for your Parrots!

As a solid foundation for providing your Parrot (and yourself) with a healthy diet use the following tool: If You Will Not Eat It, Do Not Feed It To Your Parrot. And that pretty much eliminates feeding an all sun flower seed diet!

Today, there is very few local retailers’ that supply a full line of high quality Parrot foods in most areas of North America. Therefore an Internet Search is commonly required. An example of a full line, high quality Parrot food retailer is: Parrot Island located in Minnesota, near Minneapolis.


Sources: Carol at the Laughing Parrot and www.birdsafestore.com

Amazons’ Have More Fun!

 

[SailBoat]

Cage Set-Up 101

Okay, so you found the love of your life, or much better stated, your Amazon has chosen the Love of His Life! Now you’re getting ready to come home and oh, I guess we will need a cage. And, to get you out of the shop, the person who just sold you your baby states: Oh this one should be ok and its on sale, or etc., etc., etc… Whether your Amazon will fit in and out of the door and whether the dowel perches and those couple of bowls will work doesn’t matter, at this point its all about getting you out the door with that Parrot, a bag of seed, a few toys and that cage!

Well, ‘that’ cage will likely be your Amazon’s home for as much as eighteen hours a day, day after day! Shouldn’t it be given a little consideration and how about its layout and what that layout should be comprised of, etc., right?

So, in this Segment we consider the cage, its size (bigger the better) what should go into it (lots of stuff) and where the heck should you put it (like close to the action or at least can be seen). Enjoy!

 

[SailBoat]

Continued from above Post!


Cage Set-Up 101
By: Steven (SailBoat), December 2016

One of the first things that should be evaluated with a Parrot displaying behavioral problems is their cage. Where it is located, its size, its shape, and how it is set up. Many behavior problems can be attributed to improper surrounding. The Amazon’s cage should be a safe haven for him with plenty of things to draw his interests and keep him busy.

Type of Cage
A good cage should be easy to keep clean, easy to access (which includes a door large enough for human access,) and it should not be round. The bar spacing should be appropriate for the Parrot’s head not to pass though. Whether or not you have a flat top, play top or a dome top is up to you. However, flat tops provide more options in the long run. One of the best gifts you can give yourself and your parrot is a top of the line, properly sized, large cage. When you skimp on a cage you just end up replacing it again and again. Do your research and get a cage that will last the lifetime of your parrot. Most cages come with a package of standard dishes and perches. Just because it came with the cage does not mean they should not be upgrade and added to, fitting the needs of your Parrot.

Cage Placement
The cage should be placed in an area where you are sure your Parrot will be able to view his surroundings safely without feeling threatened. You do not want to place a Parrot directly in front of a window or in the center of a room. Our first response is to assume that they would enjoy the outdoor view or being right in the middle of a room so they can see everything. The truth is that this type of placement may be fine while your Parrot is young. But once your Parrot becomes sexually mature and aware that it is a prey animal, this type of placement can cause extreme stress. Knowing this, a Parrot should be placed against a solid wall, if this is not possible then the back half of the cage should be covered at all times. This will give him the sense of security that is needed.

Parrots do not live out in the open in the wild. They build nests inside of trees or in dense forest areas. So they may live and raise their young safely. Therefore we should work to mimic this type of environment by placing their cage in a more indiscreet area of our home. One where they can take pleasure in their surroundings and not feel threatened. In addition, consider your Parrots sleep requirements. Does the placement of the cage allow for the proper amounts of undisturbed quiet darkness? If not, do you have a sleeping cage in another room? Sleep deprivation is a common problem for many Parrots. So if your Parrot is not receiving at least ten (10) to twelve (12) hours of rest, each night, you will need to re-evaluate his cage placement.

Quick guide to cage placement

Do not place directly in front of a window
Do not place in center of a room
Do not place right on the edge of a doorway
Do not place next to the TV that is watched late into the night
Do not place in the kitchen because of toxic fumes and its activity level
Do not place in an unfinished basement
Do not place in a utility room
Do not place in the garage
Do not place in your bedroom

Do place in a corner of the family room with a sleeping cage in another room
Do place in a frequently used home office or sitting room
Do have a bird room if you have multiple birds
Do place in an alcove or visible dining room
Do place against a wall
Do place so they have a view of the entire room without making them a focal point.

Your Parrot wants to observe his environment, which allows him to learn and trust his surroundings.

Perches
There should be at least three (3) different diameter perches in the cage, sized for the comfort of your Parrot, commonly larger than those supplied with cage. The perches should also differ in textures with at least one of the perches being a rope or Booda perch. The rope perch should be the one that is placed at the highest point for sleeping. Place this perch in a U shape in an upper back corner of the cage. This is especially important if you have a feather picker. It gives a sense of safety to the Parrot, plus if they turn to pick, the rope is right there and they will commonly opt to shred it. Do not use stone or concrete perches unless they are at the lowest level of the cage and there are at least two or three wood /rope perches available at higher levels in the cage. Wider natural tree branches are always healthier for your Parrot’s claw pads then machined dowels.

After placing the rope sleeping perch, the other perches should be wood, or a minimum of two woods and one of a different texture of choice (see above). There does not have to be perches in front of every food dish. Humans tend to make life just a little too easy for these busy birds. Unless your Parrot has a physical disability or is limited due to age make them work a little.

Cage Set Up
A minimum of three different perches with the primary wood perch running horizontally across the middle of the cage in addition to the rope sleeping perch that should be in a U shape in an upper back corner. The third should be place just inside of the door so that when the door is opened the perch is brought out of the cage. By doing this you do not have to reach into the cage for ‘Step Up’ commands that may be refused. When you want your Parrot to come out you have him come down to this perch first, open the door once he is on it and request the ‘Step Up’. This is a must if your bird has aggression issues. Please remember that undersized perch diameter and dowel perches will damage the pads on your Parrot’s claws (feet).

Now it is time to add lots toys. You should have at least three (3) working toys in the cage at all times. Working toys are toys that make them work for their treats or favored foods. The other toys should be things that are easily shredded such as soft wood, paper, and leather, preferably all of the above. Good toys have many different shapes and textures for the bird to explore and destroy. Your Parrot should have a minimum of ten (10) toys in his cage at all time. You should not be able to see the parrot easily when he is in his cage. This is his home and he should feel camouflaged as he would if he was in the wild.

Place one of the working toys in front of the U shape perch, with the other working toy towards the front of the opposite corner. Place one of the other toys directly on the side of the U perch so that perch is surrounded by hanging toys. This allows your Parrot a hiding place to feel secure. Now take paper towels, shredders, newspaper, leather, or brown paper bags and fold them up and weave them into the cage bars making a little square section on the side and to the back of the U perch. In addition, add a flat toy that can lay against the outside of the cage as a shield behind the sleeping perch. Again this gives a sense of security to the Parrot. Plus if you have a feather picker it gives them another option to chew instead of their feathers.

Please remember that Parrots have been taken from the wild and it is up to us to learn to understand and provide for their needs. Set their cage up in a way that is fun for them and keeps life interesting.

 

[SailBoat]

Continued from above Post!


Additional notes:
Select natural branch perches that have various diameters within the length of the perch. Size the branch diameter to allow for an arc that allows the Parrot’s claws to grasp around the upper half of the branch. Far too many perches are undersized for the Parrot to properly perch on.

Choose larger cages that allow /provide several sheltering /hiding locations with the proper placement of toys and other items will allow them to be comfort in a cage that is a safe haven for them. This effort will allow you to place the cage in those places that a bare /empty cage would be frightening.

The roosting (sleeping) perch is the most important perch in the cage, as indicated it needs to be high in the cage, commonly in a corner with the placement of toys and other hanging elements inside and outside the cage that provide a ‘safe sleeping place,’ whether in the day or night time. I have moved a way from a rope perch in this area and have settled on a larger diameter natural branch perch.

The above recommendations should be considered as a ‘starting point’ for your creativity. With cages, larger with more stuff in them is always the better choice. The goal is to provide a rich assortment of entertainment options, safe hide-a-ways, and several opportunities for multiple placements of food and water.

As noted, it should be a difficult to see your Parrot when in his cage!

Always remember that ‘Busy Beaks’ are Happy Beaks!


Sources: Michelle Karras, Birds USA and Windy City Parrot’s Website

 

[GaleriaGila]

Geez, Mr. Boat... where were you 32 years ago when I was making every mistake imaginable???????
They looked up cages for "conures" and sold me one that I guess would be alright for most conures, but barely suitable for the 18-20 inch long Patagonians!!!! And it was downhill for quite a while after THAT!!!!!