Any suggestions for Rosetta?

[Betrisher]

Things are bad.

Rosetta is a crazy-bird. Despite all our rules about sitting quietly, making slow movements, speaking in low voices and only rewarding good behaviours, she's nutzo! She has so much energy to get rid of, but no one can bear to be with her for longer than fifteen minutes.

She's begun flying directly into peoples' faces and has begun to use 'step up' as a good reason to grab hold of a hunk of your hand with her bill and then hang from it upside down, biting and clawing as hard as she can. I've included a picture of my arm to demonstrate her effect on me.

The Alexandrines were very beaky as babies (hence the name), but they were *nothing* like this! Rosetta spends her entire out-of-cage time racing around doing what look to me like ritual behaviours (sliding her beak along a surface, bending her head all the way round under her wing and - most disturbing of all - snaking her head to the left and right for minutes at a time). When I see a horse do that, I know that all is not well upstairs. Is it the same for birds, d'you think?

Rosetta is nervous too. Well, of course: she's only been here a few days. She starts at the slightest noise and will latch on with bill and claws when she gets a fright. I'm not stupid: I know not to react when this happens, but sometimes *I* startle too and can't help myself. I continue to reassure her constantly and speak in a low, slow voice. Whenever I can, I reward good things, like stepping (and staying) on my hand. Actually, that's one good thing that has happened. She actually stayed on my hand the whole time today, so that's progress, right?

I've learned that allowing her on the floor to chuck her toys around is not a good idea. She just escalates until she's panting with her mouth open and her hat and wings deployed. If she'd only stay still long enough to listen. We had half-an-hour worth of out-of-cage time today and I'm exhausted and bleeding and am covered in $#!+. I didn't think it was going to be like this.

So if anyone has any wisdom to offer, I've got both ears flapping. I've done everything I know to do and still this birdie is nutzo. Should I leave her in her cage for longer until she's a lot more familiar with the household noises (I sort of thought that would only build her pent-up energy)? Should I have longer or shorter 'training' sessions? Half-an-hour is all I can bear. She's pretty good for fifteen minutes or so, then she goes bananas. Should I put her back after fifteen minutes and do that several times a day rather than having a longer single period out-of-cage?

Should I allow her to play actively (tossing balls, flinging things, jumping up and down, flapping wings madly while hanging off my tender bleeding flesh)? Should I discourage over-active play until she settles a bit more?

Also, she came eating a mixed seed and dried fruit diet. I want to change her to pellets and fresh fruit and veg, but atm she's having none of it. Should I leave the diet until I've made some progress with the behaviour? This poor bird has had so many massive changes in her life in such a short time, I don't want to make things worse for her.

Feeling very down about all this atm. I hope something nice happens soon.

PS. Can anyone point me to the page that shows you how to type keyboard characters to get emoticons? We used to have a page like that years ago.

PPS. Also do we still have the page that has everyone's real names on it?

PPPS. What's good to put on the scratches and bites? They itch something fierce! I've been using either metho (methylated spirit) or peroxide to clean the wounds, but that doesn't help the itching.

 

[ChristaNL]

I use calendula-ointment (I tried aloe, but that makes me itchy as hell even on an unbroken skin...).
I just clean with water and maybe some soap if they are really deep.


(LOL you have my real name- minus the NL that is my country)

If you " go advanced" instead of "quick post" you can find all the emoticons you need (especially if you click on [more] when you are in the " go advanced" screen -> they have the codes behind them, so you can type instead of click them )

I would let her blow of steam on her own (no touching) and if she shows signs of coorperating start training with the hands off (targettraining/ follow the stick etc.).

You are so going to have you hands full with this exuberant, mouthy puppy of yours.
But it will not last forever!

Go full ADHD on her: train as many times a day as you can manage in extremely short bursts of 30 seconds to 2 minutes max and just throw the same toy for her to pounce (in stead of you) every single time to signal "end of training".
(train in and out of the cage)

The bleeding etc is really no fun..I have no solution for that ( "dont get bit" is wellknown, but not always practical, and it will probably make you goh "DOH!" when you hear it again )

 

[LaManuka]

Sorry I have zero suggestions for you in terms of training, it’s never been my strong point!

But for the bites and scratches I suggest a tub of pawpaw ointment - a big one!! It’s wonderful stuff

 

[Betrisher]

Thanks, LaManuka! I've actually got some paw-paw ointment - will try it tonight!

 

[Betrisher]

Christa! You said 'it will not last forever'. That's the best thing I've heard all day! Thank you. XX

 

[Laurasea]

You are going through a lot! And imagine how she must feel finally getting out of prison! Ritualistic behavior happens to all creatures who have been confined.. I think it help to keep in mind this isn't her trying to make your life difficult, this is a reflection of all that has been done to her, confinement, lack of companionship, lack of stimulation of intellect, lack of activities. Can you take her cage outside for sine tune in the fresh air and all the stimulation of looking around. I fo hope things improve for you both, your arms look sore I would get her started in the healthy stuff, her body and mind need those nutritional components.
Edit: I went to The Right Pet and read many owner reviews, every one I read spoke if high energy and activities needs, the need for a very large cage, and that this isn't a bird that is content to sit around, needs to be kept busy. If you can check out that site people rate abd give a brief description of having them in your life. It sounds like you have taken on a challenging companion! But also listed as a very loving one. I hope to learn from you as training, coping, and activities, as they will be good to add to my flock as well.

 

[GaleriaGila]

Geeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee, that sounds so much like the Rickeybird...

I guess I'll add a couple of my standard suggestions/rants... apologies to thoose wh've heard them before.

The pellet issue?
Harrison's Bird Foods

I feed Harrison's, supplemented by fresh healthy treats. My first, and later, my current avian vet recommended it. My bird loves the pellets now, but to get him converted, my avian vet suggested putting pellets out all day, and putting seeds (his old diet) out for two 15-minute periods a day. That would sustain him but leave him hungry enough to try new stuff. I presume the same technique could be used to get him to eat other healthy stuff, like fruits and vegetables! My guy was eating pellets in a couple of days, and now I can feed a good variety of other stuff, knowing he has the pellets as a basic. Pellets are out all day... fresh treats a few times a day. I also like Harrison's via mail because I never have to worry about out-of-date products.
Another couple of ideas...
My ol' man is an athlete and health nut. He actually EATS all the good stuff, so it's always around. I find that tossing various stuff into the food bowls at random is good... the variations and differences seem to stimulate curiosity and attention.
The other idea... if you can stand it (lol) EAT the stuff in front of the birds, yes. That encourages them. I have also found that if my ol' man eats stuff in front of the bird, the bird WANTS it for himself. Kinda a rivalry thing!

The 'crazy bird' issue?

Personally, I have reduced biting to almost zero over the years I've spent with the Rickeybird... and a lot of that has involved compromise. I don't do stuff that gets me bitten. Some will say I have let him get away with too much, and that's a fair criticism, but, well... I'm okay with it. I don't do stuff that makes him mad... I don't touch others when he's out; I rarely try to get him to step up onto my hand first. Hand-held perch first, then hand. In some ways, I'm disappointed/embarassed at having such a little monster for a pet, but he is what he is. I ALWAYS wear my hair down when he's on my shoulder, so all he can bite is hair. Really, I don't involve hands much... he doesn't like them. He seems to think the real ME is my head, perched on a weird moveable tree with questionable appendages.
Since he's fully flighted, the ONLY way I get him into the cage is to toss a chile pepper in and he flaps in after it. So food reward is a necessity for me. Time-out doesn't exist in the Rb's kingdom.
I have had some success with using the "earthquake" technique for biting. When he bites, give your hand a swift shake... it should make him let go. The idea... every time he bites, a mysterious earthquske shakes him up. Some people feel this is mean and/or engenders lack of trust. The same can work for clothes biting... give your shoulder a shake, or jump! For me, it has helped.
But please... don't put pressure on yourself.
Don't compromise until you know you've done your best. Then just accept and love whatever/whoever your bird turns out to be.
My Rickeybird is in some ways kind of a worse-case scenario, but we have it all worked out between the two of us. Parrots run the gamut (just like people) of temperament and mental stability/brain chemistry. Like the proverbial box of chocolates... ya never know what you're gonna get.
As you know, parrot-owners usually wind up determining their own personal comfort level with various behaviors.

Try not to be down-hearted... you have a wonderful wild-at-heart-being that shares your life. Okay, long-winded, repetitive rant over! I'm so glad you're here.

P.S.
I just use the little "Smilies" button below (with the "Preview Post" option) for all emojies.

 

[EllenD]

Yeah, that sounds just like the Corella we had at the Rescue that I already told you about...This is exactly why he was adopted then returned, adopted then returned, and then finally someone had the armor to keep him longer than a month or two. Again, I didn't have a ton of interaction with him because I was only a volunteer on weekends at that point and not actually working there as the Medical Liaison, but I clearly remember exactly what he was like, and it was all energy...He wasn't a mean bird at all mind you, he wanted nothing more than to be with whomever was there, he didn't dislike anyone at all at the Rescue, nor any people who came in to visit with the birds. He loved everyone and was friendly with everyone, but he just had so much energy and literally "needed" to fly around the room all of the time. However, we luckily have a huge room that is used for allowing the birds to spend time out of their cages and to fly around full-speed, it's great for the larger birds, and he would spend hours flying around and around and around, and playing with anything that could double as a toy. One big difference though is that he never "bit" anyone at all, nor did he use his beak on people, but that's probably because he was 2 years old if I remember correctly, and wasn't still "beaky", and had probably been bite-pressure-trained by his first owner.

I'd say that 70% of Rosetta's behavior that you're describing is simply due to the fact that she's only been in your home for a few days, and then also because she's such a young baby and she is still exhibiting baby parrot behavior. I don't need to tell you that having a young parrot for only a few days is not nearly long enough for them to settle-in, and certainly not long enough for them to learn any behavioral training at all, I know that you know that. I think she's just such a large, energetic bird that her normal baby parrot behaviors are very amplified.

So I'm going to go ahead and assume that most of what you are describing is going to vanish with both time in your home and with you, as well as with age. She'll naturally learn bite-pressure-training as she goes, and pretty much all of those quirky, baby-parrot behaviors will be ones she grows out of...Some of those odd behaviors you're describing may also be natural behaviors for Corellas when they are in new environments, such as the "snaking her head back and forth" and such. So I wish I had a better suggestion for you than to simply tell you "it's just going to take time", but that's pretty much what I've got for ya, lol...As Christa said, "This will pass"...

****One question though: I'm pretty certain that she was hand-raised by her breeder that you got her from, so I'm assuming that she was pulled from her parents when she was between 2-3 weeks old...That being said, did her breeder have any other adult parrots in her house that were pets that you know of (of any species)? I'm asking because when I was growing-up my mom bred and hand-raised Budgies, Cockatiels, different Conures, BeBe Parakeets, Princess of Wales Parakeets, and Rosy Bourkes, and obviously she would pull the babies away from the parents when they were 2 weeks old and they had no more contact with her breeder-birds in the aviary...However, we have a pet Congo African Grey that came to us as a baby when I was 9 years-old (she still has him, he's now 32), and something that we used to laugh about constantly, I mean it was a source of entertainment and amusement for us, was that the babies she was hand-raising would be around our Grey, and would start mimicking his actions, his behaviors, and his sounds! At the time the babies would start weaning and would start to fledge, my mom would allow them hours of out-of-cage time in our living room, where they had many play-stands that they would all play on, fly back and forth on, and this is where potential owners would come to interact with them...And our Grey's main cage was in the dining room/kitchen area, and the babies could see him and hear him all day long...And we started noticing right away after bringing him home that the babies would pick-up his odd-ball behaviors, his antics, etc. So some of what you're describing actually sounds like Rosetta might have picked-up some odd parrot behaviors/motions from one or more of her breeder's pet parrots...Just a thought.

I don't think that Rosetta has anything wrong "upstairs", lol. I'll be the first person to admit that I know absolutely nothing about horses, not a damn thing, lol. But I wouldn't worry yourself about her having any long-term psychological issues or any type of, shall we say, "challenges", based upon the typical behavior of a horse that's a few bananas short of a bunch. I'm going to go out on a limb and just say that parrots and horses have little to nothing in common with each other psychologically or behaviorally. So don't worry yourself to death thinking that you're going to have a "challenged" Cockatoo for decades, lol...

I think all-in-all that most-all of what you're describing about Rosetta is due mostly to the fact that you've only had her for a few days, combined with her being a very young baby parrot...Yes, Corella's are a species of parrot that have a ton of energy that they need to burn-off, but this too will subside as she gets older...Think of her right now like she's a new, oh, Australian Cattle Dog puppy you just brought home a few days ago (I have had had two Blue Heeler's from 8 weeks old forward, so I speak from horrible experiences, lol)...They are a natural herding breed of dog that is impossible to EVER wear-down, they can literally run for hours straight and not even start panting, and ALL PUPPIES are psychotic due to the amount of energy they have, so the combination is deadly. That's the best comparison of what you're dealing with right now...Time and patience...and I know that isn't the answer you're looking for, but it is what it is...You have raised several parrots from young babies, so you know what you're doing...

****Just a question for you, out of curiosity because it can and does make a difference but Do you know what subspecies of Corella she is? I believe there are at least 6 or 7 subspecies of Corella Cockatoos, and they are all very, very different from each other as far as their typical behaviors and temperaments go. So I was just wondering if her breeder gave you that information, I'm sure she did, she must know if she breeds them, as they are not a very commonly bred species of Cockatoo, well, not here in the US, maybe they are in Australia, I don't know. But I'm sure that her breeder knows what species of Corella she's breeding...Most of them look very similar to each other I believe, with subtle differences, but as I understand it, they have very different personalities and character traits.

 

[Siobhan]

I don't know corellas, and Rocky is the only 'too I know, but I can suggest witch hazel to take the sting out of your arm. Mine looks like that all the time. Keep a toy of some sort handy and when she starts getting crazy, try to distract her with it and get her to take it in her beak. It doesn't always work, but if she has something in her beak, she can't chomp and you can scurry her back into her cage. Short bursts of training are better than long ones. Birds don't have a long attention span. If she gets agitated at 15 minutes, spend 10 training. Stop, put her in her cage, and come back after a while and try 10 minutes again. Try just playing and not training, too. And yes, a 'too is EXHAUSTING.

 

[Scott]

Seems Rosetta is the poster-bird for cockatoo behaviors on steroids!

I'd suggest temporarily giving her a bit more cage time and taking her out at regular but short intervals to establish a semblance of routine. Some of her behaviors are no doubt due to yet another big change, and possibly diet. Some cockatoos are turbocharged with a high-fat foods. Gail's suggestion of introducing pellets may be helpful. My flock successfully transitioned to Harrison's in two weeks using their suggested protocol.

Does Rosetta like to chew? All of my toos love soft-wood toys and some will decimate a series of macaw-sized blocks in days!

Ritual behaviors are common to cockatoos. I've seen many of your descriptions in smaller scale, such as beak sliding and moving head below wings. Not sure about head "snaking" but they will abruptly rotate the head and even the body repeatedly left-right for a while. Also "twirling" in place!

Wow, your arm looks like marinated meat! Please be careful and ensure the surface is cleaned regularly. I spent 5 days in a hospital about 12 years ago due to a MRSA infection of unknown origin. You are unlikely to pick it up from Rosetta, rather from other environmental contact sources.

My take, Trish, is to expedite the transition to healthier diet. Another major change for certain, but the current regimen may be a proximate cause for much of her behavior.

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[noodles123]

Well...when she bites, did you ever try leaving her alone --walking out of the room? She clearly is motivated to be around you guys...
If she is biting, leave and ignore her (everyone). Then try again and do the same thing every time.

My arm frequently looks like that from my U2's claws....


Structure/routine will be helpful. Using the same language in various situations can also be helpful. What do you do when she flies at you (immediately before the flight and immediately after)?

I say this a lot, but I am a big believer in ABA (Applied Behavior Analysis). Some of this is likely do to age and the fact that this bird is new in your home. Some of this is just how cockatoos are. My U2 will put up her crest, flap with her wings out to the the sides while make a slight hissing sound when really excited----I know that many people will say this is aggression, but in the midst of these crazy moments, I can still pet her without getting bitten. You need to get to know your bird---cockatoos can be VERY emotive and intimidating. Some may be legitimate posturing etc, but she could also just be having fun. Yes, they can get too excited and then bite from apparent over stimulation, but only time will tell.

I would not let her go wherever she wants. You might try station training, because she is just flying all over and I am sure it is chaos because people generally react in an unfavorable way when a cockatoo flies at them...That doesn't mean the cockatoo isn't having a ball!

If she bites, I would calmly try not to react and take her back to her cage or a time-out spot (You may choose to say something like "no bite" but ONLY if you can say it like a deadpan-robot). Then, walk away and don't talk or look at her (everyone in the room). You may initially need to block off the rest of the house so that you can train her in a smaller/bird safe room. Everyone needs to react in the same way, and I am also only writing this because I am fairly sure that at least some of this is attention-seeking behavior. For a fear-biting bird, I would NOT use the same approach.

Have you charted her behavior? I would use an ABC chart (antecedent, behavior, consequence--consequence is just whatever happens immediately after --whether good or bad---(laughed, cried, yelled, gave a cookie, walked away, showed a toy, ran a bell, Bob walked in and removed the bird, etc etc). This is a component of ABA. I can post an email I sent to my aunt who was having trouble with their bird if you think you are interested.


The more details you can give about the ABC stuff, the more I can try to help you with that end of things..again, if you want. It doesn't work overnight, but with consistency it does work.

 

[chris-md]

Trish, two points. Won’t fix everything, but are two tools towards correcting

1) If shes doing the flying attack, regardless of sentiments on the matter, it’s time to clip. Safety is paramount. That will help settle some things down and allow training to make bigger gains. You know well they will grow back and flight can be reearned through good behavior.

2) step up should never be beak first. People talk about how they use the beak as a third leg. It’s actually unnecessary. SHE needs to communicate her intentions. Is she wanting to step up, or is she wanting to play grab grind and hang? Let HER tell you through your common language. If she wants to step up, she can lead with her actual foot.

 

[noodles123]

If you get her wings clipped, MAKE SURE you take her to someone who knows what he/she is doing and do both wings so that she can still glide down in a controlled fashion!!! She is clearly VERY used to flying and if she attempts to do so, you don't want her slamming into things or falling to the ground.

Since she is young, I am slightly less opposed to the idea than if she were an adult bird....that having been said, there is always controversy around clipping. Just know that she may react to not being able to fly initially and that can present its own set of frustrations/behaviors....I am not sure what the right answer is, but clipping vs not clipping will have pros and cons (whichever you choose). Her energy level is real...flighted or not...This is why cockatoos are SO EXHAUSTING (they do have a lot of energy and they need constant activities etc to keep them from becoming compulsive messes).


That having been said, I do think that it will get better if you do your research and practice consistent behavioral techniques--- FYI- when ignoring a behavior that has previously gotten a bird what it wants, you will often experience what they call an "extinction burst" where the bad behavior that you are ignoring actually gets as bad as it has ever been (it is a last resort attempt by the bird to do things the old way and it can be very intense). SOOO if you go the ABA route and all of the sudden things get worse, don't give in or you will be reinforcing the idea that if the bird makes its behavior "big" enough, that you will change course and give in. If the behavior keeps getting worse and intensity keeps increasing over time, then you are doing something to reinforce that behavior, but if there is a day or two where the bird takes the same behavior to the max (after an intervention has been put into place) then that is an extinction burst.

 

[sunshine.within]

I’m so sorry to see your arms looking like that!

I’m a new cockatoo owner so not an expert but will try and give you my opinion...

I think you should limit her time outside the cage for now since it sounds as if she becomes easily overstimulated. I would just let her observe and take in the routines and rhythms of her new home and family. She can be perfectly entertained and content in her cage with something to play with or chew on. I found that Bianca loves to 1. chomp down on wicker baskets and 2. Crawl inside boxes and chew them from the inner corners. So that makes two inexpensive things I can drop in her cage that will keep her entertained for a while.

I would also contact an expert parrot trainer and get started on training Rosetta. Stick training would be great so your arms can take a much needed break! I am contacting trainers myself and really look forward to learning how to fix the little problems I have with Bianca, like her violently attacking my feet when she gets on the floor.

Anyway, I agree that if Rosetta gets crazy after 15 minutes, then she only needs to interact for 10. Then back in her cage she goes to play by herself.

Also, I have recently come across a parrot-related YouTube channel that I actually like. Lots of tips and ideas. It’s called wingsNpaws. Just yesterday I watched one of the videos he has on how to teach one’s bird not to bite. Of course his tips might be premature for your situation but there are probably some that you could implement right away.

To discourage biting, I heard of someone who achieved good results by putting her bird on a time out. Whenever it bit, she’s put it back in its cage and cover it for 15 minutes. So 15 minutes in the dark was the consequence of biting.

I hope the situation improves soon!



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[noodles123]

I’m so sorry to see your arms looking like that!

I’m a new cockatoo owner so not an expert but will try and give you my opinion...

I think you should limit her time outside the cage for now since it sounds as if she becomes easily overstimulated. I would just let her observe and take in the routines and rhythms of her new home and family. She can be perfectly entertained and content in her cage with something to play with or chew on. I found that Bianca loves to 1. chomp down on wicker baskets and 2. Crawl inside boxes and chew them from the inner corners. So that makes two inexpensive things I can drop in her cage that will keep her entertained for a while.

I would also contact an expert parrot trainer and get started on training Rosetta. Stick training would be great so your arms can take a much needed break! I am contacting trainers myself and really look forward to learning how to fix the little problems I have with Bianca, like her violently attacking my feet when she gets on the floor.

Anyway, I agree that if Rosetta gets crazy after 15 minutes, then she only needs to interact for 10. Then back in her cage she goes to play by herself.

Also, I have recently come across a parrot-related YouTube channel that I actually like. Lots of tips and ideas. It’s called wingsNpaws. Just yesterday I watched one of the videos he has on how to teach one’s bird not to bite. Of course his tips might be premature for your situation but there are probably some that you could implement right away.

To discourage biting, I heard of someone who achieved good results by putting her bird on a time out. Whenever it bit, she’s put it back in its cage and cover it for 15 minutes. So 15 minutes in the dark was the consequence of biting.

I hope the situation improves soon!






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My biggest caution to the post from Sunshine.Within would be that covering a bird during the day is confusing and can mess up concepts of day/night etc.

If you cover your bird at night, you don't want the bird to start thinking of that as a consequence for biting when it is totally unrelated to biting. It is just a daily part of life...

That is why I suggest designating a time-out space or (if you must) putting your parrot in its uncovered cage and leaving it there..Again, only if the biting is 100% due to attention seeking motives.

15 minutes is also a long time for a bird that is just learning. When stopping my Too from screaming,I left the room as soon as she screamed (and shut the door). Then I waited.... I originally only waited for 15 seconds for her to get quiet before re-entering the room. I started the count and if she screamed, it started over (at 15 s) until she made it the whole 15 seconds without screaming. Upon re-entering, I gave her attention and whispered, "thanks for getting quiet" (paired with the quiet sign at my lips). As she made the connection, I increased the amount of time I expected her to be quiet following screaming (up to 15 minutes) but I worked up to that..I didn't stay gone that long the first time, because the point is to deliver an immediate reward for the desired behavior when in the acquisition phase. If the bird screams for attention and you don't like it, do the opposite of what it wants, but when it gets quiet come back in immediately so that it learns the connection between screaming=leaving and quiet=attention.

The same would be true of biting, as long as you are CERTAIN that the function/motivation is human attention.


Oh---and one other thing..I wouldn't want my U2 in any boxes, as that is very similar to the darkness of a tree-trunk (in which they nest)...and the last thing you want is a hormonal bird ---even though a baby is too young to be hormonal, dark spaces can stimnulate the wrong types of responses from cockatoos.

 

[sunshine.within]

Trish, two points. Won’t fix everything, but are two tools towards correcting

1) If shes doing the flying attack, regardless of sentiments on the matter, it’s time to clip. Safety is paramount. That will help settle some things down and allow training to make bigger gains. You know well they will grow back and flight can be reearned through good behavior.

2) step up should never be beak first. People talk about how they use the beak as a third letlg. It’s actually unnecessary. SHE needs to communicate her intentions. Is she wanting to step up, or is she wanting to play grab grind and hang? Let HER tell you through your common language. If she wants to step up, she can lead with her actual foot.

I agree with both points. Bianca never leads with her beak to step up. Even when she’s hanging head down in her cage, she will change position and use her beak to hang on while extending one foot to let me know that she (desperately) wants to step up.

And the clipping.... yes I agree that if she’s flying to attack then she needs to get that behavior trained out of her first.


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[sunshine.within]

I’m so sorry to see your arms looking like that!

I’m a new cockatoo owner so not an expert but will try and give you my opinion...

I think you should limit her time outside the cage for now since it sounds as if she becomes easily overstimulated. I would just let her observe and take in the routines and rhythms of her new home and family. She can be perfectly entertained and content in her cage with something to play with or chew on. I found that Bianca loves to 1. chomp down on wicker baskets and 2. Crawl inside boxes and chew them from the inner corners. So that makes two inexpensive things I can drop in her cage that will keep her entertained for a while.

I would also contact an expert parrot trainer and get started on training Rosetta. Stick training would be great so your arms can take a much needed break! I am contacting trainers myself and really look forward to learning how to fix the little problems I have with Bianca, like her violently attacking my feet when she gets on the floor.

Anyway, I agree that if Rosetta gets crazy after 15 minutes, then she only needs to interact for 10. Then back in her cage she goes to play by herself.

Also, I have recently come across a parrot-related YouTube channel that I actually like. Lots of tips and ideas. It’s called wingsNpaws. Just yesterday I watched one of the videos he has on how to teach one’s bird not to bite. Of course his tips might be premature for your situation but there are probably some that you could implement right away.

To discourage biting, I heard of someone who achieved good results by putting her bird on a time out. Whenever it bit, she’s put it back in its cage and cover it for 15 minutes. So 15 minutes in the dark was the consequence of biting.

I hope the situation improves soon!






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My biggest caution to the post from Sunshine.Within would be that covering a bird during the day is confusing and can mess up concepts of day/night etc. If you cover your bird at night, you don't want the bird to start thinking of that as a consequence for biting when it is totally unrelated to biting. That is why I suggest designating a time-out space or (if you must) putting your parrot in its uncovered cage and leaving it there. 15 minutes is also a long time for a bird that is just learning. When stopping my Too from screaming, I originally only waited for 15 seconds for her to get quiet before re-entering the room. As she made the connection, I increased the amount of time I expected her to be quiet before returning (up to 15 minutes) but I worked up to that.

I agree, a time out space sounds more appropriate. You don’t want to turn their safe place (the cage) into something they hate.


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[Betrisher]

> but that's probably because he was 2 years old if I remember correctly, and wasn't still "beaky", and had probably been bite-pressure-trained by his first owner.

Rosetta is six, according to the previous owner. She came from 'a shop' originally. The previous owner told me they had owned her 'for ages', but when I rang back to ask about her behaviour, it turned out they had only had her for six months. I know why.

> I'd say that 70% of Rosetta's behavior that you're describing is simply due to the fact that she's only been in your home for a few days, and then also because she's such a young baby and she is still exhibiting baby parrot behavior. I don't need to tell you that having a young parrot for only a few days is not nearly long enough for them to settle-in, and certainly not long enough for them to learn any behavioral training at all, I know that you know that. I think she's just such a large, energetic bird that her normal baby parrot behaviors are very amplified.

You're absolutely right, of course, but I wouldn't have thought six was 'a baby'. I've calmed down a bit now and reading your post has *really* helped me put things back in perspective. In fact, you've echoed back advice I've given myself to countless other new parrot owners. Funny how it feels different when it's your own parrot, isn't it? :smile004:

****One question though: I'm pretty certain that she was hand-raised by her breeder that you got her from

No, she didn't come from a breeder. Parrots are a dime a dozen here in Oz and we felt we wanted to get a needy bird who could use a better home (our previous galah was such a bird). Rosetta came from Gumtree (like Trading Post etc) and had clearly belonged to a family that didn't know her needs (hence the seed-only diet and lack of structured training - also a *tiny* cage only three foot by two foot by three foot). A lot of the impetus to buy her was to give her a better life than that.

> So don't worry yourself to death thinking that you're going to have a "challenged" Cockatoo for decades, lol...

THANK YOU! I really needed to hear that!

> Think of her right now like she's a new, oh, Australian Cattle Dog puppy you just brought home a few days ago (I have had had two Blue Heeler's from 8 weeks old forward, so I speak from horrible experiences, lol)

LOL! Yes, that's an analogy I can understand. Blue Heelers don't usually do well in the town (not, that is, unless they have an exceptional family that will help them burn up all that energy and intelligence). I was given one as a child and he ran so hard and so fast up and down the yard, he made a rut in our driveway about a foot deep! Eventually, it became apparent that he needed more than my five-year-old self could give him, so he went to live on my uncle's farm, where he had a lovely life accompanying my uncle wherever he went on horseback or guarding his ute (pickup truck) when he went into town.

> Time and patience...and I know that isn't the answer you're looking for, but it is what it is...You have raised several parrots from young babies, so you know what you're doing...

You are SO wise! And right, of course. I feel a lot better having read your advice (and the scratches have healed a lot overnight).

****Just a question for you, out of curiosity because it can and does make a difference but Do you know what subspecies of Corella she is?

AFAIK, she's just a Little Corella (Licmetis sanguinea). I don't know whether there are any sub-species or races (will find out, though) of Little Corella, but she's the species that is native to where I live (east coast of Australia).

> I believe there are at least 6 or 7 subspecies of Corella Cockatoos, and they are all very, very different from each other as far as their typical behaviors and temperaments go.

There are six species of Corella, three of which are endemic to Oz. One of those has two subspecies (two versions of the Western Corella that lives on the opposite side of the country). We get Little and Long-billed Corellas flying over our heads in large flocks every day. They're LOUD (as is Rosetta). The Little Corella is rather more extroverted and 'funny' than the Long-billed, but they're basically pretty similar in behaviour and requirements (they're often kept together in aviaries and certainly flock together in the wild). I don't know whether it's possible for them to breed and produce offspring. I'm aware of quite a few galah/little corella hybrids as well as galah/Major Mitchell hybrids. These crossings take place in the wild as well as in captivity and no one knows why!

Thanks SO much for taking the time to write! I feel a lot better today and plan to really study this birdie and find out what makes her tick. I think I was expecting 'some' kind of positive response early on and of course that's not fair to her. We'll muddle along, scratches and all, for now.

 

[TiredOldMan]

"My arm frequently looks like that from my U2's claws...."

Mine usually look like that. My doctors constantly ask about it. And yes I take the points off every week.

"Some may be legitimate posturing etc, but she could also just be having fun. Yes, they can get too excited and then bite from apparent over stimulation, but only time will tell."

The only time I get bit is when he is over stimulated!

"I agree with both points. Bianca never leads with her beak to step up. Even when she’s hanging head down in her cage, she will change position and use her beak to hang on while extending one foot to let me know that she (desperately) wants to step up."

Same here. Anakin does not lead with his beak when interacting with me. He will however lead with the can opener with people he doesn't trust.

 

[Betrisher]

> Seems Rosetta is the poster-bird for cockatoo behaviors on steroids!

Yep! But it's also a function of her newness and nervousness. I allowed myself to forget that for a while, but I'm back on track now, having read all these helpful posts.

> I'd suggest temporarily giving her a bit more cage time and taking her out at regular but short intervals to establish a semblance of routine. Some of her behaviors are no doubt due to yet another big change, and possibly diet. Some cockatoos are turbocharged with a high-fat foods. Gail's suggestion of introducing pellets may be helpful. My flock successfully transitioned to Harrison's in two weeks using their suggested protocol.

Yes, that worries me a lot. I saw what a seed-only diet did to my Dominic and I don't want that for Rosetta!

> Does Rosetta like to chew? All of my toos love soft-wood toys and some will decimate a series of macaw-sized blocks in days!

Oddly, not yet. I have wooden chewies handy, though, and my husband does a nice line in cutting round holes out of untreated pallet slats. They make great 'chew biscuits' and the remaining holey slat is also fun to chomp on.

> Ritual behaviors are common to cockatoos. I've seen many of your descriptions in smaller scale, such as beak sliding and moving head below wings. Not sure about head "snaking" but they will abruptly rotate the head and even the body repeatedly left-right for a while. Also "twirling" in place!

Oh good! I'm glad to hear that and feel reassured. Last time I had a cockatoo, I was a teenager and not old/wise enough to study the bird's behaviour at all.

> Wow, your arm looks like marinated meat! Please be careful and ensure the surface is cleaned regularly.

Lemme tell ya, it feels like marinated meat! I've been cleaning it carefully and soaking it in peroxide. I plan to make myself an arm protector out of denim and lycra to reduce the - ah - friction.

> I spent 5 days in a hospital about 12 years ago due to a MRSA infection of unknown origin. You are unlikely to pick it up from Rosetta, rather from other environmental contact sources.

Yeh! Don't take these things lightly! I trod on a cat a few years ago and that put me in hospital for a fortnight with cat-scratch fever. My leg swelled to twice its size and oozed yellow hazmat for weeks afterward. Do not step in a cat, ever!

> My take, Trish, is to expedite the transition to healthier diet. Another major change for certain, but the current regimen may be a proximate cause for much of her behavior.

Yes, that's in hand already, thanks. She doesn't like the pellets, but I'm making those available all the time and only giving her a tiny amount of seed in the evenings. As our dearly-departed vet used to say 'It's amazing what an animal will eat when it's feeling peckish'.

This is all great advice and thank you SO much for taking the time to give it! X