- Dec 18, 2013
- 22,301
- 4,216
- Parrots
- Maya (Female Solomon Island eclectus parrot), Jolly (Male Solomon Island eclectus parrot), Bixby (Male, red-sided eclectus. RIP), Suzie (Male cockatiel. RIP)
This post is adapted from a pm response I'd made to a member regarding the introduction of a 2nd bird when the first was aggressively jealous. It hit me that this question is asked quite often, so I thought it might be helpful to make a post about it here.
Okay, here's the bad news. Some birds, like some people, simply never grow to like each other. Ever.
BUT...
On the lighter side of that realization are two less sobering points. For one, just because two birds don't like each other now doesn't mean it will always be that way. Sometimes there is just an adjustment period that they must go through and, if managed correctly, can get past.
And second, even if they never grow to be particularly fond of one another, they can certainly learn to tolerate each other. Again, much like people. My ekkies fall more under this category.
The following steps may take a lot of work over the next month or two... or three. But in the end, it will be well worth it.
1) Make sure you have at least two play/tree stands. Endeavor to make the two equally interesting. (If you don't have 2 stands, you can do this from the tops of their cages... assuming neither bird is cage-territorial.)
2) Establish a turn-based system with them. You have to be extremely consistent with this. It takes a while, but they eventually come to understand that if you are working with one of them, you WILL be coming to the other next. For me, I combined the implementation of this system with station training. Basically, I always start with my more capable flier (Jolly). Why? Because he's the pain in the butt who'll come flying over while I'm working with the other bird. So best to satisfy him first.
So I do a trick or flying drill or whatever with him, rewarding him handsomely with one of his favorite treats (usually a sliver of a nut). Then I use my station word - in this case, "wait" - and go to Maya's tree stand while he is still eating. I do a trick or targeting drill with her, back completely turned to him, and reward her for doing whatever I've asked of her. Then I turn back to him.
Yeah, this goes smoothly now. But not so much in the beginning. Which leads us to 3.
3) Be clear about what is acceptable and what is not in terms of their behavior under this new dynamic. Yes, we have to understand that this situation is something new for them. But clearly defined boundaries must be set. This is key.
For "soft" infractions, such as when Jolly used to fly over to my shoulder while I'm working with Maya, I acted immediately by removing him from my shoulder and putting him back on his tree stand. Once on his tree stand, I again tell him "wait" while using whatever gesture I associate with the word. In our case, an upraised finger like what one might do if obnoxiously telling a person to wait. Lol! And then I turned back and continued to work with Maya. You might have to repeat this a few times before the lesson hits home. But they eventually get the message.
For "hard" infractions, such as nipping/biting either you (displacement biting) or the true object of his ire, the other bird, the offender would be put on immediate timeout. This should only last around 5-10 minutes before you bring him back into the session. In the earlier stages, you'll likely have to put him right back on time out after taking him out of it because he may repeatedly go after the other bird... or you. Don't be discouraged by this. Though frustrating, just know this happens in some cases. Just take a VERY deep breath and soldier on. It's simply a matter of being just that much more stubborn than he is. He'll eventually get the message.
4) Reward desired behaviors generously with favored treats and enthusiastic praise! This includes when either bird stays put after the stationing command. Make a big deal of it. Full on spectacle.
Following these steps consistently for as long as it takes can make all the difference in the world.
Okay, here's the bad news. Some birds, like some people, simply never grow to like each other. Ever.
BUT...
On the lighter side of that realization are two less sobering points. For one, just because two birds don't like each other now doesn't mean it will always be that way. Sometimes there is just an adjustment period that they must go through and, if managed correctly, can get past.
And second, even if they never grow to be particularly fond of one another, they can certainly learn to tolerate each other. Again, much like people. My ekkies fall more under this category.
The following steps may take a lot of work over the next month or two... or three. But in the end, it will be well worth it.
1) Make sure you have at least two play/tree stands. Endeavor to make the two equally interesting. (If you don't have 2 stands, you can do this from the tops of their cages... assuming neither bird is cage-territorial.)
2) Establish a turn-based system with them. You have to be extremely consistent with this. It takes a while, but they eventually come to understand that if you are working with one of them, you WILL be coming to the other next. For me, I combined the implementation of this system with station training. Basically, I always start with my more capable flier (Jolly). Why? Because he's the pain in the butt who'll come flying over while I'm working with the other bird. So best to satisfy him first.
So I do a trick or flying drill or whatever with him, rewarding him handsomely with one of his favorite treats (usually a sliver of a nut). Then I use my station word - in this case, "wait" - and go to Maya's tree stand while he is still eating. I do a trick or targeting drill with her, back completely turned to him, and reward her for doing whatever I've asked of her. Then I turn back to him.
Yeah, this goes smoothly now. But not so much in the beginning. Which leads us to 3.
3) Be clear about what is acceptable and what is not in terms of their behavior under this new dynamic. Yes, we have to understand that this situation is something new for them. But clearly defined boundaries must be set. This is key.
For "soft" infractions, such as when Jolly used to fly over to my shoulder while I'm working with Maya, I acted immediately by removing him from my shoulder and putting him back on his tree stand. Once on his tree stand, I again tell him "wait" while using whatever gesture I associate with the word. In our case, an upraised finger like what one might do if obnoxiously telling a person to wait. Lol! And then I turned back and continued to work with Maya. You might have to repeat this a few times before the lesson hits home. But they eventually get the message.
For "hard" infractions, such as nipping/biting either you (displacement biting) or the true object of his ire, the other bird, the offender would be put on immediate timeout. This should only last around 5-10 minutes before you bring him back into the session. In the earlier stages, you'll likely have to put him right back on time out after taking him out of it because he may repeatedly go after the other bird... or you. Don't be discouraged by this. Though frustrating, just know this happens in some cases. Just take a VERY deep breath and soldier on. It's simply a matter of being just that much more stubborn than he is. He'll eventually get the message.
4) Reward desired behaviors generously with favored treats and enthusiastic praise! This includes when either bird stays put after the stationing command. Make a big deal of it. Full on spectacle.
Following these steps consistently for as long as it takes can make all the difference in the world.
