Hello from Japan

[GaleriaGila]

Well, I am late to your Welcome Party, but I'm glad I found you. What an enjoyable thread. You and TC are both delightful, and I am so happy you're here! I hope you stay with us. I wish you a lifelong companionship as wonderful as mine and the Rb's!

P.S. I have 30 years of weight records for him. I weighed him yesterday... 244 grams... within 5 or so grams of his usual range since he reached maturity! It really is a great reassurance.

 

[JFK]

thats the way to have a happy bird!! I have hanging stuff all over for mine too. Really keeps mind and body happy and engaged.
Wonderful to have you!
I always recommend having a digital kitchen scale and weigh bird weekly and log. A 3% body mass loss or more seek veterinarian. As nearly all birds start loosing weight when sick, sometimes very quickly. And if you pick it by weight loss before "sick " burd symptoms it's much easier to save them. As burds usually only show sign when critical, or never show sign and you just find them gone..
It has saved my birds lives. Abd so I repeat it often so every single burd owner will make this a habit

Thanks loads! I read this as well. I’ve picked up a small scale just for this!

 

[JFK]

I do have a couple of questions that I haven’t searched yet.
How much food? Should I limit? She’s exercising at least 8 hours a day. Naps after every 15 min session. She’s fed a mix of cucumbers & carrots w/pellets in the am. Millet during the training sessions, pacific parrotlet mix when she’s in her cage.
I also have had a difficult time getting her on the cuttlebone Or mineral block. But bits of boiled eggs w/shell were a huge success. I really need to get more into the dietary portion knowledge.
She always sleeps like the second pic, usually on one leg.

 

[Scott]

Unfamiliar with dietary needs of Pacific Parrotlets but my flock has food access 24/7/365. Fresh food aka "chop" served in 6 to 8 hour blocks depending on ambient temperature. Dry pellets served balance of day. Kudos for weighing Tiki-Chan frequently, mass is crucial indication of illness. Found several sources for ideal weight, seem to cluster around either 26-32g or 31-34g. Might put Tiki-Chan at lower end of spectrum though individual size of a given species varies. Best to weigh consistently, perhaps following first morning excretion.

 

[Laurasea]

Never limit...burds are grazeres, as to always be flight ready. They normally don't carry much extra weight or fat see above.
So food should always be available.

If you have them out sbd are interacted with them don't forget to offer a snack every half hour or so. I just keep a bowl of pellets or seeds by me to offer. Sometimes mine will fly to cage grab a snack and bring it back to eat with me.. i thank that's so cute.
They only chew cuddle or mineral blocks when they need, sometimes I have to throw mine out and refresh because it takes them so long to chew them up. Boiled egg with shell is also good to offer like you do, mine like that as well.
Be watching those naps, to many nsps and f fluffy an indication of health issues. Its hard to say exactly what tge right number if naps are.. ...but if you put hi on the scale and he quickly closed his eyes... than I'd be a little worried. I think mine take 2-3 naps a day.

 

[Littleredbeak]

Welcome! And what a beautiful sky blue parrot you have!!!

 

[JFK]

Never limit...burds are grazeres, as to always be flight ready. They normally don't carry much extra weight or fat see above.
So food should always be available.

If you have them out sbd are interacted with them don't forget to offer a snack every half hour or so. I just keep a bowl of pellets or seeds by me to offer. Sometimes mine will fly to cage grab a snack and bring it back to eat with me.. i thank that's so cute.
They only chew cuddle or mineral blocks when they need, sometimes I have to throw mine out and refresh because it takes them so long to chew them up. Boiled egg with shell is also good to offer like you do, mine like that as well.
Be watching those naps, to many nsps and f fluffy an indication of health issues. Its hard to say exactly what tge right number if naps are.. ...but if you put hi on the scale and he quickly closed his eyes... than I'd be a little worried. I think mine take 2-3 naps a day.

I am a bit concerned, she naps after flying sessions. I assumed it was because she’s not used to using the flying muscles. She was kept in a tiny cage at the pet store and she’s only 4 months. I’m hoping it’s the out of synced sleep pattern I’ve erroneously had her on. I’m working at adjusting that now to provide her 12 hours of darkness. It’s difficult in the small place I have here in Japan. I’ll be working on her permanent space soon (a converted China cabinet). Her first avian vet appointment is two weeks away.

 

[JFK]

Living in Japan has its challenges. I’m hoping that the photo is an acceptable form of sprout to include in her diet.

 

[Scott]

Living in Japan has its challenges. I’m hoping that the photo is an acceptable form of sprout to include in her diet.View attachment 31201

Certainly looks tasty, rinse well and serve! Best to source items free of harmful pesticides, perhaps Japan has strong and enforced standards?

 

[wrench13]

こんにちは Kevin-san! Tiki is so cute and beautiful. I see you are doing your research on the best care for him. You will find the information on this forum to be a gold mine of practical, wise and useful wisdom, accrued by sometimes painful experience of others. Spend a lot of time reading on here. I will make a few comments and I hope you take them as constructive advice.

Huts, like the ones shown in the pictures, are responsible for many parrot deaths. They frequently start to chew and pick at the fibers that these are made of, and they choke their little intestinal tracts over time. The fibers are not passed as poops and build up and build up over time. I would remove these and if Tiki likes huts, make them out of safe chewable materials, like thin wood veneer or safe paper. You seem very handy Im sure it would be easy for you.

Construction of homemade cages and aviaries is always a tricky thing. Good quality parrot cages are made of steel and then powder coated for corrosion protection. Powder coating is incredibly tough and most parrots can't chew it hard enough to flake it off the steel bars ( maybe macaws and cockatoos can). Homemade cages however are often built using some other bar or restraining material like commercially made galvanized netting or wire, usually from a DIY store. DO NOT USE any galvanized (zinc coated) products! Zinc is a soft metal, easily chewed off by parrots and it will cause heavy metal poisoning in your little Tiki rather quickly. If you are using wood as the framing for the cage, use a parrot safe wood and be aware that Tiki will start to chew that and possibly weaken the cage to the point of escape. Be aware of sharp edges on any material you use to construct a cage. Its very difficult to make a 100% safe homemade cage!

One last comment - I hope that Tiki is put back in his cage when ever you are out of your apartment. Parrots can not be trusted if left free without human supervision. They can chew on things that are not safe for them, like electrical wires (how they love wires!!), or unsafe wood, wall hangings, or even wall material!!.

 

[JFK]

こんにちは Kevin-san! Tiki is so cute and beautiful. I see you are doing your research on the best care for him. You will find the information on this forum to be a gold mine of practical, wise and useful wisdom, accrued by sometimes painful experience of others. Spend a lot of time reading on here. I will make a few comments and I hope you take them as constructive advice.

Huts, like the ones shown in the pictures, are responsible for many parrot deaths. They frequently start to chew and pick at the fibers that these are made of, and they choke their little intestinal tracts over time. The fibers are not passed as poops and build up and build up over time. I would remove these and if Tiki likes huts, make them out of safe chewable materials, like thin wood veneer or safe paper. You seem very handy Im sure it would be easy for you.

Construction of homemade cages and aviaries is always a tricky thing. Good quality parrot cages are made of steel and then powder coated for corrosion protection. Powder coating is incredibly tough and most parrots can't chew it hard enough to flake it off the steel bars ( maybe macaws and cockatoos can). Homemade cages however are often built using some other bar or restraining material like commercially made galvanized netting or wire, usually from a DIY store. DO NOT USE any galvanized (zinc coated) products! Zinc is a soft metal, easily chewed off by parrots and it will cause heavy metal poisoning in your little Tiki rather quickly. If you are using wood as the framing for the cage, use a parrot safe wood and be aware that Tiki will start to chew that and possibly weaken the cage to the point of escape. Be aware of sharp edges on any material you use to construct a cage. Its very difficult to make a 100% safe homemade cage!

One last comment - I hope that Tiki is put back in his cage when ever you are out of your apartment. Parrots can not be trusted if left free without human supervision. They can chew on things that are not safe for them, like electrical wires (how they love wires!!), or unsafe wood, wall hangings, or even wall material!!.

Just took huts down, thanks for the info! The cage will be made in an old China cabinet, the inners will be composed of plexi glass and powder wire from old cages. I’m still getting tips from my aunt & uncle that own two macaws & a grey.
Tiki is cageless most of the day as I am always within sight of her. If I do go out, she’s most definitely caged.
I’ll be going to see Kazumasa Ebisawa at the Yokohama Bird Clinic this Friday for Tikis first visit. Thanks for all the tips !

 

[Zoruace]

Just took huts down, thanks for the info! The cage will be made in an old China cabinet, the inners will be composed of plexi glass and powder wire from old cages. I’m still getting tips from my aunt & uncle that own two macaws & a grey.
Tiki is cageless most of the day as I am always within sight of her. If I do go out, she’s most definitely caged.
I’ll be going to see Kazumasa Ebisawa at the Yokohama Bird Clinic this Friday for Tikis first visit. Thanks for all the tips !

how did the vist go?

 

[JFK]

how did the vist go?

Still a few days away.

 

[Zoruace]

Still a few days away.

isnt friday today?
am i that stuiped?-
is the calender on my pc messed up?-

 

[Zoruace]

isnt friday today?
am i that stuiped?-
is the calender on my pc messed up?-

OH ITS SUNDAY- smh

 

[JFK]

isnt friday today?
am i that stuiped?-
is the calender on my pc messed up?-

It’s Monday! I need some of what you’re smokin’

 

[Zoruace]

It’s Monday! I need some of what you’re smokin’

IT IS?-
my stupidety lvls ae over 90000 I-

 

[Zoruace]

It’s Monday! I need some of what you’re smokin’

i forgot you live in japan
in MY country its sunday
made me thought i was insane for a moment-

 

[Laurasea]

Yes it is a little concerning to tire after flight, and naps...
Ask fir a gram stain of poop, and possibly a culture.
And since your bird seems normal size but it below the weight range, keep and eye on weight. I would offer more millet for extra calories

 

[JFK]

Yes it is a little concerning to tire after flight, and naps...
Ask fir a gram stain of poop, and possibly a culture.
And since your bird seems normal size but it below the weight range, keep and eye on weight. I would offer more millet for extra calories

It just seems we overdid it the day before. Once we got her cycled onto a 12-14 hour sleep cycle, she’s been full of energy throughout the day! It’s been a challenge adapting our daily routines but it’s coming along nicely! She goes nots for millet, I have to be careful or she gets selective with it and it lowers her intake of fresh veggies and fruits which I’m trying to stress. She’s eating pretty much everything. Cucumber, zucchini, carrots, sprout leafs, mustard spinach, apples, potatoes. she gets this in the morning then wanes off as the day progresses. Millet is provided in foraging toys & as reward. Gotta work for the good stuff. She has a parrotlet mix provided in the evening. Pellets are available in her cage and around the aviary. I’ve been reading so much on dietary and it seems to be the number one most controversial topic in my research. I’m just trying to think of how she would eat if she was flying free around Ecuador and keep it as similar as I can with what I have available to me. That’s been my approach anyway. I hope I’m doing it right. Other than that, she’s a spunk! I do wonder if I’m giving her too much attention. She’s out of her cage from around 7am-7pm. She always needs to be around me or she throws a fit. If I change rooms she immediately flys to my shoulder. I haven’t quite got her target trained to fly back to a perch on command yet.