Did someone say "Probiotics"????
Yes, I highly recommend you start him on a daily Probiotic supplement as soon as you bring him home, either BeneBac (available at any Petco/Petsmart or Tractor Supply), or Qwiko Avian Probiotic Powder...You NEVER want to put ANYTHING AT ALL in his drinking water, not vitamins, supplements, medications, etc., and if a Vet ever tells you to do so, you need a new Vet...However, you do put the daily dose of Probiotic powder on his morning meal (either pellets or seeds), it's a very small amount of powder, and that's it, he'll eat it while he eats his food, and it will replenish all the beneficial-bacteria throughout his GI Tract, keep away any Fungal/Yeast infections, and help his overall health in-general. This is good for any captive/pet bird...
Other than the Probiotics, you DO NOT want to start giving him any other supplements, vitamins, medications, etc., whether they are "holistic" or not, unless a Certified Avian Vet or Avian Vet Specialist prescribes it BASED ON HIS BLOOD-WORK AND/OR FECAL TESTING RESULTS...(No "Exotics" Vets for this bird unless they are also a Certified Avian Vet; there is a great search-tool here in the forum that is world-wide and only finds CAV's and Avian Specialist Vets based on your Zip Code, Country, City, Town, etc. So if you need to find one, we can post the link for you here in this thread...
You will definitely want to take him to either a CAV or an Avian Specialist Vet within the first month of bringing him home (the sooner the better) to have full Fecal-Testing (Gram-Stain/Microscopy in-house and then also a Culture & Sensitivity that they will send out to the lab), which will require you to bring a sample that is less than 24-hours old and was put in the fridge after it was collected, and then also complete, full, routine and 'baseline" Blood-Work, which will show you if he currently has any infections, is anemic, has any nutritional deficiencies or metabolic issues, will show both his Liver and his Kidney function and overall-health and tell you if he has Fatty Liver Disease, Kidney Disease, Gout, is Diabetic, has any Thyroid issues, etc. It will also give you his "Baseline" levels to compare to each year when you take him for the same complete Wellness-Exam with his Avian Vet (must have this done once a year at the least), and also you'll have his Baseline-levels to compare to if he ever becomes sick, so that you'll know what "his normal" is...This is extremely important with a 30 year-old parrot...
You want a low-fat, low-sugar, high-protein diet for him, so if he's being fed any Seed-Mixes that contain ANY Sunflower Seeds, Peanuts, or Dried pieces or kernels of Corn, then that needs to be changed (really ALL NUTS should be treats only and not a part of a captive/pet parrot's daily-diet because they aren't flying miles each day, or at all right now in the case of your new bird, so this is what will commonly cause Fatty-Liver Disease; Peanuts are horrible for them, full of fat and actually carry a strain of mold that is toxic to birds, so absolutely NO Peanuts)...You want a Seed-Mix that is low-fat, high-Protein, doesn't contain any of the above, and is extremely varied in it's ingredients, containing different lower-fat seeds, grains, legumes, herbs, and veggies...As far as Pellets go, if he's being any type of "Fruit-Flavored" Pellets that are lots of wonderful, bright colors, then that needs to change too, because the Fruit-flavored pellets are also loaded with tons of sugar that turns into fat. You want him eating a "Natural" pellet, the best being Harrison's and TOPS, and also Zupreem Natural. He should also be getting a large portion of fresh veggies (anything but the Onion family, like all Onions, Leeks, Chives, etc., as they are all toxic to birds), and lots of fresh Dark, Leafy Greens (NO watery Lettuces like Iceberg or others, but rather lots of Dark, Leafy Greens, same goes for the fresh Veggies, no Celery, it's all water and no nutrition).../
***Fresh Fruit is NOT interchangable with fresh Veggies and Dark, Leafy Greens, and they should not be given Fruit every day, but rather as an occasional treat maybe 2-3 days a week and in small portions, as all Fruit is loaded with sugars/carbs...So while he needs lots of fresh Veggies and Dark, Leafy Greens every single day, the fresh Fruit should be limited (and NO Avocados, they are toxic to birds, as well as very, very little or NO Citrus Fruit such as Oranges, Grapefruit, Lemons, Limes, etc., as Vitamin C enhances the body's absorption of Iron, and birds cannot handle and do not need much Iron at all; they will develop a condition called "Iron Storage Syndrome/Disease" if they absorb too much Iron, which can be fatal. So if you must feed him Citrus Fruit as an occasional treat, make it a very small piece one time a week maximum; any other fruit is fine like Apples, Bananas, Strawberries, Raspberries, Blueberries, Blackberries, Seedless-Grapes, etc...
The only comment I can make to you about your housing-plans is that while the spare-bedroom you're building-up for him sounds extremely nice, it may not be the best place to keep him in your home, at least not at for the first few months to a year anyway...Parrots are obviously Flock-Animals and are very social, especially B&G's and other Macaws, and the fact of the matter is that the best place to locate your bird's main-cage in your home is in the "main-room" of your home, meaning the room where you and the others who live in the home spend most of their time whenever they are home. Most of the time what people find when they do exactly what you have done by building a wonderful, beautiful "Bird Room" for their new parrot, that is big and open and has tons of stuff to do, play with, climb, swing on, a window with a view to look out of, etc., is that there new parrot doesn't care one bit about any of it (especially when they are first brought into their new home), and they end-up spending most of their time spent in their new "Bird-Room" or "Indoor-Aviary" like you're building screaming their heads off for hours at a time, stopping only whenever someone comes into the room with them...They can also start exhibiting Feather-Destructive Behaviors when they are put in a special room away from where their people/Flock are, especially if they are prior-pluckers...So that room sounds like a great place to put him whenever no one is home, but whenever someone is at home I'd advise you to put either his main-cage (if he is coming with one already or you're buying him an actual cage) or some type of stand/floor-perch in the main-room of your home, where you and the rest spend your time when you're home...Just allowing him to be in the same room as you and the others whenever you're at home and simply watching TV, Reading, on the Computer, Gaming, Talking, Eating your Meals, etc. will not only make him feel like he's a part of your Flock and keep him from continually screaming all day long, but it will certainly also help the bonding/trust-earning process quite a bit (remember, Flock-Animals always want to be with their Flocks and not off in some other room, regardless of how nice it is)...If he knows you are at home/can hear you but he's off in his spare-bedroom Aviary by himself, chances are that he's going to let you know just how much that isn't going to work...So it's a great place to keep him when you're not at home, but as soon as someone is home, he should be moved into your Living Room, Family Room, TV Room, etc., wherever you and the rest of your family spend time together when you're at home...
As far as rehabbing his wings goes...He may never fly again, it may be a matter of muscle-atrophy, it may be a matter of he was kept in a tiny cage for 30 years and he literally doesn't know how to fly, it may be that his original breeder never allowed him to fully-fledge in the first-place, and then he was shoved inside that tiny cage, so he has never flown before at all, nor does he realize that he can...These are all very common scenarios, unfortunately, and how you approach helping him and seeing what he actually can physically and mentally do is going to depend upon how much you are going to be able to handle him, whether he'll step-up for you right away, etc. Just doing simple "Flapping" exercises, where he is standing on your hand/arm and you raise him up and down, while he spreads his wings out and hopefully is able to at least flap them is a great exercise for building-up wing strength...And then also just keeping him that large "Aviary" room whenever no one is home will most-likely also help out some, because as long as he has the room to do so, he will eventually start to at least try to use those wings...I would also highly suggest that you have full X-Rays done by your Certified Avian Vet/Avian Specialist Vet, because you need to know what his Bone-Density is like, what his muscles look like, whether he has any ligament/tendon damage, etc. Just because there are no active-fractures showing doesn't mean there aren't lots of other Orthopedic, Neurological, or Vascular issues that are keeping him from flying, and that needs to be checked-out. And if his overall Bone-Density is bad, then there are medical treatments/nutritional changes that need to be made to start to correct that.
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