New soon to be Birb Mommy here!

Artchic528

New member
Sep 3, 2020
21
17
Charlotte, NC
Parrots
2 Albino Parakeets, Jax and Jasmine
Hello! I’m a cashier at a pet store (not sure if we can say store names here so I’ll just leave it at that) and absolutely fell in love with the parakeets while working there! We got some new feathered cuties in on Tuesday and my heart just melted over an what I assume to be albino girl. She has all white feathers and ruby red eyes. I’m off today and tomorrow but I’m planning on getting her if she’s still there on Saturday (provided I get paid). I just started working on Monday so I’m not sure exactly about the pay periods and paycheck schedule. I’m also getting her a second feathery friend to keep each other company when I’m at work and can’t play with them.

I’m currently doing my due diligence and looking over all the info I can on parakeets. Yes, I’m going to get them the biggest darn cage I can at the store. I know bigger is better and more birds means more room is needed. I’m also researching proper diets and what fresh fruits and veggies I can and can’t feed them. I’m going to keep a seed based food available in a dish at all times for grazing. I know that parakeets need cuttlebone and or mineral blocks to nibble on too.

I’m also researching safe and unsafe toys. I won’t be using toys with mirrors because I know birds can become so enamored or obsessed with their reflections that they can develop serious psychological problems. Also need to figure out how to keep them safe from my dog (had a traumatic experience in my past with a dog of mine and a parotlet which didn’t end well). I want to keep them in the room I hang out in most but I just don’t know how my dog, a 15 pound maltipoo, will react. He’s been known to chase cats, so yeah.

Anyways, sorry for the very wordy hello, but I’m very excited to be here and to be getting some parakeets soon!
 
Hello and welcome! Depending on yiu stote discount, yiu might find a cage on Amazon much cheaper.
Glad you are doing research.
 
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #3
Hello and welcome! Depending on yiu stote discount, yiu might find a cage on Amazon much cheaper.
Glad you are doing research.

I only get 10% off most products (40% on the store’s own brand but don’t know if they make bird stuff) so I am definitely going to look on Amazon!
 
Hi and welcome!!!

Here is my copy-and paste for potential/new owners:

One really important thing when keeping a pet bird in the house is that you cannot use scented products or chemicals/fumes in your home (even things that smell nice to us(---things like smoke, perfumes, air freshener, standard cleaners, vaping, burning food, incense, cigarettes, glue, paint, window sealing kits, polishes, aerosol sprays etc can harm your bird's sensitive respiratory system (which is not the same as mammals'). Using products that heat or are heated which contain Teflon/PTFE/PFCs = very very dangerous. These products off-gas and can kill a bird in under 5 minutes. Teflon/PTFE/PFOA/PFCs are most commonly found in the kitchen (pots, pans, cookie sheets, drip trays, air fryers, popcorn poppers, baking mats, crock pots, toasters, toaster ovens, popcorn poppers, waffle irons, electric skillets etc. They can also be found in space-heaters, curling irons, blow-dryers, straighteners, heat lamps, heat guns, irons, ironing board covers etc. These fumes have killed birds through closed doors and on separate floors of a home, so you should replace your cookware with stainless steel, cast iron or ceramic. You may be thinking-- well, I have used them before and my bird is fine, but they kill very inconsistently and it depends on what you are cooking, the age of the pot/pan, the specific bird etc. There was a member who lost many of her birds from a pan she had literally used for years...then one day, her husband cooked an egg (without burning or overheating) and many of them died, while the rest showed signs of respiratory distress.

You will need an avian-safe cleaner to use within your home (both on the bird cage, but also, around the house). Again, chemical cleaners cannot be used in the home unless avian safe. F10 SC (the yellow/clear concentrate) is a great, avian-safe disinfectant. Other (less effective) options include products such as "poop-off", white vinegar + water, grapefruit seed extract + water, baking soda etc. Peroxide is also fairly safe for disinfecting places like your bathroom, but you do not want your bird to come into contact with it.

Some foods are toxic to them--avocado, coffee (even decaf), caffeine, rhubarb, alcohol, onions/garlic/leeks/chives, mushrooms etc. Salt is also very bad for them, as is most human food. They love it, but it's not healthy.

They should not just eat seed--you will want to feed lots of washed fresh vegetables. Fruit is fine in moderation, but too much can lead to obesity and behavioral issues due to sugar. I feed my bird a mix of high-quality seed (no sunflowers, no peanuts) and pellets (in addition to fruit/veg). ECCLECTUS PARROTS SHOULD NOT EAT PELLETS. Fruit pits are toxic, as are apple seeds. Corn cob and certain nut shells (if swallowed in big pieces) can cause blockages, so you should be very cautious if you give your bird nuts in the shell. Peanuts can harbor aspergillosis, and should be avoided altogether (even they you often see them marketed towards parrots).

It is important to make sure that your bird's toys and cage are made of safe metals. Stainless steel is safest. They can get metal poisoning from playing with or mouthing objects made of unsafe metals.

They need a set amount of sleep each night (at least 10 hours) and the largest cage you can manage with lots of different perches. You want to avoid the totally smooth/round ones as they can lead to a condition called bumblefoot. Never place a cage near drafts and never allow cool air to blow on a bird. They are sensitive to drafts and any temperature shift greater than 10 degrees can cause a shock to their system.

They need lots of safe toys and safe wood to chew. Not all wood is safe, so don't just assume you can give them any kind you want. Pressure blasted or chemically treated wood (e.g., lumber and many other types of wood from the hardware contains toxic chemicals or are cut from trees that are naturally toxic.

They hide illness and so you have to watch them to make sure they are eating normally and pooping normally etc. You should try to find an avian vet (certified avian) if at all possible and take your bird AT LEAST 1 x yearly for an exam. An avian vet is NOT the same as an exotics vet who sees birds--- so if a certified avian vet is available within a few hours of where you live, you will want to set up care.

All parrots can easily confuse the relationship with their human for a sexual one. You don't want this to happen, even though it seems sweet at first. Stick to petting on the head and neck only (the rest is sexual) and do not allow your bird to play in shadowy places, like boxes or under furniture, as these spaces are similar nesting sites and are hormonal triggers. NO SNUGGLE HUTS/TENTS!

Food and water should be replaced daily--- wash the containers daily. Never leave wet food out for more than a few hours (as it can lead to bacterial growth). Never try to medicate a bird via drinking water and never add vitamins to water. Vitamins can be over-dosed easily and harm a bird. Plus, when you add things to water, it makes it impossible to know how much they have gotten and it also encourages bacterial growth. Sometimes it can prevent them from drinking adequately if they don't like the flavor of whatever it is you added. Citrus and fruits high in vitamin C should be given in extreme moderation because they can cause "Iron Storage Disease" (for a cockatoo, 1 small tangerine slice 1-2 times a week was okay, according to my vet).

These birds have the intelligence of a 4-year-old human, but they are wild animals (not domesticated like dogs). This means that they see the world (and humans) in a very unique way and so you must learn about their behavior in order to prevent problems (screaming, plucking etc). They need lots of time out of their cage daily and a lot of interaction (at least a few hours). At the same time, you don't want to spend TOO much time with a bird of they will become overly dependent and not know what to do with themselves when you go to work etc.

Finally, baby birds are ALWAYS sweet compared to adult birds. When your bird hits puberty, expect that it will exhibit some annoying and problematic behaviors (much like a teen). A through knowledge of behavior and setting expectations at an early age will make your life easier when that time comes, but do prepare yourself and expect that things will not always be so smooth-sailing. Think about a baby human compared to a teen...

I am sure there is more...but that is a basic overview of caring for birds.

Here is an excerpt from another post (which you may want to reference when shopping/ calling about Teflon:
The most insidious is the Teflon/ptfe/pfoa/pfcs because you have to call the company to verify that anything that heats or is intended to be heated does not contain these substances ("PTFE free" doesn't mean PFC free and so there are a lot of marketing gimmicks out there to make people buy what seems like healthier cook-ware, even though it still contains a version of the same chemicals). Also-- these chemicals can be woven into fabric, mixed into metal during the moulding process, applied as a powder, applied as a clear-coat, or mixed with a colored coating. You cannot assume that you will be able to identify them visually, so, when you call, you must provide all abbreviations and full names + spellings of each chemical compound (and then they usually give you "the run around" for a week or so IF they ever answer your questions at all---because sometimes it's a "trade secret"). It's all very sketchy and DuPont (manufacturer of Teflon) claims that off-gassing only occurs at really high temperatures, but there have been numerous documented/scientific and anecdotal reports of birds passing away at temperatures in the 300 F range (and again, it kills through closed doors and on different floors).
FYI- Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)
A perfluorinated compound (PFC)
Teflon (a common brand-name of non-stick cookware containing these chemicals)

10- 12 hours nightly for sleep, so if you get up at 6 and make a bunch of noise, you will wake the bird up (even if they are still covered). If they wake up at 6, bed should be between 6-8. You want to keep it around the same time if possible (because that's how it is in nature).


OH-- something I didn't mention in my last post-- stainless steel is really one of the only safe metals for them. Research the heck out of your cage and make sure that if it uses a powder-coating it is truly non-toxic. Birds can get metal poisoning from playing with sketchy toys (many made in China do not adhere to best practices) and just mouthing things like money, bolts, locks etc can cause toxic impacts...A man I know allowed his bird to play with un-used toothbrushes and (unbeknownst to him) there were small copper bits that held the bristles in place-- this nearly killed his bird even though the bird didn't actually swallow the pieces. Copper, zinc, nickel, some iron, lead etc are all toxic.

ALSO- AND NEVER EVER BUY A BABY THAT IS UNWEANED!! IT WILL NOT HELP YOU BOND BETTER. THIS IS A MYTH!!!! SERIOUSLY!
Last edited by noodles123; 08-29-2020 at 10:12 AM.
Reply With Quote Multi-Quote This Message Quick reply to this message
 
Do not trust your dog. PERIOD (even if they get along or seem to). I am not a proponent of wing-trimming in most cases, but in yours, I would suggest clipped wings (NOT one-sided or so harsh that the bird falls), baby gates, and even an indoor leash for your dog. Your parrot needs as much (if not more) time than your dog, so it's really important to keep things safe.

I have an untrimmed cockatoo who hung out with my parents' 14 year-old dog, but she isn't prone to flying, but smaller birds are. The dogs have been good with her, but it takes ONE mistake (from her, or the dog) and i's over.

Some would say to leave the bird unclipped (for protection) but if your dog is the type to chase or ESPECIALLY if he catches well I would be cautious. An unexpected bird swooping by (even a friend) can trigger a strong, practically involuntary reaction in many dogs.

EDIT: to clarify, I am not an advocate for clipping in most scenarios, but I just know of erratic budgies can be in terms of flight etc...
 
Last edited:
I have a dog and a parrot (amongst other creatures!). I would never clip a bird though. I shut the dog out of the room when my bird is loose. Consider whether you can do this rather than clipping. A few good hours of oit of cage interaction a day is fine for a bird, especially if they have a good cage, toys and a partner, so time with you might not be that rewarding for them anyway so it's more about getting exercise, so the dog wouldn't have to be out of the room for too long. You can also interact with them plenty when they are in their cage. If the dog shows a lot of interest in the cage this could be tricky as it will be stressful for them, but a cage on legs or on a piece of furniture off the floor should be able to solve this.
 
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #8
Do not trust your dog. PERIOD (even if they get along or seem to). I am not a proponent of wing-trimming in most cases, but in yours, I would suggest clipped wings (NOT one-sided or so harsh that the bird falls), baby gates, and even an indoor leash for your dog. Your parrot needs as much (if not more) time than your dog, so it's really important to keep things safe.

I have an untrimmed cockatoo who hung out with my parents' 14 year-old dog, but she isn't prone to flying, but smaller birds are. The dogs have been good with her, but it takes ONE mistake (from her, or the dog) and i's over.

Some would say to leave the bird unclipped (for protection) but if your dog is the type to chase or ESPECIALLY if he catches well I would be cautious. An unexpected bird swooping by (even a friend) can trigger a strong, practically involuntary reaction in many dogs.
I will never trust dogs with anything small and potentially prey like to them. I learned that the hard way before like I said. Even my friend’s 8lbs yorkie can do serious harm to something as delicate and small as a parakeet. I’m going to take every precaution and keep the cage somewhere my dog can’t get to when I’m at work. Then when I’m at home, I’ll only take out a bird for playtime when in a bird safe room with the door closed and the dog on the other side. I’m not going to have another feathered baby of mine be in any danger.
 
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #9
Hi and welcome!!!

Here is my copy-and paste for potential/new owners:

One really important thing when keeping a pet bird in the house is that you cannot use scented products or chemicals/fumes in your home (even things that smell nice to us(---things like smoke, perfumes, air freshener, standard cleaners, vaping, burning food, incense, cigarettes, glue, paint, window sealing kits, polishes, aerosol sprays etc can harm your bird's sensitive respiratory system (which is not the same as mammals'). Using products that heat or are heated which contain Teflon/PTFE/PFCs = very very dangerous. These products off-gas and can kill a bird in under 5 minutes. Teflon/PTFE/PFOA/PFCs are most commonly found in the kitchen (pots, pans, cookie sheets, drip trays, air fryers, popcorn poppers, baking mats, crock pots, toasters, toaster ovens, popcorn poppers, waffle irons, electric skillets etc. They can also be found in space-heaters, curling irons, blow-dryers, straighteners, heat lamps, heat guns, irons, ironing board covers etc. These fumes have killed birds through closed doors and on separate floors of a home, so you should replace your cookware with stainless steel, cast iron or ceramic. You may be thinking-- well, I have used them before and my bird is fine, but they kill very inconsistently and it depends on what you are cooking, the age of the pot/pan, the specific bird etc. There was a member who lost many of her birds from a pan she had literally used for years...then one day, her husband cooked an egg (without burning or overheating) and many of them died, while the rest showed signs of respiratory distress.

You will need an avian-safe cleaner to use within your home (both on the bird cage, but also, around the house). Again, chemical cleaners cannot be used in the home unless avian safe. F10 SC (the yellow/clear concentrate) is a great, avian-safe disinfectant. Other (less effective) options include products such as "poop-off", white vinegar + water, grapefruit seed extract + water, baking soda etc. Peroxide is also fairly safe for disinfecting places like your bathroom, but you do not want your bird to come into contact with it.

Some foods are toxic to them--avocado, coffee (even decaf), caffeine, rhubarb, alcohol, onions/garlic/leeks/chives, mushrooms etc. Salt is also very bad for them, as is most human food. They love it, but it's not healthy.

They should not just eat seed--you will want to feed lots of washed fresh vegetables. Fruit is fine in moderation, but too much can lead to obesity and behavioral issues due to sugar. I feed my bird a mix of high-quality seed (no sunflowers, no peanuts) and pellets (in addition to fruit/veg). ECCLECTUS PARROTS SHOULD NOT EAT PELLETS. Fruit pits are toxic, as are apple seeds. Corn cob and certain nut shells (if swallowed in big pieces) can cause blockages, so you should be very cautious if you give your bird nuts in the shell. Peanuts can harbor aspergillosis, and should be avoided altogether (even they you often see them marketed towards parrots).

It is important to make sure that your bird's toys and cage are made of safe metals. Stainless steel is safest. They can get metal poisoning from playing with or mouthing objects made of unsafe metals.

They need a set amount of sleep each night (at least 10 hours) and the largest cage you can manage with lots of different perches. You want to avoid the totally smooth/round ones as they can lead to a condition called bumblefoot. Never place a cage near drafts and never allow cool air to blow on a bird. They are sensitive to drafts and any temperature shift greater than 10 degrees can cause a shock to their system.

They need lots of safe toys and safe wood to chew. Not all wood is safe, so don't just assume you can give them any kind you want. Pressure blasted or chemically treated wood (e.g., lumber and many other types of wood from the hardware contains toxic chemicals or are cut from trees that are naturally toxic.

They hide illness and so you have to watch them to make sure they are eating normally and pooping normally etc. You should try to find an avian vet (certified avian) if at all possible and take your bird AT LEAST 1 x yearly for an exam. An avian vet is NOT the same as an exotics vet who sees birds--- so if a certified avian vet is available within a few hours of where you live, you will want to set up care.

All parrots can easily confuse the relationship with their human for a sexual one. You don't want this to happen, even though it seems sweet at first. Stick to petting on the head and neck only (the rest is sexual) and do not allow your bird to play in shadowy places, like boxes or under furniture, as these spaces are similar nesting sites and are hormonal triggers. NO SNUGGLE HUTS/TENTS!

Food and water should be replaced daily--- wash the containers daily. Never leave wet food out for more than a few hours (as it can lead to bacterial growth). Never try to medicate a bird via drinking water and never add vitamins to water. Vitamins can be over-dosed easily and harm a bird. Plus, when you add things to water, it makes it impossible to know how much they have gotten and it also encourages bacterial growth. Sometimes it can prevent them from drinking adequately if they don't like the flavor of whatever it is you added. Citrus and fruits high in vitamin C should be given in extreme moderation because they can cause "Iron Storage Disease" (for a cockatoo, 1 small tangerine slice 1-2 times a week was okay, according to my vet).

These birds have the intelligence of a 4-year-old human, but they are wild animals (not domesticated like dogs). This means that they see the world (and humans) in a very unique way and so you must learn about their behavior in order to prevent problems (screaming, plucking etc). They need lots of time out of their cage daily and a lot of interaction (at least a few hours). At the same time, you don't want to spend TOO much time with a bird of they will become overly dependent and not know what to do with themselves when you go to work etc.

Finally, baby birds are ALWAYS sweet compared to adult birds. When your bird hits puberty, expect that it will exhibit some annoying and problematic behaviors (much like a teen). A through knowledge of behavior and setting expectations at an early age will make your life easier when that time comes, but do prepare yourself and expect that things will not always be so smooth-sailing. Think about a baby human compared to a teen...

I am sure there is more...but that is a basic overview of caring for birds.

Here is an excerpt from another post (which you may want to reference when shopping/ calling about Teflon:
The most insidious is the Teflon/ptfe/pfoa/pfcs because you have to call the company to verify that anything that heats or is intended to be heated does not contain these substances ("PTFE free" doesn't mean PFC free and so there are a lot of marketing gimmicks out there to make people buy what seems like healthier cook-ware, even though it still contains a version of the same chemicals). Also-- these chemicals can be woven into fabric, mixed into metal during the moulding process, applied as a powder, applied as a clear-coat, or mixed with a colored coating. You cannot assume that you will be able to identify them visually, so, when you call, you must provide all abbreviations and full names + spellings of each chemical compound (and then they usually give you "the run around" for a week or so IF they ever answer your questions at all---because sometimes it's a "trade secret"). It's all very sketchy and DuPont (manufacturer of Teflon) claims that off-gassing only occurs at really high temperatures, but there have been numerous documented/scientific and anecdotal reports of birds passing away at temperatures in the 300 F range (and again, it kills through closed doors and on different floors).
FYI- Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)
A perfluorinated compound (PFC)
Teflon (a common brand-name of non-stick cookware containing these chemicals)

10- 12 hours nightly for sleep, so if you get up at 6 and make a bunch of noise, you will wake the bird up (even if they are still covered). If they wake up at 6, bed should be between 6-8. You want to keep it around the same time if possible (because that's how it is in nature).


OH-- something I didn't mention in my last post-- stainless steel is really one of the only safe metals for them. Research the heck out of your cage and make sure that if it uses a powder-coating it is truly non-toxic. Birds can get metal poisoning from playing with sketchy toys (many made in China do not adhere to best practices) and just mouthing things like money, bolts, locks etc can cause toxic impacts...A man I know allowed his bird to play with un-used toothbrushes and (unbeknownst to him) there were small copper bits that held the bristles in place-- this nearly killed his bird even though the bird didn't actually swallow the pieces. Copper, zinc, nickel, some iron, lead etc are all toxic.

ALSO- AND NEVER EVER BUY A BABY THAT IS UNWEANED!! IT WILL NOT HELP YOU BOND BETTER. THIS IS A MYTH!!!! SERIOUSLY!
Last edited by noodles123; 08-29-2020 at 10:12 AM.
Reply With Quote Multi-Quote This Message Quick reply to this message

Wow! Thanks! It’s a lot to read but all super helpful and informative! I’m excited to be a birb mommy again!
 
Also, I might add that you would probably want to get a flight cage with its own stand because those are generally higher and more sturdy, so they will feel more safe and secured. I also have a dog and I would recommend the A&E flight cage or the hq flight cage.

Here are the links:
https://www.amazon.com/Cage-Co-32-I...1599230403&sprefix=A&E+flight+,aps,219&sr=8-2

https://www.birdscomfort.com/flight_bird_cage.html


This is also pretty good since your getting budgies/parakeets:

https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Constru...ge&qid=1599230471&sprefix=hq+f,aps,252&sr=8-6


Also, these flight cages usually comes with plastic food bowls DO NOT USE THEM they grow bacteria really easily so you're going to want to buy some stainless steel bowls and I do recommend 4 bowls so each bird can have their own food and water bowl because they might fight for food or one bird might not let the other birds eat this happened to my 2 very closely bonded cockatiels.
 
Last edited:
Welcome to you and your future parakeets! Seems you have your heart set on a particular bird. One bit of advice if you are flexible, and especially for your second choice: Allowing the bird to "choose you" fosters an element of trust that helps tighten the bond. Good luck, we'd love to see pics of your new family!!
 
I have a dog and a parrot (amongst other creatures!). I would never clip a bird though. I shut the dog out of the room when my bird is loose. Consider whether you can do this rather than clipping. A few good hours of oit of cage interaction a day is fine for a bird, especially if they have a good cage, toys and a partner, so time with you might not be that rewarding for them anyway so it's more about getting exercise, so the dog wouldn't have to be out of the room for too long. You can also interact with them plenty when they are in their cage. If the dog shows a lot of interest in the cage this could be tricky as it will be stressful for them, but a cage on legs or on a piece of furniture off the floor should be able to solve this.

I agree that it should be a last resort, I am not a fan of clipping, but if a bird isn't allowed to fly around the house due to the dog, then there is not as much benefit when it comes to keeping them flighted..

I strongly disagree that you can interact plenty with them in the cage. They need to be out. Keeping a flighted bird caged most of the time is worse than letting a bird out and doing a mild clip (in my opinion).
 

Most Reactions

Latest posts

Back
Top