Need help with scared parrot :(

lettie

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Sep 29, 2018
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Parrots
African Ringneck
My parrot is an African Ringneck Parakeet (not an indian, but they're quite similar), I'm not quite sure how old he is but his ring is pretty black and thick with a pink nape.

I got my parrot on the 24th. He is a very scared bird, but throughout the days he has started to get more comfortable and even began making cute shy little chirps when I would talk to him when I would wake up from naps. His cage is in my room, I'm almost ALWAYS in my room, so he spends A LOT of time with me.

I felt like progress was getting good. He wouldn't run away when I would walk near his cage as much (sometimes he would though, because he's a very scared little bird)

To explain a bit more about how scared he is, whenever I would put toys in his cage or try giving him treats, he would run away to a corner and try hurting himself. I'm guessing he's just really scared of hands. :(



Well tonight I accidentally left his cage open and when I came back into my room he was on top of my tv. I tried sitting with him and waiting for him to come to me, but he ended up flying towards my dog. I quickly picked my dog up and ran outside of my room. We tried grabbing him, but he flew behind my dresser. I got my dads help and he was able to grab the parrot so that it wouldn't get hurt, but he bit my dad a few times.



I feel really bad, because clearly this has pushed his progress backwards and it's all my fault. Is there any way I could regain his trust? I want him to be able to be outside of his cage, but he is scared of me and this has probably made it 1000x worse.

I would appreciate any advice.

Edit: Something else he was doing today (before the incident) was that he would hang on to the front of the cage and flap his wings.

Edit: He is also sleeping at the bottom of his cage atm :(
 
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I'm not hugely experienced or an actual vet like some on the forum, but for what it's worth, I would phone an avian vet or avian charity about him being at the bottom of the cage, just in case he got injured or the shock has made him ill in some way. It's easy to injure or restrict breathing in a bird while grabbing or restraining them if you're not trained in how to do it, and sometimes a traumatic event can trigger viruses that have been dormant in their bodies.

Was this the first time he's been out of his cage? Holding on to the bars and flapping his wings means he isn't getting enough exercise.

What I did with my scared IRN early this year, that worked very well at least in our case, was just to leave the cage door open as I got on with my own quiet activities as normal in the same room. After a few days of cautiously looking out of the door, he started coming out. I would continue to ignore him and he would go back in on his own after not too long, because that's where his food and water was and where he felt more safe. I never approached him, I just casually and calmly glanced in his direction occasionally when he was thinking about coming out and then when he was out, to let him know that I was fully aware of where he was and didn't have any interest. Once he was regularly coming out with me in the room, and would approach me, I'd remove and handle a perch from his cage, so he got used to seeing me moving it around, and soon he would step on to it when I held it in front of him, especially in the context of me "rescuing" him from the scary floor, so I had a means of fetching him when he got brave enough to want to stay out for long periods but not tame enough to accept hands or arms.
 
Do you know if your ARN (I have one, too! So yes, I know not an IRN!) was aviary bred by any chance? I ask because I found out mine is wild caught...

Behavior sounds normal for a frightened ringneck, unfortunately....


Some things that can help - make sure he has a way to "hide". I don't mean a nest, but a toy or a perch that he can either hide in or behind. My ARN has used a "net" that she used in the past and now a special perch without a bottom that she likes to hide in. Pictures below.

IMAG1268_zps556a4c66.jpg


IMAG1272_zps23468cc7.jpg


aa169669-03b5-484b-b02c-134bf4ff36ab-original.jpg


21efa07f-8ed0-47f9-af68-489530974596-original.jpg


Beyond that - it can help to set up a treat cup near the front of the cage and any time you walk past, drop a treat in it. You don't have to sit and watch him come for the treat, simply drop and go. This can help him learn to enjoy your presence.



Hopefully, sleeping on the bottom of the cage is from the stress of having to be captured, not because he's sick.
 
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I'm not hugely experienced or an actual vet like some on the forum, but for what it's worth, I would phone an avian vet or avian charity about him being at the bottom of the cage, just in case he got injured or the shock has made him ill in some way. It's easy to injure or restrict breathing in a bird while grabbing or restraining them if you're not trained in how to do it, and sometimes a traumatic event can trigger viruses that have been dormant in their bodies.

Was this the first time he's been out of his cage? Holding on to the bars and flapping his wings means he isn't getting enough exercise.

What I did with my scared IRN early this year, that worked very well at least in our case, was just to leave the cage door open as I got on with my own quiet activities as normal in the same room. After a few days of cautiously looking out of the door, he started coming out. I would continue to ignore him and he would go back in on his own after not too long, because that's where his food and water was and where he felt more safe. I never approached him, I just casually and calmly glanced in his direction occasionally when he was thinking about coming out and then when he was out, to let him know that I was fully aware of where he was and didn't have any interest. Once he was regularly coming out with me in the room, and would approach me, I'd remove and handle a perch from his cage, so he got used to seeing me moving it around, and soon he would step on to it when I held it in front of him, especially in the context of me "rescuing" him from the scary floor, so I had a means of fetching him when he got brave enough to want to stay out for long periods but not tame enough to accept hands or arms.

Yes, this was his first time outside of the cage. I don't think he was going to go back into his cage. He got stuck on top of my dresser and wouldn't come back down. He is not flighted (not my decision, my mom bought him clipped unfortunately), so i was very scared that he would hurt himself, but he managed to fly onto a pile of clothes i had.

Are you advising me to let him out again? I just don't know if it would be a good idea since he isn't hand tamed and I think he would be too scared to go back into his cage? Does that make sense.

I am a first time parrot owner, btw.
 
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Do you know if your ARN (I have one, too! So yes, I know not an IRN!) was aviary bred by any chance? I ask because I found out mine is wild caught...

Behavior sounds normal for a frightened ringneck, unfortunately....


Some things that can help - make sure he has a way to "hide". I don't mean a nest, but a toy or a perch that he can either hide in or behind. My ARN has used a "net" that she used in the past and now a special perch without a bottom that she likes to hide in. Pictures below.

Beyond that - it can help to set up a treat cup near the front of the cage and any time you walk past, drop a treat in it. You don't have to sit and watch him come for the treat, simply drop and go. This can help him learn to enjoy your presence.



Hopefully, sleeping on the bottom of the cage is from the stress of having to be captured, not because he's sick.

I do believe he was probably wild caught, because my mom bought him for me from a swap meet, which is a flea market, so i can very well understand why he is so scared of hands considering those guys probably don't care about the birds at all. :(

I did add toys to his temporary cage, I'm kind of scared to add another toy since he would get really stressed when I would go into his cage, but I will try to find one that he can hide behind. Is it possible you could send me the one you use for your ARN? Here is a picture of him when he was stuck on top of my dresser just for visual of what he looks like.

Also good news!! I just checked on him, he might be slightly annoyed on how much I've been checking on him, but he is back on one of his perches <3 That makes me feel slightly better.

By the way thank you so much for the advice so far, I will definitely consider buying him another cup. He is in a temporary small cage, but it's filled with about 5 toys. He's been so happy so far, you know before the incident of me letting him out. In 2 weeks he's getting his bigger cage, I might have some questions on how to get him into his bigger cage, since the current one is way too small for his tail. Thank you so much btw, sorry about the long response.
 
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https://imgur.com/a/PyOuhwP

My ARN chewed up her net.... but both were purchased from MySafeBirdStore. I see the "box perch" is gone now... It's called a Dodo Play Box & Hideaway Parrot Toy.

The other is just a seagrass matt

https://www.mysafebirdstore.com/CUSTOMER_PRODUCT_VIDEOS-Super_Bird_Creations_Activity_Wall_NEW.html

Regular ones without toys are a bit cheaper...

https://www.mysafebirdstore.com/SEAGRASS_MATS-Seagrass_Mat_Small.html



Does he have an open leg band by any chance?



What size is the bigger cage? A larger cage can certainly help make them more at ease if they have a way to get away. It's better to give them choice but try to win their trust than force them to like you.
 
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https://imgur.com/a/PyOuhwP

My ARN chewed up her net.... but both were purchased from MySafeBirdStore. I see the "box perch" is gone now... It's called a Dodo Play Box & Hideaway Parrot Toy.

The other is just a seagrass matt

https://www.mysafebirdstore.com/CUSTOMER_PRODUCT_VIDEOS-Super_Bird_Creations_Activity_Wall_NEW.html

Regular ones without toys are a bit cheaper...

https://www.mysafebirdstore.com/SEAGRASS_MATS-Seagrass_Mat_Small.html



Does he have an open leg band by any chance?



What size is the bigger cage? A larger cage can certainly help make them more at ease if they have a way to get away. It's better to give them choice but try to win their trust than force them to like you.

He does not have any leg bands. He was also sold as an indian ringneck, which is very wrong considering he looks exactly like an ARN.

Here is the cage that I was considering

https://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=5059+10346+5062+28343&pcatid=28343

Other cages seem to be way too small or not the correct bar spacing. It's been quite stressful finding one with the correct sizing and bar spacing >.<
 
It can be difficult finding a cage if you don't know where to look.

Here's a larger, and cheaper, cage! I have one this size that my IRN is in now - although I'd prefer it if she was in my largest cage. (that one is currently broken down until I have room for it again)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-E-Flight...-WITH-PURCHASE-/223164080218?oid=222977253735


Or there's this cage... which occasionally goes on sale for around $200

https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petco...ges-for-birds/you-and-me-standing-parrot-cage


Some people also love these cages but I can't say I've been crazy about them myself....

https://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=5059+10346+5065+22937&pcatid=22937

Of course, there are many other cage options out there, too!


I must applaud you though! Most people wouldn't even consider that he's not an indian ringneck! Without a leg band though, it's hard to say if he was wild caught, avairy raised or even hand fed. Hand fed ringnecks can still be skittish and scared birds!
 
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It can be difficult finding a cage if you don't know where to look.

Here's a larger, and cheaper, cage! I have one this size that my IRN is in now - although I'd prefer it if she was in my largest cage. (that one is currently broken down until I have room for it again)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-E-Flight...-WITH-PURCHASE-/223164080218?oid=222977253735


Or there's this cage... which occasionally goes on sale for around $200

https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petco...ges-for-birds/you-and-me-standing-parrot-cage


Some people also love these cages but I can't say I've been crazy about them myself....

https://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=5059+10346+5065+22937&pcatid=22937

Of course, there are many other cage options out there, too!


I must applaud you though! Most people wouldn't even consider that he's not an indian ringneck! Without a leg band though, it's hard to say if he was wild caught, avairy raised or even hand fed. Hand fed ringnecks can still be skittish and scared birds!


Thank you so much for the cages. The first one is 0.5 bar spacing. Is that ok for an ARN? The second one doesn't have bar spacing on the website, thats probably the most stressful part about looking for cages online haha. Do you think its okay anyways? :O

Thank you :) As soon as I got him I did my research and realized his beak was very different, he was also thicker than IRNS. According to some sources on google ARN are a bit more cuddlier so I'm kinda glad about that haha. I guess maybe they did breed him, but didn't care enough to band him or anything. My mom told me he was in a cage the size he's in right now with like 7 other birds. Crazy.
 
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It can be difficult finding a cage if you don't know where to look.

I must applaud you though! Most people wouldn't even consider that he's not an indian ringneck! Without a leg band though, it's hard to say if he was wild caught, avairy raised or even hand fed. Hand fed ringnecks can still be skittish and scared birds!

Also, on another forum I was told ARN are not companion pets and that they would never be cuddly with me. Is this true as someone who has an ARN?
 
Not all parrots are cuddly... they can still be wonderful companions!

Hello, welcome!

Since you're a brand new parront, may I hit you with some basic advice? That bonding link from Christa above is a good one.

More on bonding...
General Parrot Information - Parrot Forum - Parrot Owner's Community
http://goodbirdinc.blogspot.com/2012...n-parrots.html


Most of us swear by our avian vets in the event of health concerns. I don't know where you are, but here are some links. I only have USA info...
Certified Avian Vets
https://abvp.com/animal-owners/find-an-abvp-specialist/
If none are near you...
Avian Veterinarians
http://www.aav.org/search/custom.asp?id=1803
In my opinion, any of the vets listed here should be better than a regular vet.

More on diet...
They need veggies, legumes, grains... pellets are a good staple. Here's what I use.
Harrison's Bird Foods
I feed Harrison's, supplemented by fresh healthy treats. My first, and later, my current avian vet recommended it. My bird loves the pellets now, but to get him converted, my avian vet suggested putting pellets out all day, and putting seeds (his old diet) out for two 15-minute periods a day. That would sustain him but leave him hungry enough to try new stuff. I presume the same technique could be used to get him to eat other healthy stuff, like fruits and vegetables! My guy was eating pellets in a couple of days, and now I can feed a good variety of other stuff, knowing he has the pellets as a basic. Pellets are out all day... fresh treats a few times a day. I also like Harrison's via mail because I never have to worry about out-of-date products.

I'll also just drop a note about avoiding teflon pans, which are lethal to birds if even slightly overheated.

I'm glad you're here. Lots to learn and share and enjoy!
 
Yes, fine for ARN! Actually, they are all 1/2" bar spacing. The Petco cage can house anything from finches to medium-large birds. Met someone who has at least 4 of the Petco cages for their conures. Couldn't believe it!

As far as ARN vs IRN... they're nearly identical in size. That said, IRN's are more popular, especially since they come in a variety of color mutations, so they end up being hand raised far more than ARN's do.... so most ARN's out there aren't really friendly/hands on. My own, being wild caught, she's not okay with being handled. After learning she was wild caught, I gave up trying to tame her as honestly, I'd rather see her in an aviary with another(s) ARN rather than a pet. The last thing that I'd want to happen for her is to end up in a home where she is clipped and left frightened.


If she was a hand raised bird, I'm sure my response would be greatly different.
 
You got him on the 24th of September sounds about right for new Indian ringneck to behave that way in new surroundings. When you say “try to hurt himself” do you mean thrashing? I would watch the thrashing but sounds like he’s just scared and will be fine in a week or so. When I first got my Indian ringneck she was terrified of hand and I think that had mostly to do the breeders way of handling bluffing. I don’t believe that progress was pushed back significantly but I do believe that you shouldn’t force the parrot to go back into the cage. When I first started letting my parrot out of the cage I barely every touched her. She came out by herself and went back in by herself, that helped out our trust significantly. I slowly started getting closer, playing with her, and petting her. Trust is key. Just make sure no dogs are near he’s out of the cage. My parrot uses her entire cage but she’s never slept on the bottom, she sleeps on the circular rope perch in the upper corner of her cage. Flapping of the wings can mean many things, my girl does it when she’s excited. I would get him checked out by an avian vet and then maybe buy him some new perches to sleep on, birds can be picky where the sleep. Congrats on the new bird!
 
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You got him on the 24th of September sounds about right for new Indian ringneck to behave that way in new surroundings. When you say “try to hurt himself” do you mean thrashing? I would watch the thrashing but sounds like he’s just scared and will be fine in a week or so. When I first got my Indian ringneck she was terrified of hand and I think that had mostly to do the breeders way of handling bluffing. I don’t believe that progress was pushed back significantly but I do believe that you shouldn’t force the parrot to go back into the cage. When I first started letting my parrot out of the cage I barely every touched her. She came out by herself and went back in by herself, that helped out our trust significantly. I slowly started getting closer, playing with her, and petting her. Trust is key. Just make sure no dogs are near he’s out of the cage. My parrot uses her entire cage but she’s never slept on the bottom, she sleeps on the circular rope perch in the upper corner of her cage. Flapping of the wings can mean many things, my girl does it when she’s excited. I would get him checked out by an avian vet and then maybe buy him some new perches to sleep on, birds can be picky where the sleep. Congrats on the new bird!


He's an african ringneck, but thank you! What i mean by hurting himself is that he goes to the corner of the cage and then turns upside down and slides down. i dont really understand why he does it.

His current temporary cage is waaaay too small for more perchs, but he's getting his new cage in about a week.

Do you have any advice for getting him into his bigger cage? I would greatly appreciate it.

Again thank you so much for the advice.

I'm also just a little scared that if I let him out, he won't go back into his cage.
 
If you can somehow match the (open) door of one cage to the other the bird will just walk/ climb through.
(use books/ boxes/ crates etc the build a base high enough to match)


Never met a bird who did not like a bigger cage (eventually).
Everytime I let mine pick one, the went for "supersize me".
 
He's an african ringneck, but thank you! What i mean by hurting himself is that he goes to the corner of the cage and then turns upside down and slides down. i dont really understand why he does it.

Do you have any advice for getting him into his bigger cage? I would greatly appreciate it.

That's a behavior I can understand... at least with mine, I'm pretty sure it was fear and trying to escape but not knowing how to... larger cage with ways to hide really helped. I picked her up in a really tiny cage and the rescue that had her didn't know what she was. I did the moment I saw her!

IMAG1246_zps0ebcdf9a.jpg


IMAG1253_zpsa6ba1480.jpg



As far as moving from one cage to the other... if the small cage fits into the bigger cage, then put it into the larger cage, leave the door open and allow him to come out on his own... or take the top off.

Otherwise, keep both doors open and put the cages up next to each other.
 
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As far as moving from one cage to the other... if the small cage fits into the bigger cage, then put it into the larger cage, leave the door open and allow him to come out on his own... or take the top off.

Otherwise, keep both doors open and put the cages up next to each other.

yes trying to escape makes sense! he would try to squeeze through the cage floor wires, but they're way too small (obviously lol)

thank you i will try just leaving the door open in front of the other cage.

thanks everyone for the great advice! <3
 

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