Help with hand feeding baby cockatiel

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This was written fir an older chick but I’ll share it ( copies from ElkenD)

#1.) The hand-feeding formula that you feed your baby Senegal must ALWAYS be between 104 degrees F and 110 degrees F, and must stay in that temperature range throughout the feeding. One degree colder and your baby can suffer fungal/yeast infections in their Crop and throughout their GI Tract, and this can cause Slow-Crop and Crop-Stasis. Even 1 degree hotter and it will cause burns on your bird's crop that usually cause severe infection and require surgery to remove the burnt portion of the Crop...So you must use a digital cooking/candy thermometer that has a metal probe you can place in the formula and keep in the formula throughout each hand-feeding. If the formula needs to be re-heated because it drops below 104 degrees F, do not microwave the already mixed formula because it will develop "hot pockets" that will burn your bird's Crop no matter how well you mix it; instead just microwave water or unflavored Pedialyte, whichever you're using to mix the formula, and then add it slowly to the already mixed formula...

#2.) At 3 weeks old your baby Senegal should have most of it's down feathers but very little to no outer feathers...I don't know if you have a real, proper Brooder that you are keeping your baby in, but if not then you need to at a minimum make a "homemade' Brooder that will keep the amibient temperature your baby is kept in within the correct temperature ranges...If the ambient temperature your baby bird is kept in is too cool they will develop the same fungal/yeast infections and problems as they do when the formula is too cold....If your baby bird does not yet have ALL of their down-feathers yet and still has bare skin exposed, then they MUST be kept in an ambient temperature between 90-95 degrees F at all times except for when you take them out for a hand-feeding or a short handling. Once all of their down feathers are in and there is no more bare skin exposed, but they still don't have all of their outer feathers grown in fully, their ambient temperature must always be between 75-80 degrees F. For a baby Senegal Parrot, who normally wean between the ages of 10 weeks old and 13 weeks old, they should be able to be transferred from their Brooder and into their first "Weaning" or "Starter" Cage around the age of 6-7 weeks old.

To Make a Handmade Brooder: All you need is a cardboard box that is large enough to have a front half and a back half with two different temperature zones, but not too large a box. You need an electric heating-pad that has an adjustible temperature, which will sit underneath the back-half of the box at all times. You'll also need an ambient thermometer that you can place/hang/stick in the back-half of the box, and this is what you will look at to make sure that the back-half of the box is always within the correct temperature range. Then you cover the back-half of the box with a towel or blanket to lock-in the heat in the back-half of the box, leaving the front half of the box uncovered and off of the heating-pad. Once you get this all set-up, turn on the heating-pad to low or medium and cover the back-half of the box, and wait for about 30 minutes for the temperature to reach it's max, and if it's not withint the correct temperature range then you turn it up a setting and wait another 30 minutes. Make sure you have a good, accurate ambient thermometer, the best and cheapest ones being the Accurite digital thermometers that you can just sit in the back of the box and that you can buy at any Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. for around $10-$15 (same for the digital cooking/candy thermometer with the metal probe, Walmart sells them for around $15 in the cooking gadget section)...Leave the front half of the box uncovered and off of the heating-pad so that your baby bird can go to the front of the box if they get too warm...Once your baby is around 6 weeks old or so, or when he/she has all of their outer feathers grow-in and no down-feathers are exposed, then you can move your bird into their Weaning/Starter Cage.

#3.) As far as the hand-feedings go, at only 3 weeks old your baby Senegal MUST be fed every 2-3 hours INCLUDING OVERNIGHT! They cannot go 6-8 hours overnight without being fed every 2-3 hours until they are between 4-5 weeks old. So you unfortuantely have to set an alarm for every 2 hours and get up every 2 hours, check his/her crop, and if it's just about empty at 2 hours then that's the interval that you'll feed them at for the next week. If his/her crop is not almost empty at 2 hours, then check it again at 3 hours and it should be almost empty, and that will be your feeding interval...

During the daytime and during the night until he/she is at least 4 weeks old (before they can go a full 6-8 hours overnight without being fed), their Crop should be almost empty when you give them their next hand=feeding, but won't be completely empty. The only time their Crop will be completely empty between feedings will be at their first morning feeding at 4 weeks, when they can go a full 6-8 hours without being fed...At only 3 weeks old they cannot go any longer than 3 hours maximum without being fed 24 hours a day, and that's why their Crop will never be completely empty at any time of a hand-feeding...Again, at 4 weeks old he/she will be able to go overnight for 6 hours or so without a hand-feeding, and their Crop will be completely empty first thing in the morning when you give them their first hand-feeding of the day; otherwise, during the rest of the day their Crop will be almost empty between hand-feedings, but not quite.

As far as how much formula you should give them during each hand-feeding, I never really go by a "set amount" based on their age as some breeders do...I always go by the size and feeling of their Crop, which you need to always be looking at and feeling lightily with the pad of your finger. At the end of all hand-feedings, their Crop should look very large and round, and when you feel it very gently with your finger (don't ever push on the Crop, just lightly run your finger over it), it should feel like a very full balloon that still has a little bit of 'give" to it. It should not feel tight, if it does then you are feeding them too much formula. And you cannot expect them to stop their feeding-response at the correct time; usually they do actually stop eating and stop their feeding-response and start rejecting the syringe close to the correct time, but not necessarily...YOU CAN NEVER, EVER TRY TO FORCE MORE FORMULA INTO THEM, WHEN THEY'RE DONE THEY'RE DONE, BUT YOU CAN STOP GIVING THEM ANY MORE FORMULA BEFORE THEIR FEEDING-RESPONSE STOPS AND BEFORE THEY THINK THEY ARE DONE, BASED ON THE SIZE AND FEEL OF THEIR CROP.

It's extremely important that you fully "Abundance-Wean" your Senegal, which means that you allow HIM/HER to make the decision when a hand-feeding is removed, and when the amount of formula in each hand-feeding is reduced. If YOU make the decision to remove a hand-feeding each day, or to reduce the amount of formula in each hand-feeding, this is called "Force-Weaning" your baby bird, and it usually results in severe, life-long Neurological and Behavioral issues, as well as serious and sometimes life-threatening physical medical problems...So allow your bird to tell you when a feeding will be rejected or the amount of formula per feeding will be reduced.

Typically the amount of formula they eat per hand-feeding and the number of hand-feedings per day will stay the same until a Senegal Parrot is between 5-6 weeks old, at which time he'll start eating more and more solid food, thus eating less formula. I would typically start putting millet-sprays inside of the Brooder at the age of 4 weeks-old, so that they start learning what solid-food is and will start picking at it and eventually eating it. At 5 weeks old I place a bowl of either pellets of seeds, whichever you are planning on weaning him onto as his daily "staple" food, inside of the Brooder, and once they start eating a good amount of the pellets or seed-mix (or both if you like), then they'll start to Abundance-Wean themselves. At the point where you move them into their Weaning/Starter Cage (when their outer feathers grow-in and no down-feathers are exposed, around 6 weeks old or so), then you're going to also start giving them a bowl of fresh Veggies, dark leaafy Greens, and a very small portion of Fruit every day as well, so that they'll learn what they are and to eat them.

Eventually you'll get to the point that they'll be eating a hand-feeding first thing in the morning and just before bed, and they'll be eating their pellets/seed-mix and fresh Veggies and Greens throughout the day...Then around the time they fully-Fledge, they'll eliminate the morning hand-feeding, and will basically be fully Abundance-Weaned, for a Senegal this will happen between 11-13 weeks old. They will typically continue to beg for a hand-feeding at night just before bed even after they are fully Abundance-Weaned, and this is called a "Comfort-Feeding", and it can continue for a week or two after they actually fully-wean. This is normal, it's not that they're hungry, it's just a comfort thing...
That’s one of my questions. Feed every 2 hours and if the crop isn’t empty wait until 3 hours and then feed. For my baby it takes 3-4 hours to empty if I feed it every 3 wont he get undernourished as opposed to feeding every 2?
 
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Handfeeding formula bag; Mixing instructions are found on the back of bags of baby bird handfeeding formula.Once a formula has been chosen read the manufacturer's instructions a few times. Reading a few times is necessary because mixing and feeding the formula is very easy to do correctly, but our apprehensions may create questions in our minds that are better solved before the first feeding.

Preparing the food in the same area each time will make it easier to keep the process consistent and clean. The counter or area you are using and the sink should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected before the first feeding, and cleaned and disinfected as necessary before each feeding; your sink can be a source of contaminating bacteria and fungus. Something as simple as turning on the disposal can atomize bacteria-laden particles that can be spread throughout the kitchen and make their way into the formula. Disposals can be cleaned reasonably well by pouring a large pot of almost boiling water in once a month. This can be followed by an ice cube tray of ice that will help to scrub the inside as it swirls around.

Cleaning faucet with tooth brush; Old tooth brushes are perfect for the hard to get places that need to be cleaned around sink faucets.The faucet handle, drain area and inside the spigot are the worst areas. Turn your faucet on and wipe/scrub the exposed part of the faucet stem that is not visible when the faucet is off. (An old tooth brush works well). This is an area that is seldom cleaned and usually very dirty. When using a kitchen faucet that has not been used in the last hour, allow the water to flow a few seconds, flushing out any bacteria growing inside the spigot. Once started, avoid touching anything that is not clean including the faucet, refrigerator door and drawer handles. The washcloth being used should be rinsed thoroughly after each use and allowed to dry. It may be better to use paper towels for part of the process, because washcloths can build up bacteria and bacteria and should be changed each day. The Hartman Aviary nursery is only used for babies so there is little possibility of the bacterial contamination that can occur in a home kitchen. If your feeding area is used only for feeding the baby there will be less need to continually disinfect and change washcloths.

Pay Attention! Contamination is in many places you may not be paying attention to. If you have not cleaned the refrigerator door handle and area where the bag of formula is setting in the refrigerator, you may contaminate your hand and the counter where you place the bag.

IMPORTANT! Caution: Your Formula May Be Too Hot.
Fill a cup with the hottest water you can get from your faucet. Measure the temperature with your thermometer and your finger. It should be somewhere around 130 to 150 degrees F. Watch the temperature drop, and with your finger, get a feel for how hot it is with each 5 degree drop until it gets below 100 degrees. After you know the hottest temperature you can get out of your faucet, how long it takes to cool down, and how hot it is by touch, you should never have a problem with the formula being served too hot. It is good to develop a feel for 110 degrees so you can mix the formula at about the correct temperature from the start. Just in case, always check the temperature with a thermometer before feeding.

Formula can be kept warm between mixing and feeding, and while feeding, by placing the bowl of mixed formula or the syringe full of formula into a container of water slightly warmer than feeding temperature. This allows the formula in the dish or inside the syringe to stay within the correct temperature range while you are waiting for the baby to swallow. This is the same process many mothers use to warm up a baby's bottle.

Formula being reheated in warm in water; Place dish or syringe filled with formula into a warm water bath to safely and quickly reheatDon't forget that while the formula inside a syringe will stay warm for a while, the tip of the syringe that touches the baby's beak and tongue will become cold in just a few seconds. While waiting for the baby to swallow, place the tip of the syringe in the warm water or under the flowing faucet. For best results the total preparation and feeding time should be limited to about 5 minutes. An experienced handfeeder will usually take less than 20 seconds per baby. At Hartman Aviary, we leave the water slowly running at about 110 degrees during the entire feeding process so we always have the correct temperature water for reheating the formula and wiping the babies' beaks.

Most formulas do not need to be cooked; avoid any that require this time consuming step. Measure the amount of dry formula you think is needed into your small mixing bowl. After a few feedings, you will know how much you need and will avoid waste. Add the amount of warm water recommended by the manufacturer. A large cooking thermometer makes a great mixing utensil; stir the formula until thoroughly mixed.

Follow the manufacturer's mixing instructions carefully. If the mixture is too thick to suck through a straw, it is probably too thick to easily travel into the baby's esophagus. Formula too thick to pass through the crop may draw fluid from the baby to help with digestion and mobility, and may cause dehydration. Formula mixed too thin will be easy to feed, but will not contain enough nutrition and the baby may be undernourished while processing all the extra water in the formula. Some formulas, when mixed properly, are thin, others are thick, and some get thinner or thicker as they sit on the counter. This is not a problem as long as you are following the manufacturer's directions. It is a good idea to do a couple of trial mixtures before you actually feed. As an experiment, let the mixed formula set for 10 minutes and then check its consistency and temperature.
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EllenD,
Recommend useing the crop empty guidelines.
Seems like she says to wait till empty ...
reasons may not empty faster , could be temp of food, she says in the above quotes yiu have to get the temp right and keep right during feeding.
Also the temp yiu keep the chick st has to be right, and can effect crop empty speed. But also each chick and each feeding is different, variable, keep an eye on the crop like yiu are doing.

The above was all the info I could find, along with the links shared by other members earlier in your thread.
 
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Yes I have been disinfecting everything well and mixing the formula as it says on the container. As for the temperature I don’t have a very accurate thermometer but I make sure it’s warm as if it was milk for a baby. I do plan on asking for a thermometer in the morning since I was not able to find one at the store.
 
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EllenD,
Recommend useing the crop empty guidelines.
Seems like she says to wait till empty ...
reasons may not empty faster , could be temp of food, she says in the above quotes yiu have to get the temp right and keep right during feeding.
Also the temp yiu keep the chick st has to be right, and can effect crop empty speed. But also each chick and each feeding is different, variable, keep an eye on the crop like yiu are doing.

The above was all the info I could find, along with the links shared by other members earlier in your thread.
Alright in the morning I’ll ask a friend for a better thermometer and hopefully that’s the issue and he’s not sick or something.
 
I see your questions about time and crop . I just dint know how to answer. Yes I think needs fed more often but yiu can’t feed if crop is emptying slowly. ElkenD said to use crop as your guide.
So the question is why is it emptying slower? I think temperatures are the reason. Until you can check and adjust that ... then I think you have to keep feeding farther apart....I’m just trying to share everything I can get my hands on. Because I don’t know either....
We can hope someone who dies comes along later with more help
 
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I see your questions about time and crop . I just dint know how to answer. Yes I think needs fed more often but yiu can’t feed if crop is emptying slowly. ElkenD said to use crop as your guide.
So the question is why is it emptying slower? I think temperatures are the reason. Until you can check and adjust that ... then I think you have to keep feeding farther apart....I’m just trying to share everything I can get my hands on. Because I don’t know either....
We can hope someone who dies comes along later with more help
Yes thank you, got a better thermometer from a neighbor will update in a few hours if the crop empties better.
 
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I see your questions about time and crop . I just dint know how to answer. Yes I think needs fed more often but yiu can’t feed if crop is emptying slowly. ElkenD said to use crop as your guide.
So the question is why is it emptying slower? I think temperatures are the reason. Until you can check and adjust that ... then I think you have to keep feeding farther apart....I’m just trying to share everything I can get my hands on. Because I don’t know either....
We can hope someone who dies comes along later with more help
Yes thank you, got a better thermometer from a neighbor will update in a few hours if the crop empties better.
So far the crop seems to be emptying a bit faster also feeding him 10% of his weight so I don’t under feed, will keep updating if I see any more changes.
 
Yippie!!!
Yiu have to keep him. The right temp in the brooder so he can process food
As yiu know they can’t regulate their body temp right now.
Keep up the good work!
 
How’s the little baby?
I’m hoping for a good news update
 
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How’s the little baby?
I’m hoping for a good news update
I’m sorry it’s been so long, the baby is doing ok. He’s gained some weight and his crop is much better. He’s still a little skinny but within the weight on the guide. I will update you after visiting the vet. Thank you.
 
Just go to this thread! I'm a cockatiel breeder. Should you have any more questions or need advice let me know!
 
Just go to this thread! I'm a cockatiel breeder. Should you have any more questions or need advice let me know!

Yeah Itzbean!!! So glad you found the thread! What did you think of the picture of the tiny baby? Skinny not skinny? Is that how a full crop looks? I couldn’t say cuz I hsve no experience with such a tiny one.
 
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Just go to this thread! I'm a cockatiel breeder. Should you have any more questions or need advice let me know!
Sorry I don’t see anything maybe because I’m on a phone I don’t own a PC. Never been on here before excuse me. As Laurasea asked do you think the baby is way too skinny? Someone said he could be stunted I really hope that’s not the case... In that picture the baby was 7 days old and 12.2 grams. He is 10 days old now and at 15 grams. His parents are smaller cockatiels they weight 80-86 grams.

Also, should his crop be empty before each feeding? I been feeding him every 2 hours a day with a 4 hour break at night to let his crop fully empty. Right now after 2 hours his crop is almost empty. Feeding him 10% of his weight with Kaytee Exact formula with 1 parts formula 2 parts water.
 
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Just go to this thread! I'm a cockatiel breeder. Should you have any more questions or need advice let me know!
Sorry I don’t see anything maybe because I’m on a phone I don’t own a PC. Never been on here before excuse me. As Laurasea asked do you think the baby is way too skinny? Someone said he could be stunted I really hope that’s not the case... In that picture the baby was 7 days old and 12.2 grams. He is 10 days old now and at 15 grams. His parents are smaller cockatiels they weight 80-86 grams.

Also, should his crop be empty before each feeding? I been feeding him every 2 hours a day with a 4 hour break at night to let his crop fully empty. Right now after 2 hours his crop is almost empty. Feeding him 10% of his weight with Kaytee Exact formula with 1 parts formula 2 parts water.



Sorry I meant in my post to say I got here not go here, my bad!

I saw the pictures -- the baby does look a bit stunted/skinny. This can happen when a baby doesn't thrive -- isn't getting the right amount of heat, food or overall general health is poor.

Are you sure parents are NOT related? How old are they?

As long as you feed at least 10% of their weight at each feeding (should be every 2 hours at this point if they're less than 10 days old) they should be gaining. Making sure the formula is the right consistency (runnier when young, more like porridge when they're older) and temperature (at least 100 degrees F) should ensure they are getting what they need.

As for the crop...
When they are left with their parents, they are being constantly fed. Throughout the day, ALL day long. It's not uncommon to see their crops literally bulging with food from parents that they can barely stand upright. There are some benefits to the parents feeding the baby, as they get some digestible bacteria from parents which aid in digestion. But we can't give this to them, so that makes the process harder and you have experience sour crop so you know how that goes.

The most important things right now are warmth and regular, big feedings. The crop should be about if not empty when you feed and the babies should be vigorously begging for food each time. You can even go to 11-12% of their weight just to make sure they are eating enough as they are a growing young bird!
 
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Just go to this thread! I'm a cockatiel breeder. Should you have any more questions or need advice let me know!
Sorry I don’t see anything maybe because I’m on a phone I don’t own a PC. Never been on here before excuse me. As Laurasea asked do you think the baby is way too skinny? Someone said he could be stunted I really hope that’s not the case... In that picture the baby was 7 days old and 12.2 grams. He is 10 days old now and at 15 grams. His parents are smaller cockatiels they weight 80-86 grams.

Also, should his crop be empty before each feeding? I been feeding him every 2 hours a day with a 4 hour break at night to let his crop fully empty. Right now after 2 hours his crop is almost empty. Feeding him 10% of his weight with Kaytee Exact formula with 1 parts formula 2 parts water.



Sorry I meant in my post to say I got here not go here, my bad!

I saw the pictures -- the baby does look a bit stunted/skinny. This can happen when a baby doesn't thrive -- isn't getting the right amount of heat, food or overall general health is poor.

Are you sure parents are NOT related? How old are they?

As long as you feed at least 10% of their weight at each feeding (should be every 2 hours at this point if they're less than 10 days old) they should be gaining. Making sure the formula is the right consistency (runnier when young, more like porridge when they're older) and temperature (at least 100 degrees F) should ensure they are getting what they need.

As for the crop...
When they are left with their parents, they are being constantly fed. Throughout the day, ALL day long. It's not uncommon to see their crops literally bulging with food from parents that they can barely stand upright. There are some benefits to the parents feeding the baby, as they get some digestible bacteria from parents which aid in digestion. But we can't give this to them, so that makes the process harder and you have experience sour crop so you know how that goes.

The most important things right now are warmth and regular, big feedings. The crop should be about if not empty when you feed and the babies should be vigorously begging for food each time. You can even go to 11-12% of their weight just to make sure they are eating enough as they are a growing young bird!
I’m not sure if they are related or not. The male is a normal gray and the female a pearl. I was told they are about 2 years old. I got them from a family friend that didn’t want them anymore. This is the first time they lay eggs so it was unexpected. I found the baby day 1 and they had him in a corner and the dad was pecking him and not feeding that’s why I took him I didn’t think he would make it I know it’s a bad idea feeding such a small baby.

As for the formula I’m just mixing how it said on the container. 10% of his weight. When I made this post his crop would take more like 4 hours to be almost empty It was not sour as it was emptying just slowly it could had been from the formula being a degree or two off I’m still not sure what happened. Now I’m using a newer thermometer to make sure it’s exact. He definitely started to get skinny from day 5 to 7 and now he’s putting weight again.

He does beg for food a lot when I feed him. I will post some new pictures the next feeding. If you have any tips to help him gain more weight or speed his crop more please let me know. I saw online to use a drop of apple cider vinagre but I won’t if I’m not sure that will be ok to do. Right now his crop got much faster from before but there’s still a little bit of food at 2 hours mark.
 
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Here are some pictures this how his crop looks before feeding. He definitely looks smaller than other babies his age..
https://ibb.co/HnCmD3y
https://ibb.co/nrd61M6
Also I forgot to mention when he started to get skinny at around 5 days olds his droppings also changed. They used to have really clear water and the poop was beige greenish and sorta noodle shaped then the droppings changed, the water stains the paper of a light yellowish color and the poop no longer is a noodle shape. The color is the same but there is no shape to it and it looks slightly sandy.
I think he might had gotten an infection or something because he was doing so well before I don’t know what I did wrong he was doing fine the first 5 days. He is 10 days today and weighs 14 grams before feeding.
 
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I think you need to fill the crop a little fuller at each feeding. Start out by just s tiny amount more.,
Hopefully Itzy will guide you on that.

I’m so in love with this little baby already!!!! I’m cheering you on!
 
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Yea I just make sure he estas 10% of his weight for now because he struggles to digest that as it is but I fear he has a bacterial infection in his crop. Vet day is Saturday still long way to go and I’m so scared that the vet won’t be able to do much since he’s not an avian vet hopefully he can at least do some tests or give me some antibiotics..
 
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I think you need to fill the crop a little fuller at each feeding. Start out by just s tiny amount more.,
Hopefully Itzy will guide you on that.

I’m so in love with this little baby already!!!! I’m cheering you on!
Those pictures are before feeding by the way, I feed him more than that but that’s how his crop looks before feeding still a little bit of food there. It’s improved only a little at least he is gaining weight I just hope he can hold on a little longer.
 

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