New to being a Parrot Mom :)

[ligibbs]

Hello Everyone,

I am a new member and a new parakeet Mom. I have never had birds before but always wanted them. About a month ago Lucy and Luna came into my life. The are only about 3 month old. I did all my research on how to get them adjusted to you but I am still struggling with it. They do let me put my hand in the cage without going crazy. I am even able to get my finger close to them. They both already know my voice. As you can see there is some progress but if anyone has any suggestions I would love to hear them.

Thanks
Lisa

 

[noodles123]

Welcome welcome! This forum is amazing and I am SO happy I joined it! I hope you get lots of help and support (you will if you stick around). Parrots move in slow motion. You got 2, so that is a challenge because of bonding/breeding. Do you know their genders? You probably shouldn't keep a male and female together because even siblings will breed and become possessive--I mean, it's sometimes hard to split up a pair, but they are still quite young, so part of me feels like they would adjust if housed nearby. Building trust slowly is key-- you want to talk about what you are doing w/o getting too close. You want to keep things as low-anxiety as possible---don't try to force them to do anything (unless safety is a genuine concern) because it will destroy trust (which then must be rebuilt--trying to touch them before they are ready is another way to back-track in this regard). You can try reading near the cage....associate yourself with positives, don't do anything "scary"...and so on..

 

[noodles123]

Since you are a first-time owner, I am also posting this (because it's stuff you may or may not know, but definitely need to know). If you already know it, disregard.

I am going to write a ton here because it sounds like you are very new to this and there is a lot to learn. I don't mean to overwhelm you!

One really important thing when keeping a pet bird in the house is that you cannot use scented products or chemicals/fumes in your home (even things that smell nice to us(---things like smoke, perfumes, air freshener, standard cleaners, vaping, burning food, incense, cigarettes, glue, paint, window sealing kits, polishes, aerosol sprays etc can harm your bird's sensitive respiratory system (which is not the same as mammals'). Using products that heat or are heated which contain Teflon/PTFE/PFCs = very very dangerous. These products off-gas and can kill a bird in under 5 minutes. Teflon/PTFE/PFOA/PFCs are most commonly found in the kitchen (pots, pans, cookie sheets, drip trays, air fryers, popcorn poppers, baking mats, crock pots, toasters, toaster ovens, popcorn poppers, waffle irons, electric skillets etc. They can also be found in space-heaters, curling irons, blow-dryers, straighteners, heat lamps, heat guns, irons, ironing board covers etc. These fumes have killed birds through closed doors and on separate floors of a home, so you should replace your cookware with stainless steel, cast iron or ceramic. You may be thinking-- well, I have used them before and my bird is fine, but they kill very inconsistently and it depends on what you are cooking, the age of the pot/pan, the specific bird etc. There was a member who lost many of her birds from a pan she had literally used for years...then one day, her husband cooked an egg (without burning or overheating) and many of them died, while the rest showed signs of respiratory distress.

You will need an avian-safe cleaner to use within your home (both on the bird cage, but also, around the house). Again, chemical cleaners cannot be used in the home unless avian safe. F10 SC (the yellow/clear concentrate) is a great, avian-safe disinfectant. Other (less effective) options include products such as "poop-off", white vinegar + water, grapefruit seed extract + water, baking soda etc. Peroxide is also fairly safe for disinfecting places like your bathroom, but you do not want your bird to come into contact with it.

Some foods are toxic to them--avocado, coffee (even decaf), caffeine, rhubarb, alcohol, onions/garlic/leeks/chives, mushrooms etc. Salt is also very bad for them, as is most human food. They love it, but it's not healthy.

They should not just eat seed--you will want to feed lots of washed fresh vegetables. Fruit is fine in moderation, but too much can lead to obesity and behavioral issues due to sugar. I feed my bird a mix of high-quality seed (no sunflowers, no peanuts) and pellets (in addition to fruit/veg). Fruit pits are toxic, as are apple seeds. Corn cob and certain nut shells (if swallowed in big pieces) can cause blockages, so you should be very cautious if you give your bird nuts in the shell. Peanuts can harbor aspergillosis, and should be avoided altogether (even they you often see them marketed towards parrots).

It is important to make sure that your bird's toys and cage are made of safe metals. Stainless steel is safest. They can get metal poisoning from playing with or mouthing objects made of unsafe metals.

They need a set amount of sleep each night (at least 10 hours) and the largest cage you can manage with lots of different perches. You want to avoid the totally smooth/round ones as they can lead to a condition called bumblefoot. Never place a cage near drafts and never allow cool air to blow on a bird. They are sensitive to drafts and any temperature shift greater than 10 degrees can cause a shock to their system.

They need lots of safe toys and safe wood to chew. Not all wood is safe, so don't just assume you can give them any kind you want.

They hide illness and so you have to watch them to make sure they are eating normally and pooping normally etc. You should try to find an avian vet (certified avian) if at all possible and take your bird AT LEAST 1 x yearly for an exam. An avian vet is NOT the same as an exotics vet who sees birds--- so if a certified avian vet is available within a few hours of where you live, you will want to set up care.

All parrots can easily confuse the relationship with their human for a sexual one. You don't want this to happen, even though it seems sweet at first. Stick to petting on the head and neck only (the rest is sexual) and do not allow your bird to play in shadowy places, like boxes or under furniture, as these spaces are similar nesting sites and are hormonal triggers. NO SNUGGLE HUTS/TENTS!

Food and water should be replaced daily--- wash the containers daily. Never leave wet food out for more than a few hours (as it can lead to bacterial growth). Never try to medicate a bird via drinking water and never add vitamins to water. Vitamins can be over-dosed easily and harm a bird. Plus, when you add things to water, it makes it impossible to know how much they have gotten and it also encourages bacterial growth. Sometimes it can prevent them from drinking adequately if they don't like the flavor of whatever it is you added.

These birds have the intelligence of a 4-year-old human, but they are wild animals (not domesticated like dogs). This means that they see the world (and humans) in a very unique way and so you must learn about their behavior in order to prevent problems (screaming, plucking etc). They need lots of time out of their cage daily and a lot of interaction (at least a few hours). At the same time, you don't want to spend TOO much time with a bird of they will become overly dependent and not know what to do with themselves when you go to work etc.

Finally, baby birds are ALWAYS sweet compared to adult birds. When your bird hits puberty, expect that it will exhibit some annoying and problematic behaviors (much like a teen). A through knowledge of behavior and setting expectations at an early age will make your life easier when that time comes, but do prepare yourself and expect that things will not always be so smooth-sailing. Think about a baby human compared to a teen...

I am sure there is more...but that is a basic overview of caring for birds.

Here is an excerpt from another post (which you may want to reference when shopping/ calling about Teflon:
The most insidious is the Teflon/ptfe/pfoa/pfcs because you have to call the company to verify that anything that heats or is intended to be heated does not contain these substances ("PTFE free" doesn't mean PFC free and so there are a lot of marketing gimmicks out there to make people buy what seems like healthier cook-ware, even though it still contains a version of the same chemicals). Also-- these chemicals can be woven into fabric, mixed into metal during the moulding process, applied as a powder, applied as a clear-coat, or mixed with a colored coating. You cannot assume that you will be able to identify them visually, so, when you call, you must provide all abbreviations and full names + spellings of each chemical compound (and then they usually give you "the run around" for a week or so IF they ever answer your questions at all---because sometimes it's a "trade secret"). It's all very sketchy and DuPont (manufacturer of Teflon) claims that off-gassing only occurs at really high temperatures, but there have been numerous documented/scientific and anecdotal reports of birds passing away at temperatures in the 300 F range (and again, it kills through closed doors and on different floors).
FYI- Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)
A perfluorinated compound (PFC)
Teflon (a common brand-name of non-stick cookware containing these chemicals)

10- 12 hours nightly for sleep, so if you get up at 6 and make a bunch of noise, you will wake the bird up (even if they are still covered). If they wake up at 6, bed should be between 6-8. You want to keep it around the same time if possible (because that's how it is in nature).

Food- I leave a high quality mix of pellets and some seed in my bird's cage (no peanuts, no sunflowers, avoid fillers like corn etc)..Fruit/veg daily (more veg than fruit if at all possible--and not too much fruit). Citrus and fruits high in vitamin C should be given in extreme moderation because they can cause "Iron Storage Disease" (for a cockatoo, 1 small tangerine slice 1-2 times a week was okay, according to my vet). She gets something interesting/ cooked (no salt or sugar or unsafe spaces-- like a grain) 2x daily as well but she is picky as heck, so you have to watch it because some birds will fill up on one thing and not get proper nutrients or they will eat too much and become obese.


OH-- something I didn't mention in my last post-- stainless steel is really one of the only safe metals for them. Research the heck out of your cage and make sure that if it uses a powder-coating it is truly non-toxic. Birds can get metal poisoning from playing with sketchy toys (many made in China do not adhere to best practices) and just mouthing things like money, bolts, locks etc can cause toxic impacts...A man I know allowed his bird to play with un-used toothbrushes and (unbeknownst to him) there were small copper bits that held the bristles in place-- this nearly killed his bird even though the bird didn't actually swallow the pieces. The bird had to have chelation therapy. Similarly, many tapes and glue adhesives (including those on paper-towel rolls etc) contain toxic levels of zinc.

 

[Scott]

Welcome to you, Lucy, and Luna! They are young but never too early to begin the bonding process. I am not familiar with parakeets, but you'll find some great advice above and within this link: http://www.parrotforums.com/general-parrot-information/49144-tips-bonding-building-trust.html

 

[Amsterdam]

welcome to you and your flock

 

[wrench13]

Welcome and be welcomed.

 

[Jen5200]

Welcome to you! This was a pretty good thread for working with parakeets. http://www.parrotforums.com/budgies-parakeets/72068-taming-bonding-budgerigars-tips-beginners.html

 

[ligibbs]

Thank you Noodles 123.

When I got them from the pet store they had not put them two on the floor with the other birds. When they get new birds they keep them in the back for 5 days. These two came in together and were always together. The store kept them together because they had already bonded. They told me they were two young to know if they were male or female.

Reading through the post before I joined I did see one that stated having two birds are harder for them to bond to humans because they have each other.
I have made some progress but I am being very patient so they will eventually trust me.

Thank you for the great information as well. I also am really glad I found this Parrot Form it has been already helpful.

 

[ligibbs]

Noodles 123 - I was reading over all the information you sent and you put in there not give them liquid vitamins in there water. I have been trying to introduce them to fruits and veggies (offering it to them) but they still have not nibbled on them. I was told to give them this "vita Drops" until they get used to nibbling on the fruit and veggies. So would you suggest I do not give them this?
There is just so much information out there that I read before I got the birds and before finding this forum.

Another thing you mentioned that I had a question on is, it says the birds need to come out of there cage often. They have been out a few times and it is very difficult to get them back in. Lucy usually does go back in the cage but Luna does not then I have to get her in. I know that is not good cause then she will not trust me. So as of now they have not been out in a couple of weeks. What would you suggest if you feel I need to let them out before the trust me enough to get on my finger.

I apologize for all the questions but I do appreciate the help.

 

[Flboy]

Welcome to you!

 

[noodles123]

Noodles 123 - I was reading over all the information you sent and you put in there not give them liquid vitamins in there water. I have been trying to introduce them to fruits and veggies (offering it to them) but they still have not nibbled on them. I was told to give them this "vita Drops" until they get used to nibbling on the fruit and veggies. So would you suggest I do not give them this?
There is just so much information out there that I read before I got the birds and before finding this forum.

Another thing you mentioned that I had a question on is, it says the birds need to come out of there cage often. They have been out a few times and it is very difficult to get them back in. Lucy usually does go back in the cage but Luna does not then I have to get her in. I know that is not good cause then she will not trust me. So as of now they have not been out in a couple of weeks. What would you suggest if you feel I need to let them out before the trust me enough to get on my finger.

I apologize for all the questions but I do appreciate the help.

I wouldn't do vitamin drops. If they are eating pellets, they are getting vitamins already (some seeds are also fortified). Keep trying w/ fruit and veg, but don't supplement unless you do it under the close supervision of a CAV (it's also impossible for you to know how much each is getting, as they are both in the same cage w/ the same water).
Sometimes birds will also be more willing to eat what they see you eating (unseasoned fruit/veg---or a portion for them that is unseasoned, even if yours is). Never bite off of food and then let them eat after you (always pre-portion some before you start eating) but if they show interest, you can then give them some from a play next to yours or pretend like it came off your plate lol. It takes MANY exposures-- mine finally chewed on a carrot after many years of failed introductions.

You don't want to chase them if they get out. They are likely difficult to get back in because they know they will be locked up, which is why it is ideal to let them come and go freely IF IT CAN BE DONE SAFELY (because then they don't assume that they will get locked up just because they go in their cage to eat etc). You can try letting them out when they are hungry, which would make it easier (in theory) for you to get them back in. You could also restrict their access to the rest of the home by hanging a sheet, closing doors, blocking high ledges that they might try to hang out on for long periods, etc etc...Some birds are very in-tune with their bedtimes and lighting, so they will often return to their cage if the lights are dimmed but they can still see their cage (as it is their roosting spot)...but all of these can be gambles...If you think they are really fearful, it might be a struggle...You don't want to get in a situation where you have to chase them or where they are so scared that they won't eat etc. If you do decide to try it, do it when you have lots of time and make sure everyone knows so someone doesn't come stomping into the room and squish your birds with an opening door etc. Do also cover mirrors/windows or use decals so that they don't smash into them.
Wing clipping is EXTREMELY controversial, but if you really think that they will not be able to come out due to safety etc, then that is also a controversial but possible option.

 

[bigfellasdad]

Welcome, Ive mainly had budgies over my life, wonderful little playful creatures, as with all birds, the more love and caring you put in the more you get out. With having 2, they will be more independent than a single bird but i personally think thats a good thing as long as they are happy for you to be in the 'flock'. Also, noodles123 post is very important, re-read it.

My son has 2 budgies, they adore cucumber, so much so their face feathers go green

I've know of a few budgies that have died flying into windows too, be careful of that, nets/blinds are a good thing.

have fun and ask ask ask if you want help on anything.