8 weeks Blue and gold baby

[weko]

Hello everyone,


Today my wife and I got a blue and gold from a breeder with the Scissor Beak condition, and this is our first time we take care of a Macaw bird so I have few questions if you don't mind answering.
1. Is Scissor Beak a problem for wood chewing or nutshell breaking? how can we cure it?
2. Is it normal that my first eats 5 times a day its weight around 650 grams the thins is each time the parrot won't eat more than 60-75 cc then it refuses to eat. and should i play with the baby or take it to bed
3. When can i start giving the parrot veggies and fruits?
4. When can i start showering the parrot?
5. Is it okay that she doesn't walk more than 3 steps every 30 min almost she doesn't move at all when i take her out of the avairy?
6. When can i start trimming the nails and the Beak?
7. The best age to start training? can i potty train them?
8. When i left her to sleep today she tried to scream, is that okay?
9. How can i play or hug with her at this age?
10. Can she sleeps in the living room while people are talking and tv is on?

Thanks in advance for your time!

https://ibb.co/Z2SLr0k
https://ibb.co/Z2SLr0k

<a href="https://ibb.co/Z2SLr0k"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/NTrVqMH/7d85af7f69b9b60cfa56315bd9bf065.jpg" alt="7d85af7f69b9b60cfa56315bd9bf065" border="0"></a>

 

[noodles123]

WELCOME!!

Scissor beak is a lifetime problem unless corrected early- my adult bird has it (and she did when I got her, as an adult).
You can get it corrected if you deal with it young (like a kid with a retainer)...They do surgeries or can correct the beak other ways, but yes-- it can be a problem.
It can be due to improper weaning or birth defects. NEVER allow someone to trim a beak unless you are 500% sure they know what they are doing!!!!!
scissor beak usually requires frequent beak trimming (or it can create sinus/breathing and eating issues)..but trimming needs can vary by species.
You need to build solid trust before you do anything in terms of training...I will post a massive blurb in a minute. Read the whole thing- especially about petting and shadowy spaces...and Teflon..
Your bird may or may not be able to sleep with the TV on--it's unlikely he/she is getting quality sleep though (quiet doesn't mean sleeping).
Is your baby fully weaned???-- If not, I would make sure the breeder does that job for you--read this -->http://www.parrotforums.com/breeding-raising-parrots/74363-so-you-bought-unweaned-baby.html

Mine does MUCH better with her own room in the dark (with the doors shut)---yes, I know that sounds crazy, but they are sensitive. Yes- some will say, "mine does fine" in noisier areas--but with larger birds, it is especially important that they have decent sleep, and if you are up, they will hear you (because they are flock animals)-even if they don't react...THEY ALL DO--EVEN if they are silent-it's their nature.
I used to live with with her (my bird) in a smaller space and her plucking/anxiety was much higher---getting quality sleep is huge and it sometimes hard to know if they are getting it because you won't necessarily hear them complain about NOT getting it. I am not saying it should be SILENT, but people talking inconsistently will disrupt your bird long-term (IMO)-especially when they reach puberty/adulthood. A TV at least is sort of consistent, but people are not, and footsteps etc will wake them up because in the wild, that would be protective.

Potty training can be done but with EXTREME caution because, like a perfectionist human, birds will hold it in for you and make themselves sick---so, I advise that you label the behavior and praise them anytime they do it "good pooping!" whether in or outside of the cage---this is important. I started telling mine "go poop" when she looked like she was about to go-- then I took her to where I wanted her to poop, but I always praised pooping no matter where it happened....even in the kitchen (ew lol)
Mine is potty trained, but in a healthy way. She doesn't hold it in, but she knows where she SHOULD go.

 

[noodles123]

Here is something I always post for new parrot people---and I want you to really understand, that adopting a parrot is like adopting a 4-year-old child with special needs who never grows up and lives for 20-80+ years (depending on the species). They are extremely complicated pets. That having been said:

Since you are a first-time owner, I am also posting this (because it's stuff you may or may not know, but definitely need to know). If you already know it, disregard.

I am going to write a ton here because it sounds like you are very new to this and there is a lot to learn. I don't mean to overwhelm you!

One really important thing when keeping a pet bird in the house is that you cannot use scented products or chemicals/fumes in your home (even things that smell nice to us(---things like smoke, perfumes, air freshener, standard cleaners, vaping, burning food, incense, cigarettes, glue, paint, window sealing kits, polishes, aerosol sprays etc can harm your bird's sensitive respiratory system (which is not the same as mammals'). Using products that heat or are heated which contain Teflon/PTFE/PFCs = very very dangerous. These products off-gas and can kill a bird in under 5 minutes. Teflon/PTFE/PFOA/PFCs are most commonly found in the kitchen (pots, pans, cookie sheets, drip trays, air fryers, popcorn poppers, baking mats, crock pots, toasters, toaster ovens, popcorn poppers, waffle irons, electric skillets etc. They can also be found in space-heaters, curling irons, blow-dryers, straighteners, heat lamps, heat guns, irons, ironing board covers etc. These fumes have killed birds through closed doors and on separate floors of a home, so you should replace your cookware with stainless steel, cast iron or ceramic. You may be thinking-- well, I have used them before and my bird is fine, but they kill very inconsistently and it depends on what you are cooking, the age of the pot/pan, the specific bird etc. There was a member who lost many of her birds from a pan she had literally used for years...then one day, her husband cooked an egg (without burning or overheating) and many of them died, while the rest showed signs of respiratory distress.

You will need an avian-safe cleaner to use within your home (both on the bird cage, but also, around the house). Again, chemical cleaners cannot be used in the home unless avian safe. F10 SC (the yellow/clear concentrate) is a great, avian-safe disinfectant. Other (less effective) options include products such as "poop-off", white vinegar + water, grapefruit seed extract + water, baking soda etc. Peroxide is also fairly safe for disinfecting places like your bathroom, but you do not want your bird to come into contact with it.

Some foods are toxic to them--avocado, coffee (even decaf), caffeine, rhubarb, alcohol, onions/garlic/leeks/chives, mushrooms etc. Salt is also very bad for them, as is most human food. They love it, but it's not healthy.

They should not just eat seed--you will want to feed lots of washed fresh vegetables. Fruit is fine in moderation, but too much can lead to obesity and behavioral issues due to sugar. I feed my bird a mix of high-quality seed (no sunflowers, no peanuts) and pellets (in addition to fruit/veg). Fruit pits are toxic, as are apple seeds. Corn cob and certain nut shells (if swallowed in big pieces) can cause blockages, so you should be very cautious if you give your bird nuts in the shell. Peanuts can harbor aspergillosis, and should be avoided altogether (even they you often see them marketed towards parrots).

It is important to make sure that your bird's toys and cage are made of safe metals. Stainless steel is safest. They can get metal poisoning from playing with or mouthing objects made of unsafe metals.

They need a set amount of sleep each night (at least 10 hours) and the largest cage you can manage with lots of different perches. You want to avoid the totally smooth/round ones as they can lead to a condition called bumblefoot. Never place a cage near drafts and never allow cool air to blow on a bird. They are sensitive to drafts and any temperature shift greater than 10 degrees can cause a shock to their system.

They need lots of safe toys and safe wood to chew. Not all wood is safe, so don't just assume you can give them any kind you want.

They hide illness and so you have to watch them to make sure they are eating normally and pooping normally etc. You should try to find an avian vet (certified avian) if at all possible and take your bird AT LEAST 1 x yearly for an exam. An avian vet is NOT the same as an exotics vet who sees birds--- so if a certified avian vet is available within a few hours of where you live, you will want to set up care.

All parrots can easily confuse the relationship with their human for a sexual one. You don't want this to happen, even though it seems sweet at first. Stick to petting on the head and neck only (the rest is sexual) and do not allow your bird to play in shadowy places, like boxes or under furniture, as these spaces are similar nesting sites and are hormonal triggers. NO SNUGGLE HUTS/TENTS!

Food and water should be replaced daily--- wash the containers daily. Never leave wet food out for more than a few hours (as it can lead to bacterial growth). Never try to medicate a bird via drinking water and never add vitamins to water. Vitamins can be over-dosed easily and harm a bird. Plus, when you add things to water, it makes it impossible to know how much they have gotten and it also encourages bacterial growth. Sometimes it can prevent them from drinking adequately if they don't like the flavor of whatever it is you added.

These birds have the intelligence of a 4-year-old human, but they are wild animals (not domesticated like dogs). This means that they see the world (and humans) in a very unique way and so you must learn about their behavior in order to prevent problems (screaming, plucking etc). They need lots of time out of their cage daily and a lot of interaction (at least a few hours). At the same time, you don't want to spend TOO much time with a bird of they will become overly dependent and not know what to do with themselves when you go to work etc.

Finally, baby birds are ALWAYS sweet compared to adult birds. When your bird hits puberty, expect that it will exhibit some annoying and problematic behaviors (much like a teen). A through knowledge of behavior and setting expectations at an early age will make your life easier when that time comes, but do prepare yourself and expect that things will not always be so smooth-sailing. Think about a baby human compared to a teen...

I am sure there is more...but that is a basic overview of caring for birds.

Here is an excerpt from another post (which you may want to reference when shopping/ calling about Teflon:
The most insidious is the Teflon/ptfe/pfoa/pfcs because you have to call the company to verify that anything that heats or is intended to be heated does not contain these substances ("PTFE free" doesn't mean PFC free and so there are a lot of marketing gimmicks out there to make people buy what seems like healthier cook-ware, even though it still contains a version of the same chemicals). Also-- these chemicals can be woven into fabric, mixed into metal during the moulding process, applied as a powder, applied as a clear-coat, or mixed with a colored coating. You cannot assume that you will be able to identify them visually, so, when you call, you must provide all abbreviations and full names + spellings of each chemical compound (and then they usually give you "the run around" for a week or so IF they ever answer your questions at all---because sometimes it's a "trade secret"). It's all very sketchy and DuPont (manufacturer of Teflon) claims that off-gassing only occurs at really high temperatures, but there have been numerous documented/scientific and anecdotal reports of birds passing away at temperatures in the 300 F range (and again, it kills through closed doors and on different floors).
FYI- Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)
A perfluorinated compound (PFC)
Teflon (a common brand-name of non-stick cookware containing these chemicals)

10- 12 hours nightly for sleep, so if you get up at 6 and make a bunch of noise, you will wake the bird up (even if they are still covered). If they wake up at 6, bed should be between 6-8. You want to keep it around the same time if possible (because that's how it is in nature).

Food- I leave a high quality mix of pellets and some seed in my bird's cage (no peanuts, no sunflowers, avoid fillers like corn etc)..Fruit/veg daily (more veg than fruit if at all possible--and not too much fruit). Citrus and fruits high in vitamin C should be given in extreme moderation because they can cause "Iron Storage Disease" (for a cockatoo, 1 small tangerine slice 1-2 times a week was okay, according to my vet). She gets something interesting/ cooked (no salt or sugar or unsafe spaces-- like a grain) 2x daily as well but she is picky as heck, so you have to watch it because some birds will fill up on one thing and not get proper nutrients or they will eat too much and become obese.


OH-- something I didn't mention in my last post-- stainless steel is really one of the only safe metals for them. Research the heck out of your cage and make sure that if it uses a powder-coating it is truly non-toxic. Birds can get metal poisoning from playing with sketchy toys (many made in China do not adhere to best practices) and just mouthing things like money, bolts, locks etc can cause toxic impacts...A man I know allowed his bird to play with un-used toothbrushes and (unbeknownst to him) there were small copper bits that held the bristles in place-- this nearly killed his bird even though the bird didn't actually swallow the pieces

 

[weko]

that's helpful really, i wanna reach that level of healthy poopy training its a satisfaction.

where i live we don't have specialized vets for parrots and I' am really worried letting anyone touching my parrot experimenting on her how to fix the beak issue. i really don't know what i should do now with the beak

https://ibb.co/FhZ7Z4Z

 

[weko]

thanks alot for this very usful information, but u mentioned a teen parrot, will it become aggressive? when it will happen and how to avoid biting at that age?

 

[LaManuka]

Sorry to say, but the most pressing issue here is that you have a baby bird on your hands who was way too young to be sold. Have you read the following link yet that noodles recommended?

http://www.parrotforums.com/breeding-raising-parrots/74363-so-you-bought-unweaned-baby.html

No baby bird should be sold before it has been independently eating solid adult food for a good few weeks, which in the case of macaws would be around the age of 20 weeks or so. Even then they have often been known to regress and want baby formula again for a bit. Weaning is a very precarious time in a young bird’s life and can easily result in heartbreak, so i would urge you to seek support from a bird vet or the breeder, if not actually return it to the breeder to finish the job properly.

 

[weko]

Trust me he doesnt care. i am sure i can give him a better life