New To breeding ! Purchased my first breeding pair

Hey guys nice to meet use ive been doing my research for a week now getting tips to keep my pair healthy and stay breeding.. here is my set up i also have questions to ask...
(Wild pair ) +7 years of age.

Can I have more than 1 pair in my avairy without a visual barrier? Just 2 nest box one on each side?

Also are toys and swings good to have ? Or does it affect the pair on producing and more on playing..

Do i need natural trees and leaves in the avairy for the male ?

Is it better to have the nest box inside the cage or outside?? Which is better for the pair.

Also I have noticed my male is plucked underneath his legs any possible reasons ? Does it re grow


Also is good to have a large bowl hanging for a shower?? Please get back to me thankyou

Welcome! Please stick around, as this is a great forum. I am not to shoot you down or anything, but I have a few concerns. I don't want you to run off just because I say what I am about to say, so please don't get offended! It's all being said with good intention.

1. That cage looks unsafe (even though it is nice in terms of sizing etc). The wire likely contains toxic levels of zinc and the gauging is extremely thin. Chicken wire is not safe for parrots. The wood will be easily chewed. Metal poisoning is a huge issue with parrots. Also, the dowel perches are not really a good idea because they can lead to bumblefoot over time. You want perches with variations in width and texture-- dragonwood, manzanita etc are good options. Don't just cut wood from a tree outside and use that-- it's unsafe unless you know the history of the chemicals used on the tree (if it's near a road, it also is unsafe due to run-off) and then you have to think about the actually type of wood (as some are poisonous). On top of that, the branches should be baked or safely disinfected (using something that will not harm your birds, but will get the job done) in order to kill insects, fungi and parasites, as well as any viral remains from other birds that could be lingering. Remember, they chew things....like perches etc.

2. Have you ever hand-fed babies?

3. Have you owned other parrots in the past?

4. Where are you located (in the world)?

5. Where did you get a wild pair?


Breeding is really really really complicated...I will post some stuff below.

Please read my response to this poster on the following thread, as I would say many of the same things to you:
http://www.parrotforums.com/macaws/86822-want-learn-how-breed-macaws.html


Here are some other important links for you to read as well:
http://www.parrotforums.com/breeding-raising-parrots/54987-before-i-start-breed.html
http://www.parrotforums.com/breeding-raising-parrots/74363-so-you-bought-unweaned-baby.html
https://hari.ca/hari/research-facil...cine-pediatrics-housing-feeding-baby-parrots/
https://theparrotuniversity.com/arthandfeeding2

In case you haven't had parrots:

Here is my copy-and paste for potential/new owners:

One really important thing when keeping a pet bird in the house is that you cannot use scented products or chemicals/fumes in your home (even things that smell nice to us(---things like smoke, perfumes, air freshener, standard cleaners, vaping, burning food, incense, cigarettes, glue, paint, window sealing kits, polishes, aerosol sprays etc can harm your bird's sensitive respiratory system (which is not the same as mammals'). Using products that heat or are heated which contain Teflon/PTFE/PFCs = very very dangerous. These products off-gas and can kill a bird in under 5 minutes. Teflon/PTFE/PFOA/PFCs are most commonly found in the kitchen (pots, pans, cookie sheets, drip trays, air fryers, popcorn poppers, baking mats, crock pots, toasters, toaster ovens, popcorn poppers, waffle irons, electric skillets etc. They can also be found in space-heaters, curling irons, blow-dryers, straighteners, heat lamps, heat guns, irons, ironing board covers etc. These fumes have killed birds through closed doors and on separate floors of a home, so you should replace your cookware with stainless steel, cast iron or ceramic. You may be thinking-- well, I have used them before and my bird is fine, but they kill very inconsistently and it depends on what you are cooking, the age of the pot/pan, the specific bird etc. There was a member who lost many of her birds from a pan she had literally used for years...then one day, her husband cooked an egg (without burning or overheating) and many of them died, while the rest showed signs of respiratory distress.

You will need an avian-safe cleaner to use within your home (both on the bird cage, but also, around the house). Again, chemical cleaners cannot be used in the home unless avian safe. F10 SC (the yellow/clear concentrate) is a great, avian-safe disinfectant. Other (less effective) options include products such as "poop-off", white vinegar + water, grapefruit seed extract + water, baking soda etc. Peroxide is also fairly safe for disinfecting places like your bathroom, but you do not want your bird to come into contact with it.

Some foods are toxic to them--avocado, coffee (even decaf), caffeine, rhubarb, alcohol, onions/garlic/leeks/chives, mushrooms etc. Salt is also very bad for them, as is most human food. They love it, but it's not healthy.

They should not just eat seed--you will want to feed lots of washed fresh vegetables. Fruit is fine in moderation, but too much can lead to obesity and behavioral issues due to sugar. I feed my bird a mix of high-quality seed (no sunflowers, no peanuts) and pellets (in addition to fruit/veg). ECCLECTUS PARROTS SHOULD NOT EAT PELLETS. Fruit pits are toxic, as are apple seeds. Corn cob and certain nut shells (if swallowed in big pieces) can cause blockages, so you should be very cautious if you give your bird nuts in the shell. Peanuts can harbor aspergillosis, and should be avoided altogether (even they you often see them marketed towards parrots).

It is important to make sure that your bird's toys and cage are made of safe metals. Stainless steel is safest. They can get metal poisoning from playing with or mouthing objects made of unsafe metals.

They need a set amount of sleep each night (at least 10 hours) and the largest cage you can manage with lots of different perches. You want to avoid the totally smooth/round ones as they can lead to a condition called bumblefoot. Never place a cage near drafts and never allow cool air to blow on a bird. They are sensitive to drafts and any temperature shift greater than 10 degrees can cause a shock to their system.

They need lots of safe toys and safe wood to chew. Not all wood is safe, so don't just assume you can give them any kind you want. Pressure blasted or chemically treated wood (e.g., lumber and many other types of wood from the hardware contains toxic chemicals or are cut from trees that are naturally toxic.

They hide illness and so you have to watch them to make sure they are eating normally and pooping normally etc. You should try to find an avian vet (certified avian) if at all possible and take your bird AT LEAST 1 x yearly for an exam. An avian vet is NOT the same as an exotics vet who sees birds--- so if a certified avian vet is available within a few hours of where you live, you will want to set up care.

All parrots can easily confuse the relationship with their human for a sexual one. You don't want this to happen, even though it seems sweet at first. Stick to petting on the head and neck only (the rest is sexual) and do not allow your bird to play in shadowy places, like boxes or under furniture, as these spaces are similar nesting sites and are hormonal triggers. NO SNUGGLE HUTS/TENTS!

Food and water should be replaced daily--- wash the containers daily. Never leave wet food out for more than a few hours (as it can lead to bacterial growth). Never try to medicate a bird via drinking water and never add vitamins to water. Vitamins can be over-dosed easily and harm a bird. Plus, when you add things to water, it makes it impossible to know how much they have gotten and it also encourages bacterial growth. Sometimes it can prevent them from drinking adequately if they don't like the flavor of whatever it is you added. Citrus and fruits high in vitamin C should be given in extreme moderation because they can cause "Iron Storage Disease" (for a cockatoo, 1 small tangerine slice 1-2 times a week was okay, according to my vet).

These birds have the intelligence of a 4-year-old human, but they are wild animals (not domesticated like dogs). This means that they see the world (and humans) in a very unique way and so you must learn about their behavior in order to prevent problems (screaming, plucking etc). They need lots of time out of their cage daily and a lot of interaction (at least a few hours). At the same time, you don't want to spend TOO much time with a bird of they will become overly dependent and not know what to do with themselves when you go to work etc.

Finally, baby birds are ALWAYS sweet compared to adult birds. When your bird hits puberty, expect that it will exhibit some annoying and problematic behaviors (much like a teen). A through knowledge of behavior and setting expectations at an early age will make your life easier when that time comes, but do prepare yourself and expect that things will not always be so smooth-sailing. Think about a baby human compared to a teen...

I am sure there is more...but that is a basic overview of caring for birds.

Here is an excerpt from another post (which you may want to reference when shopping/ calling about Teflon:
The most insidious is the Teflon/ptfe/pfoa/pfcs because you have to call the company to verify that anything that heats or is intended to be heated does not contain these substances ("PTFE free" doesn't mean PFC free and so there are a lot of marketing gimmicks out there to make people buy what seems like healthier cook-ware, even though it still contains a version of the same chemicals). Also-- these chemicals can be woven into fabric, mixed into metal during the moulding process, applied as a powder, applied as a clear-coat, or mixed with a colored coating. You cannot assume that you will be able to identify them visually, so, when you call, you must provide all abbreviations and full names + spellings of each chemical compound (and then they usually give you "the run around" for a week or so IF they ever answer your questions at all---because sometimes it's a "trade secret"). It's all very sketchy and DuPont (manufacturer of Teflon) claims that off-gassing only occurs at really high temperatures, but there have been numerous documented/scientific and anecdotal reports of birds passing away at temperatures in the 300 F range (and again, it kills through closed doors and on different floors).
FYI- Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)
A perfluorinated compound (PFC)
Teflon (a common brand-name of non-stick cookware containing these chemicals)

10- 12 hours nightly for sleep, so if you get up at 6 and make a bunch of noise, you will wake the bird up (even if they are still covered). If they wake up at 6, bed should be between 6-8. You want to keep it around the same time if possible (because that's how it is in nature).


OH-- something I didn't mention in my last post-- stainless steel is really one of the only safe metals for them. Research the heck out of your cage and make sure that if it uses a powder-coating it is truly non-toxic. Birds can get metal poisoning from playing with sketchy toys (many made in China do not adhere to best practices) and just mouthing things like money, bolts, locks etc can cause toxic impacts...A man I know allowed his bird to play with un-used toothbrushes and (unbeknownst to him) there were small copper bits that held the bristles in place-- this nearly killed his bird even though the bird didn't actually swallow the pieces. Copper, zinc, nickel, some iron, lead etc are all toxic.

ALSO- AND NEVER EVER BUY A BABY THAT IS UNWEANED!! IT WILL NOT HELP YOU BOND BETTER. THIS IS A MYTH!!!! SERIOUSLY!

Well, as stated so very well above, the construction of your outside enclosure has serious issues and with the door system, you will likely loose your Parrots to the great outdoors sooner rather than later. IMHO, you need to get a very large metal cage for indoors, at this point, and rethink that outdoor enclosure you have built.

Your are aware that the Parrots you have elected to start with have highly specialized diet requirements, right? And, you have an Avian Medical Professional near you to support their health requirements?

There is this phrase: Never put the Cart before the Horse. In this case, having fully researching this project prior to getting a 'Proven' Pair of Parrots. At maybe 7 or a bit older, it is very possible that you do not have a 'proven' pair, i.e. they have provided at least three consecutive sets of live chicks...

FYI: 'breeding' is a hobby, which means that you likely will never recoup your capital expensive, nor the extensive hours in which you will need to invest in the care of the pair and their chicks as it is very possible that may reject feeding the chicks and you will need to do that.

noodles123 said:

Welcome! Please stick around, as this is a great forum. I am not to shoot you down or anything, but I have a few concerns. I don't want you to run off just because I say what I am about to say, so please don't get offended! It's all being said with good intention.

1. That cage looks unsafe (even though it is nice in terms of sizing etc). The wire likely contains toxic levels of zinc and the gauging is extremely thin. Chicken wire is not safe for parrots. The wood will be easily chewed. Metal poisoning is a huge issue with parrots. Also, the dowel perches are not really a good idea because they can lead to bumblefoot over time. You want perches with variations in width and texture-- dragonwood, manzanita etc are good options. Don't just cut wood from a tree outside and use that-- it's unsafe unless you know the history of the chemicals used on the tree (if it's near a road, it also is unsafe due to run-off) and then you have to think about the actually type of wood (as some are poisonous). On top of that, the branches should be baked or safely disinfected (using something that will not harm your birds, but will get the job done) in order to kill insects, fungi and parasites, as well as any viral remains from other birds that could be lingering. Remember, they chew things....like perches etc.

2. Have you ever hand-fed babies?

3. Have you owned other parrots in the past?

4. Where are you located (in the world)?

5. Where did you get a wild pair?


Breeding is really really really complicated...I will post some stuff below.

Click to expand...

Hi thanks for the reply back !

Yes i have hand fed ekkys before in the past at 6 weeks old.
I live in Sydney Australia and I bought the pair of a breeder. He had multiple pairs of parrots

So what's a good choice to coat the heavy duty mesh wire. So i can make it NON toxic?

I put the nest box 3 days after i had the pair in the aviary, the Female took her only half an hour to get inside the box she looked quite happy I put half a bag of nesting material in the box (wood chips)

Thank you all for your help and comments i have read all your post and taken it to consideration..

I am going to coat the wire mesh to make it non toxic..
Fresh Vegis EVERY DAY and 20% fruit and seeds and water
I will research tress and leaves suitable for parrots
Also is it bad to ever go check up on the nesting box? Every how long not to freak out the birds
I will also customise the perches

And last sorry guys this is the 1st cage I build and I thought i done a pretty good job ..

Moetee said:

noodles123 said:

Welcome! Please stick around, as this is a great forum. I am not to shoot you down or anything, but I have a few concerns. I don't want you to run off just because I say what I am about to say, so please don't get offended! It's all being said with good intention.

1. That cage looks unsafe (even though it is nice in terms of sizing etc). The wire likely contains toxic levels of zinc and the gauging is extremely thin. Chicken wire is not safe for parrots. The wood will be easily chewed. Metal poisoning is a huge issue with parrots. Also, the dowel perches are not really a good idea because they can lead to bumblefoot over time. You want perches with variations in width and texture-- dragonwood, manzanita etc are good options. Don't just cut wood from a tree outside and use that-- it's unsafe unless you know the history of the chemicals used on the tree (if it's near a road, it also is unsafe due to run-off) and then you have to think about the actually type of wood (as some are poisonous). On top of that, the branches should be baked or safely disinfected (using something that will not harm your birds, but will get the job done) in order to kill insects, fungi and parasites, as well as any viral remains from other birds that could be lingering. Remember, they chew things....like perches etc.

2. Have you ever hand-fed babies?

3. Have you owned other parrots in the past?

4. Where are you located (in the world)?

5. Where did you get a wild pair?


Breeding is really really really complicated...I will post some stuff below.

Click to expand...

Hi thanks for the reply back !

Yes i have hand fed ekkys before in the past at 6 weeks old.
I live in Sydney Australia and I bought the pair of a breeder. He had multiple pairs of parrots

So what's a good choice to coat the heavy duty mesh wire. So i can make it NON toxic?

Click to expand...

Glad to hear you are open to changes. Aside from being toxic, the wire is far too thin-- not sure about a coating, but there is no way that is safe for a parrot. Sorry I can't help more! They climb with their mouths, and just licking wire like that is enough to cause harm. A motivated parrot could exit that enclosure in minutes.

Why was the breeder selling wild birds?

noodles123 said:

Moetee said:

noodles123 said:

Welcome! Please stick around, as this is a great forum. I am not to shoot you down or anything, but I have a few concerns. I don't want you to run off just because I say what I am about to say, so please don't get offended! It's all being said with good intention.

1. That cage looks unsafe (even though it is nice in terms of sizing etc). The wire likely contains toxic levels of zinc and the gauging is extremely thin. Chicken wire is not safe for parrots. The wood will be easily chewed. Metal poisoning is a huge issue with parrots. Also, the dowel perches are not really a good idea because they can lead to bumblefoot over time. You want perches with variations in width and texture-- dragonwood, manzanita etc are good options. Don't just cut wood from a tree outside and use that-- it's unsafe unless you know the history of the chemicals used on the tree (if it's near a road, it also is unsafe due to run-off) and then you have to think about the actually type of wood (as some are poisonous). On top of that, the branches should be baked or safely disinfected (using something that will not harm your birds, but will get the job done) in order to kill insects, fungi and parasites, as well as any viral remains from other birds that could be lingering. Remember, they chew things....like perches etc.

2. Have you ever hand-fed babies?

3. Have you owned other parrots in the past?

4. Where are you located (in the world)?

5. Where did you get a wild pair?


Breeding is really really really complicated...I will post some stuff below.

Click to expand...

Hi thanks for the reply back !

Yes i have hand fed ekkys before in the past at 6 weeks old.
I live in Sydney Australia and I bought the pair of a breeder. He had multiple pairs of parrots

So what's a good choice to coat the heavy duty mesh wire. So i can make it NON toxic?

Click to expand...

Glad to hear you are open to changes. Aside from being toxic, the wire is far too thin-- not sure about a coating, but there is no way that is safe for a parrot. Sorry I can't help more! They climb with their mouths, and just licking wire like that is enough to cause harm. A motivated parrot could exit that enclosure in minutes.

Why was the breeder selling wild birds?

Click to expand...

He wasn't selling them i had advertised on gumtree someone poped up to me saying he had a pair I went had a look at the pair and negotiated..

They seem pretty healthy eaten frequently also the female is spending most of her time in the nest box already while the male hangs outside etc and he does spend heaps of time in the nesting box with her does that show a good sign ? The fence im not that worried as the cage is Pretty big his always moving around internally but I will DEFINITELY give it a NON Toxic coat that days fast i have done my research

I try to be as active as I can with them like spray mist once a day on the male also provide treats, and i purchased ( d nutrical super calcium + vit and min. I use that once a week which I mix in there water

Would question is it safe to have 2 pairs in the same avairy ?? Or would i have to split the cage...

Hello and welcome! There is nothing that can cover the wire mesh safely! I have heard of vinegar washes, but zero experience!
As said, you really need a double door system if you are staying with that enclosure!

here is some good wiring information.
https://www.beautyofbirds.com/buildingacage.html
https://www.beautyofbirds.com/heavymetalpoisoningbirds.html


Note: if links are not allowed on forun just remove them.
Thanks
Sam

The cage LOOKS good if it weren't for parrots--- it just isn't safe-- I mean, from a construction perspective, it's 500% better than anything I could ever do, and the size is good, but it's the thinness of the wire and the materials/ potentially toxic metals etc that concern me.

You do not want 2 pairs in the same aviary. That is not a good idea. Do you have 4 bird then?
What will you do with the babies? You know they will reproduce together at sexual maturity and will need to be separated to prevent genetic issues/inbreeding disasters...

Hopefully you have familiarised yourself with this link as was recommended earlier...

http://www.parrotforums.com/breeding-raising-parrots/54987-before-i-start-breed.html

Presumably you also have a license to keep/breed a native species.....

https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/...s/native-animals-as-pets/bird-keeper-licences

You will also need to have a reputable avian vet on speed dial! It is virtually impossible to accurately diagnose (and certainly treat) serious health issues via the internet. The link below will help you find a vet near you...

https://www.parrotsociety.org.au/Avian-Veterinarians

Breeding parrots is not a guaranteed success-only venture, as many people have discovered to their enormous cost. Your stated one week's worth of research won't be sufficient particularly if anything goes wrong. I wish you every success with your venture but please do be prepared for all eventualities!

Quick question on the adding calcium and vitamins to the water. I have always been told NOT to add anything to the birds water.

So, do Ekkies differ?

Ceri said:

Quick question on the adding calcium and vitamins to the water. I have always been told NOT to add anything to the birds water.

So, do Ekkies differ?

Click to expand...

In regards to adding things to their water, no. Not different. There's no way to know how much medication/vitamin/whatever, a bird is getting from the water, so very easy to under or overdose. Generally accepted as an unwise practice.

saxguy64 said:

Ceri said:

Quick question on the adding calcium and vitamins to the water. I have always been told NOT to add anything to the birds water.

So, do Ekkies differ?

Click to expand...

In regards to adding things to their water, no. Not different. There's no way to know how much medication/vitamin/whatever, a bird is getting from the water, so very easy to under or overdose. Generally accepted as an unwise practice.

Click to expand...

That's what I thought. OP, please reconsider adding into their water!

Ceri said:

saxguy64 said:

Ceri said:

Quick question on the adding calcium and vitamins to the water. I have always been told NOT to add anything to the birds water.

So, do Ekkies differ?

Click to expand...

In regards to adding things to their water, no. Not different. There's no way to know how much medication/vitamin/whatever, a bird is getting from the water, so very easy to under or overdose. Generally accepted as an unwise practice.

Click to expand...

That's what I thought. OP, please reconsider adding into their water!

Click to expand...

It can also amplify the rate of bacterial growth (on top of the fact that it makes it impossible to know how much they are actually getting). The binders etc often contain sugar or starch (among other things).