So, this is going to be my first bird and they will be a parakeet. I was thinking of getting "Planet Petco Crumbled Pine Bird Litter" from petco but I looked up if crumbled pine litter was good for my parakeet and I read that "nothing added in terms of colors, deodorizers or scents, and very little to no dust, are the safest to use with pet birds" so I checked if the litter I picked out had any deodorizers and it said that there was baking soda for "outstanding odor control". Is it still okay? I was also thinking of getting a 2.5lb bag of "Higgins Vita Seed" as food but since I'm already making this, I was wondering if this was okay. I'm also getting "Vitakraft Triple Baked Crunch Sticks Honey, Egg & Fruit Variety Pack Parakeet Treat" that's 2.4 oz. as well as "Higgins Sunburst Gourmet Natural Treats - Leafy Greens & Herbs" which is 1 oz. I'm pretty sure they'll be fine(I know that treats aren't food and I shouldn't give it to them whenever) but I wanted to get an opinion from people that know more about this than I do.(If you have any recommendations, please don't be too expensive.)
Bird Litter and Food(kind of need to know asap, thanks)
- Thread starter Maxy
- Start date
noodles123
Well-known member
- Jul 11, 2018
- 8,145
- 475
- Parrots
- Umbrella Cockatoo- 15? years old..I think?
DO NOT use litter.
Use black and white newspaper, paper towels or rolls of paper cut to fit (under the grate)...
Pine can produce fumes with urine and it also is not safe for them to ingest if they manage to get some from the bottom and mess with it.
Your bird's cage SHOULD NOT smell strongly---odor control should mostly be a non-issue with proper cleaning. If your bird's poop has a scent, that is a health issue if it happens more than 1x within a day or so..
ALSO- in case you are shopping-- NO SNUGGLE HUTS/TENTS/HAPPY HUTS..very dangerous, very hormonally triggering...
You need pellets and seeds....Not just seeds-- depends on what your bird is used to, but seeds alone are a recipe for liver failure, obesity and malnutrition. Seeds are a very poor diet overall (but if that is what your bird knows, you have to ween them off, not just cut them off cold-turkey). Here is some info on what you can and can't feed a bird that I copied and pasted from another post: Diet should be pellets, vegetables and grains (some are unsafe, so research) and minimal fruit, with a few healthy seeds.
NO garlic, chives, leeks, shallots, onions, scallions, rhubarb, tomato, mushrooms,celery (due to strings), chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, salt (except in very small amounts), avocado, sugar (except in very small amounts), no coffee (even decaf), certain beans are unsafe even when cooked (due to various toxins, including aflatoxins) and no canned beans should be given regularly due to salt and preservative content....no peanuts (due to aflatoxins and aspergillus risk) and no sunflower seeds (except in EXTREME moderation, as treats).
Oh-- and NO apple seeds or fruit pits!
Also- no artificial sweeteners for the most part, although a few aren't deadly, almost all cause digestive upset...
AH- almost forgot-- NO HONEY and limit cirtrus fruit to VERY small amounts if you feed it. For a large cockatoo that weighs over 1lb, the vet said 1 tangerine slice was okay per week. For a smaller bird, it will be much less.
Please also watch this video on home-dangers because you sound very new to this and A LOT of this info is NOT COMMON SENSE!!!
[ame="https://youtu.be/xwvsbJuCQsg"]10 Common Household Dangers Deadly to Parrots | This Can Save Your BirdĆ¢ā¬ā¢s Life! - YouTube[/ame]
I REALLLLLLY hope you have a better cage than what they tell you to get at PetSmart...Parakeets need a lot more room than people think..
Use black and white newspaper, paper towels or rolls of paper cut to fit (under the grate)...
Pine can produce fumes with urine and it also is not safe for them to ingest if they manage to get some from the bottom and mess with it.
Your bird's cage SHOULD NOT smell strongly---odor control should mostly be a non-issue with proper cleaning. If your bird's poop has a scent, that is a health issue if it happens more than 1x within a day or so..
ALSO- in case you are shopping-- NO SNUGGLE HUTS/TENTS/HAPPY HUTS..very dangerous, very hormonally triggering...
You need pellets and seeds....Not just seeds-- depends on what your bird is used to, but seeds alone are a recipe for liver failure, obesity and malnutrition. Seeds are a very poor diet overall (but if that is what your bird knows, you have to ween them off, not just cut them off cold-turkey). Here is some info on what you can and can't feed a bird that I copied and pasted from another post: Diet should be pellets, vegetables and grains (some are unsafe, so research) and minimal fruit, with a few healthy seeds.
NO garlic, chives, leeks, shallots, onions, scallions, rhubarb, tomato, mushrooms,celery (due to strings), chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, salt (except in very small amounts), avocado, sugar (except in very small amounts), no coffee (even decaf), certain beans are unsafe even when cooked (due to various toxins, including aflatoxins) and no canned beans should be given regularly due to salt and preservative content....no peanuts (due to aflatoxins and aspergillus risk) and no sunflower seeds (except in EXTREME moderation, as treats).
Oh-- and NO apple seeds or fruit pits!
Also- no artificial sweeteners for the most part, although a few aren't deadly, almost all cause digestive upset...
AH- almost forgot-- NO HONEY and limit cirtrus fruit to VERY small amounts if you feed it. For a large cockatoo that weighs over 1lb, the vet said 1 tangerine slice was okay per week. For a smaller bird, it will be much less.
Please also watch this video on home-dangers because you sound very new to this and A LOT of this info is NOT COMMON SENSE!!!
[ame="https://youtu.be/xwvsbJuCQsg"]10 Common Household Dangers Deadly to Parrots | This Can Save Your BirdĆ¢ā¬ā¢s Life! - YouTube[/ame]
I REALLLLLLY hope you have a better cage than what they tell you to get at PetSmart...Parakeets need a lot more room than people think..
Last edited:
noodles123
Well-known member
- Jul 11, 2018
- 8,145
- 475
- Parrots
- Umbrella Cockatoo- 15? years old..I think?
ALSO, because you seem very new to this (please read):
Here is my "go-to" post for new bird owners--it's long-thank you for caring!!!
I want you to really understand, that adopting a parrot is like adopting a 4-year-old child with special needs who never grows up and lives for 20-80+ years (depending on the species). They are extremely complicated pets. That having been said:
I am going to write a ton here because it sounds like you are very new to this and there is a lot to learn. I don't mean to overwhelm you!
One really important thing when keeping a pet bird in the house is that you cannot use scented products or chemicals/fumes in your home (even things that smell nice to us(---things like smoke, perfumes, air freshener, standard cleaners, vaping, burning food, incense, cigarettes, glue, paint, window sealing kits, polishes, aerosol sprays etc can harm your bird's sensitive respiratory system (which is not the same as mammals'). Using products that heat or are heated which contain Teflon/PTFE/PFOA/PFCs = very very dangerous. These products off-gas and can kill a bird in under 5 minutes. Teflon/PTFE/PFOA/PFCs are most commonly found in the kitchen (pots, pans, cookie sheets, drip trays, air fryers, popcorn poppers, baking mats, crock pots, toasters, toaster ovens, popcorn poppers, waffle irons, electric skillets etc. They can also be found in space-heaters, curling irons, blow-dryers, straighteners, heat lamps, heat guns, irons, ironing board covers etc. These fumes have killed birds through closed doors and on separate floors of a home, so you should replace your cookware with stainless steel, cast iron or ceramic. You may be thinking-- well, I have used them before and my bird is fine, but they kill very inconsistently and it depends on what you are cooking, the age of the pot/pan, the specific bird etc. There was a member who lost many of her birds from a pan she had literally used for years...then one day, her husband cooked an egg (without burning or overheating) and many of them died, while the rest showed signs of respiratory distress.
You will need an avian-safe cleaner to use within your home (both on the bird cage, but also, around the house). Again, chemical cleaners cannot be used in the home unless avian safe. F10 SC (the yellow/clear concentrate) is a great, avian-safe disinfectant. Other (less effective) options include products such as "poop-off", white vinegar + water, grapefruit seed extract + water, baking soda etc. Peroxide is also fairly safe for disinfecting places like your bathroom, but you do not want your bird to come into contact with it.
Some foods are toxic to them--avocado, coffee (even decaf), caffeine, rhubarb, alcohol, onions/garlic/leeks/chives, mushrooms etc. Salt is also very bad for them, as is most human food. They love it, but it's not healthy.
They should not just eat seed--you will want to feed lots of washed fresh vegetables. Fruit is fine in moderation, but too much can lead to obesity and behavioral issues due to sugar. I feed my bird a mix of high-quality seed (no sunflowers, no peanuts) and pellets (in addition to fruit/veg). Fruit pits are toxic, as are apple seeds. Corn cob and certain nut shells (if swallowed in big pieces) can cause blockages, so you should be very cautious if you give your bird nuts in the shell. Peanuts can harbor aspergillosis, and should be avoided altogether (even they you often see them marketed towards parrots).
It is important to make sure that your bird's toys and cage are made of safe metals. Stainless steel is safest. They can get metal poisoning from playing with or mouthing objects made of unsafe metals.
They need a set amount of sleep each night (at least 10 hours) and the largest cage you can manage with lots of different perches. You want to avoid the totally smooth/round ones as they can lead to a condition called bumblefoot. Never place a cage near drafts and never allow cool air to blow on a bird. They are sensitive to drafts and any temperature shift greater than 10 degrees can cause a shock to their system.
They need lots of safe toys and safe wood to chew. Not all wood is safe, so don't just assume you can give them any kind you want.
They hide illness and so you have to watch them to make sure they are eating normally and pooping normally etc. You should try to find an avian vet (certified avian) if at all possible and take your bird AT LEAST 1 x yearly for an exam. An avian vet is NOT the same as an exotics vet who sees birds--- so if a certified avian vet is available within a few hours of where you live, you will want to set up care.
All parrots can easily confuse the relationship with their human for a sexual one. You don't want this to happen, even though it seems sweet at first. Stick to petting on the head and neck only (the rest is sexual) and do not allow your bird to play in shadowy places, like boxes or under furniture, as these spaces are similar nesting sites and are hormonal triggers. NO SNUGGLE HUTS/TENTS!
Food and water should be replaced daily--- wash the containers daily. Never leave wet food out for more than a few hours (as it can lead to bacterial growth). Never try to medicate a bird via drinking water and never add vitamins to water. Vitamins can be over-dosed easily and harm a bird. Plus, when you add things to water, it makes it impossible to know how much they have gotten and it also encourages bacterial growth. Sometimes it can prevent them from drinking adequately if they don't like the flavor of whatever it is you added.
These birds have the intelligence of a 4-year-old human, but they are wild animals (not domesticated like dogs). This means that they see the world (and humans) in a very unique way and so you must learn about their behavior in order to prevent problems (screaming, plucking etc). They need lots of time out of their cage daily and a lot of interaction (at least a few hours). At the same time, you don't want to spend TOO much time with a bird of they will become overly dependent and not know what to do with themselves when you go to work etc.
Finally, baby birds are ALWAYS sweet compared to adult birds. When your bird hits puberty, expect that it will exhibit some annoying and problematic behaviors (much like a teen). A through knowledge of behavior and setting expectations at an early age will make your life easier when that time comes, but do prepare yourself and expect that things will not always be so smooth-sailing. Think about a baby human compared to a teen...
I am sure there is more...but that is a basic overview of caring for birds.
Here is an excerpt from another post (which you may want to reference when shopping/ calling about Teflon:
The most insidious is the Teflon/ptfe/pfoa/pfcs because you have to call the company to verify that anything that heats or is intended to be heated does not contain these substances ("PTFE free" doesn't mean PFC free and so there are a lot of marketing gimmicks out there to make people buy what seems like healthier cook-ware, even though it still contains a version of the same chemicals). Also-- these chemicals can be woven into fabric, mixed into metal during the moulding process, applied as a powder, applied as a clear-coat, or mixed with a colored coating. You cannot assume that you will be able to identify them visually, so, when you call, you must provide all abbreviations and full names + spellings of each chemical compound (and then they usually give you "the run around" for a week or so IF they ever answer your questions at all---because sometimes it's a "trade secret"). It's all very sketchy and DuPont (manufacturer of Teflon) claims that off-gassing only occurs at really high temperatures, but there have been numerous documented/scientific and anecdotal reports of birds passing away at temperatures in the 300 F range (and again, it kills through closed doors and on different floors).
FYI- Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)
A perfluorinated compound (PFC)
Teflon (a common brand-name of non-stick cookware containing these chemicals)
10- 12 hours nightly for sleep, so if you get up at 6 and make a bunch of noise, you will wake the bird up (even if they are still covered). If they wake up at 6, bed should be between 6-8. You want to keep it around the same time if possible (because that's how it is in nature).
Food- I leave a high quality mix of pellets and some seed in my bird's cage (no peanuts, no sunflowers, avoid fillers like corn etc)..Fruit/veg daily (more veg than fruit if at all possible--and not too much fruit). Citrus and fruits high in vitamin C should be given in extreme moderation because they can cause "Iron Storage Disease" (for a cockatoo, 1 small tangerine slice 1-2 times a week was okay, according to my vet). She gets something interesting/ cooked (no salt or sugar or unsafe spaces-- like a grain) 2x daily as well but she is picky as heck, so you have to watch it because some birds will fill up on one thing and not get proper nutrients or they will eat too much and become obese.
OH-- something I didn't mention in my last post-- stainless steel is really one of the only safe metals for them. Research the heck out of your cage and make sure that if it uses a powder-coating it is truly non-toxic. Birds can get metal poisoning from playing with sketchy toys (many made in China do not adhere to best practices) and just mouthing things like money, bolts, locks etc can cause toxic impacts...A man I know allowed his bird to play with un-used toothbrushes and (unbeknownst to him) there were small copper bits that held the bristles in place-- this nearly killed his bird even though the bird didn't actually swallow the pieces.
Here is my "go-to" post for new bird owners--it's long-thank you for caring!!!
I want you to really understand, that adopting a parrot is like adopting a 4-year-old child with special needs who never grows up and lives for 20-80+ years (depending on the species). They are extremely complicated pets. That having been said:
I am going to write a ton here because it sounds like you are very new to this and there is a lot to learn. I don't mean to overwhelm you!
One really important thing when keeping a pet bird in the house is that you cannot use scented products or chemicals/fumes in your home (even things that smell nice to us(---things like smoke, perfumes, air freshener, standard cleaners, vaping, burning food, incense, cigarettes, glue, paint, window sealing kits, polishes, aerosol sprays etc can harm your bird's sensitive respiratory system (which is not the same as mammals'). Using products that heat or are heated which contain Teflon/PTFE/PFOA/PFCs = very very dangerous. These products off-gas and can kill a bird in under 5 minutes. Teflon/PTFE/PFOA/PFCs are most commonly found in the kitchen (pots, pans, cookie sheets, drip trays, air fryers, popcorn poppers, baking mats, crock pots, toasters, toaster ovens, popcorn poppers, waffle irons, electric skillets etc. They can also be found in space-heaters, curling irons, blow-dryers, straighteners, heat lamps, heat guns, irons, ironing board covers etc. These fumes have killed birds through closed doors and on separate floors of a home, so you should replace your cookware with stainless steel, cast iron or ceramic. You may be thinking-- well, I have used them before and my bird is fine, but they kill very inconsistently and it depends on what you are cooking, the age of the pot/pan, the specific bird etc. There was a member who lost many of her birds from a pan she had literally used for years...then one day, her husband cooked an egg (without burning or overheating) and many of them died, while the rest showed signs of respiratory distress.
You will need an avian-safe cleaner to use within your home (both on the bird cage, but also, around the house). Again, chemical cleaners cannot be used in the home unless avian safe. F10 SC (the yellow/clear concentrate) is a great, avian-safe disinfectant. Other (less effective) options include products such as "poop-off", white vinegar + water, grapefruit seed extract + water, baking soda etc. Peroxide is also fairly safe for disinfecting places like your bathroom, but you do not want your bird to come into contact with it.
Some foods are toxic to them--avocado, coffee (even decaf), caffeine, rhubarb, alcohol, onions/garlic/leeks/chives, mushrooms etc. Salt is also very bad for them, as is most human food. They love it, but it's not healthy.
They should not just eat seed--you will want to feed lots of washed fresh vegetables. Fruit is fine in moderation, but too much can lead to obesity and behavioral issues due to sugar. I feed my bird a mix of high-quality seed (no sunflowers, no peanuts) and pellets (in addition to fruit/veg). Fruit pits are toxic, as are apple seeds. Corn cob and certain nut shells (if swallowed in big pieces) can cause blockages, so you should be very cautious if you give your bird nuts in the shell. Peanuts can harbor aspergillosis, and should be avoided altogether (even they you often see them marketed towards parrots).
It is important to make sure that your bird's toys and cage are made of safe metals. Stainless steel is safest. They can get metal poisoning from playing with or mouthing objects made of unsafe metals.
They need a set amount of sleep each night (at least 10 hours) and the largest cage you can manage with lots of different perches. You want to avoid the totally smooth/round ones as they can lead to a condition called bumblefoot. Never place a cage near drafts and never allow cool air to blow on a bird. They are sensitive to drafts and any temperature shift greater than 10 degrees can cause a shock to their system.
They need lots of safe toys and safe wood to chew. Not all wood is safe, so don't just assume you can give them any kind you want.
They hide illness and so you have to watch them to make sure they are eating normally and pooping normally etc. You should try to find an avian vet (certified avian) if at all possible and take your bird AT LEAST 1 x yearly for an exam. An avian vet is NOT the same as an exotics vet who sees birds--- so if a certified avian vet is available within a few hours of where you live, you will want to set up care.
All parrots can easily confuse the relationship with their human for a sexual one. You don't want this to happen, even though it seems sweet at first. Stick to petting on the head and neck only (the rest is sexual) and do not allow your bird to play in shadowy places, like boxes or under furniture, as these spaces are similar nesting sites and are hormonal triggers. NO SNUGGLE HUTS/TENTS!
Food and water should be replaced daily--- wash the containers daily. Never leave wet food out for more than a few hours (as it can lead to bacterial growth). Never try to medicate a bird via drinking water and never add vitamins to water. Vitamins can be over-dosed easily and harm a bird. Plus, when you add things to water, it makes it impossible to know how much they have gotten and it also encourages bacterial growth. Sometimes it can prevent them from drinking adequately if they don't like the flavor of whatever it is you added.
These birds have the intelligence of a 4-year-old human, but they are wild animals (not domesticated like dogs). This means that they see the world (and humans) in a very unique way and so you must learn about their behavior in order to prevent problems (screaming, plucking etc). They need lots of time out of their cage daily and a lot of interaction (at least a few hours). At the same time, you don't want to spend TOO much time with a bird of they will become overly dependent and not know what to do with themselves when you go to work etc.
Finally, baby birds are ALWAYS sweet compared to adult birds. When your bird hits puberty, expect that it will exhibit some annoying and problematic behaviors (much like a teen). A through knowledge of behavior and setting expectations at an early age will make your life easier when that time comes, but do prepare yourself and expect that things will not always be so smooth-sailing. Think about a baby human compared to a teen...
I am sure there is more...but that is a basic overview of caring for birds.
Here is an excerpt from another post (which you may want to reference when shopping/ calling about Teflon:
The most insidious is the Teflon/ptfe/pfoa/pfcs because you have to call the company to verify that anything that heats or is intended to be heated does not contain these substances ("PTFE free" doesn't mean PFC free and so there are a lot of marketing gimmicks out there to make people buy what seems like healthier cook-ware, even though it still contains a version of the same chemicals). Also-- these chemicals can be woven into fabric, mixed into metal during the moulding process, applied as a powder, applied as a clear-coat, or mixed with a colored coating. You cannot assume that you will be able to identify them visually, so, when you call, you must provide all abbreviations and full names + spellings of each chemical compound (and then they usually give you "the run around" for a week or so IF they ever answer your questions at all---because sometimes it's a "trade secret"). It's all very sketchy and DuPont (manufacturer of Teflon) claims that off-gassing only occurs at really high temperatures, but there have been numerous documented/scientific and anecdotal reports of birds passing away at temperatures in the 300 F range (and again, it kills through closed doors and on different floors).
FYI- Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)
A perfluorinated compound (PFC)
Teflon (a common brand-name of non-stick cookware containing these chemicals)
10- 12 hours nightly for sleep, so if you get up at 6 and make a bunch of noise, you will wake the bird up (even if they are still covered). If they wake up at 6, bed should be between 6-8. You want to keep it around the same time if possible (because that's how it is in nature).
Food- I leave a high quality mix of pellets and some seed in my bird's cage (no peanuts, no sunflowers, avoid fillers like corn etc)..Fruit/veg daily (more veg than fruit if at all possible--and not too much fruit). Citrus and fruits high in vitamin C should be given in extreme moderation because they can cause "Iron Storage Disease" (for a cockatoo, 1 small tangerine slice 1-2 times a week was okay, according to my vet). She gets something interesting/ cooked (no salt or sugar or unsafe spaces-- like a grain) 2x daily as well but she is picky as heck, so you have to watch it because some birds will fill up on one thing and not get proper nutrients or they will eat too much and become obese.
OH-- something I didn't mention in my last post-- stainless steel is really one of the only safe metals for them. Research the heck out of your cage and make sure that if it uses a powder-coating it is truly non-toxic. Birds can get metal poisoning from playing with sketchy toys (many made in China do not adhere to best practices) and just mouthing things like money, bolts, locks etc can cause toxic impacts...A man I know allowed his bird to play with un-used toothbrushes and (unbeknownst to him) there were small copper bits that held the bristles in place-- this nearly killed his bird even though the bird didn't actually swallow the pieces.
Welcome to Parrot Forums, it sounds like you only want the best for your new little buddy!
Definitely no litter or crushed shell or any similar kind of substrate is required for the bottom of the cage. Plain old newspaper or kitchen paper towel is best and if it's changed daily or every other day there should be no odour. White kitchen paper is also great for checking your bird's poop - poop is a GREAT indicator of a bird's health and often people find any health issues show up there WAY before the bird shows any evidence of ill-health, so it can be a lifesaver!
Fresh, well washed vegies are always better than commercially prepared, most budgies love leafy greens like kale, broccoli and spinach. Vegies are better than fruit because they have less sugar that can lead to obesity or liver disease.
Congratulations on your new little guy and don't forget to post some photos when you've got 'em!
Definitely no litter or crushed shell or any similar kind of substrate is required for the bottom of the cage. Plain old newspaper or kitchen paper towel is best and if it's changed daily or every other day there should be no odour. White kitchen paper is also great for checking your bird's poop - poop is a GREAT indicator of a bird's health and often people find any health issues show up there WAY before the bird shows any evidence of ill-health, so it can be a lifesaver!
Fresh, well washed vegies are always better than commercially prepared, most budgies love leafy greens like kale, broccoli and spinach. Vegies are better than fruit because they have less sugar that can lead to obesity or liver disease.
Congratulations on your new little guy and don't forget to post some photos when you've got 'em!
fiddlejen
Well-known member
- Mar 28, 2019
- 1,232
- Media
- 11
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- Sunny the Sun Conure (sept '18, gotcha 3/'19). Mr Jefferson Budgie & Mrs Calliope Budgie (albino) (nov'18 & jan'19). Summer 2021 Baby Budgies: Riker (Green); Patchouli, Keye, & Tiny (blue greywings).
Are you getting your parakeet from Petco? (Just wondering since you mention the petco bedding.) Or from another petstore? I suggest finding out what they are feeding it. Parakeets especially can be quite timid and refuse to eat food that is too different. IF they already have it on a mix that includes pellets, get the same ones and make sure to include them, so you don't have to re-acclimate them to pellets later on.
When you feed your keet, don't put too much in the dish. Or i should say, don't put it too Deeply. You should empty and replace it once or twice daily. Even if it is partially or apparently all the way full. If they are eating seeds, it will still Look Full from the empty husks. In fiact, as the husks are lighter, the dish can look more-full as it gets eaten. If you fill the dish deeply, you will be throwing away extra food. They will eat the top layer and turn it to husks, and they will not find the new seed underneath. So, give them plenty food but not too deep.
I like the "Higgins Sunburst Gourmet Natural Treats - Leafy Greens & Herbs," I often sprinkle it on top of my budgies' food. The seedmix you mentioned is a reasonably-okay one - but I'd definitely suggest find out what your keet is being fed already and go with that to start with. Then if you want to transition him to something different, do so gradually.
Regarding those honey-egg treat sticks. My birdies all like them quite well. I like them less. They do have a faint eggy odor, and the birds (of course) make a mess with them. I don't give mine stuff with sweeteners very often. But as treats they are fine.
When you feed your keet, don't put too much in the dish. Or i should say, don't put it too Deeply. You should empty and replace it once or twice daily. Even if it is partially or apparently all the way full. If they are eating seeds, it will still Look Full from the empty husks. In fiact, as the husks are lighter, the dish can look more-full as it gets eaten. If you fill the dish deeply, you will be throwing away extra food. They will eat the top layer and turn it to husks, and they will not find the new seed underneath. So, give them plenty food but not too deep.
I like the "Higgins Sunburst Gourmet Natural Treats - Leafy Greens & Herbs," I often sprinkle it on top of my budgies' food. The seedmix you mentioned is a reasonably-okay one - but I'd definitely suggest find out what your keet is being fed already and go with that to start with. Then if you want to transition him to something different, do so gradually.
Regarding those honey-egg treat sticks. My birdies all like them quite well. I like them less. They do have a faint eggy odor, and the birds (of course) make a mess with them. I don't give mine stuff with sweeteners very often. But as treats they are fine.
Flboy
Well-known member
- Dec 28, 2014
- 12,601
- 4,106
- Parrots
- JoJo, 'Special' GCC, Bongo, Cinnamon GCC(wife's)
Welcome! Happy adventures!
Welcome and be welcomed. You received a lot of very important info above, I hope you read and take heed of it.
- Aug 21, 2010
- 32,673
- 9,798
- Parrots
- Goffins: Gabby, Abby, Squeaky, Peanut, Popcorn / Citron: Alice / Eclectus: Angel /Timneh Grey: ET / Blue Fronted Amazon: Gonzo /
RIP Gandalf and Big Bird, you are missed.
Welcome to ParrotForums! Unfamiliar with parakeets, but some great advice above! Good luck with your new bird, feel free to post questions and pictures!!
- Thread Starter
- Thread starter
- #9
Thank you for all the tips and I was planning on getting a bird cage from petco but the size of them just don't seem big enough; they weren't even the same size as a minimum of a cage. Because of that, I've been looking on amazon for a cage big enough that is made of stainless steal. You were right by the way, I am very new to this and after reading your "go-to" post for new bird owners, I got a little nervous and had second thoughts about getting a bird but I'm still planning on getting one. Also! I was planning on getting a parakeet from petco unless someone thinks I should get one from a different place. Anyway, thank you all. 
- Mar 20, 2017
- 3,436
- 906
- Parrots
- Bumble - Pacific (or Celestial) Parrotlet hatched 02/19/17
Good for you wanting a bigger cage! Stainless steel can be pricey. A nice powder coating will be fine. Make sure bar spacing is 1/2ā or less so they canāt poke their heads through the bars.
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