Taming a scared parrot

yann

New member
Oct 19, 2013
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i've had two RBM's which are very very very scared of people for about 3months…they're so scared to the point that they don't even perch in the cage, opting to cling on the sides. just this weekend, i decided to find a parrot trainer to see if they could be tamed.

unfortunately, the felluh wasn't in when i went down. but i met another person that told me he could help me with the taming. and TADAH 3 hours later the RBM could perch on a stand without scampering off!!

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but of course the parrot still needs a lot of work and it'll take some time before he's completely okay.
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the method for taming however…is i'll admit not very kind. there's no violence involved of course! but basically we towelled the bird and petted it for about 1hour. then after that force the bird to perch[that part aint easy at all], every time he escapes the perch we put him back up until he gets the idea to stay there. after he gets used to the perching we could slowly pet it and pick it up.

while some people may not agree with this method, i felt that in such situations …being cruel was kinder. i've already spent the previous 3months sitting next to their cage talking to them, taking it easy but met with no progress. i felt that if we didn't do that then he'd probably be scared for the rest of his life. i'd rather he be scared for 3hours than 3years!!!

this probably wouldn't work for aggressive parrots though, just the scared ones.

sorry for the long post!but i felt that i had to share as i've never seen him this calm in the entire time i had him. if anyone else was like me, at their wits end~ then maybe giving this method a go would help!:)
 
We have a very scared parrot in the shape of a male eccy, Joey, who came with our recently departed Bella but they weren't bonded. After Bella died we moved him inside out of the heat, but he flees to the other side of the cage when you approach. It being a little cooler, we let him out on the verandah- only to have him be attacked by Coco the rainbow lorikeet who was literally on top of Joey who was on his back on the ground. The lorikeet is 1/4 to 1/3 of his size! A very vicious attack, and I was bitten in the course of breaking up the "fight". Anyway, I might try the towelling method as no amount of soft talking seems to work on Joey. I don't necessarilly want him tame- just to be able to get him to come to the hand would be fantastic, so he can be moved without trauma.
 
Start with "bonding games" (trick training).
First thing to start with is how you're feeding. If you're on open feed, switch to meals, that way there are points in the day your bird will be food motivated to want to do what you're asking. While making the transition to meals, find out what your bird likes best (if you’re feeding seeds, birds will always pick out what they like best first. Take those seeds out, and only use them during training sessions. And every interaction with you is a training session at this point). Let your bird eat all their food the night before, and in the morning start with your first training session- if you don’t have time in the AM. Given a small amount of food, and start training a when you can.

Clicker training, if you’re bird is not already clicker trained, this is something super beneficial for both you and your bird. When my bird hears the clicker, he gets into training mode, and is super sweet. If you haven’t done clicker training have this be your first training session (5/10 mins of just clicking and treating, every time you click instantly a treat should be given) after this session, give them their meal and let them relax.

First trick to train after your bird understands the clicker is targeting(which can be done in your birds cage), using a stick (chop stick, wand), point the stick at your bird, slowly moving the tip towards them until they either accidently touches it, or bites at it. The moment they touch the stick, click (indicating the second they did it right), take the stick away and praise and reward (p&r). after a few repetitions you’re bird will have figured out if they touch the tip, they’re going to get a treat. You can start to move them around their cage by going after the stick. (5/10 mins for this session) and then again, after training they can get more feed.

Next session: Now to bring in the stand- having their stand close enough to their cage that they can walk on to it on their own would be best. Once they are on the stand work with your bird on a few other tricks. During a training session for 15/20 mins. One of the first tricks I would work on is “stay”, find the threshold your bird will stay, is it 30secs or is it when you walk 10ft away does your bird leave the perch? Start there, give the command, walk or count till just 3 seconds before or 3 feet before your bird would leave- click- p&r. each repetition either add a second or an inch. Read your birds body language, and try not push them to the point where they leave the perch. And always end on a positive note. Even if you have to back up to a good place for them.
 
Rain was skiddish and scared when we rescued her.. It took time and patience..but now she prefers to interact with people, over being in or on the cage.

Time and patience..
 
Birds don't have to be removed from their cage in order to train them. Not sure why this is such a common misconception.

Working with Fearful Parrots: A Study in Videos | Learning Parrots
Clicker Training Parrots | Peggy's Parrot Place


If the bird bites the hand that feeds them, one can always figure out different ways of delivering treats, or even trying different treats... Sprig of millet. A treat cup. Treat spoon. Maybe something else entirely that keeps hands safe while still giving a reward to the bird?
 
GEE... not to gloat or anything, but that sounds like kind of FAMILIAR ADVICE given by someone - ahem - around here...

And lo and behold it actually works, in short order...

No they don't like it at first, but it gets them over the hump.

Once they get over the hump they are fine.

Until they get over the hump they won't be...

The longer you wait, the harder it becomes.

Patience to a point, but sometimes you just need to "talk softly and carry a big towel."

You will begin to see progress quickly now...
 
What if you can't get the bird out of the cage? And when you use your hand to bridge the gap between the reward, they just bite at your hand?

You throw the towel over the bird, and then reach in quickly and pick him up...

And watch your fingers doing it!
 
i
this probably wouldn't work for aggressive parrots though, just the scared ones.

it works extremely well with aggressive parrots!!!

I used it to tame down some of the worst biters we ever had...

Only there, you try and bite me you are on the floor.

You go after my feet, you meet mr. Towel.

You don't step up nice, you meet mr. Towel.

These are your options.

Step up nice and be rewarded.
Don't step up nice and be a towel mummy...

Your choice bird!

Guess which one the bird chooses virtually every time!!!
 
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