Meyer's Parrot - aggressive - letting him out of cage. Advice needed.

[SweetiePie]

I inherited SweetiePie -not so sweet - a few years ago. I received him because I was the only person he didn't bite. For maybe 5-10 years before I had him he was never let out of his cage. But before that, from birth to maybe 10 years he had free range all the time. I believe he is 20-25 years old.

I tried letting him out when I first got him. Didn't work out very well. Recently, our other 2 pets died so I am more comfortable letting him out again. I can only do it at night after my kids have went to bed, because he tries to bite both them and my husband. He can do serious damage when he wants to.

Obviously he is not very well trained, if at all. He trusts me but nobody else. So. I've been letting him out, but he only sits on my arm/shoulder or on top of his cage when out. I've started with 20-30 minutes each night. I'll admit I'm even slightly scared of him, because I've seen the damage he can do.

I am in serious need of advice on how to train him. Where to start etc. He doesn't much like to stay on my hand or fingers, he always tries for my shoulder, although I usually try to block him so he stays on my arm. Additionally, I really want to be able to trust him around my boys and husband, but he has a very real fear of any male.

Even advice as to specific toys he'd prefer? He has a rubber hole filled ball with a bell he loves, but any other toy I've introduced he's avoided like the plague.

Sorry this is getting long, but seriously, any and all advice is appreciated.

 

[RavensGryf]

I think it's probably best to keep him on your arm for now, even though he wants your shoulder. A bird with a tendency to bite, along with a person who's even a bit apprehensive about it isn't a good combination for a shoulder bird IMHO. ..and I know all about the strength of that Poi beak, trust me!

Sounds like he is just becoming used to a new routine in your home, so I can see why HE would be a bit apprehensive too! Even though he's been your little guy for a while, I'd treat the situation as if he's an older rehomed bird.. having to discover new things, become comfortable, and learn boundaries. After he's ready, you can even teach him tricks which will enforce your bonding. Poicephalus parrots aren't usually as receptive to becoming a sweet member to the whole family. It has to do with their natural behavior in the wild. That being said, Robin my Red Bellied (poi) was a one person bird for most of his life and has bitten numerous people over the 20 years I've had him (both male and female humans), but one day he met my husband and it was instant love. I couldn't believe it. Don is also one of those people who just have "something" animals like, that people can't "see". But, there is no guarantee he will ever be safe around your male family members. We can try working on that later, but for now, why not get started on bonding with SweetiePie .

This thread has a lot of good tips on the use of clicker training. It might be something well worth looking into for your situation with SweetiePie. http://www.parrotforums.com/general-parrot-information/49144-tips-bonding-building-trust.html

 

[MeandMeena]

well i have a rehomed Meyer's parrot (Poicephalus meyeri) i.. what i can tell you that you are doing wrong is KEEPING THEM UP DURING SUNDOWN! My bird needs 11 hours of sleep or better to be in a good jolly mood. I wake up at sunrise to feed her. It is very important for this bird to sleep. I even did research about this. I have had Meena for 3 months now. We have such a bond of trust once i followed the rules we both began to trust each other. this bird is a bit nippy when she is in a mad mood.. Make sure you do that and follow my advice first. I will tell you more once you get used to this method. She is also 20 years old. My first bird.

 

[SweetiePie]

Thank you, I read the link you sent. I imagine that would be a good idea, I'll have to look into the clicker. Another thing I'm struggling with is getting him back in his cage after our out of cage time. Typically I'll have to get him on my arm then move close to the cage so he'll climb on voluntarily then I'll close the door. He doesn't like to get off of me at all though. Last night he got spooked when my husband walked in (he even walked in very slowly) and flew to our blinds. I put my hand up, he flew a few circles in the kitchen then came at me full speed. He's never done that before and it did scare me. So I put my arm up and closed my eyes (lol) and sure enough he landed on my arm.

I've never owned a bird except tiny ones as a child so this is all new to me. I've been around my uncle's large Amazon parrots but they are well trained and gentle. In fact he bought a bar and named it after his parrot, Merlin

 

[JerseyWendy]

well i have a rehomed Meyer's parrot (Poicephalus meyeri) i.. what i can tell you that you are doing wrong is KEEPING THEM UP DURING SUNDOWN! ......She is also 20 years old. My first bird.

Ahem..... NO, not necessarily. Our birds WILL adjust to OUR schedules, believe it or not. Yes, uninterrupted sleep is certainly recommended, but unfortunately, in the real world, not every parront's schedule coincides with that of natural dawn and dusk.

 

[RavensGryf]

It sounds like you're doing fine getting SweetiePie into his cage since you say he will climb on voluntarily. Also, if he will take food from your fingers, a small piece of nut, or single safflower or sunflower seed (or other favorite treat) to 'lure him in' is a good way too! They fall for it everytime lol.

Wendy and Terry's post about sleep is correct. In the "real world" they do have to adapt. While 11-12 hours is certainly optimal, and recommended by avian health professionals. IF you can do that, great... But if current circumstances make so it's not feasible at this time, get them as much sleep as you can (longer than you sleep ideally ) Also, there are MANY MORE REASONS to biting (or stopping) than sleep habits... Good luck with SweetPea, I think you'll do fine!

 

[Terry57]

well i have a rehomed Meyer's parrot (Poicephalus meyeri) i.. what i can tell you that you are doing wrong is KEEPING THEM UP DURING SUNDOWN! ......She is also 20 years old. My first bird.

Ahem..... NO, not necessarily. Our birds WILL adjust to OUR schedules, believe it or not. Yes, uninterrupted sleep is certainly recommended, but unfortunately, in the real world, not every parront's schedule coincides with that of natural dawn and dusk.

I agree with Wendy about the dawn and dusk. We live in Canada so to put them to bed at dusk would mean 4:30pm in the winter. Our birds stay up until 8:30 and get up between 11 and 12 hours later. They do just fine with that schedule

That link that Ravengryf provided has loads of good info in it, and I hope you are able to find something that helps you. When trying to get him back into the cage, can you use a favourite treat that he only gets after going back in?

 

[SweetiePie]

Well he's currently on my kids' sleep schedule. He even naps when they nap haha. My boys go to bed at 7 and sweetie pie has his time with me usually 730-8 pm. He goes to bed shortly thereafter. Although I won't be able to let him out tonight because my husband works during that time (which never happens really). I guess I'll just have to give him extra love tonight. I will definitely be trying the treat trick. I'll probably take the sunflower seeds out of his food and use those. Any ideas how to introduce new toys?

 

[Grraarrgghh]

As well, do you have a UVA/UVB lamp? Avian-rated full spectrum lighting is very important for a parrots mental state, and could definitely contribute to his aggressiveness.

Proper diet, food variety, etc can definitely be somewhere to look as well.

 

[RavensGryf]

I personally think he's just adjusting to a new way of living, and is getting used to being handled again. I think this amount of trying to bite is probably normal at this stage as he gets to know you and trust you more. It doesn't mean you need to look for any parameter of care being "off" at this time, as I personally doubt the biting is coming from any particular thing being so "off". Afterall, this isn't a new bird, the only thing that's changed is that you're attempting to get to "know" him

You also asked about toys. My 2 Poicephalus both LOVE biting on hard objects like plastic chain links, toys with hard plastic mini pacifiers and various hard plastic objects hanging. Also try shreddable toys. All birds seem to go for these!

 

[SweetiePie]

I've tried shredding toys, he wouldn't touch them. He does like shredded newspaper which I put in for him.

My husband didn't end up working so I let him out again. He came straight to me. Tried to stop him from going up to my shoulder but failed. I had cut up apples as a treat which are his favorite, and tried putting it on my lower arm telling him "come". He didn't, I hid it, retried at least 15 times but no luck. He wouldn't budge! He wouldn't go to my other arm either, I finally got him off by leaning to his cage and he climbed onto it.

After that I got him on arm, tried blocking my shoulder, he got mad. So I put him back on cage. After a bunch of retries I finally just gave him some love and had him go back in cage.

Also, he doesn't bite me. I can put my finger near his beak and he'll just do what I call love bites, where he doesn't really do anything. Its like he's just investigating or something. He hasn't snapped at me or tried to bite me in years. But I can tell when he's getting agitated and I will back off.

I'm going to keep trying but I hate having zero progress!

 

[RavensGryf]

I wouldn't say zero progress! At least he sees you as his person . He's not attacking you, he's actually giving little love bites . At least you have that. Anything else you want to teach him is just going to take time and consistency. How much time depends on variables between individual person and individual bird, but parrots are smart. You need to be consistent though.

Hm, about the shoulder... If you feel you can trust him up there go ahead, but IMHO a position on the shoulder has to be earned. Before he climbs up there, can you quickly put your other hand up and take him off the arm he's running up? Say a firm "no". You can even hold him in your hand and look at him and pat your shoulder or point to your shoulder with your hand on the other side, and say "NO". As annoying as it is, keep doing it. Over and over. Don't LET him climb up there. Your other arm is quicker than his little feet are! Reward with a tiny food to treat for a longer moment than normal staying on your hand.

That clicker training sticky is a good one! The link I gave you here earlier.

 

[SweetiePie]

Well I have good news! I managed to keep him on my arm tonight. He kept trying for the shoulder but I was able to block him with my other hand. He still won't go to my actual hand but that's okay. I imagine we will get there some day. He gets mad every time I block him but obviously not mad enough to do anything about it. He definitely tried pushing his limits though doing his "love bites" - not so lovingly - I could tell he was mad so I said no and took my hand away each time. Once I thought he would try to fly off (just to come back to land on my shoulder I'm sure) but I got him calm again. I've figured out the easiest way to get him back in his cage is to put my elbow just slightly in his cage where he then climbs to his food dish. So that's nice.

 

[RavensGryf]

Yay! See?! I think you're doing just fine with SweetiePie .

 

[Hawk]

It sounds like you're doing fine getting SweetiePie into his cage since you say he will climb on voluntarily. Also, if he will take food from your fingers, a small piece of nut, or single safflower or sunflower seed (or other favorite treat) to 'lure him in' is a good way too! They fall for it everytime lol.

Wendy and Terry's post about sleep is correct. In the "real world" they do have to adapt. While 11-12 hours is certainly optimal, and recommended by avian health professionals. IF you can do that, great... But if current circumstances make so it's not feasible at this time, get them as much sleep as you can (longer than you sleep ideally ) Also, there are MANY MORE REASONS to biting (or stopping) than sleep habits... Good luck with SweetPea, I think you'll do fine!

I agree, My 5 birds are up around 7-8 am and they have a nap from around 12:30 pm to around 2pm, then they stay up around 9pm to sometimes 10:30 pm ....they have no problem with that schedule. If a bird is tired it will sleep, and the signs are there when they are tired ( the big yaaaaawwwn. ) If my birds need extra sleep, they'll sleep in or want to go to bed early, I don't force them.

In the real world, their natural habitat, no one puts them to bed, there is no set schedule and certainly no wake up call...it's all natural.
So sleep( or lack of) is probably the least likely to make them bite.

Wouldn't be able to give an answer or help out without knowing your exact routine, or what may have recently changed. it's also coming into mating season, which they can get a bit cranky so to speak.

 

[Betrisher]

Coming in late to this thread, but try to remember your bird is only biting out of fear or confusion. He's not trying to hurt anyone, he's just not sure of where the goal posts are just yet.

If he won't leave your shoulder you could try this trick. Squat down as low to the ground as you can and raise your arm (the one whose shoulder contains the parrot) right up high. Birdie ought to do the usual thing and try for the highest point, so he ought to clamber up your arm to your hand. Give him a reward every time he does this for you and he should soon learn that your wrist is the place to sit.

If he's going for your boys, could it be because they're playing and being loud around his cage? Lost of birds can't cope with that when they change addresses, so you could get the boys to help in birdie's rehab by encouraging them to slow down and speak very quietly around his cage. They could also feed him treats through the bars (millet spray, long sticks of celery, even long blades of grass or dandelion leaves). It takes time - sometimes days, sometimes months, maybe even a year, depending on how sensitive your bird is. If you work with him every day, though, even for ten or twenty minutes, he'll improve.

I have a sometimes-bitey old Galah (name of Dominic) who will frequently chuck a tanty at going back into his cage. We improved things by putting a rope perch (the sort with screw-on ends that fix to the cage bars) above his cage door. That way, you can stick your hand in with the bird on it and sort of scrape him off on the perch before he - um - 'disciplines' you with his beak. Of course, it's nicer to coax him in with a favourite treat, but that doesn't always work with cunning old birds.

I'm impressed that you've bothered to look after this bird, given his difficult behaviour and all! Good on you! The thing is, with patience and a little bit of attention every single day, he can become a great family pet. Keep checking for hints on behavioural problems and you'll gradually work out what works best for you and your bird. YouTube is a wonderful place to get hints on 'taming' or 'hand-taming' or 'stop a bird from biting'. My favourite is a person called Barbara Heidenreich, but there are others out there who give great advice. You can always ask your questions here and whoever's available to help will surely do so. Best of luck!

 

[SweetiePie]

It has been difficult to keep him I'll admit. My husband always comes up with more reasons I should give him away. But. He was originally bred by my great aunt, given to my great grandma. When she passed, my gram took him. He liked her as much as he likes me. Anyways. My gram passed as well, she was like my second mom. I took the bird a few months prior because she couldn't care for him anymore. I was supposed to get many things from her, but SweetiePie is all I got. So I don't think I'll ever be able to get rid of him!

Like I said - he doesn't bite me. I can't trust my boys to feed him or be super nice quite yet. Oldest is 3 youngest is almost 2. They don't understand yet. I'm sure the reason he doesn't like my oldest is because he had a phase where I'd catch him shaking his cage.

 

[RavensGryf]

That's so nice that SweetiePie stayed in the family. He's an heirloom lol.

I didn't realize your boys were so little . IMHO (if I had very young kids) I wouldn't let them handle any Poicephalus until the child was at an age that they understand the concept that if they get bit and the bird hangs on, it can cause damage and intense pain, and they don't fling or throw their hand to get the bird off. Also understanding emotionally that it isn't "personal" so much as parrots are essentially wild animals. If a child is too young to understand that, it could cause them to have a fear or hate for birds that can last a lifetime.