Green cheek conure bronzing feathers

skymba

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Dec 12, 2015
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Hi everyone I'm hoping to get some sound advice on this forum. I've recently adopted green cheek conure from someone who found it and was unclaimed...i dont know the person so I simply collected the bird last week as he could not look after it due to having other pets. But why broken and bronzing feathers? Is it a moult (do they moult just before summer?), lack of sunlight or vitamins in its previous home, or more likely stress from escaping and then being moved about? It's very friendly and talks, it's rather dominant. I have it out with my 2 quakers all the time and they seem to get on and are happy to share my shoulder, knees and head and prune haha. I'm just puzzled with the dark feathers as I realise they are meant to be a vibrant green. I have seen several pin feathers on its head but none that I can see on the wings and that area is my main concern. I feed seed diet with fresh fruit and veg to all my birds and haven't seen this before. Any advice would be great.
 

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Hi there, and welcome to the forums. :)

My main advice would be to get your new bird to an Avian vet ASAP, mainly to rule out any communicable diseases. Since you don’t know anything about him/her, other than that she was found outside, I’d be very careful having her around your Quakers until you have a clean bill of health. Since you’ve already introduced them, quarantine is useless, unfortunately.

My first guess as to her bronzing would be an inadequate diet. Again, IMO a vet visit is in order.
 
Just like it was mentioned above, you should take him to a avian vet for a check up. Those signs on their feathers usually signals you when there's a health related issue or diet related. Did you have him quarantined?
 
I agree with both of the above. Plumage is often a great indicator of health. I have certainly noticed that with Skittles. His coloring of his plumage is much richer than when I first got him. He practically glows in the dark now. LOL.

Discoloration of plumage is usually a sign of poor diet or genetics. Best thing to do is have a check-up and some blood work done, a panel to rule out likely factors.
 
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Thanks guys. No I haven't had it quarantined. I didn't know they had to be. I guess a vet check is handy. I'm no parrot disease expert but the it'd looks to be very alert and healthy. It has a leg band so I'd assume is from a breeder stock.
 
Hi, skymba! Your feather-kid's seed diet might be the problem, even though he was that way when you adopted him. Please be prepared for when the veterinarian tells you to wean your little dudes off seeds and onto pellets.

In captivity, seed-based diets (even when supplemented with fruits and vegetables) are high in fat and lead to vitamin and mineral deficiencies (vitamin A and calcium, for example). And vitamin A deficiency can result in feather discoloration.

Feeding a seed-based diet to a conure is like feeding a candy-based diet to a child. I hope it doesn't offend you that I'm saying this! It's great that you give your birds fresh fruits and vegetables, but it probably isn't enough — especially for the new kid. He might be coming from a situation where he had a very poor diet, and needs super-good nutrition now to recover.

Good luck to you and your flock!

ETA: I am still in the process of weaning Pépe off seeds, at my veterinarian's recent recommendation (his first visit after we adopted him in October). As with any animal, it's not good to change a conure's diet abruptly — that can lead to diarrhea, stomach upset, and other problems. After Pépe is pretty much weaned down from seed dependence, he will still get them daily in small amounts as treats. As of today, he's still getting a mixture of ZuPreem (it's a trusted brand, if you're looking) pellets and locally packaged seeds (they seem to be of higher quality). But I'm a soft touch — it's hard not to give him what he loves! Especially when he's so adept at expressing his displeasure about it. :D This turned out to be a much longer postscript than intended … sorry about that! Back to lurking I go.
 
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So many health problems with birds are linked to poor diet. Usually it is an all seed diet that is the culprit. You can still feed your bird seeds but I'd add some other form of supplement, such as pellets. And I'd divide them up, rather than offering them both at the same time (whos gonna choose an apple over a candy bar? LOL).

In my opinion, the best and most fortified diet consists of (in order) pellets, fresh fruits/veggies/grains followed by some sort of 'treat'.

With Skittles, his diet consists of 40% Harrisons pellets, 30% Harrisons power treats and 30% fruit, veggies and grains. I do feed him millet spray on occasion as a treat. Though those power treats are just that, treats.

I think this speaks for itself:
Skittles%20-%20PS%2002%2006.jpg
 
I've had to semi-recently incorporate more seed into Pazu's diet, as treats when I put him away (I can't get him to go back into his cage otherwise) but I use nutiberries (26%pellet ). Though a plus fo r nutiberries is he seems to enjoy tearing them apart first so he isn't eating the whole thing.
 
Grats on your new family member.

When we first got Foo she has a lot of bronzing too. Not quiet to the degree of your's but pretty close.

The first thing she was willing to try outside of her junky seed diet was the nutriberries that zepherfly mentioned.

It took about a year to get her eating a pellet diet and fresh foods. I'ts been closer to 5 years now and she is willing to try a lot of foods now.

The bronzing went away during the first molt. Her diet was better but still not super great, since that was probably only about 6 months after she joined our family. I'm sure previous stress was a problem as well. We got her from a pet store who had been given her because she was a biter. Don't know anything else about her past.

If you can have a blood panel ran by a vet to make sure there is nothing medically wrong, then just working on diet and incorporating her into your family will make a world of difference. Since you don't have a past on her, I'd worry about kidney and liver function a bit. That was my concern with Foo and her poor feather quality initially.
 
So many health problems with birds are linked to poor diet. Usually it is an all seed diet that is the culprit.
I think this speaks for itself:
Skittles%20-%20PS%2002%2006.jpg

Another thing that strikes me about those photos is how much more slender Skitty looks in the after photo. As you know, seeds are a high-calorie food, and you can really see the difference in your photos! He looks slender and his feathers are shiny and he generally looks healthy and happy. Yay for happy birds! :orange:
 
You know, I hadn't noticed the weight difference. I've always thought he's too skinny, but the vet says his weight is perfect. He weighs about 118g in the right photo, I've no idea what he weighed in the left one.

I particular notice the 'shine' that is evident in the right but not in the left. But also, his feet. They feel soft and smooth now, but they felt hard and scaly when I first got him.
 
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Thank you everyone your suggestions and great advice have been taken on board. I might just go and get some pellets for my feathered friends. I went to the vets yesterday and the feedback was that the wings were damaged. This was most likely due to weakened feathers from a poor diet. The vet didn't suggest pellets however he said fresh fruit and veg is a must and the seed I was using had a great variety of smaller seeds and very little sunflower which is the biggest contributer to liver problems. Reading your posts though it makes sense not to have enough entire diet based on seed.
I also not that my conure has a leg band. The last 4 digits state 2415. Does that mean he was born on the 2nd April 2015? Or am I completely off the mark? If he is that age he shld be technically going through his first big molt?
Anyways thanks again everyone. You've all been most helpful :)
 
To my knowledge, the last two digits of the band are the year (for your band). Skittles band had "CEW ME -10-14. The CEW is the breeders initials. The ME is state initials, 10 referred to the year and I think the 14 had something to do with hatching/breeding number or license.

I do think these can vary by state. I would guess that the 15 is referring to your year. But I don't think the date. If that breeder had more than one bird hatch on that day then they would all have identical bands. Chances are the 24 has something to do with the hatch number, but that's just a guess.

The leg bands are pretty useless. They only come in handy if you lose your bird and someone finds it and you have to prove its your bird. But in that event, the thief would probably cut the band off before. There is no database (like the microchip for dogs).

Also, there have been far too many incidents of birds getting a foot trapped because of the bands. When you take your bird to the vet, they can remove it. Don't try to remove it yourself.
 
PS,

Yes, fresh fruits and veggies are a must as well as grains. Try to stick with organic if you can. If not, go with frozen (defrost first) or be sure to wash the produce well. If it's something with a peel (apple, grape, banana, orange etc), then wash it, peel it and then go from there.

I would still try to find some sort of pellet to introduce as well. Parrots should have a varied diet. I don't feed Skittles seeds at all (except for millet spray). His diet consists of Harrisons pellets, fresh fruit, veggies, eggs, pasta and grains as well as power treats.

Try offering different foods at different times of the day. Don't feed them all things all at once. You'll then figure out what your bird likes and when they like it. Skittles, for example, likes juice in the morning.

Also, for foods - stick with the dark green or orange "meaty" produce that are rich in Vitamin A (broccoli, carrots, sweet potatoes, papaya, mango, star fruit etc). STAY AWAY from Avocado, it's poisonous to birds.
 
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Thank you :)
Yes I knew about avocado. I love the an stuff but I make sure the birds are away when I get it out for my breakky :)
I went shopping for fresh veg today and came home with a heap. The birds are loving it. I just need to try to find a place that sells Harrison pellets and how to introduce them. I had tried pellets about 8 years ago and it was a complete waste because the birds didn't touch it and protested by refusing to eat for 3 whole days. I couldn't bare it. I gave it to the chooks and they loved it. I think I have to be persistent... and keep the transition gradual over several months as opposed to several weeks.
 
Hi, mine looked a lot like that when I got him (even had a small bald spot on top of his head) - he now gets pellets and lots of fresh fruit/veggie options, and he's grown about 50% more feathers and started to molt out the damaged ones. The new ones look very shiny and pretty.

He was on some kind of crap food at petsmart with lots of seeds before I got him, and the second I introduced him to pellets (roudybush) he got very excited and now likes to rub his face in them enthusiastically before he eats.
 
Skymba - Harrison's makes a "bird bread" (Original, Hot Pepper, or Millet & Flax) that is wonderful for transitioning to a pellet diet. In fact, the bread base is made mostly of ground up pellet food. You can add seeds into the batter before baking so it creates a sort-of foraging toy. The goal is to get your bird to obtain an acquired taste to the pellet bread during the foraging for the seeds. Here's a link. I recommend this to a lot of people. I've had some stubborn rescues and this really works! It's nice too because you can make a batch and freeze whatever you aren't using right away :) Diet Conversion: Small Bird | Harrison's Bird Foods

You can also make a "mash" with pellets (soak them in luke warm water for a couple minutes and add some seeds into the mash, stir & serve). Your bird will inevitably ingest some pellets while foraging to pick out the seeds. The only down side to the mash method is that it spoils quickly (you don't want to leave it out for more than about 30 minutes).
 
@skymba Harrisons offers plans on how to introduce and convert to pellets. It's not a guarantee or a one size fits all but it's an 'idea'. Ultimately, of course, your main goal needs to be that you are ensuring they are getting proper nourishment so if they don't eat the pellets, they don't starve.

Harrisons also offers 'power treats', they have a lot of the same ingredients as the pellets, however, they also have peanuts in them (organic) and birds just love peanuts! It's great to use as a conversion tool. As is the bread. For me though, Skittles wouldn't eat the bread, but Peaches would. However, I lucked out, I didn't even have to convert mine over, they just took right to it. Some birds will, some will not no matter how hard you try. It's a gamble either way.

You can find Harrisons on their website (that rosembers linked to) and they also sell Harrisons at other places online and even at some veterinarian offices.

If cost is an issue, you may be able to get some 'free samples' from Harrisons. I've done that before when I wanted to try something before buying a whole bag.
 
Thanks guys. No I haven't had it quarantined. I didn't know they had to be. I guess a vet check is handy. I'm no parrot disease expert but the it'd looks to be very alert and healthy. It has a leg band so I'd assume is from a breeder stock.

Although from a breeder, they can still be carriers of diseases. They can look alert and healthy but they still be carriers and not show up until later on during stress periods when they pop up out of no where. But like others have posted, it may be just diet related issue as it is the case most of the time. Good luck on finding the solution.
 
@MikeyTN That is true. Even after Skittles passed his initial vet check-up, the vet told me to continue with the quarantine. Not every disease, illness, issue is going to be detected in a single vet visit and birds are masters of masking illness. Since people haven't had time to learn to read their new birds, finding the signs (if any) can be quite daunting.
 

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