My parror Darius, male, no longer want's to (or can) fly. He sleeps up on a high bookshelf, on white paper (so he won't give my books a crust) which I regularily change. His cage is on a lower level, arround the middle of the room height. He used to carzily fly arround, chirp, play, sing dance etc. Then once he got scared, tried to fly but fell to the ground and lost a few tailfeathers. This caused him to fall again a few times and loose wing feathers. I checked for any damage, but everything seems ok. Now he started molting. White spikes all over his head, fluff and small feathers all over the floor. He scrathes a lot, cleans his few wing feathers and the rest of the feathers most of the day. He only flies down to his cage, and would have his cage then manually lifted up so he can fly to the bookshelf in an almost straight line. No more rounds around the room, no more crazy yelling. Some sessions of singing, dancing and socializing, but mostly grooming, sleeping and sometimes flapping his wings without flying. It is really hot here so I can see him having problems with the heat. Arround his neck there are places where feathers are a lot scarcer. I think he might have been pulling them out because it is hot. I looked as much as I could, he won't let me touch him yet, and in the right wing there are only 3 or 4 fully grown feathers. The new ones are barely half the size. Should he be able to fly, but has a problem? Are his wing feathers not developed enough yet? Any idea what I could do to help him fly as he did a month and a half ago? I can see he is quite frustrated, so I try to offer as much support as I can...
Won't fly anymore?
- Thread starter Matthew
- Start date
Flboy
Well-known member
- Dec 28, 2014
- 12,601
- 4,106
- Parrots
- JoJo, 'Special' GCC, Bongo, Cinnamon GCC(wife's)
Hi, is your buddy getting any baths?
- Thread Starter
- Thread starter
- #3
I never gave him a bath before because he would only let my face get close to him, but recently I tried spraying cold water over him. He seemed to enjoy, so do it more often, but I have only been doing this for 3 days now.
In my opinion spraying cold water isn't good idea it couses your bird catch a cold, water should be warm and your bird should be under the sun light to dry him self.
here are some tips for giving bath to a parrot
Bathing Your Parrot, Simply and Safely - For Dummies
here are some tips for giving bath to a parrot
Bathing Your Parrot, Simply and Safely - For Dummies
Need a lot more information about you and your birdie in order to offer meaningful suggestions. What kind, how old, how long you have him, whats he eating, whats his cage look like.... as much info you can give will make the suggestions more meaning ful.
plumsmum2005
New member
As Wrench says it would be helpful to us if you could give us more info. What species Darius is, is he overweight, have any health issues, been to a vet at all/recently.
I think there is enough here to ask you to have a health check done by an Avian Vet. Not sure re will fly down but won't fly up, flying down as far as I can recall is harder??? Please fill in the blanks and tell us anything else that is relevant.
- Thread Starter
- Thread starter
- #7
Darius is deffinetly a lovebird, (that is why I posted here) but I have no idea what kind of lovebird. He is 4 years old, I'd say, since I have had him for about 3 years. When he was young he looked like a fischeri with a white beak, something I had not seen before. For almost a complete 3 years his color has been fully red/cherry. Since this happend before to another parrot that lived happily until an unfortunate door accident (changed his color back to original after about 3-4 years, the first parrot), I tend to believe it is not necesarily a bad thing, although I am trying to fix Darius' nutrition just in any case. All his life he has been eating a mix of seeds, including the dreaded sunflower, yes. He would rather starve to death than eat a fruit or vegetable. I am trying to give him vitamins in his food, (seeds coated in vitamins they said, frankly I am quite skeptical) and will also try dried fruits/ maybe pellets, water vitamins. He doesn't seem overweight. I checked for most signs and he seems to be in good shape. The chest bone is protuberant, as it should be, Darius eats a lot of calcium, therefore his beak is rather fine looking. He is also rather active and lately likes to flap wings without flying... His cage is a medium sized one and tends to look like a chineese building, with those over lapped roofs, bur Darius only goes there to eat, drink, sharpen his beak, sometimes simply to stay there or watch himself in the mirror. He hasn't been to a vet, because frankly the only vet that could know something is barely a guy who tends to know a few things about birds, but not an avian vet. No avian vet in the proximity, only guys with opinions... I might also throw in a wild guess: could falling too much and having all those nasty accidents before have affected Darius psychologically? Seen the film Rio? Something like that. Whenever he has to fly he seems rather nervous. I try not to lift the cage up too much and go a little bit lower and farther away each day I lift it up, so he can get used to flying again. Last year during molting (and falling like a blasted falling star on the carped) something similar happened, but I did not lift the cage back then so he would have to force himself into flying up (and many time not succeed). Now he won't even try flying up if I don't lift his cage even one inch above normal level. When he wants up he usually looks up there pointing his head upwards. Maybe I should just let him try? I am afraid though, I don't want him banging his head all over the floor now. He is definetly in molting season, I've heared the bird might feel a bit blue and scrath a lot in this period, and scratching is one of the things Darius does best. I can see his head iching, he scratches with his feet, or gently rubs his head on certaing surfaces. I've read molting may cause a bird to fly less? Here are some pictures.
![IMG_20151225_145123[1].jpg](https://www.parrotforums.com/data/attachments/9/9539-4e753d2d50a5e7a171d7186bf22cac01.jpg "IMG_20151225_145123[1].jpg")
![IMG_20160626_171656[1].jpg](https://www.parrotforums.com/data/attachments/9/9542-7b291e2c4655bdeb1daa7438757eeb03.jpg "IMG_20160626_171656[1].jpg")
Last edited:
plumsmum2005
New member
Hi again, thanks for the additional info and wow what a wonderful little guy he is, stunning.
Hoping a lovey owner comes on but in the meantime I am adding links of info for you https://lafeber.com/pet-birds/species/lovebird/
http://www.birdchannel.com/bird-species/find-the-right-bird/lovebirds.aspx
Re the cage - the situation of him not liking his cage needs to be dealt with I think. Have you tried moving the things inside around? Anything that scares him ie toy? Not enough toys/mirrors etc? Are the perches correct for him and to be able to get around well enough?
Food - this is something that probably does need some focus.
This link may give you some answers http://www.birdsnways.com/wisdom/ww49eiii.htm as it is fairly informative. copy n paste as link wont work properly
Three of the nine species, including the Madagascar, Redfaced, and Abyssinian, are sexually dimorphic. Dimorphic simply means sexing can be accomplished visually.
Four of the nine species are from the Eye Ring group, having a white ring surrounding the eyes. They are Fischer's, Nyasa, Black-cheeked, and Masked. It is said all Eye Rings make excellent foster parents for other Eye Rings. The Peachfaced and Black-collared are in the Non Eye Ring group.
Sizes range from 4", as in the Fischer's, to 7", as in the Peachfaced. Weights generally range from 50-60 grams and females tend to be larger than the males, and for the most part, more aggressive as well.
Lovebirds are beautiful displays of color; blue, yellow, olive, orange, and grey. Only the budgerigar comes in a wider array of colors. There are 17 Peachfaced mutations alone, allowing well over 100,000 color mutations.
PERSONALITY AND CHARACTERISTICS
It is recommended you do not house a lovebird alone. Indicative of their name, they regard each other with deep fondness and affection. They show an especially intenseurge for bonding. It is a characteristic deeply imbedded in them. They will even bond to their same sex.
It is important for lovebirds to give each other, and receive, constant assurance and acknowledgement. These needs are satisfied by frequent contact, as in kissing and preening, or may come in a more serious manner, such as painful nips and bites.
Lovebirds are prone to loud, vocal outbursts. These usually are during times of alarm or excitement. Although they are not singers, their chirps, squeals, and chortles, make a music of their own. They dearly love to chatter and talk amongst themselves. If your desire is for a quiet bird, lovebirds are definitely not for you!
Without doubt, I hear my two lovebirds talk. They say one word, or phrase, in quick repitition. Morning feeding time is deemed our "quality time" together. I talk and babble on, all the while commanding gently, "Up, up!" This is to help me clean and feed without hassle while they are "up" and out of the way. While the enunciation of the words are unclear, the tone and rythm are as my own.
I believe most any bird can be taught to talk with enough patience and perseverance. However, it does not make or break the birds personality. A lovebird who willl never utter a word or phrase, has the full capacity to give joy and live an enriched, purposeful life.
HOUSING AND MAINTENANCE
Your lovebird should not be housed alone. Your lovebird pair should be housed in a cage with dimensions no less than 18x18x12". Bar spacing should be no more than 3/4". This size will ensure plenty of space to fly and flitter about, and if so desired, the freedom of each bird from each other. Birds need "personal space" too!
Round cages are not recommended for they offer no place for them to "hide". Square cages provide corners for a bird to face into, resulting in a feeling of invisibility, safety, and security.
Cage cleaning should be done daily, complete disinfecting on a weekly basis. This includes food/water dishes as well. Water dishes accumulate bacteria at an alarming rate. This could promote illness in your bird.
Cleanliness of a cage is a top priority for the health of your lovebird. In the wild, birds do not come in direct contact with their droppings. Birds excrete between 25-50 times per day, depending on size. A brooding female will excrete out of the nest, and chicks in the nest instinctively wriggle up and back, out of the nest to excrete. Don't give your lovebird an opportunity to come into contact with droppings. Place food and water strategically out of the way of droppings.
Offer perches of various shapes and widths, not standard round wooden ones. These will keep the feet from developmental problems. When perches of wood are wet from cleaning, be sure to sun-dry thoroughly.
When cleaning and/or disinfecting the cage, perch or any accessory, be sure you rinse all residue from cleaning and disinfecting agents. Your lovebird's respiratory system is 70 times greater[Pat do you mean size, sensitivity or volume of air passing through - conused] than our own. Even a slight odor or vapor can produce disastrous results.
Toys are an absolute must to keep your bird mentally stimulated and physically active. Lovebirds are particularly fond of playing, and will spend much time devoted to this activity. Bird toys found in pet stores can be pricey. To ease the financial burden do some toy shopping in the kids' toy section of a grocery store. I have purchased neon-colored (they're made for kids, so they're safe!) cowboys and Indians and large, plastic jacks for little girls. A clean plastic top off a gallon milk jug is good, too. Some cat toys, which are priced better, can also be used. I also make good use out of little girls' hair barrettes. They come in fun shapes, sizes, and every color imaginable. Keep your eyes open and your imagination tuned, and you will see all kinds of toys. It's fun to see how creative and ingenious you can be with toys! To keep interest at it's peak, rotate toys regularly.
GROOMING
Grooming is an essential part of maintenance for any bird. This generally includes wings, nails, and if required, the filing of an overgrown hookbill. When more than one lovebird is housed together, the wings should not be trimmed. Most assuredly there will be instances where one bird will need to quickly fly away and escape a threat another bird may impose. Full flighted wings assure a quick get away from harm.
Nails should be trimmed every six weeks or so. Nails which are overgrown inhibit proper perching and can be painful when digging into the feet. Overgrown nails are easily caught and could result in loss of a toe, or even bleeding to death. A bird can bleed to death in a matter of minutes. Only an experienced bird groomer should groom your bird.
Hookbills can become overgorwn to the point of interfering with eating. They are filed quickly and painlessly.
Bathing is part of grooming also. If no source of bathing water is supplied, you may find your birds splashing happily in the drinking water. This is unsanitary and should be avoided by making a dish of water available a few times a week. Some enjoy misting in addition to, or as opposed to bathing. Lovebirds love to bathe and this activity is worth watching and observing. There will be splashing and dipping amidst squeels of delight!
DIET AND NUTRITION
Feeding lovebirds a nutritionally dense diet is essential in maintaining optimum health. A seed-only diet most assuredly will result in disease, and more likely, a shortened life span. A lovebird's life span is between 15-20 years. For complete, proper nutrition, a base diet is highly recommended. A base diet is just what it implies-a base upon which to build on and around. A sound base diet will be the major source of nutrition, being supplied in a whole-food source. The recipe below is a prime example of a proper base diet.
Yummy! Rice Mixture
2 1/2 c whole grain brown rice
1 bag 16 bean mix (legumes)
1 c pearl barley
1 c uncooked elbow macaroni
2 pkgs ramen noodles (no seasoning)
9 c uncooked frozen mixed veggies
2/3 c granulated sea kelp (found in health food stores)
Bring 5 c water to boil, add rice. Cover and simmer for 45 min. Pour 16 bean mix in large stew pot and completely cover with water. Bring to boil; boil for 40 min., or until tender. Cook pearl barley in 2 c water until water is completely absorbed. Boil macaroni for 7 min. Break up ramen noodles, add to boiling macaroni for 3 min more. Drain and rinse.
Put above cooked ingredients in large tub or container. Add uncooked Frozen veggies. Sprinkly 2/3 c sea delp on veggies. Stir and mix thoroughly. Freeze until ready to use.
Along with serving the rice mixture, fruit, greens, and a type of whole grain should also be offered daily. Apple is a favorite fruit because it contains pectin, which levels blood sugar and helps eliminate cholesterol. Before serving any produce purchased, wash thoroughly!
Sources of whole grain are cereals, toast, or crackers. (Beware of sodium content in crackers, however!) Cheerios make an excellent addition nutritionally, and visually it intrigues a hungry bird into trying something they are unsure of.
Cuttlebone and mineral block are made available at all times. A conditioning, or egg food, is also made available, and as a treat, spray millet.
Hope I have been able to help you a little?
Hoping a lovey owner comes on but in the meantime I am adding links of info for you https://lafeber.com/pet-birds/species/lovebird/
http://www.birdchannel.com/bird-species/find-the-right-bird/lovebirds.aspx
Re the cage - the situation of him not liking his cage needs to be dealt with I think. Have you tried moving the things inside around? Anything that scares him ie toy? Not enough toys/mirrors etc? Are the perches correct for him and to be able to get around well enough?
Food - this is something that probably does need some focus.
This link may give you some answers http://www.birdsnways.com/wisdom/ww49eiii.htm as it is fairly informative. copy n paste as link wont work properly
Three of the nine species, including the Madagascar, Redfaced, and Abyssinian, are sexually dimorphic. Dimorphic simply means sexing can be accomplished visually.
Four of the nine species are from the Eye Ring group, having a white ring surrounding the eyes. They are Fischer's, Nyasa, Black-cheeked, and Masked. It is said all Eye Rings make excellent foster parents for other Eye Rings. The Peachfaced and Black-collared are in the Non Eye Ring group.
Sizes range from 4", as in the Fischer's, to 7", as in the Peachfaced. Weights generally range from 50-60 grams and females tend to be larger than the males, and for the most part, more aggressive as well.
Lovebirds are beautiful displays of color; blue, yellow, olive, orange, and grey. Only the budgerigar comes in a wider array of colors. There are 17 Peachfaced mutations alone, allowing well over 100,000 color mutations.
PERSONALITY AND CHARACTERISTICS
It is recommended you do not house a lovebird alone. Indicative of their name, they regard each other with deep fondness and affection. They show an especially intenseurge for bonding. It is a characteristic deeply imbedded in them. They will even bond to their same sex.
It is important for lovebirds to give each other, and receive, constant assurance and acknowledgement. These needs are satisfied by frequent contact, as in kissing and preening, or may come in a more serious manner, such as painful nips and bites.
Lovebirds are prone to loud, vocal outbursts. These usually are during times of alarm or excitement. Although they are not singers, their chirps, squeals, and chortles, make a music of their own. They dearly love to chatter and talk amongst themselves. If your desire is for a quiet bird, lovebirds are definitely not for you!
Without doubt, I hear my two lovebirds talk. They say one word, or phrase, in quick repitition. Morning feeding time is deemed our "quality time" together. I talk and babble on, all the while commanding gently, "Up, up!" This is to help me clean and feed without hassle while they are "up" and out of the way. While the enunciation of the words are unclear, the tone and rythm are as my own.
I believe most any bird can be taught to talk with enough patience and perseverance. However, it does not make or break the birds personality. A lovebird who willl never utter a word or phrase, has the full capacity to give joy and live an enriched, purposeful life.
HOUSING AND MAINTENANCE
Your lovebird should not be housed alone. Your lovebird pair should be housed in a cage with dimensions no less than 18x18x12". Bar spacing should be no more than 3/4". This size will ensure plenty of space to fly and flitter about, and if so desired, the freedom of each bird from each other. Birds need "personal space" too!
Round cages are not recommended for they offer no place for them to "hide". Square cages provide corners for a bird to face into, resulting in a feeling of invisibility, safety, and security.
Cage cleaning should be done daily, complete disinfecting on a weekly basis. This includes food/water dishes as well. Water dishes accumulate bacteria at an alarming rate. This could promote illness in your bird.
Cleanliness of a cage is a top priority for the health of your lovebird. In the wild, birds do not come in direct contact with their droppings. Birds excrete between 25-50 times per day, depending on size. A brooding female will excrete out of the nest, and chicks in the nest instinctively wriggle up and back, out of the nest to excrete. Don't give your lovebird an opportunity to come into contact with droppings. Place food and water strategically out of the way of droppings.
Offer perches of various shapes and widths, not standard round wooden ones. These will keep the feet from developmental problems. When perches of wood are wet from cleaning, be sure to sun-dry thoroughly.
When cleaning and/or disinfecting the cage, perch or any accessory, be sure you rinse all residue from cleaning and disinfecting agents. Your lovebird's respiratory system is 70 times greater[Pat do you mean size, sensitivity or volume of air passing through - conused] than our own. Even a slight odor or vapor can produce disastrous results.
Toys are an absolute must to keep your bird mentally stimulated and physically active. Lovebirds are particularly fond of playing, and will spend much time devoted to this activity. Bird toys found in pet stores can be pricey. To ease the financial burden do some toy shopping in the kids' toy section of a grocery store. I have purchased neon-colored (they're made for kids, so they're safe!) cowboys and Indians and large, plastic jacks for little girls. A clean plastic top off a gallon milk jug is good, too. Some cat toys, which are priced better, can also be used. I also make good use out of little girls' hair barrettes. They come in fun shapes, sizes, and every color imaginable. Keep your eyes open and your imagination tuned, and you will see all kinds of toys. It's fun to see how creative and ingenious you can be with toys! To keep interest at it's peak, rotate toys regularly.
GROOMING
Grooming is an essential part of maintenance for any bird. This generally includes wings, nails, and if required, the filing of an overgrown hookbill. When more than one lovebird is housed together, the wings should not be trimmed. Most assuredly there will be instances where one bird will need to quickly fly away and escape a threat another bird may impose. Full flighted wings assure a quick get away from harm.
Nails should be trimmed every six weeks or so. Nails which are overgrown inhibit proper perching and can be painful when digging into the feet. Overgrown nails are easily caught and could result in loss of a toe, or even bleeding to death. A bird can bleed to death in a matter of minutes. Only an experienced bird groomer should groom your bird.
Hookbills can become overgorwn to the point of interfering with eating. They are filed quickly and painlessly.
Bathing is part of grooming also. If no source of bathing water is supplied, you may find your birds splashing happily in the drinking water. This is unsanitary and should be avoided by making a dish of water available a few times a week. Some enjoy misting in addition to, or as opposed to bathing. Lovebirds love to bathe and this activity is worth watching and observing. There will be splashing and dipping amidst squeels of delight!
DIET AND NUTRITION
Feeding lovebirds a nutritionally dense diet is essential in maintaining optimum health. A seed-only diet most assuredly will result in disease, and more likely, a shortened life span. A lovebird's life span is between 15-20 years. For complete, proper nutrition, a base diet is highly recommended. A base diet is just what it implies-a base upon which to build on and around. A sound base diet will be the major source of nutrition, being supplied in a whole-food source. The recipe below is a prime example of a proper base diet.
Yummy! Rice Mixture
2 1/2 c whole grain brown rice
1 bag 16 bean mix (legumes)
1 c pearl barley
1 c uncooked elbow macaroni
2 pkgs ramen noodles (no seasoning)
9 c uncooked frozen mixed veggies
2/3 c granulated sea kelp (found in health food stores)
Bring 5 c water to boil, add rice. Cover and simmer for 45 min. Pour 16 bean mix in large stew pot and completely cover with water. Bring to boil; boil for 40 min., or until tender. Cook pearl barley in 2 c water until water is completely absorbed. Boil macaroni for 7 min. Break up ramen noodles, add to boiling macaroni for 3 min more. Drain and rinse.
Put above cooked ingredients in large tub or container. Add uncooked Frozen veggies. Sprinkly 2/3 c sea delp on veggies. Stir and mix thoroughly. Freeze until ready to use.
Along with serving the rice mixture, fruit, greens, and a type of whole grain should also be offered daily. Apple is a favorite fruit because it contains pectin, which levels blood sugar and helps eliminate cholesterol. Before serving any produce purchased, wash thoroughly!
Sources of whole grain are cereals, toast, or crackers. (Beware of sodium content in crackers, however!) Cheerios make an excellent addition nutritionally, and visually it intrigues a hungry bird into trying something they are unsure of.
Cuttlebone and mineral block are made available at all times. A conditioning, or egg food, is also made available, and as a treat, spray millet.
Hope I have been able to help you a little?
Last edited:
- Thread Starter
- Thread starter
- #9
Oh my, that was some big help, thanks! He doesn't like his cage because we went trhough an earthquake one night while he was sleeping in his cage. He was so paniced that he climbed to the inside top of the cage and screamed all the night hanging upside down by the "roof". I left the lights on that night and tryed to calm him but nothing worked until I let him out. The next few months he only slept on a painting next to me. Poor little guy was so scared that he would only go in for food and water.
Now he sleeps on the bookshelf but spends a lot of time in the cage. He simply doesn't want to sleep there... or to be locked inside for that matter-the door *must* be open. This morning I've been away and left him alone on the bookself. When I came back he was still there so I got scared thinking he lost apetite, doesn't want to eat any more etc. But I found that the food was eaten and that he even left a few surprises I'll have to clean on the bottom of the cage. Unless the cage levitated so he can reach the bookshelf (and he is not known for being a jedi) I guess he flew. And the little bugger used me as a personal elevator for the past few days since I saw some improvement in flying down lately. Therefore things seem to be turning back to normal. Thak you for your help again!
Now he sleeps on the bookshelf but spends a lot of time in the cage. He simply doesn't want to sleep there... or to be locked inside for that matter-the door *must* be open. This morning I've been away and left him alone on the bookself. When I came back he was still there so I got scared thinking he lost apetite, doesn't want to eat any more etc. But I found that the food was eaten and that he even left a few surprises I'll have to clean on the bottom of the cage. Unless the cage levitated so he can reach the bookshelf (and he is not known for being a jedi) I guess he flew. And the little bugger used me as a personal elevator for the past few days since I saw some improvement in flying down lately. Therefore things seem to be turning back to normal. Thak you for your help again!
plumsmum2005
New member
You are very welcome. Can see some reasoning for his behaviour now.
Just an idea, could you get him or make him a stand so he has somewhere to hang out that isnt the bookcase? Some members on here have made some fantastic stands that do not need to cost a lot.
Here is one example http://www.parrotforums.com/do-yourself/62424-diy-pvc-playgym.html
This is the section to look in for ideas!
Just an idea, could you get him or make him a stand so he has somewhere to hang out that isnt the bookcase? Some members on here have made some fantastic stands that do not need to cost a lot.
Here is one example http://www.parrotforums.com/do-yourself/62424-diy-pvc-playgym.html
This is the section to look in for ideas!
Last edited:
Piasa
Member
- Jan 12, 2016
- 569
- 15
- Parrots
- Beau 20 year old male Green Cheek || Jimmy Bullet 17 year old female white cap pionus parrot
Hi Matthew,
Darius is a cutie!
If he is still missing some tail feathers, he may not be as confident about flying. I'm glad he's starting to be more active.
You can always use ropes or ladders to lead from his spot on the bookshelf down to his cage, to make sure he can access his food and water. Plum's Mum's idea of making a playstand sounds great. You can also keep food/water on it until he is flying again.
Darius is a cutie!
If he is still missing some tail feathers, he may not be as confident about flying. I'm glad he's starting to be more active.
You can always use ropes or ladders to lead from his spot on the bookshelf down to his cage, to make sure he can access his food and water. Plum's Mum's idea of making a playstand sounds great. You can also keep food/water on it until he is flying again.
plumsmum2005
New member
Thanks Piasa but he will bypass his cage completely if given another option of food and water elsewhere, if I am correct he is actually going back in for food/water just not will to stay there after the 'quake'. The stand will hopefully suffice to be a more practical option to the bookcase, easier to clean and probably safer for him too.
His owner has said that he has flown just not always choosing to. - Thread Starter
- Thread starter
- #14
True. Right now he flies to his bookshelf all by himself. He still can't reach the upper level directly so he flies to a lower one, and then climbs all the way to the top, but at least now he flies.
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