is this budgie ok?

Hello,
I bought this budgie more then 3 weeks ago and since then i have noticed her looking messy. Her feather are unorganized. She eats and drinks regularly. Plays all the time but feather doesn't look like the other budgie. Any idea why and i need to do anything?

Thanks in advance!!

samkam said:

Hello,
I bought this budgie more then 3 weeks ago and since then i have noticed her looking messy. Her feather are unorganized. She eats and drinks regularly. Plays all the time but feather doesn't look like the other budgie. Any idea why and i need to do anything?

Thanks in advance!!

Click to expand...

Those feathers do look kind of rough. Did you quarantine and test your birds (as well as this one) prior to introducing him/her (Assuming you have others?) If you did quarantine, how long, and if you did test, what tests?

Have you weighed him/her?
How is the diet?
How big is the cage?
Any other birds in your home (anywhere in the house)?
How old is the bird?
What is the bird's backstory/where did you get him/her?
Does this bird live in the same cage with other birds?
How old is he/she?

Have you weighed him/her? NO
How is the diet? She eats good
How big is the cage? cage is decent size
Any other birds in your home? i have 2 cages (2 birds each in a cage)
How old is the bird? i was told 3 months
What is the bird's backstory/where did you get him/her? i got from some guy

What is she eating?
how big is the cage?
did you quarantine her from your other birds and if so, how long?
is this "guy" someone you trust (in terms of her age?) If she is super young, those feathers COULD be normal...but what color is her cere? Have you had her tested to verify that she is female?
was she alone or with other birds when you got her?

Sorry for all of the questions, but these details really do matter if you want an answer.

SOO.... you have her with another bird (same cage)? What is that bird's gender and age???? You can't just plop two birds together....there is a lot that could be going on here if you just randomly stuck 2 unquarantined, ungendered birds in the same cage w/o knowing age, or background...Heck, even if you knew all of that, there is always the potential for problems when you put 2 birds together...so I am genuinely trying to answer, but I need more info.

What is she eating?she eats spray millet,carrots, bought seeds from Walmart

how big is the cage? i dont know i have to measure

how old is the bird?3 months i was told

did you quarantine?actually i bought all 4 bird from the same guy

is this "guy" someone you trust (in terms of her age?) he is an old guys who said he is doing this for last 20 years(guy must be 60+)

is she housed with other birds in the same cage? initially i bought one big cage and bird together but as she is young other bird were not letting her eat so i bought another cage where she is alone. she looks happy alone. since i moved her she eats,drinks and sleep well.

was she alone or with other birds when you got her?i am not sure about that how did that guy kept this bird. He said he has few more bird too which he is going to sell.

Okay...so, you need to change that diet ASAP, but DO NOT just cut her/them off of what they are used to eating (but Walmart seeds are not healthy). Think of weaning someone off of drugs or alcohol-- you don't do it cold-turkey (birds are stubborn enough to starve when cut off from what they know.) You need to start integrating pellets into her diet, along with fresh vegetables and chop (keep seeds in the cage, but try to get her to eat other things). Seeds should be a small part of her daily diet and sunflower seeds should be s treat only...You need a high quality seed mix and some high quality pellets-- also, not all vegetables are safe.. Feeding birds an all-seed diet will slowly kill them though. Birds can take a long time to adapt to new foods and environments, so you must be patient and really think this through. I know your budgies were probably not that expensive, but they are VERY smart (as smart as large parrots) so they really need a large space and healthy diet.

If you don't have a certified avian vet, you need to find one because birds can spread and carry deadly diseases without ever showing symptoms themselves. The fact that you bought them all from the same guy at least means that they were likely already exposed to any viruses, but she could have a vurus (even if the others look okay). There is a lot that could be going on and only a vet will be able to tell you for sure (not a dog and cat vet, but a bird vet--who specializes in birds). Exotics vets can work in a pinch, but they know a lot less and are not the best with birds in a lot of cases, even though they are usually better than nothing.

Have you had birds before these?

You should consider buying food online or at a parrot supply shop

"You need a high quality seed mix and some high quality pellets"

if possible can you share me a link from of some food i can buy on Amazon as in local store i dont see much options beside seeds

So, pellets can be a tougher sell if a bird has never had them...but it depends on your bird and it will likely take time to get them to try them etc-- there are a ton of threads on here devoted to that topic.

Tops is a good pellet brand, Harrison's is popular, Zupreem is popular but not AS healthy (it's like the lower-tier of accepted pellets---my bird only likes this, so I feed the tropical blend to her, but I wish she would eat something else, because it is not the best at all--you can get it at Petsmart, but again, not the best----respectable, but barely lol--like the "Lucky Charms" of the pellet world in some respects)...Tops is honestly probably the best..Oh, and RoudyBush..Harrison's is well-respected, but I looked at the ingredients and I dislike the amount of corn used in the base. All are on Amazon (btw)

In terms of seed mixes:

Tops also has decent seed mixes. You want to avoid sunflower seeds in any mix. If those are in a seed mix, pass it by. Volkman's mixes can be kind of okay but some contain peanuts (not entirely safe) and corn-- I think they DO sell a smaller bird variety though and I am less familiar with it...

Peanuts should also be avoided due to aflatoxins and aspergillus, although I see sunflower seeds as a bigger red-flag in mixes. Sunflowers are like the ultimate filler with low nutritional value and a lot of fat-- and bird LOVE them, so they fill up on them and get kind of addicted.
Corn is also a filler to some extent, so just make sure whatever you get isn't filled with sunflower seeds, peanuts and a bunch of carby fillers like corn and pasta. In moderation, sunflower seeds and corn/pasta etc can be fed as treats, but shouldn't be a part of their daily food.

I don't currently own a budgie, so maybe see what others say they use for theirs, but the basics of what I have told you do apply.

Harrison's pellets (there are other sizes too)--very well respected among "bird people" lol: https://www.amazon.com/Harrisons-Adult-Lifetime-Super-Fine/dp/B009N29CUU

so, here is a lower quality pellet/seed blend by Zupreem that I wouldn't necessarily recommend but that a lot of people use (I use this brand because it is all my bird will eat--but I would GLADLY switch to a better one if she weren't so stubborn) : https://www.amazon.com/Sensible-See...ords=parakeet+seed+mix&qid=1594158518&sr=8-33 (the ingredients contain added color, corn and sugar, which is why it isn't ideal--that having been said, a bird eating this is better than just seeds)

another Zupreem (pellets only)- this is the mini-version of what I use, but again, it is NOT the best..even though it is better than nothing (like the Lucky Charms of cereals with regard to pellets):https://www.amazon.com/Zupreem-2303...AADYX37VYM7&psc=1&refRID=G4S1VYS8NAADYX37VYM7

Here is a better (but not perfect) pellet variety by Zupreem (fewer additives) https://www.amazon.com/ZuPreem-Natu...HH3EBFM6KCS&psc=1&refRID=DFVTG8SJWHH3EBFM6KCS

Avoid "Pure Fun" Zupreem (it's too junky but can be okay as a treat).

Tops pellets-well-respected (healthier than Zupreem)- https://www.amazon.com/TOPs-Parrot-...s+budgie&qid=1594158944&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-1

RoudyBush is also well-respected for pellets (also healthier than Zupreem) https://www.amazon.com/RoudyBush-Daily-Maintenance-Crumbles-44-Ounce/dp/B000WFEK0Y

Psittacus is another decent (but very obscure in the US) pellet brand....Not on Amazon..https://www.gardenfeathers.co.uk/parrot-pellets-and-complete-diets/psittacus-maintenance-mini.html (this size may be too large for a budgie, so research further before buying).


Here is a Tops option for seeds (not the only one) but this one appears to be the wet-soak type...which is not ideal for all-day use in the cage:
https://www.amazon.com/Totally-Organics-Napoleons-Seed-Mix/dp/B00LAT139C

***This one MAY be one of the best seed mixes for budgies (not sure-- just found it)-- I am not familiar with it, but it looks pretty good overall in terms of ingredients: https://www.amazon.com/Dr-HarveyS-P...JW2V3Q7PV4G&psc=1&refRID=E0DWA7Q0JJW2V3Q7PV4G

EVEN is what they are eating is bad for them, DO NOT just get rid of it--- you have to wean them off of everything, so....try to get them onto healthier seeds and pellets, but even that shift has to be gradual. Again, ultimately, you want them eating more veg and pellets than seeds, but some high-quality seeds are okay, as long as that isn't what they are filling up on daily...Parkeets can eat more seeds than some birds, but they shouldn't be all that they eat.

It is rare to find even a high-end Seed Mix that does not contain sunflower seed. That said, there is nothing wrong with pulling out what you do not want out and mixing it with the left behind seed your Parrot did not to eat today and feed it to the Wild Birds!

SailBoat said:

It is rare to find even a high-end Seed Mix that does not contain sunflower seed. That said, there is nothing wrong with pulling out what you do not want out and mixing it with the left behind seed your Parrot did not to eat today and feed it to the Wild Birds!

Click to expand...

Dr. Harvey's, Tops and Volkmann's seed mixes do not contain them---looks like Zupreem's blend for small birds does contain them (so I would remove them, which is a pain).

Here is some info on transitioning parakeets from seeds to pellets: https://homekeethome.com/2020/05/21/transitioning-parakeets-to-new-food/

Here is a good video on foods (minus how she holds her conure which could easily be problematic due to the sexual nature of touching a bird on its back for too long)-Generally, this girl is a REALLY good YouTube resource, and I only found he recently, SO I am not just repeating what she said because of her videos lol!!! People have been saying this stuff forever, it is just hard to find it in one place, and she does a good job: [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-EPSh0pWHw"]YouTube[/ame]--again, budgies CAN have a bit more in the way of seeds than say, a conure or a cockatiel, but you still don't want it to be all they are eating.

Here's some stuff on healthy veg etc:

Stick with more veg than fruit...too much fruit can lead to obesity and behavior issues due to all of the natural sugars. Your bird can have fruit, but keep in mind that a whole grape to a medium-sized bird would be like 300 grapes to a human....

Things they shouldn't have/toxic:
avocado, rhubarb, onion, garlic, chives, leeks, shallots, honey, mushrooms, apple seeds, mango SKIN or pit, fruit pits, artificial sweeteners, caffeine, alcohol, coffee (no regular no decaf), tomato leaves/stems, raw beans, dry beans (also avoid canned beans due to sodium and preservatives), *CERTAIN BEANS---EVEN WHEN COOKED---are still toxic!*, chocolate, raw potatoes, black walnuts, Peanuts (contain aflatoxins and can harbor aspergillus---I know they are in lots of cheap mixes, but they are not good)...oh technically, Chinese cinnamon too

To be avoided but not necessarily toxic: dairy (they are lactose intolerant---but a teeny tiny bit as a treat is not going to kill them.

Sugars and salt should not be added to their foods. If they have a teeny tiny bit on something as a treat that is okay, but you don't want them to be eating this stuff regularly.

Tomato (if given) should be in EXTREME moderation and without any stems/leaves (toxic)--I don't give mine tomato really... They are very acidic and can cause issues if too much is given. Citrus fruit should also be given in extreme moderation, as too much vitamin c can cause iron storage disease.


Celery and snap peas can be too stringy and cause blockages, so you need to be careful with stringy vegetables. Nuts in shells can cause blockages if your bird eats the shell...so be very careful.

High fat foods should be given in moderation--- this includes seeds. Too much fat or too many calories can lead to fatty liver disease and other issues.

Certain vegetables should be cooked before giving them to your bird---also, certain really starchy vegetables (like corn) should be reserved for treats as they don't have a ton of nutritional value.

Certain seasonings can be poisonous in higher amounts--there haven't been a lot of studies, so it's best to avoid things like nutmeg, cloves etc...
In terms of cinnamon-- there are 2 types and one is not safe, while the other is. Chinese cinnamon should be avoided (not safe--it contains a blood thinner), Ceylon cinnamon is okay.


You can try looking up "chop" recipes online--- these are basically mixtures of chopped veg (cooked and sometimes raw) usually mixed with a grain like rice, quinoa, potato etc.

here is my copy-and-paste-"new to birds" speech: -In case you are! Sorry it's soo long!

"Here is something I always post for new parrot people. They are extremely complicated pets. If you already know all this, disregard.

One really important thing when keeping a pet bird in the house is that you cannot use scented products or chemicals/fumes in your home (even things that smell nice to us(---things like smoke, perfumes, air freshener, standard cleaners, vaping, burning food, incense, cigarettes, glue, paint, window sealing kits, polishes, aerosol sprays etc can harm your bird's sensitive respiratory system (which is not the same as mammals'). Using products that heat or are heated which contain Teflon/PTFE/PFCs = very very dangerous. These products off-gas and can kill a bird in under 5 minutes. Teflon/PTFE/PFOA/PFCs are most commonly found in the kitchen (pots, pans, cookie sheets, drip trays, air fryers, popcorn poppers, baking mats, crock pots, toasters, toaster ovens, popcorn poppers, waffle irons, electric skillets etc. They can also be found in space-heaters, curling irons, blow-dryers, straighteners, heat lamps, heat guns, irons, ironing board covers etc. These fumes have killed birds through closed doors and on separate floors of a home, so you should replace your cookware with stainless steel, cast iron or ceramic. You may be thinking-- well, I have used them before and my bird is fine, but they kill very inconsistently and it depends on what you are cooking, the age of the pot/pan, the specific bird etc. There was a member who lost many of her birds from a pan she had literally used for years...then one day, her husband cooked an egg (without burning or overheating) and many of them died, while the rest showed signs of respiratory distress.

You will need an avian-safe cleaner to use within your home (both on the bird cage, but also, around the house). Again, chemical cleaners cannot be used in the home unless avian safe. F10 SC (the yellow/clear concentrate) is a great, avian-safe disinfectant. Other (less effective) options include products such as "poop-off", white vinegar + water, grapefruit seed extract + water, baking soda etc. Peroxide is also fairly safe for disinfecting places like your bathroom, but you do not want your bird to come into contact with it.

Some foods are toxic to them--avocado, coffee (even decaf), caffeine, rhubarb, alcohol, onions/garlic/leeks/chives, mushrooms etc. Salt is also very bad for them, as is most human food. They love it, but it's not healthy.

They should not just eat seed--you will want to feed lots of washed fresh vegetables. Fruit is fine in moderation, but too much can lead to obesity and behavioral issues due to sugar. I feed my bird a mix of high-quality seed (no sunflowers, no peanuts) and pellets (in addition to fruit/veg). Fruit pits are toxic, as are apple seeds. Corn cob and certain nut shells (if swallowed in big pieces) can cause blockages, so you should be very cautious if you give your bird nuts in the shell. Peanuts can harbor aspergillosis, and should be avoided altogether (even they you often see them marketed towards parrots).

It is important to make sure that your bird's toys and cage are made of safe metals. Stainless steel is safest. They can get metal poisoning from playing with or mouthing objects made of unsafe metals.

They need a set amount of sleep each night (at least 10 hours) and the largest cage you can manage with lots of different perches. You want to avoid the totally smooth/round ones as they can lead to a condition called bumblefoot. Never place a cage near drafts and never allow cool air to blow on a bird. They are sensitive to drafts and any temperature shift greater than 10 degrees can cause a shock to their system.

They need lots of safe toys and safe wood to chew. Not all wood is safe, so don't just assume you can give them any kind you want.

They hide illness and so you have to watch them to make sure they are eating normally and pooping normally etc. You should try to find an avian vet (certified avian) if at all possible and take your bird AT LEAST 1 x yearly for an exam. An avian vet is NOT the same as an exotics vet who sees birds--- so if a certified avian vet is available within a few hours of where you live, you will want to set up care.

All parrots can easily confuse the relationship with their human for a sexual one. You don't want this to happen, even though it seems sweet at first. Stick to petting on the head and neck only (the rest is sexual) and do not allow your bird to play in shadowy places, like boxes or under furniture, as these spaces are similar nesting sites and are hormonal triggers. NO SNUGGLE HUTS/TENTS!

Food and water should be replaced daily--- wash the containers daily. Never leave wet food out for more than a few hours (as it can lead to bacterial growth). Never try to medicate a bird via drinking water and never add vitamins to water. Vitamins can be over-dosed easily and harm a bird. Plus, when you add things to water, it makes it impossible to know how much they have gotten and it also encourages bacterial growth. Sometimes it can prevent them from drinking adequately if they don't like the flavor of whatever it is you added.

These birds have the intelligence of a 3 to 4-year-old human, but they are wild animals (not domesticated like dogs). This means that they see the world (and humans) in a very unique way and so you must learn about their behavior in order to prevent problems (screaming, plucking etc). They need lots of time out of their cage daily and a lot of interaction (at least a few hours). At the same time, you don't want to spend TOO much time with a bird of they will become overly dependent and not know what to do with themselves when you go to work etc.

Finally, baby birds are ALWAYS sweet compared to adult birds. When your bird hits puberty, expect that it will exhibit some annoying and problematic behaviors (much like a teen). A through knowledge of behavior and setting expectations at an early age will make your life easier when that time comes, but do prepare yourself and expect that things will not always be so smooth-sailing. Think about a baby human compared to a teen...

I am sure there is more...but that is a basic overview of caring for birds.

Here is an excerpt from another post (which you may want to reference when shopping/ calling about Teflon:
The most insidious is the Teflon/ptfe/pfoa/pfcs because you have to call the company to verify that anything that heats or is intended to be heated does not contain these substances ("PTFE free" doesn't mean PFC free and so there are a lot of marketing gimmicks out there to make people buy what seems like healthier cook-ware, even though it still contains a version of the same chemicals). Also-- these chemicals can be woven into fabric, mixed into metal during the moulding process, applied as a powder, applied as a clear-coat, or mixed with a colored coating. You cannot assume that you will be able to identify them visually, so, when you call, you must provide all abbreviations and full names + spellings of each chemical compound (and then they usually give you "the run around" for a week or so IF they ever answer your questions at all---because sometimes it's a "trade secret"). It's all very sketchy and DuPont (manufacturer of Teflon) claims that off-gassing only occurs at really high temperatures, but there have been numerous documented/scientific and anecdotal reports of birds passing away at temperatures in the 300 F range (and again, it kills through closed doors and on different floors).
FYI- Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)
A perfluorinated compound (PFC)
Teflon (a common brand-name of non-stick cookware containing these chemicals)

10- 12 hours nightly for sleep, so if you get up at 6 and make a bunch of noise, you will wake the bird up (even if they are still covered). If they wake up at 6, bed should be between 6-8. You want to keep it around the same time if possible (because that's how it is in nature).

Food- I leave a high quality mix of pellets and some seed in my bird's cage (no peanuts, no sunflowers, avoid fillers like corn etc)..Fruit/veg daily (more veg than fruit if at all possible--and not too much fruit). Citrus and fruits high in vitamin C should be given in extreme moderation because they can cause "Iron Storage Disease" (for a cockatoo, 1 small tangerine slice 1-2 times a week was okay, according to my vet). She gets something interesting/ cooked (no salt or sugar or unsafe spaces-- like a grain) 2x daily as well but she is picky as heck, so you have to watch it because some birds will fill up on one thing and not get proper nutrients or they will eat too much and become obese.


OH-- something I didn't mention in my last post-- stainless steel is really one of the only safe metals for them. Research the heck out of your cage and make sure that if it uses a powder-coating it is truly non-toxic. Birds can get metal poisoning from playing with sketchy toys (many made in China do not adhere to best practices) and just mouthing things like money, bolts, locks etc can cause toxic impacts...A man I know allowed his bird to play with un-used toothbrushes and (unbeknownst to him) there were small copper bits that held the bristles in place-- this nearly killed his bird even though the bird didn't actually swallow the pieces."

Do you see the male grooming her? He might be chewing her feathers

Most parakeet mixes don't contain much sunflower or safflower seed, it's usually mostly in the ones for larger birds.

Unlike the larger birds, keeping More-than-1 per-cage for Budgies usually IS a good idea. Keep an eye, if they fight or, as you say wiht this one perhaps possibly getting picked on, then you would separate.

Looking at the pictures, your cage is a size that I would've gotten when I first got mine but would recommend upgrading to much larger at some future time if possible. Do they get out-of-cage time too?

From your pictures I'm gonna also Guess that she's a She. Definitely only a Guess! You say her behavior seems normal other than the fruffled feathers, right? Has she been preening? I'm sure the others must be preening if they look normal, but has She been?

Do you offer them baths or spray-bottle showers? It could be that she just needs something like that... although... IF IF she's fluffed due to not-feeling well, that might Not be a great idea either. IF you want to try, put a cover over half her cage, and start by spraying a really Light mist, only get her just enough so she knows what's happening. Then spray only one area of the cage. IF she wants to get wet she can, but if not, she doesn't have to, she can avoid. She should have an Opinion. IF you get her a Little Bit wet and she doesn't care either way, or seems listless, then stop immediately! Also, make sure the room is warm when you try this.

Speaking of temperature, since you say the Other budgies are Not fluffed like that, I'm assuming the room is Not chilly. BUT. But do make sure she's not catching some direct A/C, or a draft, etc. OR if the room IS chilly she could just be More temperature-sensitive. So make sure the room is a comfortable temperature.

Otherwise, if it's Not simply that she's in need of a bath, or cold, I'd be a little concerned. IF she's staying fruffled up like that all the time. Could be moulting but in the pics Im not seeing a lot of pinfeathers. And - I wouldn't recommend startling your birds -- but IF they get startled, does she get Smooth? (She should.) If she's really looking like that All the time, and especially if she doesn't get Smooth when startled, I wonder if maybe you might want to get her checked out by an Avian vet.

As is written on this website all the time, birds DO hide illness. And unusual fluffing can be one of the signs that something might be wrong. So potentially a consult with a vet might be in order.

REgarding food:
I've had my budgies more than a year and only fairly recently have they been willing to sometimes eat pellets. But you should try. Harrison's pellets are good ones. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040QAESI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As far as the seeds, the ones Noodles linked above ( https://go.skimresources.com/?id=16...43d8240d&abp=1&xjsf=other_click__auxclick [2] ) are certainly my favorite also. Also Higgins Sunburst for parakeets is another great mix. https://www.amazon.com/Higgins-Sunb...+higgins&qid=1594166079&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-5 .

Also I clip lettuce and broccoli's to the inside cage walls. This will sccare them at first -- ANYthing new is scary to a budgie -- but after a few days or more of doing this they may come around, start exploring these "toys," and realize they love chewing & eating them.

fiddlejen said:

Most parakeet mixes don't contain much sunflower or safflower seed, it's usually mostly in the ones for larger birds.

Unlike the larger birds, keeping more-than-1 per-cage for budgies is usually a good idea. Keep an eye, if they fight or, as you say wiht this one possibly gettin picked on, then you would separate.

Looking at the pictures, your cage is a size that I would've gotten when I first got mine but would recommend upgrading to much larger at some future time if possible.

I'm gonna also Guess that she's a She. You say her behavior seems normal other than the fruffled feathers, right? Has she been preening? I'm sure the others must be preening if they look normal but has she been?

Do you offer them baths or spray-bottle showers? It could be that she just needs something like that... although... IF IF she's fluffed due to not-feeling well, that might Not be a great idea either. IF you want to try, put a cover over half her cage, and start by spraying a really Light mist, only get her just enough so she knows what's happening. Then spray only one area of the cage. IF she wants to get wet she can, but if not, she doesn't have to.

Otherwise, if it's Not simply that she's in need of a bath, or cold, I'd be a little concerned. IF she's staying fruffled up like that all the time. Could be moulting but in the pics Im not seeing a lot of pinfeathers. And - I wouldn't recommend startling your birds -- but IF they get startled, does she get Smooth? (She should.) If she's really looking like that All the time, I wonder if maybe you might want to get her checked out by an Avian vet. (I assume the room is Not chilly, if the other budgies are Not fluffed like that. But do make sure she's not catching some direct A/C, or a draft, etc.)

As is written on this website all the time, birds DO hide illness. And unusual fluffing can be one of the signs that something might be wrong. So potentially a consult with a vet might be in order.

REgarding food:
I've had my budgies more than a year and only fairly recently have they been willing to sometimes eat pellets. But you should try. Harrison's pellets are good ones. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040QAESI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As far as the seeds, the ones Noodles linked above ( https://go.skimresources.com/?id=16...43d8240d&abp=1&xjsf=other_click__auxclick [2] ) are certainly my favorite also. Also Higgins Sunburst for parakeets is another great mix. https://www.amazon.com/Higgins-Sunb...+higgins&qid=1594166079&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-5 .

Also I clip lettuce and broccoli's to the inside cage walls. This will sccare them at first -- ANYthing new is scary to a budgie -- but after a few days or more of doing this they may come around, start exploring these "toys," and realize they love chewing & eating them.

Click to expand...

I didn't mean to say you can never keep them together, but just dropping them in together without quarantine or introduction was my issue/concern ...Plus, anytime you have a male and female, it is VERY important to be aware of their age/genders etc , as you may end up in over-your-head with a breeding issue (which can lead to things like babies and egg-binding)

Can you get a much closer shot of your bird? It may be French Moult going by what I can see.

Talven said:

Can you get a much closer shot of your bird? It may be French Moult going by what I can see.

Click to expand...

A French moult is polyoma virus---not saying it is, but "French moult" confused me the first time I heard someone say it.