Conure biting PLEASE HELP

[Jmh474]

So we have we have had our conure for about 2 months now and he's not doing two bad with training eg step-up and coming over for bath time.
Our biggest problem is that he or she is a bit of a bitter, We've been told to do what's known as the earthquake when skittle nips and then when he gets to much put him or her back in the cage and ignore him.
I must admit he's not biting as hard, only now and then.
We've been doing this from the start, from when we got him.
Just a couple more thing if I'm right in putting him in his cage for time out how long is enough and he's got a thing about his belly lol he won't let you any where near it.
So I'm a bit of a loss on what to do, just now I had him out and he's attacked my hands .
Any help or advice would be grateful thanks

 

[itzjbean]

Hey, thanks for reaching out! There are many reasons that birds bite. The way to get around it is to try to figure out what is causing the biting. Are you invading his space/forcing him to step up when he doesn't want to? Are you making sure to incorporate positive reinforcement into his training? As in... stepping up will be rewarded with a treat? Are you listening to his body language? Are you working on building a trust bond with him by spending quality time with him every day?

He should also be learning bite-pressure training (like with puppies, learning that biting is not acceptable). When he bites, don't force him on his back where he doesn't want to be. Place him back in his cage without showing emotion and ignore (you could also cover him) for several minutes. Some people even take it a step further and purchase a small dog carrier, put it in a dark place like the bathroom and when conure bites, place for a time-out in there without interaction, attention or light for a few minutes. Consistency is key -- if you don't do this every time he bites too hard, he will never learn that it is not acceptable. It would also be wise to teach your conure target-training, as in teaching him to touch his beak to where you point with a stick or rod and rewarding him with a treat. Then you can work on his flight recall, if he is flighted.

Good luck with your conure!

 

[wrench13]

Time outs work because a natural flock will shun a member that does not obey the rules of the flock. Salty gets a time out on a simple chair back, and we ignore him ( NO EYE CONTACT ) with our back to him. It doesn't have to be that long. With Salty a minute of this, and he gets the message. Try not to use his cage for time outs, that is his 'home', better would be a separate carrier ( though I wouldn't use either). SHunning is the only form of punishment a parrot can understand - yelling, shaking, or other physical forms won't work and are cruel in some cases ( withholding food..).

But itzjbean is correct in that any treatment should be consistent every time and with everyone. Good Luck.

 

[Jmh474]

Me and my partner are using clicker training and reward with treats, only small so it's lasts about 5-10 sec at a time or giving loads of loves so he don't expect a treat every time, he makes a little chearp sound just as he bites as if he's telling me off lol,

 

[Jmh474]

One thing I should of mentioned is that skittle was NOT handred, he lived in an outside aviary in a flock of 7 other conures, the breader said he only really fed them from outside the aviary and he even then went on to say that was not very often (poor skittle �&#56852.
It took nearly 3 weeks for skittle to trust us to take food from our fingers.

 

[wrench13]

Then you are doing good, withan aviary raised conure.Alwys work at your parrots pace not yours, and you cant go wrong.

 

[morrjr]

.... he's got a thing about his belly lol he won't let you any where near it.

My GCC Petey is the same way: if I get anywhere near his belly with my finger he lets me know with a small nip not to do that. He steps up just fine on objects (like a loose wood perch), but he won't step up on a finger.

 

[FlyBirdiesFly]

.... he's got a thing about his belly lol he won't let you any where near it.

My GCC Petey is the same way: if I get anywhere near his belly with my finger he lets me know with a small nip not to do that. He steps up just fine on objects (like a loose wood perch), but he won't step up on a finger.

You can try target training Petey or luring him onto your finger with a treat. That should distract him enough so he doesn’t bite.

 

[asagiyuu]

With my GCC I tell her "no" when she bites hard the first time, if the second bite is also hard then I put her on the floor right outside my room and keep my back turned for about 30 seconds, she also has to make the trip back to me. It gives her the message that she is not the boss and that biting means boring and alone.

 

[LordTriggs]

no worries in an aviary raised Conure, mine was one and you wouldn't have believed it seeing him.

Like others have said the time-out/shun method is a life saver. Not only gives them the message of bites=boring but it also gives you a moment to defuse yourself. really they just need that little extra patience, once they figure out you're a friend (and treat dispenser) they turn around pretty fast and become real goofballs

 

[Peaches_The_Sun_Conure]

It also matters how old your bird is. When i got peach, i had bruises on my hands from her biting. But it got better as she got older.

 

[dhraiden]

Best advice in thread was Wrench's. Be consistent. Demonstrate clear consequence follows certain actions.