Advice on biting Quaker

Quakerkid

New member
Dec 19, 2020
4
0
I have adopted a 4year old Quaker parrot from a family who stopped getting him out due to there sons illness. He will come out the cage on his own land on your head/ shoulder or near you and will also sit next to you whilst sat on floor however if you put your hand near him and say step up he will try to bite you. Whilst on your shoulder he will snuggle into your face and give kisses , to get him off we either ring his bell in his cage and he will fly back or we walk to his cage and lower our shoulder near his door and he will step off, what's the best way to stop the biting ? And allow us to use our hand /arm to touch him. He is also more aggressive in and on his cage, we can clean it out fine it's just when near him he will try to bite even when we offer a treat he will take it but try to bite you after or during the treat so have to be careful were we keep our fingers. He has only ever bitten when we put hands near him. Any advice is truely grateful . Thanks
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20201219_224302.jpg
    IMG_20201219_224302.jpg
    83.9 KB · Views: 239
I have no Idea I just got one a few hours ago but I will be following this thread for sure.
 
Have you had parrots before this one?
 
Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your beautiful quaker.

Quaker protect their cage, you have to respect that. Train them to come out on their own to perch you attach just outside the cage. Have them come out before you do good water and cage clean, do nit take it personally. Mine are smooshy loves away from cage, and warriors in the cage.

How long have you had him? What do you feed? I will write more later.

Google target training to help with coming off shoulder. Bribe sweet talk and praise
 
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #5
No I have not had parrots before, have had little experience with cockatiels growing up but have always wanted a parrot.

He already comes out on his own we will leave door open and he tends to fly in and out as he pleases when we are there. I will get a perch to attach for outside the cage aswell.

We have only had him a few days and I understand it takes time and trust for him to let us touch him but the fact he will already land on us etc is very positive in my opinion. Is it? I just want to start right away with doing the right things to allow us to use our hands with him.

He is fed on seeds and fruit and veg . The previous owners have never tried to change his diet.

Thanks
 
Yes I think it is very very postive that he wants to be near you and with you and snuggle with you. Absolutely great signs.

It takes time for you to learn to read their body language, and for them to read yours. Parrots bute when you aren't respectful of their space, try to rush them, ect.. These guys are very intelligent, and Parrots form individual relationships, think making friends with a small child. They can be wooed with sweet talking and hand feeding little treats. It can take some time before tgey trust yiu enough to let you scratch their heads, and rub their beaks, and run a finger along the sides if their face. Petting a parrot is a learned art. Di nit touch the wings, until you are friends font poke or put your finger in the chest area

Parrots like routines, and using the same phrases and words. They can really learn and understand a lot.

O feed mine a seed mix with no or very few sunflower and no peanut in shells, as the peanut shells grow mild easily. Mine also get a variety of pellets. My current favorite and theirs is oven baked bites sold at pet smart. They get 4 or more different veggies and leafy greens a day. For example I fed Swiss shard, snap peas, bell pepper, broccoli, and zucchini today, with a few fresh cranberry since those are in season. They also git a little cooked oatmeal, and boiled egg.

I'm going to attach a couple if links for you to read.
https://lafeber.com/pet-birds/stress-reduction-for-parrot-companions/

https://lafeber.com/pet-birds/bird-behavior/

Many things can kill your bird in seconds, even on the other side of a house and behind a closed door!!× you must read up on this!! Nonstick cookware, space heaters, air fryers, anything with non stick emits fumes that are deadly!!!!!!! And that type of stuff can be found in so many things, its now on irons, and ironing boards, ect. This link will get started
https://globalcrisis.info/ifyouloveyourbirds.html
 
Last edited:
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #7
Thanks for all the advice please keep it all coming , also thanks some very interesting information. From what iv seen so far I think the previous owners may have also let him eat there food and stuff parrots shouldn't eat. As when my son was having breakfast he flew straight over and was trying to eat Coco pops out the bowl, so we put him back in the cage whilst he finished his food.

Sonny also stepped up today but was away from his cage and onto my arm not hand but still a good start.
 
Sonny, is really doing great. And all my parrots try to eat anything I have. Luckily there is a lot of food I can share.

I don't know if I said this before, we consider bites as our fault, and work from there. If you get bitten it's your fault, and yes they always have a reason. We hear all the time people say they get bit for no reason, and that's just not true. Your getting bitten because you are not paying attention to their body language, or other reason. Anyway that mindset will help. Birds communicate with pupil size, feather positions , feather level fluffy, tight to body, head positions, wing positions, tail wags, tail flare, crouching. Sylized stretching and wing shrugs are a way of say hello.

Treat him as an intelligent individual, more do than a pet.
talk to him and explain things, it really goes a long way to make things easier.

Give him his own " furniture " to hang out on. It helps them to have a few spaces near you, that are their place, with things to destroy instead of your things. There are metal stands that you can attach those spiral ropes or hoops. I use ceiling hooks and fishing line to hang perches down next to my chair, at the breakfast bar. By a window. Make use of the space above your cage too. As well as lots of perches on the top and sides of your cage on the outside. Parrots like to leap from perch to perch, climb. Swing, test their skills. I shared photos in another thread I will link .

Chop sticks make great target train sticks, and Parrots catch in quick. But very short training sessions, like 3 reps, then 20-25 min before you go again.

Offer baths in large serving dish or casserole dish, about 1 inch of water, they don't like deep water. Splash around with your hand and he should come running to jump in. Or a spritz bath, font spray right at them, instead spray up and let the water fall fine on them. I let mine choose when they want a bath. I putb out fresh warm water 2 times a day and see if they want to take a bath.

As you are making friends with Sonny, say hi to him a million times a day and just give a safflower seed, a tiny piece of cracker, some small tid bit. Birds understand using good gifts to make freinds, and it works.

http://www.parrotforums.com/conures/88174-he-has-wings-full-flight-feathers-so.html
 
Last edited:
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #9
Thanks again everyone some good ideas. IV done a little training with him and have found he loves sweetcorn, so much he will step off his cage door onto my arm with out biting me. (He won't go near hands yet) once he steps up I give him a great and praise him then put him back on his perch on outside of cage and repeat . Just a few questions

1. As soon as he is on your arm he climbs straight up to shoulder and where he doesn't like hands it's difficult getting him off , he will get off if you go to one of his perches and say step down. Just makes it awkward, how can I stop him climbing my arm to my shoulder eveeytime . I have tried raising my arm and lowering it but neither work.

2. Whilst on shoulder he likes to nibble your face not bite as it mostly soft but on occasions he gets a little over zealous and nibbles bit to hard. How do you stop him nibbling when he is up there all together. He has only just started doing this but I am hoping it's because he is comfortable with us and more a sign of effection he especially does it to my 8yr son.

Thanks
 
I had trouble with my Ta-dah ( GCC) with that. First they shouldn't be allowed on shoulder till they can be trusted.

Here is a method that worked for me. I have a " bad" flag, its a small handheld America flag ( hey I love the America flag!!!@ it was just handy st the time) when she wouldn't come down i raised the bad flag in my left hand at arms length, and told her bad, come down. You do not chase or touch them with flag , but the slight misgivings about that flag made her run down to right hand. Then I praised her lavishly and dropped the flag. It took very few repetition of this, and the problem was fixed. It git to where I would just point at the flag, and she would run to my hand. I haven't had to use it in years but i keep it.. something like that might work for you. I don't know if its the best method, but sure worked for me. It has to be something thst isn't an everyday object, and something you dont mind them having a negative association with. And don't forget the praise and treats for doing good. And everyone has to use the same phrase. You dont want to cause fear, just an huh, that doesn't look right, im going to move away from it

Parrots like to nibble, preen, remove moles And freckle from us . I say" be careful" , when they get rough. And you can shift your body, or stand up. That should be enough fir them to stop. Then praise. Everyone use the same phrase. They learn fast. But you font want thrm to make a game if it. Because they love to turn everything into a game! Once my quaker Pikachu accidentally stuck his beak in my nose, I laughed. Now he does this all the time, then laughs!
 
Last edited:
Buy everything you are sharing, you have a great parrot, who is very interested in being part of the family , and likes you all.

But sometimes, not always, after a honeymoon period. They will want to test you a little, and might act out a little. Don't let that throw you, or get upset. If it happens ride it out with humor, and calm firmness. It usually passes quickly and then they are firmly part of the family, and know the family rules and boundaries..I just mentioned it because some people can get upset, wonder what happened , and over react, abd banish the burd to the cage. This testing doesn't always happen, but if it does its just part of them learning how to fit in. Don't let it rock your boat. Parrots are excellent at reading us!! Its best always to keep humor in mind. I've caused my burds to pissed at me, and the quickest way to turn it around is humor, sometimes an apology. They absolutely understand an apology. But if tgey are stomping around with crown feathers raised and beak open ready to bite, im like really, its the end ,of the world now?; you ready to move out? They take their cue from me, and calm down, like well I guess its not that bad after all.
 
I've noted if I wear a pullover and pull the cuffs over my hands I can get my quaker to step up more easily and is much less afraid.
 
If I offer a finger to Nimbus to step on the first thing he will do is bite possibly even hiss at me. He may step on after that or more likely he will bite again or smack his beak against it (More likely). If I offer the back of my hand he will stop on no problem. My Kakariki will only step onto the back of my hand.

My personal theory is that the finger is confusing to them. A branch or dowel the same thickness as a finger is much sturdier and so steeping onto a finger doesn't feel as secure as it should so it's hard to trust. The back of the hand or forearm isn't going to move under the weight of a smallish parrot as much as a finger so it feels more stable. Just my view on it anyway.
 

Most Reactions

Latest posts

Back
Top