Do you really want a cockatoo ?

Matthewsbirdhouse

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Jun 15, 2020
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I would like everyone to know I love my bird I have accepted my bird and I do these videos to show you guy what my life is like with lily the cockatoo ! Hopefully it will save someone from buying a bird they can not handle or even house ! Lily is an amazing bird other than the few bad habits she has !


[ame="https://youtu.be/JL7Op8mkzPc"]Laugh at my pain - YouTube[/ame]

:white1::white1::white1:
 
Hopefully you can work with Lilly and reduce the amount of calling to you. Other than the noise, which is perfectly normal for cockatoos, she seems loving and gentle.
 
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Hopefully you can work with Lilly and reduce the amount of calling to you. Other than the noise, which is perfectly normal for cockatoos, she seems loving and gentle.

Yes I’m working on it everyday ! She’s amazing other then the calling trying to do anything I watched almost every YouTube video
 
Hopefully you can work with Lilly and reduce the amount of calling to you. Other than the noise, which is perfectly normal for cockatoos, she seems loving and gentle.

Yes I’m working on it everyday ! She’s amazing other then the calling trying to do anything I watched almost every YouTube video

I am probably late in the game here, and it may have been said already, but here is what worked for me-- and it took months of consistency for it to stick.
If you leave the room,
1: talk to your bird BEFORE the screaming starts.

2. Use key-words to help them anticipate what you are doing and time-frames. If I will be gone for 1-3 hours, I say "going to the store". If it will be the majority of the day, I say "going to work"--I do this every time.

3. Once the screaming starts (excluding fear screaming which has a totally dif sound), DO NOT attend to your bird in any way until it stops for a set period of time. Start with 5 seconds. Do not look at her, do not talk to her, do not talk about her, and do not re-enter the room if you are not already there. When there is a break in screaming, count 1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi, 3, Mississippi, 4....5..... If you get to 5 Mississippi and she has been silent that whole time, immediately return, praise and say something like "thanks for getting quiet-- using a quiet voice yourself. Do this for a week or 2 until it's not THAT hard to get through the 5 seconds. Then up it to 10 seconds (or start at 10 if 5 is too easy). Any screaming in between 1-5 and/or 1-10 restarts the count completely.
Plan ahead so you aren't having to go back in the room to get things because you do have to wait it out--coming back in (even to grab your phone) mid-attention-scream fest is rewarding that behavior. You might also invest in some silicone/putty earplugs because 10 seconds can be a challenge initially...at least it was for mine.
Now, at least at my house, she never does the hour long scream-fests she used to do when I got her if I left the room.
Everyone has to follow the same rules--- don't ever tell a screaming bird (who is screaming for attention) to be quiet or anything-- even eye-contact tells them that by screaming they got your attention.

4. Also, make sure your relationship with your bird is not inadvertently sexual. This can increase their "obsession" with you but it can also lead to screaming, aggression and self-destructive behaviors long-term. Pet only on the head and neck and do not allow your bird to access shadowy places in or around the cage (hormonal triggers). Do no allow under blankets, clothing, piles of paper, in boxes etc.

5. Make sure you are teaching your bird to play--model the behavior (playing with toys etc) and reward your bird with attention and a treat whenever you see him/her playing with a toy...at least initially while they are learning.
 
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Hopefully you can work with Lilly and reduce the amount of calling to you. Other than the noise, which is perfectly normal for cockatoos, she seems loving and gentle.

Yes I’m working on it everyday ! She’s amazing other then the calling trying to do anything I watched almost every YouTube video

I am probably late in the game here, and it may have been said already, but here is what worked for me-- and it took months of consistency for it to stick.
If you leave the room,
1: talk to your bird BEFORE the screaming starts.

2. Use key-words to help them anticipate what you are doing and time-frames. If I will be gone for 1-3 hours, I say "going to the store". If it will be the majority of the day, I say "going to work"--I do this every time.

3. Once the screaming starts (excluding fear screaming which has a totally dif sound), DO NOT attend to your bird in any way until it stops for a set period of time. Start with 5 seconds. Do not look at her, do not talk to her, do not talk about her, and do not re-enter the room if you are not already there. When there is a break in screaming, count 1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi, 3, Mississippi, 4....5..... If you get to 5 Mississippi and she has been silent that whole time, immediately return, praise and say something like "thanks for getting quiet-- using a quiet voice yourself. Do this for a week or 2 until it's not THAT hard to get through the 5 seconds. Then up it to 10 seconds (or start at 10 if 5 is too easy). Any screaming in between 1-5 and/or 1-10 restarts the count completely.
Plan ahead so you aren't having to go back in the room to get things because you do have to wait it out--coming back in (even to grab your phone) mid-attention-scream fest is rewarding that behavior. You might also invest in some silicone/putty earplugs because 10 seconds can be a challenge initially...at least it was for mine.
Now, at least at my house, she never does the hour long scream-fests she used to do when I got her if I left the room.
Everyone has to follow the same rules--- don't ever tell a screaming bird (who is screaming for attention) to be quiet or anything-- even eye-contact tells them that by screaming they got your attention.

4. Also, make sure your relationship with your bird is not inadvertently sexual. This can increase their "obsession" with you but it can also lead to screaming, aggression and self-destructive behaviors long-term. Pet only on the head and neck and do not allow your bird to access shadowy places in or around the cage (hormonal triggers). Do no allow under blankets, clothing, piles of paper, in boxes etc.

5. Make sure you are teaching your bird to play--model the behavior (playing with toys etc) and reward your bird with attention and a treat whenever you see him/her playing with a toy...at least initially while they are learning.

Noodles ur awesome learn a lot from this post yea she sometimes goes for a few hours I’m def super patient and everyone in the house is on board !
 
Remember- it is natural for them to flock call, so you need to give them a lot of attention in general and try to prevent screaming ahead of time, but the attention screaming (assuming they get plenty of time with you during the day/time out of their cage etc) will not work well long-term in a home...which is why you have to tough it out this way.

In a pinch---let's say your bird is on a 2-hour scream fit and you left your keys in that room (which you need), you can hide behind a wall (where the bird CANNOT see you) and toss something VERY small into the room---not to scare the bird, but to distract them from their current scream-fest. They will more than likely get quiet to look at the object and at that point, start your 5-count and if they make it to 5 or 10 (whatever you are using) you can come back in, make a huge deal about how awesome they are for getting quiet etc, and grab your keys (but try not to leave again right away lol! or you aren't rewarding them much). DO NOT DO THIS OFTEN-- this should be a last-resort thing--very infrequent...if you do it too much it loses its novelty and could actually seem like a reward to the bird if they figure out the pattern.

If you can place your bird on various stands within the home, that can cut back on some of the screaming, but you don't want to end up in a situation where you are forced to bring the bird with you EVERYWHERE in order to avoid screaming. The counting method will eventually reduce it, but it can take a few months before you see a difference...It's hard up-front.
 
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Remember- it is natural for them to flock call, so you need to give them a lot of attention in general and try to prevent screaming ahead of time, but the attention screaming (assuming they get plenty of time with you during the day/time out of their cage etc) will not work well long-term in a home...which is why you have to tough it out this way.

In a pinch---let's say your bird is on a 2-hour scream fit and you left your keys in that room (which you need), you can hide behind a wall (where the bird CANNOT see you) and toss something VERY small into the room---not to scare the bird, but to distract them from their current scream-fest. They will more than likely get quiet to look at the object and at that point, start your 5-count and if they make it to 5 or 10 (whatever you are using) you can come back in, make a huge deal about how awesome they are for getting quiet etc, and grab your keys (but try not to leave again right away lol! or you aren't rewarding them much). DO NOT DO THIS OFTEN-- this should be a last-resort thing--very infrequent...if you do it too much it loses its novelty and could actually seem like a reward to the bird if they figure out the pattern.

If you can place your bird on various stands within the home, that can cut back on some of the screaming, but you don't want to end up in a situation where you are forced to bring the bird with you EVERYWHERE in order to avoid screaming. The counting method will eventually reduce it, but it can take a few months before you see a difference...It's hard up-front.

Yea I’ve literally just been taking her everywhere I send a lot of time with her maybe close to over 10 hours a day we’re in the same room together and she’s on my shoulder I’ve literally just been taking her everywhere cause the minute I put her down she goes crazy
 
Remember- it is natural for them to flock call, so you need to give them a lot of attention in general and try to prevent screaming ahead of time, but the attention screaming (assuming they get plenty of time with you during the day/time out of their cage etc) will not work well long-term in a home...which is why you have to tough it out this way.

In a pinch---let's say your bird is on a 2-hour scream fit and you left your keys in that room (which you need), you can hide behind a wall (where the bird CANNOT see you) and toss something VERY small into the room---not to scare the bird, but to distract them from their current scream-fest. They will more than likely get quiet to look at the object and at that point, start your 5-count and if they make it to 5 or 10 (whatever you are using) you can come back in, make a huge deal about how awesome they are for getting quiet etc, and grab your keys (but try not to leave again right away lol! or you aren't rewarding them much). DO NOT DO THIS OFTEN-- this should be a last-resort thing--very infrequent...if you do it too much it loses its novelty and could actually seem like a reward to the bird if they figure out the pattern.

If you can place your bird on various stands within the home, that can cut back on some of the screaming, but you don't want to end up in a situation where you are forced to bring the bird with you EVERYWHERE in order to avoid screaming. The counting method will eventually reduce it, but it can take a few months before you see a difference...It's hard up-front.

Yea I’ve literally just been taking her everywhere I send a lot of time with her maybe close to over 10 hours a day we’re in the same room together and she’s on my shoulder I’ve literally just been taking her everywhere cause the minute I put her down she goes crazy

Yeah- I get it, but you are creating a monster, so now is the time to get inventive (for your sanity in the long-run and for hers--because it is also hard on them, as they do not understand, until it clicks). It's easy to get frustrated because the hours of screaming make you want to attack everyone in the house and hit your head against a wall until it stops LOL --BUT, the bird hasn't learned that it doesn't work yet and you are fighting an instinct, so while sticking with a behavioral approach, try not to blame the bird, as she is doing what she would be if she couldn't see her flock in the wild..That having been said, it can be decreased and trained to some extent.

The silicone ear-plugs I like are these and you can get them at Walmart-- I use them to sleep, but they are pretty good at blocking noise (while still allowing you to hear muffled sounds). They stay in better than the foam ones and they are much more effective. You could also consider gun-range headphones lol depending on the preferences of those within your home.

71qyV6l%2BdVL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
<--they are like silly putty or something...at Walmart near eye-drops etc.

I toughed the first few months of screaming out without earplugs, but I was also living alone at the time and I KNOW how stressful the screaming can be when you are living with a family (my bird forgets a lot of her "anti-screaming" (?) training when we go to my parents' house for visits).

Again-- you DO want to listen to the differences in your bird's vocalizations because a scared call is NOT the same as attention seeking, and you DO want to comfort your bird if they are really scared---for instance, mine hates wagons and will lose her mind if she sees one, so I do go reassure her (because I know she is actually frightened and not just after attention).

Bottom line- Catch your bird being good and PILE ON the attention for anything you want more of. Clearly she wants attention, so attention is a reward and none of us do anything at all unless we know we will get something out of it (working for a check, stopping at a light, eating when hungry, etc etc)

Also- unless you have 10 hours a day to spend with your bird forever, I would thin that down gradually....Try to force yourself to leave for short periods just so she doesn't get even more dependent...and remember- use key-words ("going outside" is another that I use). I know she knows them because when I say "going to work" she IMMEDIATELY jerks her head at me and acts all annoyed lol.
 
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OHHHH!!! And this is HUGE--- U2s and M2s (yours) MUST have a nightly sleep and wake-up schedule of 12 hours a night. You can sometimes get by with 10, but 12 is ideal...just like a kid, they need a rough bed-time and wake-up as well. This applies to most cockatoos, but it is SUPER important for these 2 varieties.

If your bird goes to bed at 5, they should wake up around 5 (maybe a bit before, maybe a bit after). Remember, just because a bird is covered and they are quiet, doesn't mean they are sleeping. When I didn't have a room for Noodles and I would have to stay up super late, she would be quiet, but I could tell she was awake and she was always SUPER needy the following day (like a kid who goes to a sleep-over and has a melt-down over insisting they aren't tired lol)

Sleep/light cycles are essential in regulating mood, hormones and immune health.
 
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OHHHH!!! And this is HUGE--- U2s and M2s (yours) MUST have a nightly sleep and wake-up schedule of 12 hours a night. You can sometimes get by with 10, but 12 is ideal...just like a kid, they need a rough bed-time and wake-up as well. This applies to most cockatoos, but it is SUPER important for these 2 varieties.

If your bird goes to bed at 5, they should wake up around 5 (maybe a bit before, maybe a bit after). Remember, just because a bird is covered and they are quiet, doesn't mean they are sleeping. When I didn't have a room for Noodles and I would have to stay up super late, she would be quiet, but I could tell she was awake and she was always SUPER needy the following day (like a kid who goes to a sleep-over and has a melt-down over insisting they aren't tired lol)

Sleep/light cycles are essential in regulating mood, hormones and immune health.

I want to really stress how important this one is with ANY parrot and not just cockatoos. Without enough sleep our conures are little hellions and make the day unbearable. Our GCC is super skittish and any unexpected sound or movement will send him into a complete panic flying around the house shrieking. The red bellied becomes a horrible grumpy biting little so and so. And he bites with the intent to draw blood. With sleep they are sooo much better.
 
Also- unless you have 10 hours a day to spend with your bird forever, I would thin that down gradually....Try to force yourself to leave for short periods just so she doesn't get even more dependent...and remember- use key-words ("going outside" is another that I use). I know she knows them because when I say "going to work" she IMMEDIATELY jerks her head at me and acts all annoyed lol.[/QUOTE]

Our Goffin responds excitedly to our calls of “going out” and yells “bye bye”after many years of being left in for chunks of the day and us going out to work, or now more likely golf. Pretty certain he remains fairly quiet when we are not there. But when we're home he wants to be out and rarely or never screams if on a shoulder or a climbing frame in my home ‘office’ or even if in his cage and we sit near him. Goffin’ screams’ do not get near those of a Moluccan I appreciate !
 

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