Questions about new bird (outside bird to inside?)

[Novamoon]

Hi,

So after a lot of research and preparation. I'm hoping to be able to get my first pet bird in a few months. I've hit a bit of a snag in my research however and was hoping that the members of this forum might be able to provide some help and guidance.

First, some things about me/my home:

• No allergies, dust not an issue.
• We're all adults here. It's a pretty calm household.
• We live in a rural area, so noise isn't a huge issue.
• Other pets are fish and a handful of chickens.

Sadly, there are no refuges or rescues at all in my area.

Concerning pet stores, I want to steer clear of them. I can still get supplies from ones that don't actually sell animals but I've been shocked by the state of some of the birds I've seen (poorly, missing feathers, repetitive/self destructive behavior) which isn't surprising as they're kept in tiny cages with no sunlight or even artificial light. I don't really feel like sponsoring that sort of thing.

That really leaves me with breeders and private owners. Now, around here (not sure if this is standard practice), they breed and raise their birds outside and they're more or less wild. The birds they offer for sale are usually a few months to two years old.

I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on whether or not getting one of these birds would be a good idea for someone in my position and simply require more effort/patience or if there would be little to no likelihood of them ever becoming tame.

Here are a few lists of species I've looked at and I know to be readily available:

• Ringnecks: I confess to having a soft spot for them. I've read a lot of conflicting information about them as pets with some claiming that they're unruly, aggressive and can't be tamed to others saying that they're good birds which simply require some patience.
• Plum headed parakeets
• Quakers
• Green-cheeked Conures
• Gray Hooded parakeets
• Parrotlets
  
  I'm looking for preferably one bird that I can focus on, that will be a good companion. I've got a lot of free time to provide care for it and to tame it.
  
  I've already discounted all of the larger parrots (Cockatoos, Macaws, African Grays, etc.) I know I'm most definitely not ready for one. I'd also like a slightly hardier bird. Given that I'm a relative novice, I'd be worried about having to care for one with special needs and dietary requirements (I don't mind preparing fresh fruit and veg, etc.).
  
  I understand that every bird is different and that a lot of the traits listed are general.
  
  Thanks for all your help and insight!
  
  Edit: I should also point out I haven't bought any gear (cage, accessories) yet.

 

[Scott]

Welcome to the forums, kudos for doing due diligence before impulse purchasing!

I respect your preference for not patronizing venues with birds likely produced by "mills" with little care. Minor counterpoint, many of them are healthy and deserve good homes - but every purchase perpetuates the cycle.

Conures are hugely represented within the forums, hard to go wrong with parakeets or cockatiels. I have no experience taming these species and defer to other members for guidance.

Approximately where do you live? Rehoming a bird from private seller is an excellent option and you generally learn more history. During normal times, birds can be remotely purchased and shipped air freight, though covid has lessened air commerce depending on location. And of course you don't have an ability to interact pre-purchase.

 

[noodles123]

If you get a bird from an outdoor aviary that is a year or so old and has been raised with other birds, you are going to likely struggle to tame it (especially as a first bird). It isn't impossible, but it will seem like it is taking forever in all likelihood (as in many many months)....maybe even longer.

Here is my copy-and paste for potential owners:
I am going to write a ton here because it sounds like you are very new to this and there is a lot to learn. I don't mean to overwhelm you!

One really important thing when keeping a pet bird in the house is that you cannot use scented products or chemicals/fumes in your home (even things that smell nice to us(---things like smoke, perfumes, air freshener, standard cleaners, vaping, burning food, incense, cigarettes, glue, paint, window sealing kits, polishes, aerosol sprays etc can harm your bird's sensitive respiratory system (which is not the same as mammals'). Using products that heat or are heated which contain Teflon/PTFE/PFCs = very very dangerous. These products off-gas and can kill a bird in under 5 minutes. Teflon/PTFE/PFOA/PFCs are most commonly found in the kitchen (pots, pans, cookie sheets, drip trays, air fryers, popcorn poppers, baking mats, crock pots, toasters, toaster ovens, popcorn poppers, waffle irons, electric skillets etc. They can also be found in space-heaters, curling irons, blow-dryers, straighteners, heat lamps, heat guns, irons, ironing board covers etc. These fumes have killed birds through closed doors and on separate floors of a home, so you should replace your cookware with stainless steel, cast iron or ceramic. You may be thinking-- well, I have used them before and my bird is fine, but they kill very inconsistently and it depends on what you are cooking, the age of the pot/pan, the specific bird etc. There was a member who lost many of her birds from a pan she had literally used for years...then one day, her husband cooked an egg (without burning or overheating) and many of them died, while the rest showed signs of respiratory distress.

You will need an avian-safe cleaner to use within your home (both on the bird cage, but also, around the house). Again, chemical cleaners cannot be used in the home unless avian safe. F10 SC (the yellow/clear concentrate) is a great, avian-safe disinfectant. Other (less effective) options include products such as "poop-off", white vinegar + water, grapefruit seed extract + water, baking soda etc. Peroxide is also fairly safe for disinfecting places like your bathroom, but you do not want your bird to come into contact with it.

Some foods are toxic to them--avocado, coffee (even decaf), caffeine, rhubarb, alcohol, onions/garlic/leeks/chives, mushrooms etc. Salt is also very bad for them, as is most human food. They love it, but it's not healthy.

They should not just eat seed--you will want to feed lots of washed fresh vegetables. Fruit is fine in moderation, but too much can lead to obesity and behavioral issues due to sugar. I feed my bird a mix of high-quality seed (no sunflowers, no peanuts) and pellets (in addition to fruit/veg--pellets for all birds except eclectus). Fruit pits are toxic, as are apple seeds. Corn cob and certain nut shells (if swallowed in big pieces) can cause blockages, so you should be very cautious if you give your bird nuts in the shell. Peanuts can harbor aspergillosis, and should be avoided altogether.

It is important to make sure that your bird's toys and cage are made of safe metals. Stainless steel is safest. They can get metal poisoning from playing with or mouthing objects made of unsafe metals...Zinc is very bad, as are most metals they encounter (unless stainless or 100% aluminum)

They need a set amount of sleep each night (at least 10 hours--shooting for 12--12 is the minimum for some larger birds) and the largest cage you can manage with lots of different perches. You want to avoid the totally smooth/round ones as they can lead to a condition called bumblefoot. Never place a cage near drafts and never allow cool air to blow on a bird. They are sensitive to drafts and any temperature shift greater than 10 degrees can cause a shock to their system.

They need lots of safe toys and safe wood to chew. Not all wood is safe, so don't just assume you can give them any kind you want.

They hide illness and so you have to watch them to make sure they are eating normally and pooping normally etc. You should try to find an avian vet (certified avian) if at all possible and take your bird AT LEAST 1 x yearly for an exam. An avian vet is NOT the same as an exotics vet who sees birds--- so if a certified avian vet is available within a few hours of where you live, you will want to set up care.

All parrots can easily confuse the relationship with their human for a sexual one. You don't want this to happen, even though it seems sweet at first. Stick to petting on the head and neck only (the rest is sexual) and do not allow your bird to play in shadowy places, like boxes or under furniture, as these spaces are similar nesting sites and are hormonal triggers. NO SNUGGLE HUTS/TENTS!

Food and water should be replaced daily--- wash the containers daily. Never leave wet food out for more than a few hours (as it can lead to bacterial growth). Never try to medicate a bird via drinking water and never add vitamins to water. Vitamins can be over-dosed easily and harm a bird. Plus, when you add things to water, it makes it impossible to know how much they have gotten and it also encourages bacterial growth. Sometimes it can prevent them from drinking adequately if they don't like the flavor of whatever it is you added.

These birds have the intelligence of a 4-year-old human, but they are wild animals (not domesticated like dogs). This means that they see the world (and humans) in a very unique way and so you must learn about their behavior in order to prevent problems (screaming, plucking etc). They need lots of time out of their cage daily and a lot of interaction (at least a few hours). At the same time, you don't want to spend TOO much time with a bird of they will become overly dependent and not know what to do with themselves when you go to work etc.

Finally, baby birds are ALWAYS sweet compared to adult birds. When your bird hits puberty, expect that it will exhibit some annoying and problematic behaviors (much like a teen). A through knowledge of behavior and setting expectations at an early age will make your life easier when that time comes, but do prepare yourself and expect that things will not always be so smooth-sailing. Think about a baby human compared to a teen...

I am sure there is more...but that is a basic overview of caring for birds.

Here is an excerpt from another post (which you may want to reference when shopping/ calling about Teflon:
The most insidious is the Teflon/ptfe/pfoa/pfcs because you have to call the company to verify that anything that heats or is intended to be heated does not contain these substances ("PTFE free" doesn't mean PFC free and so there are a lot of marketing gimmicks out there to make people buy what seems like healthier cook-ware, even though it still contains a version of the same chemicals). Also-- these chemicals can be woven into fabric, mixed into metal during the moulding process, applied as a powder, applied as a clear-coat, or mixed with a colored coating. You cannot assume that you will be able to identify them visually, so, when you call, you must provide all abbreviations and full names + spellings of each chemical compound (and then they usually give you "the run around" for a week or so IF they ever answer your questions at all---because sometimes it's a "trade secret"). It's all very sketchy and DuPont (manufacturer of Teflon) claims that off-gassing only occurs at really high temperatures, but there have been numerous documented/scientific and anecdotal reports of birds passing away at temperatures in the 300 F range (and again, it kills through closed doors and on different floors).
FYI- Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)
A perfluorinated compound (PFC)
Teflon (a common brand-name of non-stick cookware containing these chemicals)

10- 12 hours nightly for sleep, so if you get up at 6 and make a bunch of noise, you will wake the bird up (even if they are still covered). If they wake up at 6, bed should be between 6-8. You want to keep it around the same time if possible (because that's how it is in nature).

Food- I leave a high quality mix of pellets and some seed in my bird's cage (no peanuts, no sunflowers, avoid fillers like corn etc)..Fruit/veg daily (more veg than fruit if at all possible--and not too much fruit). Citrus and fruits high in vitamin C should be given in extreme moderation because they can cause "Iron Storage Disease" (for a cockatoo, 1 small tangerine slice 1-2 times a week was okay, according to my vet). She gets something interesting/ cooked (no salt or sugar or unsafe spaces-- like a grain) 2x daily as well but she is picky as heck, so you have to watch it because some birds will fill up on one thing and not get proper nutrients or they will eat too much and become obese.


OH-- something I didn't mention in my last post-- stainless steel is really one of the only safe metals for them. Research the heck out of your cage and make sure that if it uses a powder-coating it is truly non-toxic. Birds can get metal poisoning from playing with sketchy toys (many made in China do not adhere to best practices) and just mouthing things like money, bolts, locks etc can cause toxic impacts...A man I know allowed his bird to play with un-used toothbrushes and (unbeknownst to him) there were small copper bits that held the bristles in place-- this nearly killed his bird even though the bird didn't actually swallow the pieces.

ALSO- AND NEVER EVER BUY A BABY THAT IS UNWEANED!! IT WILL NOT HELP YOU BOND BETTER. THIS IS A MYTH!!!! SERIOUSLY!

 

[Novamoon]

Hi!

Thanks for your fast replies.

I live in France. There is one sanctuary here but they specialize in cockatoos, macaws, etc. I have looked into getting someone else's bird but generally the standard (at least around where I live) is to put them in a cage, big or small and leave them outside.

My main concern about adopting a bird from someone else, that they'll have a ton of mistreatment issues. I understand these can be worked around. I suppose it depends upon the bird. From what I've read on this site and the forum it seems to be quite commonplace but is it advisable for beginners?

I also do have some experience working with rehomed horses (completely different species, I know) and have seen first hand some of the issues the animals can have. Some of the trotters take literal years to bring around (physically and psychologically) after being rescued from the races.

Would the age of the bird alter its ease to be tamed? I'm assuming that a younger bird, one which had been raised by its parents but was still less than a year old would be slightly less set in its ways than say a three year old.

Thanks for the text Noodles!

It wasn't anything that I didn't already know. Provisionally, I've penciled in my bedroom where I work from, for the bird. We're not a house to use incense or anything like that. I'm assuming that smells such as manure from outside wouldn't have any negative impacts?

I have chickens and have cared for some baby birds fallen from the nest in the past so was aware of much of this. I will watch out for the cage as I see many rusting which I can only assume means that they're made out of iron rather than steel.

 

[noodles123]

You cant use those cleaning products of teflon/ptfe/pfoa/pfcs in the same house at all. It doesn't matter if your bird is in your room, it can still be harmed. teflon has repeatedly killed birds on separate floors from where it is being used.. You can't use chemicals in the house.

Also, your bedroom is not a good place to keep a bird- They need to be in the social hub of the house (flock animals).

A bird's age can alter its ability to train with ease. That having been said, never EVER get an unweaned baby. Some will try to tell you that they bond better, but it's incorrect.

If a bird has been worked with by other people and is older, that is different than an older bird that has not worked with people. Does that make sense?

My bird is an adult re-home, but she had experiences with people. If I got a bird her age that had never been handled, that would have been a totally different endeavor.

 

[fiddlejen]

IF your only choice for a bird is going to be a non-handled Aviary bird, which you will want to tame, then I suspect you are correct that the younger the better. (EXCEPT as already noted make sure it Has been Fully Weaned beforehand.) IF at all possible, it would be best if you can observe them somewhat before deciding on the bird, as they do have variety of Very Individual temperaments and some may adjust to tameness better than others.

From there, I would suggest reading and Memorizing and re-reading all about how to Tame A petstore BUDGIE. The reason is because in the U.S., budgies are Commonly Parent-Raised in aviaries and then sent to petstores where they live in little cages with other Parent-Raised budgies until taken home by a new owner, who Might or Might Not plan to make it an actual pet.

My own two budgies are still pretty-much non-tame, although they do acknowledge my existence as their least-popular member of our flock. (I do believe our Flock-Boss, Mr. Jefferson Budgie, might consider upgrading my status If Only I would let him teach me to fly... ) Their lack of tameness is due to two factors: (1) rather than working with them for months, instead I fell in love with a loving sun conure, who demands all my attention and devotion, and (2) Head-Budgie Jefferson REFUSES to be in any way tame. IF IF my first bird had been my white budgie, Miss Calliope, there is a good chance she might have been my only-bird. She is fairly docile and reasonably compliant... however, she Bonded to Jefferson-Budgie and follows his preferences regarding not being tame.

ALL this to say. There is LOTS of advice for how to Tame Parent-Raised Aviary birds, when you search under "Tame My Parakeet" and "Tame My Budgie," etc. Look under the parakeet forum on This website and also look to websites which are specifically for Parakeet/Budgerigar owners. MOST of that advice will be equally applicable to most other species; it is only that in the U.S. budgie-parakeets are the one bird mostly-commonly sold in a completely Non-Handled condition.

 

[noodles123]

IF your only choice for a bird is going to be a non-handled Aviary bird, which you will want to tame, then I suspect you are correct that the younger the better. (EXCEPT as already noted make sure it Has been Fully Weaned beforehand.) IF at all possible, it would be best if you can observe them somewhat before deciding on the bird, as they do have variety of Very Individual temperaments and some may adjust to tameness better than others.

From there, I would suggest reading and Memorizing and re-reading all about how to Tame A petstore BUDGIE. The reason is because in the U.S., budgies are Commonly Parent-Raised in aviaries and then sent to petstores where they live in little cages with other Parent-Raised budgies until taken home by a new owner, who Might or Might Not plan to make it an actual pet.

My own two budgies are still pretty-much non-tame, although they do acknowledge my existence as their least-popular member of our flock. (I do believe our Flock-Boss, Mr. Jefferson Budgie, might consider upgrading my status If Only I would let him teach me to fly... ) Their lack of tameness is due to two factors: (1) rather than working with them for months, instead I fell in love with a loving sun conure, who demands all my attention and devotion, and (2) Head-Budgie Jefferson REFUSES to be in any way tame. IF IF my first bird had been my white budgie, Miss Calliope, there is a good chance she might have been my only-bird. She is fairly docile and reasonably compliant... however, she Bonded to Jefferson-Budgie and follows his preferences regarding not being tame.

ALL this to say. There is LOTS of advice for how to Tame Parent-Raised Aviary birds, when you search under "Tame My Parakeet" and "Tame My Budgie," etc. Look under the parakeet forum on This website and also look to websites which are specifically for Parakeet/Budgerigar owners. MOST of that advice will be equally applicable to most other species; it is only that in the U.S. budgie-parakeets are the one bird mostly-commonly sold in a completely Non-Handled condition.

Yes- agreed. It absolutely can be done, but birds move slower than most people anticipate as it is...many "lost interest" (unfortunately) before getting their birds to a tame point. This applies to birds in general, but especially aviary birds. It has been done, it can be done, it is absolutely doable, but it depends on your patience and knowledge.