Adopting new Amazon tomorrow!!

[Caliope]

Hello everyone I'm adopting an 18 year old BFA tomorrow. We are planning on setting up his new cage in our living room. I've read some stuff on the internet about putting them in a quiet room for a few days. Is this recommended or should we be ok to set up in living room and keep things low key or put the cage in a spare room and then move it in a few days. Its quite a large cage so it would take some doing to move it.

I also read a weird thing about not talking on the drive home so they don't associate your voice with trauma of leaving the place they know. Does this make sense? It seemed weird to suggest not speak comfortingly to him.

Are there any other suggestions some of you anazon pros can offer to ease the transition? I really want him to be happy here and like us. He will be our first amazon but not our first bird We currently have a conure and I will be keeping them separate for a month, I believe that is recommended time for quarantine and after that very supervised visits.

 

[Laurasea]

Congratulations!!!
I follow the birds lead. If they want to interact with me and be comforted by me then I interact from miniut one. Usually my new ones want a hslf hour to a couple of hours to settle, then want me...i just see. I set them up were they are going to be from day one. I talk and explaining everything to them.
I make sure they are in their cage at least 2 hours before bed time the first day.
https://lafeber.com/pet-birds/stress-reduction-for-parrot-companions/

 

[saxguy64]

Wow! Exciting day tomorrow! First thing... Congratulations

Now, it's really a matter of the individual bird as far as the dos and don'ts. Have you met him in person yet? If so, how did he act with you? Interested, curious, shy, run away? Trust CAN be earned, but it's so much easier if the bird chooses you. They really are much better at choosing than us humans are. If you have visited with him, and have a good relationship starting, you'll see pretty quickly what he wants. Once you get a feel for his body language, you'll see he's telling you everything you need to know. Amazons are brutally honest. They don't bluff, and they communicate very obviously. The trick is paying attention to what they're telling you.

I'm no expert, so I'll offer my thoughts for what they're worth. They come from some years of experience, a lot of learning, and mistakes along the way. My first amazon was a BFA, and we had him for many years, but I was ignorant, and thought I knew enough, and took the word of the previous owners about proper care. I was wrong, and I failed my friend. I live with that every day. It's why I've chosen to always keep learning. There's ALWAYS more to know. I've learned a lot since then.

My YNA chose me when I wasn't at all planning to have a second bird. She decided I was her person, period. After visiting many times, I finally gave in and brought her home. Everything was easy with her, right from the start. She truly loves me, and nobody else. My wife and daughter are intimidated by her.

Okay, the ride home: I'm going to disagree with the idea you found. He might be stressed riding in the car. Some (not many I believe) actually get carsick. Some get really excited and talk/jibber jabber/sing, etc. Talking to him in a soothing voice is a good thing. He'll start learning the sound of YOUR voice, and hopefully start to associate it as a good thing. *Only good things come from the humans.* Something for him to learn, and you to show.

When you get him home: Lots of different theories on this, and this is where his personality comes into play, as does the general noise/activity level in your home. My YNA was in a refuge for over a year, so even with kids, grandkids, dogs, and life in general, my living room with all the action was still calmer than a room with 75 other birds. I'm not a fan of starting out with isolation. They're social animals, and that seems like it would be more stressful, not less. Again, watch his reaction to the environment. If he acts stressed, try something different. Yes, calm and low key is good, but that doesn't imply hiding him away from everyone. Speak calmly, move slowly, but keep socializing, not isolating. Quarantine, yes, absolutely. Ideally no sharing of air space with your other bird. This obviously may play in to placement when he arrives, but to me, best to start out in, or near to what will be "his spot." I definitely understand about having to move cages. Both my birds have big ones that don't fit through a 36 inch doorway, and have to be completely disassembled to do so.

Hope some of this is helpful, and good luck with everything tomorrow. Most important, don't stress! Parrots can see that. Just follow his lead, and don't force things. Looking forward to updates and PICTURES if you'd like to share!

 

[Laurasea]

My GCC Ta-dah gets car sick, vomits every time...poor thing

 

[Flboy]

This is the big day!

 

[Caliope]

Thanks for your replies this is very helpful. When we went to visit we had to view through a glass window with a screen on top he was able to hear my voice and seem me but unfortunately due to covid we were not allowed to handle him. He did seem happy to see me and tried fo step up through the glass . The people said he's been friendly to both males and female people and just wants do be with people. That's why I thought the living room would be best. I do have 2 adult dogs that already live with a bird but they can be jerks (bark randomly and a bit spoiled )so we are going to have them both drag leashes and be in full training mode. I have a treat pouch for birds and dogs all set.
I can also barricade the living room from them if need be but do not have a door on the room. His wings are clipped at the moment.

 

[wrench13]

THank you for adopting. When it comes to new world parrots there are all sorts of myths, fake or plain wrong information, and some downright terrible advice out there, up to and including cutting their toungs in half to improve their speaking ability. Believe and do none of it. Please read the Amazon body language and the I Love Amazons posts in our Amazon sub forum - THAT is gold as far as information and advice.

I would put the cage in the living room, or the most active room in the house - Amazons love to be in the middle of the daily family life.

 

[Caliope]

Thank you! I did read both stickies at the top and will read them over again with Yuk Yuk, the name he comes with. One last question as we will be leaving in a couple hours to pick him up. We pick up the cage at the same time as the bird. Would it be ok for him to hang out in a travel cage or stand at my house while we set his up or would this be too much? The place where he is coming from thought it would be ok, but as I don't really know I thought I'd ask you guys.
Thanks again for all your help I'm sure I'll be here a lot over the next several years/decades ��

 

[saxguy64]

Thank you! I did read both stickies at the top and will read them over again with Yuk Yuk, the name he comes with. One last question as we will be leaving in a couple hours to pick him up. We pick up the cage at the same time as the bird. Would it be ok for him to hang out in a travel cage or stand at my house while we set his up or would this be too much? The place where he is coming from thought it would be ok, but as I don't really know I thought I'd ask you guys.
Thanks again for all your help I'm sure I'll be here a lot over the next several years/decades ��

I think it's a great idea. Show him the pieces, and allow him to inspect if he's curious. Let him watch the assembly process. Feeling like part of the process seems to make the transition much easier. I did that with my girl Baxter (YNA) and as soon as it was ready, she jumped off my shoulder to get to it, then climbed right in by herself and never looked at her old cage again. I was shocked!

Do wash the new cage down before he has contact with it. Never know what's on it from the manufacturing process and such. Better safe than sorry, you know?

Sounds like Yuk Yuk showed interest in you, as best he could with the covid restrictions, and that's really positive. You should have a pretty smooth transition, I think. Amazons are pretty adaptable. Again, just move at his pace, and only associate humans with good things. Bribery is your friend! Also if and when you need it, folks here on the forum are happy to help with anything we can. I'm so excited for you! Pictures... (Hint, hint)

BTW, what part of the world is home? I'm in lovely (cold at the moment) Maine, USA.

 

[Caliope]

Thank you that sounds nice to share the cage building with him and show as we go along. We are in Ontario, Canada. Quite brisk but sunny today I've got a blanket to cover the cage with but its cozy in the car

 

[SailBoat]

Welcome to the Wonderful World of Amazons, a place that Amazons Rule!

At 18, your Amazon's Body Language is fully in place and your Amazon EXPECTS you to understand it! Re-read 'regularly' Understanding Amazon Body Language!!! It is your KEY to successfully living a long and happy life with an Amazon! Each Amazon is different and may have added a few of its own, but the basics are common across the Board.

You have read some very poor information regarding Amazons. I strongly recommend that those sources be avoided as those approaches will only assure pain and suffering! IMHO, Parrot Forum's Amazon Forum is one of the Best Sources for solid, reliable Amazon information on the internet.

Again, Welcome to the Wonderful World of Amazons!!!

 

[Laurasea]

Good luck today!!@@
Welcome Home Amazon Freind, may yiu be happy and healthy and live a long life full of fun, and snuggles.

 

[AmyMyBlueFront]

Congrats and good luck with your new buddy!

I was semi clueless when Amy came home with me. He DID pick me though..like the breeder suggested. He was the only one who followed me around the flight cage as I looked at all of the other Amazon buddies he had in there,stopped when I did and moved his beak as I talked to him. When the breeder took him out of the flight cage Amy stepped right onto my hand,within a few minutes he was on my knee with his head down,eyes closed,beak open as I skritched away. He came home in boom box box and was pretty quiet ( he was only four months old). I didn't keep him in a spare room..he had his house in the living room on the opposite side of where Smokey was and he settled right in,wasn't afraid,stepped up,already eating pellets and fruits and veggies.

BB (cockatiel) was 4,5 months old when I got him from the breeder. He also chose me and when I got him home he didn't want to know anything about his new house,he was more interested in being with me so I let him hang out as I talked to him and skritched his head. He was wolf whistling in a week! Now after almost five years he's a p.i.t.a! Totally bonded to me..I can't go out of his sight without him yelling for me. I can pick him up,hug and kiss him,put him in my robe pocket as he pokes his head out to see whats going on. It's all good


Jim

 

[Scott]

Good luck today, looking forward to welcoming yet another amazon to the ParrotForums family! Your research and preparation will prove most helpful during the "honeymoon" period.

 

[noodles123]

Welcome and so glad you adopted!!!

Here is my copy-and paste for potential/new owners:

One really important thing when keeping a pet bird in the house is that you cannot use scented products or chemicals/fumes in your home (even things that smell nice to us(---things like smoke, perfumes, air freshener, standard cleaners, vaping, burning food, incense, cigarettes, glue, paint, window sealing kits, polishes, aerosol sprays etc can harm your bird's sensitive respiratory system (which is not the same as mammals'). Using products that heat or are heated which contain Teflon/PTFE/PFCs = very very dangerous. These products off-gas and can kill a bird in under 5 minutes. Teflon/PTFE/PFOA/PFCs are most commonly found in the kitchen (pots, pans, cookie sheets, drip trays, air fryers, popcorn poppers, baking mats, crock pots, toasters, toaster ovens, popcorn poppers, waffle irons, electric skillets etc. They can also be found in space-heaters, curling irons, blow-dryers, straighteners, heat lamps, heat guns, irons, ironing board covers etc. These fumes have killed birds through closed doors and on separate floors of a home, so you should replace your cookware with stainless steel, cast iron or ceramic. You may be thinking-- well, I have used them before and my bird is fine, but they kill very inconsistently and it depends on what you are cooking, the age of the pot/pan, the specific bird etc. There was a member who lost many of her birds from a pan she had literally used for years...then one day, her husband cooked an egg (without burning or overheating) and many of them died, while the rest showed signs of respiratory distress.

You will need an avian-safe cleaner to use within your home (both on the bird cage, but also, around the house). Again, chemical cleaners cannot be used in the home unless avian safe. F10 SC (the yellow/clear concentrate) is a great, avian-safe disinfectant. Other (less effective) options include products such as "poop-off", white vinegar + water, grapefruit seed extract + water, baking soda etc. Peroxide is also fairly safe for disinfecting places like your bathroom, but you do not want your bird to come into contact with it.

Some foods are toxic to them--avocado, coffee (even decaf), caffeine, rhubarb, alcohol, onions/garlic/leeks/chives, mushrooms etc. Salt is also very bad for them, as is most human food. They love it, but it's not healthy.

They should not just eat seed--you will want to feed lots of washed fresh vegetables. Fruit is fine in moderation, but too much can lead to obesity and behavioral issues due to sugar. I feed my bird a mix of high-quality seed (no sunflowers, no peanuts) and pellets (in addition to fruit/veg). ECCLECTUS PARROTS SHOULD NOT EAT PELLETS. Fruit pits are toxic, as are apple seeds. Corn cob and certain nut shells (if swallowed in big pieces) can cause blockages, so you should be very cautious if you give your bird nuts in the shell. Peanuts can harbor aspergillosis, and should be avoided altogether (even they you often see them marketed towards parrots).

It is important to make sure that your bird's toys and cage are made of safe metals. Stainless steel is safest. They can get metal poisoning from playing with or mouthing objects made of unsafe metals.

They need a set amount of sleep each night (at least 10 hours) and the largest cage you can manage with lots of different perches. You want to avoid the totally smooth/round ones as they can lead to a condition called bumblefoot. Never place a cage near drafts and never allow cool air to blow on a bird. They are sensitive to drafts and any temperature shift greater than 10 degrees can cause a shock to their system.

They need lots of safe toys and safe wood to chew. Not all wood is safe, so don't just assume you can give them any kind you want. Pressure blasted or chemically treated wood (e.g., lumber and many other types of wood from the hardware contains toxic chemicals or are cut from trees that are naturally toxic.

They hide illness and so you have to watch them to make sure they are eating normally and pooping normally etc. You should try to find an avian vet (certified avian) if at all possible and take your bird AT LEAST 1 x yearly for an exam. An avian vet is NOT the same as an exotics vet who sees birds--- so if a certified avian vet is available within a few hours of where you live, you will want to set up care.

All parrots can easily confuse the relationship with their human for a sexual one. You don't want this to happen, even though it seems sweet at first. Stick to petting on the head and neck only (the rest is sexual) and do not allow your bird to play in shadowy places, like boxes or under furniture, as these spaces are similar nesting sites and are hormonal triggers. NO SNUGGLE HUTS/TENTS!

Food and water should be replaced daily--- wash the containers daily. Never leave wet food out for more than a few hours (as it can lead to bacterial growth). Never try to medicate a bird via drinking water and never add vitamins to water. Vitamins can be over-dosed easily and harm a bird. Plus, when you add things to water, it makes it impossible to know how much they have gotten and it also encourages bacterial growth. Sometimes it can prevent them from drinking adequately if they don't like the flavor of whatever it is you added. Citrus and fruits high in vitamin C should be given in extreme moderation because they can cause "Iron Storage Disease" (for a cockatoo, 1 small tangerine slice 1-2 times a week was okay, according to my vet).

These birds have the intelligence of 3-4-year-old human, but they are wild animals (not domesticated like dogs). This means that they see the world (and humans) in a very unique way and so you must learn about their behavior in order to prevent problems (screaming, plucking etc). They need lots of time out of their cage daily and a lot of interaction (at least a few hours). At the same time, you don't want to spend TOO much time with a bird of they will become overly dependent and not know what to do with themselves when you go to work etc.

Finally, baby birds are ALWAYS sweet compared to adult birds. When your bird hits puberty, expect that it will exhibit some annoying and problematic behaviors (much like a teen). A through knowledge of behavior and setting expectations at an early age will make your life easier when that time comes, but do prepare yourself and expect that things will not always be so smooth-sailing. Think about a baby human compared to a teen...

I am sure there is more...but that is a basic overview of caring for birds.

Here is an excerpt from another post (which you may want to reference when shopping/ calling about Teflon:
The most insidious is the Teflon/ptfe/pfoa/pfcs because you have to call the company to verify that anything that heats or is intended to be heated does not contain these substances ("PTFE free" doesn't mean PFC free and so there are a lot of marketing gimmicks out there to make people buy what seems like healthier cook-ware, even though it still contains a version of the same chemicals). Also-- these chemicals can be woven into fabric, mixed into metal during the moulding process, applied as a powder, applied as a clear-coat, or mixed with a colored coating. You cannot assume that you will be able to identify them visually, so, when you call, you must provide all abbreviations and full names + spellings of each chemical compound (and then they usually give you "the run around" for a week or so IF they ever answer your questions at all---because sometimes it's a "trade secret"). It's all very sketchy and DuPont (manufacturer of Teflon) claims that off-gassing only occurs at really high temperatures, but there have been numerous documented/scientific and anecdotal reports of birds passing away at temperatures in the 300 F range (and again, it kills through closed doors and on different floors).
FYI- Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)
A perfluorinated compound (PFC)
Teflon (a common brand-name of non-stick cookware containing these chemicals)

10- 12 hours nightly for sleep, so if you get up at 6 and make a bunch of noise, you will wake the bird up (even if they are still covered). If they wake up at 6, bed should be between 6-8. You want to keep it around the same time if possible (because that's how it is in nature).


OH-- something I didn't mention in my last post-- stainless steel is really one of the only safe metals for them. Research the heck out of your cage and make sure that if it uses a powder-coating it is truly non-toxic. Birds can get metal poisoning from playing with sketchy toys (many made in China do not adhere to best practices) and just mouthing things like money, bolts, locks etc can cause toxic impacts...A man I know allowed his bird to play with un-used toothbrushes and (unbeknownst to him) there were small copper bits that held the bristles in place-- this nearly killed his bird even though the bird didn't actually swallow the pieces. Copper, zinc, nickel, some iron, lead etc are all toxic. Chicken wire and most screens= bad news.

 

[Littleredbeak]

Congratulations! DoL:41:

 

[Caliope]

So yesterday went ok. Unfortunately I did sustain some pretty hard bites but I believe it was displaced aggression. He wanted to step up but unfortunately my labrador chose that moment to bark so he did nail me and then nail me again as I was withdrawing. Other than that he's been pretty gentle to take treats and seems to be happily settling in. He's eating his pellets like crazy and exploring his perches and toys.
I'm slightly apprehensive to ask for a step up today but I will watch him and keep dogs well away if we manage to let him out of cage.
Would it be wise to let him out today? Or work more on trust bonding and target training more.
He is just so gentle in every other way I think I'm just down in confidence. I was worried about getting bitten so he took care of that I'm definitely aware of what that feels now as he most certainly drew blood. I handled it by not saying or doing anything during the bite took a big yoga breath and waited for release slowly backed up and shut the cage door then went to the kitchen to wash my war wounds. I left him for a few minutes and then returned bandaged up and acted like nothing happened. Hope this is acceptable

Thanks for all the encouragement and in advance for any advice you can offer for Day 2

 

[Laurasea]

put dogs outside or locked in a room when yiu work with him.
No reason to wait follow his lead. But don't rush him .

 

[saxguy64]

Aside from the bite, sounds like a good start. Your response to the bite was textbook perfect, (and hard to do- it hurts!) and if not for the dog bark, probably would not have happened. Start fresh, as though it never happened, and move at his pace from there.

Maintain your confidence. Something to consider, parrots see different parts of the spectrum that we don't, as part of the way they communicate, and read the situation at hand. To them, a subtle shift of feathers creates a totally different projection of themselves that we generally don't even notice. I find it fascinating, and try to have it in mind when interacting with them. In simple terms, they can literally see if you're afraid, nervous, calm, etc. I believe it's why they're so much better at choosing us than we are at choosing them. Rather than seeing what we are, they see WHO we are on a whole different level.

 

[SailBoat]

It is important to understand that dog bites are dangerous /deadly for Birds! Yes, you took the bite from the Parrot, but it is just as possible that the Amazon was warning you of the danger of the dog then it was displaced aggression -- "move, those things are dangerous..."

When dogs (and other animals) are in the same area as you and your Amazon, you are adding a serious unknown, i.e. you have no way to know what the dog will do and that can make things dangerous i.e. you can /will get bitten...

Blue-Fronted Amazons and dogs: As a species, the BFA family are among the larger Amazons and have a powerful Bill that can do serious damage to Humans (you have already experience a light bite) and other animals as well. Yes, dogs can kill Parrots, but if your Amazon gets a clear bite at your dog, you will be visiting your Dog's Vet.

- At this point, it is likely that many members will join in to say that their Parrot has a wonderful relationship with their dog(s). Yup, that can happen, but that fully depends on a 'developed relationship', which your family does not yet have!

Your first Bite! An Adult BFA can delivery a very serious bite that will send you to Hospital, even if it is a arm or finger bite. Consider what you received as warning bite, hard enough to get your attention but not hard enough to require a trip to Hospital.

Did you handle it correctly? Far better than most Humans can! Only recommendation is to include the verbal statement: NO! or No Bite! You're leaving can be to some degree problematic as you never want to create the belief that a bite can get you to leave. I commonly either turn around or slightly back away. With a slight back away as preferred. Your time line is perfect...